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RDub
12-14-2005, 01:26 AM
Hello

RCBS Pro Melt 120v 800W
I've been having a problem with my ProMelt furnace where the sprue gets clogged up and won't flow a mix unless it is above about 750 degF. I have to use a torch and heat up the drop tube until metal starts flowing again. I have to do this several times a session.
Just wodering if anyone has seen this before and what the fix is.. If there is one..

Thanks.

Bullshop Junior
12-14-2005, 02:17 AM
Hello

RCBS Pro Melt 120v 800W
I've been having a problem with my ProMelt furnace where the sprue gets clogged up and won't flow a mix unless it is above about 750 degF. I have to use a torch and heat up the drop tube until metal starts flowing again. I have to do this several times a session.
Just wodering if anyone has seen this before and what the fix is.. If there is one..

Thanks.

RDub,
WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!!!!
My dad has a couple of RCBS pro melts that he has sent in and had rebuilt. Rcbs has a lifetime or forever warranty, whatever comes first! (that is what they say) You do not have to be the original owner. My dad has sent his in several times and they always fix the pots, and the other products that he sends in. One other thing that my dad does is he takes a piece of wire that will fit in the hole in the pore spout, and when ever it starts having problems he just takes the wire and cleans the spout before filling the mould. Bull Shop Mom here- we always tell RCBS that we are commercial and to charge us, they always say that they will let us know the fees, and they always send back the products fixed and with no charge, and a thank you for being a valued customer... we buy RCBS whenever possible.
Hope this helps!
DANIEL/BS JR.

AZ Pete
12-14-2005, 12:45 PM
Hello

RCBS Pro Melt 120v 800W
I've been having a problem with my ProMelt furnace where the sprue gets clogged up and won't flow a mix unless it is above about 750 degF. I have to use a torch and heat up the drop tube until metal starts flowing again. I have to do this several times a session.
Just wodering if anyone has seen this before and what the fix is.. If there is one..

Thanks.


When the outlet is cleared, try touching it with a dab of bullet lube or parafin. I understand that the lub, wicked into the outlet, will help keep it clear. I rarely have the problem since I have been careful to keep my melt fluxed and the pot at least 1/2 full.

versifier
12-14-2005, 05:48 PM
I have similar problems with my Lyman melter in cold weather (like now) in my unheated shop. Turning up the temperture a little usually cures it. A heated 10d finish nail with the bottom third bent at a right angle and held in a pair of vise grips cleans it out. :coffee:

RDub
12-14-2005, 08:30 PM
Ok, thanks..
I'll try cleaning and if that doesn't help I'll send it in..

454PB
12-20-2005, 01:51 PM
Dental picks work nicely for clearing the bottom draw nozzles I use one that is blunt and has a 60 degree bend on the end.

30yrcaster
01-01-2006, 03:33 PM
RDub,
My dad has a couple of RCBS pro melts that he has sent in and had rebuilt. Rcbs has a lifetime or forever warranty, whatever comes first! (that is what they say)

Just a note about RCBS's lifetime warranty. It's great for most of the reloading products but is terrible on their electronic scales. Mine fell apart and I sent it in and got a new one. At the time it was 2 years. I just looked at their site and it's only 1 year now.

I also noticed a small blurb that says the lifetime warranty doesn't cover electrical products. Electrical products only have a 2 year warranty. I'll have to see if I have the warranty sheet from my furnace that I bought in the 80's and see if it says lifetime warranty. From what I understand if they make an offer at the time you bought it for lifetime warranty they have to live by it for that item. I don't think they can say buy our product with a lifetime warranty then later say we're not going to honor it.

Here's from their website:
"If any of your RCBS equipment breaks or doesn't work, we'll fix it or replace it (at RCBS’ option). No time limit. RCBS does not provide a cash refund on any product. This warranty does not cover RCBS electronic powder handling products or any electrical products

RCBS Electrical Products are guaranteed not to wear out or break from normal use for two years "

Four Fingers of Death
01-13-2006, 08:45 AM
I have had a Pro Melt for about 17 years as near as I can remember and have never had any trouble with it really. It took me a while to work out that as the level or 'head' in the pot drops, you need to open the spout a tad by adjusting the screw on the handle so that you can lift it higher and consequently open the sprue hole more. A little bit at a time works well and you will get the hang of it soon enough. Try and keep it so that you have an energetic flow of metal into the mould so that it fills out properly.

remember as the 'head' of metal drops, raise the amount the lever pulls the sprue plug up and as you top up lead lower it so that you have a constant flow.

Sounds complicated, but is as simple as when you work it out.

andrew375
01-13-2006, 11:12 AM
I don't think it is a problem with the pot. The clue is that raising the temperature clears the problem. I think you have contamimnated the pot with Zinc, probably from some Zymek or similar alloy, as used in light weight wheel weights and die cast parts.

The problem is that at the temperatures you describe the Zinc is coming out of solution, that is there are dendrites and crystals of Zinc in suspension in the liquid alloy. As a consequence of the flow through the nozzle the Zinc concentrated and it precipitates out on the surface of the pot around and inside the nozzle, so you basically get a log jam formed with Zinc dendrites and crystalls as the logs. Raise the temperature and the Zinc dissolves back into solution.

I had this happen to me when I added what I thought to be a pewter model to a melt only to find it was a Zinc based alloy. In the end I emptied the pot, chucked any alloy that may have been contaminated and then scrubed the inside if the pot, reamed the spout and cleaned the valve rod and seat down with emery. This was a long time ago and haven't had any trouble since, but judging by quieries on this and other bulletin boards seems to be a regular occurance with always the same fix.