do I need a crimp groove?

[canuck4570]

if shooting in a single shot rifle and using Alliant mp300 or 2400 do I need to crimp this bullet. accurate mold 325 gr. I understand 296 and 110 is not good for not using a crimp
http://www.accuratemolds.com/img/bullets/catalogue/43-325D.png

[Winger Ed.]

Kinds of depends.

Some cartridges benefit from the crimp adding some resistance to the boolit taking off and with the groove- or a heavy crimp in it,
get better ignition and more complete combustion of the powder charge.

Some, it doesn't seem to matter.

If buying just one mold, I'd get it with the groove.
If you need it, or it works better with a crimp- the groove is there.
If ya don't need a crimp, don't use it, or taper crimp, and the brass will tend to last a bit longer before the mouth splits.

[hc18flyer]

I do crimp for my 357 Max Henry. With my 35-180 Larson, I load them long, and crimp moderately into one of the lower lube grooves. I use IMR 4227 and AA1680 powders. Maybe I should just be taking out the 'flare? I plan to follow your thread.
Thanks, hc18flyer

[Rcmaveric]

it's cool. Do not need a crimp groove to crimp a bullet. You can still crimp it of you feel the need. I don't seat my bullets to the crimp grove normally any ways.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[Peregrine]

2400 tends to like a heavier crimp in order to burn properly, although of course the degree to which that is true depends on the cartridge, weight of the boolit, ect.
Anyways, is the question "do I need a crimp groove in order to crimp a lead boolit" or "do I need to crimp with this particular powder/boolit combination"?
The answer to the former is no, the answer to the latter is no, but it might help in various ways.

I'm interested in the fact you've been a member here for quite a while and you're encountering this dilemma now. Which boolits do you load now and how do you crimp them if you do?
I have on load right now which i'm crimping right into the middle of a lube groove, just rolling the mouth over into the lube itself. Just what I ended up having to do, heh.

[canuck4570]

my first time reloading the 44 magnum
I just received a Ruger no 1 in 44 magnum. 1/20 twist
I would like not to use gas check
the accurate bullet that I like is the one pictured above it has a crimp groove
I would rather not to crimp
but still I ordered a Redding profile crimp and also a taper crimp
will be shooting between 1350 and 1450 fps

[Peregrine]

Generally speaking since you're flaring/expanding your brass in order to get the boolit in, it's very likely you may have to at the very least use just enough crimp in order to remove the flare to allow the rounds to chamber.

If you don't want to crimp beyond that or use the crimp groove you're certainly free to do so.

Keep in mind if you're configuring your seating length such that the boolit engraves on the rifling but with no crimp you may have boolits pulled out of the case and stuck in the throat if you extract a round. More of a factor with narrower diameter rifle cartidges?
I for whatever reason was also adverse to crimping my boolits when I first started but now I crimp everything to some extent.

That velocity is in the range where you may have issues not using a gas check, but i'll let those with more experience with the 44mag out of rifles to chime in.

[Walks]

I crimp the Saeco #354 180gr GC in my T/C Contender bbl - 10" over IMR4227 or Lyman #358156 158gr GC over 2400.
Just gives better accuracy.
.357 Maximum, I learned to crimp it WELL when I started loading for the Ruger when it first came out. Other then factory 158gr, just to get the brass in the beginning. I never shot anything lighter the 180gr.

Don't crimp rifle bullets for Bolt Guns.
Do crimp rifle bullets for all Lever and Semi-Auto's, and single shots.

And all other handguns. Even the Contender in .35Rem & 7mmTCU.

[canuck4570]

I have a Ruger no 1 in 4570
and never crimp my bullet just about .0002 neck tension and superb accuracy at 100 and 200 yards
and I shot non gas check bullet up to 1350 fps my hunting load with a 500 gr bullet

could you tell me since the 44 magnum run at higher pressure to get to this speed that non gas check bullet can not be pushed that fast

[mdi]

I would rather not to crimp

If you don't want to crimp beyond that or use the crimp groove you're certainly free to do so.
I believe in finding out things like this myself. If I didn't want to crimp or had a question on crimping, I would make up several rounds, half crimped, half uncrimped. Compare results and decide for yourself (I have found a few things while sounding "popular" of a forum, to not fit my guns, my reloading style, or my wanted results)...

I have a Contender in 44 Mag and I do not crimp jacketed rounds, but profile crimp my cast bullet handloads. Seems to work better as far as accuracy and consistency in my testing...

[onelight]

I believe in finding out things like this myself. If I didn't want to crimp or had a question on crimping, I would make up several rounds, half crimped, half uncrimped. Compare results and decide for yourself (I have found a few things while sounding "popular" of a forum, to not fit my guns, my reloading style, or my wanted results)...

I have a Contender in 44 Mag and I do not crimp jacketed rounds, but profile crimp my cast bullet handloads. Seems to work better as far as accuracy and consistency in my testing...
This /\ the single shot does not need a crimp to control the bullet when feeding or under recoil test in your gun and see what works.

[44magLeo]

I shoot a 44Mag Marlin 1894. I have pushed a plain based cast bullet to over 1700 fps. Bullet is the Lyman 429421. I water drop them. Lube with LLA.
I don't size them. They come out of the mold a bit over .432 and shoot fine.
I use large doses 2400 and H110.
I see no reason for gas checks with the alloys I use. COWW with a bit of tin.
I also use a good firm crimp done as an extra step.
Leo