Kroil

[shotman]

have any of you tried the kroil on your molds? I just cast about 150 of special 30cal boolit. The mold is marked 7.62--62mm spl. It is a 135gr GC with a VERY sharp point[you can stick yourself if you try to pick up a hand full. The mold looks new and I coated it with kroil wiped the wet off and started casting. No sticking any place and very light tap to clear. This mold has alot of vent lines that are deep, rick

[lastmanout]

Wow, I would not expect Kroil to give good results. I assumed it had petrolium (mineral spirits) as one of the basic components. Anything oily will cause wrinkles when I cast, so I clean molds by boiling, soap and hot water, alcohol, etc. Glad Kroil is working for you. I will give it a try sometime.:-D

[anachronism]

I've had problems in the past with penetrating oils on moulds. After the moulds sat for a length of time, a couple of months or so, I'd spray them down with brake cleaner, wipe any residue off, smoke them, & start casting. I would get really poor quality bullets for the longest time. I think the penetrating oil worked it's way down the pores of the metal & became almost impossible to remove. I finally had to boil them in detergent to get the moulds to function properly again. Now it's airtight containers & dissicant for me. Non-penetrating oils might give better results.

[S.R.Custom]

I'm surprised too. I just looked at the Kroil MSDS, and as much as 50% of it is "Petroleum Base Oil"...

https://secure.cnchost.com/kanolabs.com/msds_html/Kroil_msds.htm

[shotman]

Hey dont kock it, try it, It does work great. It is the only thing for the AL molds. I will try for good close ups rick

[Shooter6br]

Use good old Marvel Mystic oil. for cars. Much cheaper and works great

[Springfield]

Aluminum doesn't soak up the oil like steel moulds. And why do you oil them, they ARE aluminum. I just stick mine in a drawer until next session.

[osage]

Never thought about using Kroil on molds. I've used it to clean milsurp bores.

[shotman]

TRY it what are you afraid of ? Someone may have a better idea? IT works rick

[jhalcott]

Sticking one's tongue on a flag pole in January might work for some BUT I'll not be trying that either!

[Tom W.]

I spray my RCBS molds with Rem Oil after they cool. No rust, no problems...

I use Kroil as bore cleaner.

[longbow]

This discussion of "Oil moulds or not" seems to come around pretty regular.

I always oil iron moulds after use with a light oil gun oil, 3 in 1 oil, ATF or whatever and generally add a little squirt of WD40 to thin it so it spreads around.

Before casting I just wipe it off. No probelms, no rust.

I know people who don't oil and they have rusty moulds. Not saying that all iron moulds rust when not oiled as obviously some of you disagree with oiling. I would just rather wipe off oil than polish off rust.

As for aluminum, I would be lubing the sprue plate and aligning ribs with Bull Plate lube to avoid wear and galling (I don't think it was around 30 years ago when I had my last aluminum mould ~ I lubed with wax or oil then). For storage I would likely wipe it down just like the iron moulds. Why not?

I know people who don't oil their guns either because "the blueing keeps them from rusting". I always clean and oil my guns after use or even handling.

Different strokes for different folks.

Longbow

[Leadforbrains]

I use Kroil for Bore prep after cleaning. I love the stuff. I have never even thought to use it on my Molds. I just might give it a try when I get home for the Thanksgiving holidays.

[Heavy lead]

I use Hoppe's #9 mixed 50/50 with Kroil for all my bore cleaning, from hot rod 22/250's to the slowest lead handgun load, seems to work well with the Hoppe's and work for everything, as far as moulds WD 40 when I am done. I tend to cast up big batches of boolits, like 2000 or so, so I wash in super hot water in dish soap my iron mould, dry real good with a hair dryer, denatured alcohol then go to casting after it's dry. It may take me a few casting sessions to get me 2k plus (more than 500 at a sit even with a 4 or 6 cavity, my back won't take). I do not relube the mould for 4 or 5 days it takes me to cast these. Then I re oil.
I hate rust, just hate it, so I oil. In Michigan it can get pretty damp, maybe if I were in a more dry climate I would do different.

[Clark]

I have taken many dozen 1903 Turk barrels off.
They were rebarreled to 8mm in 1938, so they have 70 years of rust.
I give them 1000 foot pounds of torque [my fat but on a cheater bar] and simultaneously a smack to the action wrench with a 20 pound piece of steel.
The rust does not crack with repeated tries.
Add 5 drops of Kroil to the barrel receiver junction.
Now sitting on the cheater bar and hitting the action wrench loosens the threads with the first hit.
Everyone that gets this show goes out and buys Kroil.

I think that Kroil is just kerosene, and the threads were almost loosening anyway.

But life is too short to solve most of the multivariable questions with a controlled experiment, so I will continue the Kroil ritual.

[Bret4207]

Use good old Marvel Mystic oil. for cars. Much cheaper and works great

Poor mans Marvel Mystery Oil- ATF 50/50 with diesel or kerosene! Rich mans MMO- Singer Sewing Machine Oil, an old SECRET from back in the 30's and 40's.


I have used oil on my moulds before, also tried coating them in paraffin canning wax after casting while still hot. Both resulted in lots of cleaning before I got good boolits. If Kroil works for you Rick that's great.

[No_1]

Different locals with different humidity require different techniques to keep our moulds rust free. I live in Florida and if I do nothing or use very light oils the moulds rust. I have a lot of moulds and they get rotated through the casting possess BUT that rotation is very slow. What works for me is Pro-lube which is a general purpose lubricant and preservative then place the mould in a opened ended zip-loc bag. The zip-loc's only purpose is to keep floating debris from getting on the moulds while they are stored. The lube I use is a pain to get off but the moulds look like the day I put them up once they are clean.

Robert