Clymer Throating reamer method

[wonderwolf]

Working on a NEF SB1 30-30 rifle barrel that has no or very little throat. I can't chamber some of my cast loads in it and even some jacketed factory rounds are tight.

I have a 30 caliber throating reamer but have never needed to throat a barrel before so this is new to me.

Is the clymer one that you can use free hand maybe with a guide bushing? Reason why I ask is my lathe is a smaller short bed south bend I can't get the barrel into the headstock. I may try to rig it up with a steady rest but the barrel is long enough I may be off the end of the bed.

Any guidance, tips and pointers would be appreciated.

[Outpost75]

I have used the Clymer throater by hand using improvised guide bushings made from a cut-off cartridge case and turning the reamer with a socket-wrench handle and using plenty of Brownell's Do-Drill. Takes a forceful, but guided light touch at first to get the initial cut on the lands until the reamer gets a full cut around and turns more easily. Then back out, wipe the chips off the reamer, clean chamber, inspect the cut and then carefully continue, until your dummy round will chamber and lightly mark the bullet upon action closure, but the bullet does not telescope deeper into the case or de-bullet upon extracting a loaded round. You want something like this:

252092

[wonderwolf]

Excellent information

Did you just cut the neck off the case and drill the back of the case so the reamer could pass through? Did you measure your progress any other way?

My reamer has a round handle with a flat so I may have to machine a handle for it, May make something that has a sort of bearing so it can stay concentric ie, flat to butt up against the breach.

[Outpost75]

Excellent information

Did you just cut the neck off the case and drill the back of the case so the reamer could pass through? Did you measure your progress any other way?

My reamer has a round handle with a flat so I may have to machine a handle for it, May make something that has a sort of bearing so it can stay concentric ie, flat to butt up against the breach.

Yes, I cut neck off case and drilled out primer pocket to diameter of reamer shank.

I used a dummy round as a Go gage and just went slowly cut and try until I could chamber the round with slight resistance and extract it without telescoping or debulleting. Took very little.

[wonderwolf]

Understood, I'll see if I have a collet that can take a 30/30 case and modify a few of them for the purpose. This is why I've kept a old coffee can around with bad cases (flaws in the neck etc) I always seem to have a use for cases that are no longer good for reloading. Powder dippers, cleaning rod guides and now throating guides. Many thanks for the insight!

[akajun]

Get the ptg uni throater, it costs more but for a hand job it’s much nicer and controllable. I’ve used a machine throater by hand before with an improvised case like listed above and while it works , the ptg is the better option.

[wonderwolf]

Get the ptg uni throater, it costs more but for a hand job it’s much nicer and controllable. I’ve used a machine throater by hand before with an improvised case like listed above and while it works , the ptg is the better option.

If I'm reading right that would be a whole new reamer and such, It came up several times in my earlier attempt at finding some info on how to go about this but I didn't read into how the system works. Right now for the money it does not make sense for me to buy it. If I was doing more than these two barrels I would maybe.

[uscra112]

Like Outpost, I've done a couple of .30-30 throat reaming jobs using a modified case as a guide. One a Marlin 336, the other a Savage 219. Works just fine. Certainly does help the accuracy when using cast bullets.

n.b. After waiting six months (countless followup calls and emails) for a K-Hornet reamer from PTG, they are off my preferred vendors list.