Peanut oil mix

[bigted]

So purchased a poor abused revolver that is very rusty in spots . So I took it completely apart ... every part except removing the barrel.

Spraying it down with wd-40 ... I poured the container containing all the parts including the barreled action full of pure peanut oil thinking if soaked in the oil, it should kill the rusting advance and allow the rust to be buffed off with my small wire brush's ( yes it has deep rust and doubt any finish will survive).

Going out to check on it today, I see that the peanut oil is thick and milky slimy concoction. Not sure what happened exactly but man what a mess.

Is this a reaction to the WD-40 or something that may have been on the revolver or maybe a reaction to the rust?

I have it dripping out the mess but really am curious of what happened here.

I believe the revolver will survive and may just either naval jelly it or maybe a vinegar soak.

I will probably do a antique job on it just for giggles and enjoy it.

Any ideas?

[Outpost75]

I'm not sure why you chose peanut oil? For cooking sure, for mixing BP bullet lubricant with beeswax sure, but not to de-gunk a rusty gun, no way... I've always used ATF to free up rusted farm machinery and antique guns.

It does the job well, breaking loose frozen screws, etc. and cleans up easily with mineral spirits or acetone.

A 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone works better than liquid wrench or Kroil.

[poppy42]

Atf and maybe some Marvel mystery oil , Put peanut oil? not less you’re planning on deep frying out revolver !

[mazo kid]

Ted, one way to eliminate the oil/WD40 result would be to put a bit of each in a small bottle or dish and see what happens. Other than that, I have no idea.

[bigted]

Seems weird. Sure would like to know the secret. Never guessed WD-40 mixed with vegi oil would have such a strange reaction.

The mix (just guessin) maybe 40 to 1.

Never had the slightest bit of trouble taking it apart. Did not need to loosen any screws or parts ... just stall the process of rust and get it to soften up a bit.

Mystery continues

[Green Frog]

You forgot to put a dusting of flour on before putting it in the oil... oh wait, this isn’t the cooking channel, is it? :kidding:

Remember, if you want to penetrate rust, etc, thinner is better. Pure peanut oil might make a decent rust preventative for long term storage, but it will not penetrate previously rusted parts and crevices and I personally would consider it only a last resort. There are better oils for cooking and just about any petroleum based oil would be superior for gun applications.

Froggie

[jdfoxinc]

Lucas Tool Box Buddy both penetrates and dissolves rust. But does not remove bluing.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

What kind of revolver did you acquire?

[Texas by God]

It's obvious that your revolver has a peanut allergy.

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[bigted]

Ha ... allergy indeed!

1875 Remington repro Italian made ... "Replica Arms" stamped on the barrel top. Has a 4 digit serial number but know very little to nothing about this company so no idea when built.

Always wanted to get one of the 1875's and finally got the chance at under 175 dollars to play with one.

Should be fun for sure. Gotta figure out if I can get parts for it such as a new hand.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

One source for parts might be Dixie Gun Works.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

WD40 is really good at removing old adhesive labels.
Peanut oil is really good for cooking Turkey.
ATF is really good at penetrating rust.

The question shouldn't be, why the "peanut oil is thick and milky slimy concoction" ?

The question should be, why did you use WD40 and Peanut oil ?

[JimB..]

This has got to be a joke. Peanut oil to be followed by naval jelly or vinegar and wire brushing, come on.

Stop doing all this stuff. Order some bronze wool and use it with a light oil to scrub the rusty areas. Once you’ve removed most of it you’ll be able to evaluate the level of pitting and decide if you want to go for the full strip and refinish.

[bigted]

Interesting how many want to know WHY! I assure you it is no joke my friend.

Happens to be what I had on hand on the spur of the moment.

Here is THE QUESTION again ... does anybody know or have heard of this happening with a vegi oil/WD-40 mix.

I do not feel the need for explaining further ... just had a desire to learn something here. If you do not have any more of a clue then me ... or can educate me as to the why of vegi oil turning into thick cruddy milky solution ... then maybe we can all learn together.

I have the rust removal well in hand to discover what my next course of action should be ... just wanted to touch base with folks that may be able to help me unravel my little mystery.

[JimB..]

The peanut oil became cloudy because something in the wd40, probably the mineral oil but maybe some of the Alkanes, cause the oil to polymerize. Not sure if the peanut oil caused the mineral oil to polymerize or the other way around. If you’ve got some excess peanut oil and want to play with it maybe mix in some pure mineral oil, ie baby oil, and see what happens. If it clouds up it’s the oil, if not it’s the alkanes.

[JimB..]

Oh, an apologies if my earlier post offended. I understand having to make use of what you have at hand. In the future just soaking it with wd40 will be sufficient for at least several days, dump it in an ammo can and toss the gun parts in, close the lid and it’ll be good for months or years. Soaking in kerosene would work too.

[bigted]

Thanks for that. The reaction caught me by surprise is all and kinda weird ... never had a reaction with the WD and anything.

Naa its all good ... just seekin answers for my little mystery ... I am definitely not any kind of scientist at all and so in my little part of the universe ... when I observe an abnormality ... it causes me pause and interest in what is going on.

This project is very fun and today I uncovered under a rust patch the "Uberti" symbol on the bottom of the gripframe so that mystery is solved.

Scrubbing the bore of the barrel, I see great rifling and no permanent damage to the bore. Outside the barrel is rust damaged but I do not think it goes deep enough to compromise the integrity of the barrel.

Some spots on the frame and hammer but just surface ... nothing goes deep thank goodness.

As stated above however ... finish wise, I am going to have to go in another direction then blue. The rust spots are too deep for a nice smooth finish ... therefore my comment above about a naval jelly or vinegar finish to approach an antique style in the white style of finish.

[303Guy]

I once played a trick on someone who swiped my oil additive and replaced it with hydraulic fluid.

Aiming for revenge, I got hold of some oil that smelled right and had the right colour so I mixed it with cooking oil and got the right viscosity.

It jelled.

I strained the jel out then bottled it without breaking the seal (through a hole in the bottom which I sealed with a hot iron. After several months the seal was broken and the contents gone. Still more months later I got told that the additive of mine made his engine smoke! Hah! Caught him! :mrgreen:

Anyway, the point is that vegetable oils and mineral oils don't play well together.

[country gent]

reactions between different materials can happen easily and quickly. greases oils and chemicals can be devastating when they happen. Mixing petroleum's or synthetics with vegetable oils can cause it also. At one factory they changed greases from clay based to a wax based, company said was compatible every 1/8" grease line had to be replaced as the 2 made an hard putty that wouldn't flow thru the lines. Reactions can be baffling and sometimes dangerous.

[Fishoot]

Nuts!!! (As Gen. McAuliffe would say.)

[BigEyeBob]

WD40 is nothing but fish oil with a perfume to kill the fishy stink .I rarely use it . ATF and acetone is much better for soaking rusted parts .Even diesel fuel is good for this application .Copper or brass wool with oil for scrubbing rust off surfaces with out removing any blueing finish.Electrolysis for getting rust out of pitting ,but will remove blueing ,but wont damage parent metal .

[bigted]

Thanks all. Guess I need to watch my mineral and vegi oil mixing. Guess I never have done this before.

Education never stops.

[pietro]

1875 Remington repro Italian made ... "Replica Arms" stamped on the barrel top.

Has a 4 digit serial number, but know very little to nothing about this company, so no idea when built.




It's an import, ergo besides the importer's name, there has to be a maker's mark somewhere on the metal.

Replica Arms was one of the early US importers of BP arms - Some were made by Uberti and some by Armi San Marco.

They were based in Marietta, OH and imported guns in the 1960's & 70's, later getting bought out by Navy Arms.


.

[Chill Wills]

Hmmm. The peanut oil got my attention. I just read this.
It is the Uberty 1858 hiding under the oil and rust I want to see a picture of. Showing us how the revolver is coming along would be fun.

I read this because I was wondering what the use could be, the only place in gun work I have found a use for vegi oils was the treatment of bluing. Boiled linseed oil is used to stop the slow rust blue process and to my surprise, it does a great job. Then also it can be used in stock finish work.

[bigted]

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There she is. Had it soaking in diesel for 1 week to get into the pours of the metal. Did good and allows me to see the extent of the rust damage.

Other then ugly, I think she is a shooter. The muzzle is way the worst and may need to be shortened to 5.5 inch ... which does not break my heart anyway.

An aside here ... I had 4 quarts of the peanut oil ... used 2 to begin my rust stopping and 2 quarts unopened. The new unopened quarts are also milky now ... presumably the chill in the shop. I will bring them all inside and allow em to warm back up to see if all my fussing is explained by simple chilly weather... bout 36 to 45 degree in the shop. Wouldnt that be a hoot! Never occured that the thick milky lookin goop could be simply chilly vegi oil!

[bigted]

252986

Mystery SOLVED;

NEVER thought that any vegi oil would do this but ... low n behold ... it DID!

38 to 49 degree temps in my shop. THATS ABOVE ZERO! I had no idea that vegi oil would gel at these high temps. But guess what ... IT DO!!! That is the whole mystery ... complete!!! Just cool temps did this.

I saved the actual nut oil/WD-40 mix and today I brought the oil in the house on a hunch and put the cantainers in hot tap water in the sink. Let them soak for about 10 minutes and WALLA ... back to regular oil again.

So this pilgrim has learned another lesson ... maybe valuable ... maybe not ... but itz logged in for future reference.

[JimB..]

Hey look at that. Good to know.

[onelight]

I love it . Thanks for telling us about your adventure .[smilie=b::D:D:D

[bigted]

Hmmm. The peanut oil got my attention. I just read this.
It is the Uberty 1858 hiding under the oil and rust I want to see a picture of. Showing us how the revolver is coming along would be fun.

I read this because I was wondering what the use could be, the only place in gun work I have found a use for vegi oils was the treatment of bluing. Boiled linseed oil is used to stop the slow rust blue process and to my surprise, it does a great job. Then also it can be used in stock finish work.

Srry Chill's but did not get photo's of the poor revolver laying in the goop. Had I known then what I know now ... coulda just brought it back in the house ... warmed it all up ... and had a BUNCH easier cleanup ... BUT ... the HARD way has ALWAYS been my mode of operations. I learn best after doing the absolute hardest way in just about everything.

[mazo kid]

Ted, PM sent.

[justashooter]

peanut oil on a gun forum is usually related to heat bending butt-stocks on high end shotguns.

[largom]

Dura Coat makes a product for filling rust pits after which the gun would have to be Dura Coated with their finish product. I have salvaged many rusted rifles using
this product available from Midway USA. The Dura Coat finish is better than bluing.

Larry

[fiberoptik]

peanut oil on a gun forum is usually related to heat bending butt-stocks on high end shotguns.

??????


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[Huvius]

Looks like there is still color on the frame.
I have used oxalic acid to neutralize rust on gun parts - its sold as wood bleach at hardware stores usually.
Makes the metal a dull gray sort of like French gray. Cheap and works quickly too.

Also, as we are sourcing solutions from the kitchen, Molasses and water (10% molasses 90% water) soaked for a couple weeks makes an excellent rust remover!

[justashooter]

??????


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if you wanna bend a shotgun stock, or any other, for that matter, wrap the wood where you wanna bend it in linen and pour 400* peanut oil over it and the wood will soften and can bend, preferably in a constant pressure jig. peanut oil stays liquid at higher temp than any other natural oil that is compatible with wood application, so is better for this than anything else. after bending, let sit, clean, and regular tung oil finish.

[fiberoptik]

Thanks [emoji4]


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[edp2k]

Uberti octagon logo on the butt.