.222 rem from 223

[bensonwe]

I reformed .223 into .222 last nigh. Most went well without too many wrinkles or dents. But, my question is, what is the accuarcy loss with using the wrinkled dented ones? I understand the very bad ones need to be culled but what about the mild wrinkles dents? Just thinking out loud.

[skeettx]

Very little, the first firing should push them out.
What load will you be using?
What gun?
What is its present accuracy potential?
Mike

[Larry Gibson]

Years ago I had a very nice M788 .222 Rem. I formed quite a few cases from TW, WCC and LC 5.56 once fired cases. To minimize wrinkles and buckling I first FL sized in .223 die which de-capped them also. Then, using the RCBS FL 222 Rem die w/o the expander de-cap rod, I partially formed the cases half way, cleaned and relubed them and then completed forming them in a second operation. I used a .22 M-die to expand the neck w/o flaring the case mouth. The cases were then trimmed to length on a Forster case trimmer using a small hand drill to powder it. I had a Lee Target loader with which the formed cases were then "sized" in and the necks inside reamed. I lost maybe 3 - 5 cases per hundred with just too much wrinkle for me at the neck/shoulder junction.

Those cases turned out to be exception with accuracy being sub moa....usually in the .6 - .75" range for 5 shot groups using H335, CCI 450s and Hornady 55 gr SX bullets. It also, with its 14" twist, gave exceptional accuracy with Lyman 225415s much t the detriment of the local ground squirrel population.

[M-Tecs]

I can not address your specific case, however, I have formed a lot of 6mm XC from 22-250 brass. Early on the process for forming would process a mushroomed shoulder that would be blown out on fired forming. Accuracy of the mushroomed case was still around 1/2 MOA.

[pworley1]

I form them all the time with almost zero damaged. I run them into a .222 trim die and cut to length with a jewelers saw then size and load with the .222 dies. With some I have to thin the neck to shoot cast.

[Littlewolf]

ive formed a few thousand 222 from 223 i use a 5 stage reform proccess usung machine bushings between the die lock ring and the press, this is mostly for my ocd. after the entire batch has gone through the bushings then i re-instal the decapping assy and de-cap the batch then through a forster trimmer fixed with an outside neck turn to get rid of the over thick doughnut that used to be 223 body and is now 222 neck. then over another forster w a 3 way cutter head to do the final trim and the chamfer debur. even with all this care i still get a wrinkle, the ones that crease become 300AAC but if they are more just waves in the shoulder they just get fired out.

[wmitty]

If you refrain from putting lube on the neck/shoulder you won’t get any wrinkles. I have a number of mildly wrinkled cases and have no problems with them, although I expect them to eventually split at the fold. I use file trim die to form. Be sure to weigh sort your brass.

[floydboy]

I form them by simply running them through my 222 sizing die. Just size about 1/8 turn on the die each stroke until fully sized. As already mentioned keep lube off neck. I don't have a problem with 2-3 very slight wrinkles in a case. Trash badly wrinkled. Probably would be ok but I don't like the look of them. I have noticed accuracy problems when mixing military and commercial brass in these small cases. I like to use LC brass all made in the same year and find I end up with very tough brass that gives excellent accuracy using a 225415 boolit. I do neck turn all my cases. Have not had any trouble with donuts in these small cases.

[country gent]

Sometimes doing this conversion in 2 steps helps a lot I have had good results with it over the years with just my .222 die set. I first deburr the case mouths keeping them as true as possible. I then very lightly lube them with Imperial sizing die wax. 1 st pass is into the seater die set to push shoulder back. I then clean the cases and relube ( this removes the old lube and reapplies a fresh coating. Also lightly polishes to see any forming with flaws) 2nd pass is thru the sizer die and final forms the case and set shoulder to correct angle and length. Trim deburr and a light neck turn finishes them. Neck ream can be done instead if turning.

Things to watch are wall thickness and concentricity of the neck. If possible check close to shoulder as this is old shoulder and will be thicker. Amount of lube, you just need a very light coat to much and it will deform shoulders. Watch the headspace on the shoulders check cases in rifle often, Ideally just a slight stiffness as the bolt cams closed. I have annealed after forming and this will allow for a better fire forming and extend life.

The new neck that's formed from the shoulder will be slightly thicker and with some bullets may become an issue. A good lube makes this easier. A solid heavy press is a plus

[samari46]

You may have to inside ream the case necks if the brass is too thick. My accuracy load was 19 grains IMR 4198, rem case, Sierra 55 grain match bullet and rem 71/2 primer the copper one. Has a thicker cup to prevent primer holes when pushing things. Such as making a 223 out of a 222. Frank

[wnc435]

I have reformed thousands of 223 into 222 I always trimmed first tumbled then used my spray lube put 50 into a zip lock bag shake it up let alcohol evaporate wipe necks and FL resize then inside ream necks old LC brass was my favorite. but used what ever I had then learned about annealing necks and wow they seem to last forever. I never once had a Prairie Dog complain