35 whelen

[monge]

Need to put together a cast shooter for deer . Thinking about 35 whelen my max range would be 250yards .Been useing 45-70 but to get decent trajectory I have to push 350gr RD over 2000fps and they start to hurt at that speed. any input would be much appr.

[white eagle]

not sure when your deer season starts but ours starts in 6 days
thats hardly enough time to get a jacketed combo together
my son uses a 260 gr cast 16/1 with 2400

[skeettx]

Lyman 358009 bullet and as fast as is comfortable for you.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?79350-Lyman-358009-in-35-Whelen

Mike

[monge]

thanks for the input!

[cwlongshot]

I have been lookig HARD at a Ruger American in 358 Win
Darn fine caliber. It Can do EVERYTHING a cast bullet Whelen can.

Whelen better with heaviest jacketed. But cast only the 358 is a dandy. Probably cheaper snd surely lighter.

CW

[richhodg66]

Need to put together a cast shooter for deer . Thinking about 35 whelen my max range would be 250yards .Been useing 45-70 but to get decent trajectory I have to push 350gr RD over 2000fps and they start to hurt at that speed. any input would be much appr.

I have an old Santa Barbara commercial Mauser sitting in the rack that I bought planning to send to JES for exactly this. The more I think about it though, against deer, I don't think the Whelen would do much the .30-06 won't do. Maybe if I was to step up to elk or deer, but cast deer hunting with a .30-06 isn't a problem.

That said, it's a neat caliber and the ability to easily develop practice loads with standard .38 revolver bullets and fast pistol powders is a real advantage.

[dh2]

I got a CVA Scout in 35 Whelen off of Gun Broker for less than $300 and I am very happy with it

[cwlongshot]

https://www.gricegunshop.com/rug26979-ruger-american-carbine-358win-20-fde.html

CW

[waksupi]

A .358 Win will give you a 225 yard point blank range at around 2200 fps. with the 290 gr. bullet. Hold on the top of the back, it's still in the kill zone at 250. Whelen is actually overbore for a cast rifle.

[monge]

do you think i can shoot a 200 -250gr cast boolit out of a 30-06 to 200 to250 yards . with decent trajectory and no leading?

[cwlongshot]

A .358 Win will give you a 225 yard point blank range at around 2200 fps. with the 290 gr. bullet. Hold on the top of the back, it's still in the kill zone at 250. Whelen is actually overbore for a cast rifle.

THIS!

I love my Whelen. But facts are a smaller case is better suited.

Its one thing to use what ya have. But if buying ofor a purpose why not buy FOR that purpose?

CW

[waksupi]

do you think i can shoot a 200 -250gr cast boolit out of a 30-06 to 200 to250 yards . with decent trajectory and no leading?

Yep. Trajectory will be no problem. As far a leading goes, it sounds like you may just be starting in shooting cast. Take your time to find a load that doesn't lead. All the information you need to do that is on these pages. I have rifles with over a thousand rounds through them since the bore was cleaned last, with no trace of leading.

[bmortell]

for me with a normal 10 twist 30-06, I can shoot a 220 grain at 2,000fps using around 10 hardness when PC'd and gas checked, that's the max speed I can get with useable accuracy, anything faster gets huge even tried with paper patch, ive never tried hard lead but that defeats the purpose of a hunting load to me. I get best accuracy with 48.6 H4831 with 220gr in 2 different guns, one does good also with H4895 to same vel but the other one don't like it. but youd need to try a few powders anyway.

if you sight that in 3.5" high at 100yds that would be the highest point in your trajectory then it drops 11 at 250 so hold the highest point of back or maybe few inches over would work depending on where you wanna hit it.

youd probably lose expansion past 100yds with a normal alloy, so if it was me doing that id probably cast dual alloy, say making the first 50gr close to pure as possible, sometimes you need some tin so the seater stem don't dent it maybe 2%. I do it by melting a small amount of chosen alloy in a pan with a pour spout on the stove then pour it slowly in small drops into a water bucket, then I sort it into some 50gr piles, then I take the mold with sprue plate open drop the 50gr of pieces in, then set the mold in the pot till it melts, take it out and set it flat on the bench till it hardens, then close the plate and cast as normal. I use 50-50 WW for the rest so I can water drop/heat treat and get a hard base but un-affected nose.

some people have two pots melted and use a homemade little dipper for the nose weight but Im too lazy to do things the easy way.

doing that youd likely get atleast the nose to expand at further ranges

its a lot of work but you only need to make like 10 because they should shoot the same as if the base material was done in the whole cavity. so you can just makes ones like that to sight in then use a few of the soft points to check zero.

id consider it preferable to spending money on a new gun and starting from scratch but im poor

[richhodg66]

do you think i can shoot a 200 -250gr cast boolit out of a 30-06 to 200 to250 yards . with decent trajectory and no leading?

My big question would be, do you really shoot deer at 200-250 yards? I personally haven't killed one at much over 100 yards, and most have been much, much closer. Seems I hear guys talk long distance, but in my experience, they aren't hard to get close to.

That said, I think a .30-06, even with cast, will do what a .35 Whelen will, both in terms of trajectory and (with a little more homework) terminal performance on deer sized game.

[beltfed]

Have shot a lot of deer with my Savage 110, 358 win Douglas 14 twist.24".
Load: a Lyman 358318, 250 gr cast bullet Paper Patched seated out, with a case full of 3031,
Clocks 2350fps across my Oehler 33.
All I need and then some out to over 200yds.
Tho, in the Wi North Woods, I have never killed a deer past 100yds.
beltfed/arnie

[jwhite]

I have been lookig HARD at a Ruger American in 358 Win
Darn fine caliber. It Can do EVERYTHING a cast bullet Whelen can.

Whelen better with heaviest jacketed. But cast only the 358 is a dandy. Probably cheaper snd surely lighter.


CW
I have a couple 35 Whelens, a Remington 700 and a 7600, both great rifles but for the money it is really hard to beat the Ruger American in 358. Mine shoots great with cast bullets and seems to really like the RanchDog 230gr. For my uses it is about the perfect deer hunting rifle, accurate, light, and utilitarian; not scared about scratching or dinging it.

[monge]

The fields I hunt are large and 200yard shots are the norm.I like the idea of useing cast in my deer rifle 45-70 i was using needed to much vel to shoot that far and the recoil was getting harsh!

[gunseller]

I don't know what you are looking for for volicity to get to 250 but I have shot deer using a 500 grain cast over 62 grains of real black giving between 1250 and 1300 at muzzle. This was using a trapdoor Springfield at 600 yards.
Steve

[Wayne Smith]

for me with a normal 10 twist 30-06, I can shoot a 220 grain at 2,000fps using around 10 hardness when PC'd and gas checked, that's the max speed I can get with useable accuracy, anything faster gets huge even tried with paper patch, ive never tried hard lead but that defeats the purpose of a hunting load to me. I get best accuracy with 48.6 H4831 with 220gr in 2 different guns, one does good also with H4895 to same vel but the other one don't like it. but youd need to try a few powders anyway.

if you sight that in 3.5" high at 100yds that would be the highest point in your trajectory then it drops 11 at 250 so hold the highest point of back or maybe few inches over would work depending on where you wanna hit it.

youd probably lose expansion past 100yds with a normal alloy, so if it was me doing that id probably cast dual alloy, say making the first 50gr close to pure as possible, sometimes you need some tin so the seater stem don't dent it maybe 2%. I do it by melting a small amount of chosen alloy in a pan with a pour spout on the stove then pour it slowly in small drops into a water bucket, then I sort it into some 50gr piles, then I take the mold with sprue plate open drop the 50gr of pieces in, then set the mold in the pot till it melts, take it out and set it flat on the bench till it hardens, then close the plate and cast as normal. I use 50-50 WW for the rest so I can water drop/heat treat and get a hard base but un-affected nose.

some people have two pots melted and use a homemade little dipper for the nose weight but Im too lazy to do things the easy way.

doing that youd likely get atleast the nose to expand at further ranges

its a lot of work but you only need to make like 10 because they should shoot the same as if the base material was done in the whole cavity. so you can just makes ones like that to sight in then use a few of the soft points to check zero.

id consider it preferable to spending money on a new gun and starting from scratch but im poor

If you don't wait for your first 50gr to harden but immediately pour your harder alloy you will get a better join, essentially invisible and won't break at that junction which can happen if you add molten alloy to hardened alloy. This is the BruceB method.