LE Wilson Case Trimmer

[GreenRiverBoy]

So I'm currently using a Redding 1400 trimmer and I'm not real fond of the collet system so I have been looking around at different manual trimmers. The Wilson looks very interesting to me and was wondering what you guys that use them think about them? I bought a couple Wilson chamfer tools lately on ebay that came with the wilson small and large primer pocket reamers. I guess I'm impressed with the machining/quality of this company.

[fn1889m]

LE Wilson makes quality reloading tools. I have the case trimmer and the chamfer crank tool. The case trimmer is nice. It’s basically a hand operated lathe.

What I like about Wilson tools is that they are relatively simple, handtools rather than mechanized, that are extremely high-quality. I’m not in a hurry, and like to take my time reloading. Wilson tools are very affordable when measured over the life of the tool.

[fn1889m]

deleted double post

[abunaitoo]

I have one.
Never used it.
They are built nice.
If you don't reload many calibers, I guess it would be OK.
Would get expensive if you have to buy a shell holder for every caliber.
And they're not all that cheap.

[CamoWhamo]

I have one and it's a quality tool that is very easy to use and very consistent.

The only downside is that you need to buy a separate case holder for almost each caliber you load for. This can add up if you do a lot of different calibers.
Popping the case into and out of the case hold is a snap for rifle calibers.
The case holder for some straight walled pistol calibers is a 2 piece arrangement that takes an extra step but works well.

[Daver7]

I have one and like it. simple to use, easy to adjust over all length, wont wear out under normal use. Shell holders are expensive
I have some Lee trimmers that once fine tuned to the OAL that you want are simple to use.

[dale2242]

I have used the Wilson trimmer since I started reloading in the early 60s.
It is probably the most precision trimmer on the market.
I have a Forester as well if I am in a hurry to trim pistol cases.
It is somewhat slow but very precise.
I really like mine...dale

[dale2242]

Sorry.
Double post.

[georgerkahn]

I have, and have used Lyman, RCBS, and Redding trimmers -- *ALL* with same disdain as you have experienced with toooo much variability in trimmed length from case to case using each's collet system.
Then... I discovered the L. E. Wilson and have never even thought of looking back!!! I complement their system with a small piece of oak hardwood flooring to tap case from holder, and it is remarkably fast to trim even a several-hundred case lot in a short amount of time -- with ALL coming out pretty much the identicle length -- what it should be! I bought mine many years back from Sinclair, and one does not really need to remortgage the house to purchase a case holder for, say, a "new" caliber. The only non-love I have is for a few pistol cases, using their "Q" holders which adds a step -- a horizontal wedge to hold in case. BUT, it is so rare, and a one-time-at-most operation vis these cases -- it, too, remains a "plus" for this tool. From the photos of my set-up, one showing it in the "cubicle" in my loading station for it, and a 2nd, overhead shot, you can see I added their micrometer adjuster, and, to turn it, I use a (not-pictured) Milwaukee battery driver.
geo
251370251371

[ioon44]

I have 4 of the LE Wilson Case Trimmer's and leave them adjusted for the cases that I use most. I am more concerned with accuracy than speed.

[EDG]

I have 4 Wilson trimmers that I came by when purchasing batch of stuff from guys that were getting out or reloading. I also got a good supply of case holders for common rounds.
The Wilson tool is well built and delivers good results when it is locked down so you have both hands free to operate it. It requires you to use your left hand to hold the case holder against the lathe bed and against the stop while turning the crank with your right hand.

I also have 5 Forster case trimmers. These case trimmers have a push collet system that is superior in performance to the pull collet trimmers. The push collet stops against the interior of the collet housing so case head diameter variations do not affect the length of the cases when trimmed. Due to the stepped collets versatility, once you get a full set of collets you can trim practically any case except the very large rimmed BPCR rounds with rims larger than the .45-70. Forster does make a larger Classic trimmer for those that need to trim the very large cases up to .50 cal.

[trebor44]

I have, and have used Lyman, RCBS, and Redding trimmers -- *ALL* with same disdain as you have experienced with toooo much variability in trimmed length from case to case using each's collet system.
Then... I discovered the L. E. Wilson and have never even thought of looking back!!! I complement their system with a small piece of oak hardwood flooring to tap case from holder, and it is remarkably fast to trim even a several-hundred case lot in a short amount of time -- with ALL coming out pretty much the identicle length -- what it should be! I bought mine many years back from Sinclair, and one does not really need to remortgage the house to purchase a case holder for, say, a "new" caliber. The only non-love I have is for a few pistol cases, using their "Q" holders which adds a step -- a horizontal wedge to hold in case. BUT, it is so rare, and a one-time-at-most operation vis these cases -- it, too, remains a "plus" for this tool. From the photos of my set-up, one showing it in the "cubicle" in my loading station for it, and a 2nd, overhead shot, you can see I added their micrometer adjuster, and, to turn it, I use a (not-pictured) Milwaukee battery driver.
geo
251370251371

Pretty much what he said ^^^^ with a few exceptions. I have both the Forester and a Wilson. Pros and cons as described by the comments posted but both are very useful. I like the collets unless the case mouth is 'damaged' or is 'rough' (think trimmed by a saw). The holder cost does mount up but used ones can be found at gunshops, gun shows etc.. And they often work for multiple calibers. I mount the trimmers to a wood base for 'pounding' into or from the holder, a battery operated power source for the cutter head etc. works for volume trimming, use a 'set up' case for adjusting to the length of the case. A stand and the case holder arm are recommended but not required. I accumulated my 'accessories' over time (years) as I felt the need or desire for them. The trimmer I prefer is 'work' to be done.

[GreenRiverBoy]

Guys, much thanks for your insight. I think I'm going to retire the redding.

[GreenRiverBoy]

I have, and have used Lyman, RCBS, and Redding trimmers -- *ALL* with same disdain as you have experienced with toooo much variability in trimmed length from case to case using each's collet system.
Then... I discovered the L. E. Wilson and have never even thought of looking back!!! I complement their system with a small piece of oak hardwood flooring to tap case from holder, and it is remarkably fast to trim even a several-hundred case lot in a short amount of time -- with ALL coming out pretty much the identicle length -- what it should be! I bought mine many years back from Sinclair, and one does not really need to remortgage the house to purchase a case holder for, say, a "new" caliber. The only non-love I have is for a few pistol cases, using their "Q" holders which adds a step -- a horizontal wedge to hold in case. BUT, it is so rare, and a one-time-at-most operation vis these cases -- it, too, remains a "plus" for this tool. From the photos of my set-up, one showing it in the "cubicle" in my loading station for it, and a 2nd, overhead shot, you can see I added their micrometer adjuster, and, to turn it, I use a (not-pictured) Milwaukee battery driver.
geo
251370251371

So how is the trimmer mounted; are there threaded holes or something in the bottom of the trimmer. I've seen them mounted on vises and onto Wilson's own bracket but is it possible to just mount to a wood or aluminum riser I make myself if I wanted? Also, your micrometer looks different from the newer ones I've seen online. I like the one your using better than the stainless shorter model I've seen on their website; is it made my Wilson or someone else?

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I have used the Forster, Lee hand held, and L E Wilson trimmers. I haven't used the Forster since I got the Wilson. I found that the Forster could 'drift' while in use, along with length variation of .002 to .003. The Lee hand trimmer is very accurate, but is limited to a single length without 'simple' adjustment. The LE Wilson is very simple, very accurate, easy to adjust and maybe faster than the collet type trimmers. I find case length variation is less than .001. I also use the Wilson case holders in a mini chop saw when shortening cases like 300 Savage from 308. The Wilson case holder provides a square holder with a simple stop set on the mini chop saw. Wilson provides a wide variety of case holders, most have multi uses - 243, 260, Rem, 7mm-08, 308, 338 Federal, 358 Win use a common case holder, same for 25-06 through 35 Whelan. Case holders do come in 'fired' or new/full-length sized dimensions. Accuracy and ease of adjustment are the two reasons I use the Wilson. It can be powered with an electric drill set-up.m

[Three44s]

I share the pro Wilson comments!

My go to trimmer is the Lyman Universal. I use it with the carbide cutter. Longer life and faster cutting.

This trimmer has been relegated to cases of more extreme over length.

I acquired a used Wilson trimmer and as estate sales were encountered more Wilson trimmers and case holders began trickling into my universe. As my collection grew so did my fondness for the Wilson system.

It gained a fever pitch last summer when I began building my own mounting bases to fit what are now three trimmers. In watching videos about the Wilson I saw that the new factory bases have a round disc of plastic in their base for the user to tap cases into and out of the holder.

My wife discards her plastic cutting boards in the interest of food safety as they get “chewed up” in their course of normal use. I save them for repurposing. After seeing the videos I decided to use these boards as part of the base system for the Wilson trimmer bases I was about to build. Instead of a smallish disc to tap in and out cases upon, I have a significant plastic base (cutting board) to tap on. Free and can’t miss!

Now as to the case holders: If you load a lot of different cartridges you may well need a bunch of holders from the manufacturer. Some cartridges call for one holder for new or full length sized cases and another for fired or neck sized ones. Then you might need two holders per that cartridge if it is particularily straight sided.

However, there are families of casings that where a case holder fits several different cartridges and where the condition of the case, fired vs. new etc. makes no difference.

The best way to make an educated decision is to go directly to L.E. Wilson’s web site and compare their cartridge case hold listing against your list of cartridges.

There are many ways to trim brass. The Lee original is a good one for accuracy as far as it goes but it is limited in that cases shorter than the stock length it trims to are not uniformed. I own a Forester (I use it for outside neck turning), an RCBS, an old Hornady (dull cutter), Lee originals and the Lyman Universal. When you factor in adjustability, the Wilson has no peer as to repeatable accuracy.

Adding my home made base brought up speed and comfort to the Wilson trimmer as well.

The factory base would be just as good .... I made mine because I have a tooled up farm shop to work in and I am cheap!

Go L.E. Wilson!

Three44s

[georgerkahn]

So how is the trimmer mounted; are there threaded holes or something in the bottom of the trimmer. I've seen them mounted on vises and onto Wilson's own bracket but is it possible to just mount to a wood or aluminum riser I make myself if I wanted? Also, your micrometer looks different from the newer ones I've seen online. I like the one your using better than the stainless shorter model I've seen on their website; is it made my Wilson or someone else?

From Sinclair, International -- years before Brownell's acquired it -- they purveyed it as a simple/bare tool, and also offered several options. These included the base -- to which the trimmer is screwed; the hex adapter to use an electric screwdriver or similar; several handles with cutters to deburr cases; the springy case holder; and even a carbide trimmer blade. Whether "OCD" or sometimes (sometimes???) having more money than brains, I think I purchased one of each offered. The vertical piece of 1/2" Plexglas which stores the handle was my own addition. The Wilson trimmer I purchased does in fact have threaded holes in the bottom for mounting to the commercially made/sold base, as I have. A buddy has his mounted to a piece of 5/4 pine, with a small hole in it to hang on a nail in the wall for storage; he clamps the 5/4 in his machine vice to hold the unit while in use. Again, with no reservation... I do in fact love mine!
geo

[Three44s]

The base that the basic unit comes with is not threaded on my three units. Rather the screws run up in to the guides that hold the screw adjustment for trim length on one end and the guide for the cutter assembly on the other.

As my trimmers are built, the factory stand or my home made ones require longer screws up through the added stand threading into those end pieces and sandwiching the original base and the guide/centering rods between the top most and added components.

Best regards

Three44s

[GreenRiverBoy]

To everyone again, much thanks! I'm going to buy one. I may see what the bay is offering and keep my eyes open on the forums.

[Alstep]

Wilson all the way here! Been using them since I started loading in the late '50's. Quick, accurate & convenient. Just mount it in a small leather padded vise. Drop the cartridge in the shellholder, give it a light tap on a wooden block, trim, another tap to free the case, & on to the next one. True, you need shell holders for dis-similar calibers, but a .308 shellholder is good for the whole .308 family of cartridges.

The collet type of shellholders of other makes introduce variables due to the taper in the collet system. If the case base varies in diameter, the collet pulls in a little more or less. The more you tighten it, the further you draw in the case. Also, you have to make sure the case is bottomed out in the collet. It's a slow and aggravating process to me. I gave up on all the others long ago.

By the way, L.E. Wilson was quite the shooter in his day, and I remember reading articles about him in the Rifleman of days gone by. I believe he was still shooting into his nineties. He brought out simple, well made tools, that withstood the test of time. Solid Quality!

[1hole]

Decades ago we had case trim dies which were fast to use excellent in repeatability when the user kept his shell holders clean. Then other brands began to offer the hand cranked lathes. That's a bit sad because the trim dies were (IMHO) all that most of us would ever need; there's no way I'd part with the half dozen I still have.

My first crank trimmer was Lyman's original "Universal" with a universal shell holder that works quickly and fine. IF I was careful in my work; nothing works well if the user is sloppy. And added lure to the Universal is the add-on tools for it; I love their military crimp removal cutter, their primer pocket and flash hole uniformers, their chamfer/deburr cutters, their outside neck turner. None of it is anything a competitive Bench Rester would lust for but they all do good case work for what most of us would ever need.

I have used a few other lathe trimmers and liked Wilson's (second) best in spite of it being (IMHO) a bit clumsy and slow to use. I also liked Redding's trimmer because it spins the cases instead of the cutter and that method makes the mouths exactly square with the necks.

Lee's unique trimmer tool is an excellent trimmer and is very fast, it's a great device for anyone trimming a large batch of cases.

I don't have to impress anyone; after some 55+ years, the only case length things still in my bench storage boxes are the old Lyman, a few Lee's and the now ancient trimmer dies.

Thing is, I truly doubt that microscopic differences in case length and mouth squareness, alone, make a measurable difference in anyone's group sizes. Selecting cases for uniformity and good necks, low loaded bullet run-out and well done load development have much bigger influence on groups than case trimmers!

[alamogunr]

I've had a Wilson trimmer for several years. I have 8 shell holders for most used rifle cartridges. As Alstep pointed out, the .308 shell holder works for derivative cartridges. Same story for .30-06, .223 Rem, 6.5X55 Swede(7.62 Bel/Arg Mauser) These are the ones I have.

There are differences in shell holders that I knew at one time but now excapes me. Has to do with new vs fired cases.

[Kevin Rohrer]

Another oft-discussed topic. I use and like mine for small jobs, while the Giraud is used when the brass runs in the thousands.

[Three44s]

I have three original Wilson trimmers now. I built my own stands for all of them plus one in case I stumble into another unit some day.

My idea is to acquire some of the other cutter accessories so I can process ex military brass in a sequence.

One stays as a trimmer for case length, another with the inside mouth debur tool, a third for removing the primer crimp.

Now I swage my military primer crimps and will continue to do so with a RCBS unit on a single stage press. But there is a small sharp edge that my swagger misses unless I set the unit to the point that my primer pockets are opened up.

That edge bothers repriming, particularily in the instance of using a progressive load press.

So the exercise is going to be inserting a case into the Wilson case holder that has had it’s pocket previously swagged. A pass on the trimmer adjusted for length trim, next it is moved to mouth debur and finnaly over to final crimp removal to take care of that pesky sharp edge. Each operation on a separate Wilson trimmer body.

My plan is perform as many operations to the casings that are desirable and feasible (limited by the sort of accessories that Wilson produces) that can be accomplished with one insertion into the case holder.

I am a confirmed inside flash hole debur fanatic with all my metallic brass and also cut the depth of my primer pockets to uniform them as well. I like my gun powder burnt well and I do not like high primers. Wilson does not make tools for those operations so they will still be done “old school”.

Three44s

[alamogunr]

I forgot that I also have primer pocket reamers for the Wilson trimmer. One was given to me by a friend when I had a bunch of crimped 5.56 brass and I bought the large reamer when I fell into some military .30-06. Does get tiresome cranking that handle but overall not too bad.

[Three44s]

Get the power adapter but keep an oil can handy as the tool runs steel on steel and they warn to lube often.

Best regards

Three44s

[Char-Gar]

I have used Wilson case trimmer since 1959. It is slow, but very precise. I have no plans to change now.

[Three44s]

Actually after I perfected my home made stands the Wilson is not that much slower. With a riser base and a secure hold down you would be surprised how convenient and comfortable running them becomes.

Three44s

[1hole]

.... With a riser base and a secure hold down you would be surprised how convenient and comfortable running them becomes.

Three44s

The reason I have long had a sturdy 3" swiveling machinist vise at the left end of my loading bench is that I can mount occasional use tools to a wood block and quickly grip them firmly in place. (case trimmer, bullet/neck concentricity gage, Dremel tool, etc.)

[Three44s]

The reason I have long had a sturdy 3" swiveling machinist vise at the left end of my loading bench is that I can mount occasional use tools to a wood block and quickly grip them firmly in place. (case trimmer, bullet/neck concentricity gage, Dremel tool, etc.)

No doubt it works well. I went further by including hold downs to also secure the case holder. Each unit I built bolts down on a some what broad base, I used retired plastic food cutting boards.

One hand rests on my home made unit with no wobbling or shifting and the other running the crank. It is fast and very portable as any decent table is sufficient to work from.

Three44s

[lightman]

Another oft-discussed topic. I use and like mine for small jobs, while the Giraud is used when the brass runs in the thousands.

This is pretty much where I am at.

I've used most of the trimmers on the market and like the Wilson the best. Once you develop a technique its just as fast as the other rotary trimmers. I liked the universal case holder on the Lyman but the chuck finally began to let the case spin. The trimmers that use collets can vary the case length by how you tighten the collet. Not very much, but they can vary a little. The Wilson does not do this.

[DonH]

But you don't have to buy a caseholder for every cartridge. One caseholder fits .30-06 family, .25-06, 6.5-06, .270, .280, .338-06, .35 Whelen. Same for .308 based cartridges, and so on.
After using a Wilson trimmer for 30+ years I cannot imagine reverting to a trimmer that only grips the case head.

[Three44s]

I am a big fan of the Lyman Universal. Once I sunk the big bucks and acquired a carbide cutter for it it out ran all my other trimmers hands down, however there was always that 2 or 3 thou drift between cases and case mouths slightly uneven.

The Wilson solved that.

With my riser base and hold down for the case holder the Wilson is just about as fast as the Universal. The factory riser and hold down would yield the same result but I wanted three of them (one each trimmer body I have) so cost was a factor.

[1hole]

I found about the same variations ... until I tried withdrawing the cutter head and reinserting it to complete the trim of each case.

After I learned how to get consistent lengths from my Lyman Universal I measured and loaded a box of perfectly consistent cases. After firing and resizing them I found a few thou spread.

So, just to see what difference those length variations actually meant, I refilled them with the same load and once again fired them all at the same target; there was no detectable difference in group size. I immediately quit agonizing over minute case length (and tiny mouth squareness) variations.

If anyone has found that absolutely consistent case lengths actually affect accuracy I'd like to hear from them.

I don't average my test groups, averages only serve to make spotty accuracy look better. I want to know my dependable group size so after I find a load that looks good I'll load and shoot twenty rounds and look at the total spread, "fliers" and all; only that way can I KNOW what my reloads can be counted on to do!

[Three44s]

My inside flash hole deburing tool indexes off the case mouth so I have a second reason to want more precision. With a sharp cutter my Wilson’s keep up.

Three44s

[afish4570]

I have used Wilson case trimmer since 1959. It is slow, but very precise. I have no plans to change now.

Been using my Wilson trimmer since 1968. I speed up the process with an elec. or battery powered drill. First remove the crank handle and I screwed on a 5/8" nut where the hand crank was. Take the 3/8" drive socket holder that fits into the impact and elec. screw diver sets and insert the socket to fit the nut you screwed onto tool where the crank was.... Harbor Fr. has the 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" socket adapter kits for $3.00 with coupon. Hope I am not too wording decribing such a simple thing. Make sure you put a drop of oil in lube hole on the lathe. I put a drop motor oil to keep the wear factor down. Presently I use Mobil 1 0-20 is what I have. Experiment and adapt your proceedure so that you are comfortable. Fairly quick and accurate too. afish4570

[Three44s]

I believe it’s 7/16” x 20 TPI (NF) and a 5/8” wrench size for the jam nut. I have looked at using a threaded rod coupler nut or even a High Nut and running a short threaded rod out the back of them turned down on the “outside end” for a drill to chuck up on.

Keeping the spinning cutter shaft lubed is very important to prevent galling.

Best regards

Three44s

[GreenRiverBoy]

Again, thanks for all the input guys. Here is a pick of my new twins; both probably made many years ago but in great shape and absolutely smooth as butter.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=15ZvxPGJzsuPz6swfPhnERmGdeSSoUiAR

[Three44s]

Again, thanks for all the input guys. Here is a pick of my new twins; both probably made many years ago but in great shape and absolutely smooth as butter.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=15ZvxPGJzsuPz6swfPhnERmGdeSSoUiAR

Ahhhh,

Sweet little babies ain’t they?

Once I got the size of the thread of the screws that hold the two bushings to the frame of the trimmer (8-32 TPI) I bought a length of all thread in that size. I made risers out of angle iron or otherwise used channel iron and marked and drilled holes matching the Wilson base. With the all thread I made adjustable head screws with the addition of 8-32 nuts so I could avoid having the screw tips interfering with the cutter or the trimmer’s stop screw.

The opposite side of the riser is tack welded to a thin steel plate that gives the riser a larger foot.

All this is bolted down to a repurposed plastic food cutting board (curiously of my wife).

Next I tackled the matter of holding down the case holder.

A narrow steel strap with holes drilled to bolt it down on the back side of the trimmer and a long bolt of sufficient diameter is welded to it. I cut the head off the long bolt and grind a taper in it’s place as it is fastened with the threaded end sticking straight up past the trimmer body mounted on it’s new riser.

I make spacers and supplement with washers, add a compression spring and cut two spacers that I grind the upper edge of one and the lower edge of the other at an angle to form a vertical cam. Short rods or tubes are welded to these camming parts where these fashioned handles are sticking across the trimmer body right above where the case holder will reside when the camming bushings are at their highest points.

On the under side of the handle attached to the lower cam I added a bit of scrap steel and grind it to achieve a proper hold on the case holder.

Above the cam bushings with handles are more washers and a nut or two for holding everything together and also make the unit adjustable.

My first rendition was a little rough.

By number two I was making a somewhat better unit. I have three Wilson trimmer tools so I wound up with four riser/hold down stands before I was through.

The “rough” one is plenty operational, it just is less pretty.

The beauty of these is not in looking at them but in using them. I found that they eliminate the hand cramping I got before when I held the trimmer in my lap and had to also hold the case holder by hand. These bases also speed up the trimmer to a point where it is little different than my Lyman Universal.

I saved a fair sum over buying three bases with hold downs as well.

Three44s