Safe to shoot a Rolling Block without an extractor??

[RustyReel]

Got my new to me 12.7mm Swedish RB from Simpson's a couple of days ago. Cleaned it up a bit and was making some brass for it. About 20 min into the process the extractor broke (dang these are pricey little suckers!). I know I can shoot it with a broken extractor, it just means I have to punch out the empties with a rod. That can get messy. Is it safe to shoot without the extractor? That way I can remove the empties with a pocket knife or small screwdriver??

Planning on shooting Black Powder in this one. Going to start with something like 40-50 gr. FFg, Lee 450 PC'd and Lubed, with enough card wads between the two to remove any air space. Modified 50/70 brass. What do you guys think.

Thanks!

[John Taylor]

Should work fine without the extractor. Be careful with a knife or screw driver so you don't damage the chamber.

[Yellowhouse]

Use a cleaning rod to knock out the empty.

[Texas by God]

I would suggest fashioning a hook from brazing rod with a finger loop on the other end for a scratch free extraction tool.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[TNsailorman]

A wooden dowel/ramrod would be my solution if I did not want to possibly scratch up the breech of the rifle with a knife or screwdriver or other metal object. I have used wooden rods before to punch out wads from shotgun barrels and I see no reason why one would not work for cases. james

[oldred]

I second the brazing rod suggestion, plenty strong/stiff enough to get the job done and soft enough so there is no danger of scratching the chamber. No matter how careful you try to be it would be likely that either a knife blade or screwdriver would end up causing damage before long.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

No safety issue, just a nuisance.

[RustyReel]

Thanks guys. I thought it would be OK safety wise but wanted a few second opinions.

I messed around trying to remove empty cases and I think a range rod of sorts (gonna use a fiberglass ML rod) is the only realistic solution. May end up borrowing the extractor from 12.7 Rifle #1 for a couple of range trips.

An interesting side note. The brass I made for 12.7 Rifle #1 would not fit in this rifle. The three pieces I made before the extractor let go required reducing the case diameter in front of the rim, along with reducing the rim diameter. I had already cut the cases to 1.72". After the extractor failure all the cases slipped in up to the rim and only required a slight reduction in rim diameter. All the cases from Rifle #1 now fit and even the untrimmed 50/70 brass slips in up to the rim.

Before you ask, no I didn't do a chamber cast. My experience with less than smooth chambers has been frustrating to say the least. Mostly end up having to melt the cerosafe out anyway.

Again, thanks for the help guys.

[MOA]

RustyReel, you may find 50 Alaskan brass trimmed to 42mm the easier way to go. Just trim, size with 50/70 dies prime, powder, wad, boolit, and fire.
Here are some images of my endeavors with my 12.7 Swede.


Trimming 50 Alaskan to 42mm with a dremel tool set up in the rotary workstation with a thin cutting wheel.
https://i.postimg.cc/8CzVJJB5/20180329-171844.jpg (https://postimg.cc/yDtG2NG4)

Final trim in the forster to 42mm or so.
https://i.postimg.cc/d0GJrC2n/Photo0680.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Loading some pan lubed boolits sized to .501. Lymans 395 grain plains boolit mould,
https://i.postimg.cc/m2rpDCbx/20180421-145318.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Z01xs9Bj)

Loading using a beeswax and cardboard wad under the pan lubed boolit.
https://i.postimg.cc/3JbSDNRk/20180421-145349.jpg (https://postimg.cc/TpgqzRnx)

Using a waxed juice box wad over BP.
https://i.postimg.cc/1tbZ2C13/20190922_113236.jpg (https://postimg.cc/cg7j8cJp)

Loading my pointed pounder over BP using a 50-50 crisco and olive oil lube.
https://i.postimg.cc/8kL3TPhH/20190922-113454.jpg (https://postimg.cc/nMcTkxSj)

Complete cartridges.
https://i.postimg.cc/7hqNHDks/20190922-114906.jpg (https://postimg.cc/ftgdCGkm)

[marlinman93]

If cases started fitting the chamber after the extractor failed, I'd guess the extractor wasn't properly fitted and was binding the cases? I'd also guess your gun uses a sliding extractor, and not the rotary? If so the sliding are easier to find and much less expensive.
If it's a rotary I'd take it to a good welder and have him tig it back together, or build it up with tig weld and shape it back to fit the rim.

[MOA]

Thanks guys. I thought it would be OK safety wise but wanted a few second opinions.

I messed around trying to remove empty cases and I think a range rod of sorts (gonna use a fiberglass ML rod) is the only realistic solution. May end up borrowing the extractor from 12.7 Rifle #1 for a couple of range trips.

An interesting side note. The brass I made for 12.7 Rifle #1 would not fit in this rifle. The three pieces I made before the extractor let go required reducing the case diameter in front of the rim, along with reducing the rim diameter. I had already cut the cases to 1.72". After the extractor failure all the cases slipped in up to the rim and only required a slight reduction in rim diameter. All the cases from Rifle #1 now fit and even the untrimmed 50/70 brass slips in up to the rim.

Before you ask, no I didn't do a chamber cast. My experience with less than smooth chambers has been frustrating to say the least. Mostly end up having to melt the cerosafe out anyway.

Again, thanks for the help guys.


Ha, ha. Know just what you mean about a less than smooth chamber and cerosafe. Been there done that.
https://i.postimg.cc/MHj8N7jV/Photo0537.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[JMtoolman]

A quick note, don't use a fiberglass rod. I ruined a barrel in short order once in a days shooting. The toolman.

[Fishoot]

I have used bicycle spokes bent with needle nose on one end and ground on one side to a knife edge as my backup extractor. I keep several at my work bench and in the range bag. Bicycle spokes can be fashioned into case separation sensing tools and a myriad of other uses.

[RustyReel]

Well I survived shooting the rifle without the extractor and my first attempt at black powder cartridge loading. Took a range rod with me but cases were removed easily with the tip of my pocket knife. Only fired five rounds.

Rifle shot surprising well, 2-1/2" five shot group at 50 yards. Here is a pic of the muzzle upon receipt from the seller (I had pushed a couple of patches thru it to clear out any loose junk). This is the "good" end of the barrel that the seller rated as Very Good +.

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[MOA]

Rusty.
For an extractor, you might have a look at Numrich gun parts. Look under Remington No. 1, and 1-1/2 rolling block parts. I just saw some straight extractor's on the site 15 minutes ago. A good smith should be able to fix you right up.

Might even be able to fix that muzzle up some for you too. I was pretty lucky with the two I got. A Remington, and a Husquvarna.

https://i.postimg.cc/V6KQgYcv/Photo0482.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[barrabruce]

I use a copper/brass pipe filled with lead about 7" long and 1/4" od for my 30 cal rifles if I need to knock out a stuck case.
Just tip up .release it down the barrel.
Seems not to hurt anything and easily carried.
Hope it helps.

[Wolfer]

I bored and lined one of my 12.7x44s to 40-65. The extractor didn’t work as well as I would like so made a new one. Not all that difficult.

[Dutchman]

The question is: Is the cartridge case fully supported if the extractor is removed?

Yes, it looks like the cartridge would be fully supported with the extractor removed.

However...... get an extractor in that rifle!!

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