Reloading Die update needed?

[avogunner]

I've been reloading since 1981 when I bought a Pacific reloading kit (press, measure, beam scale, etc) as a young Marine LCpl. When I bought the kit I picked up some Pacific Durachrome dies for the calibers I loaded then (still load for); .30-06, .35 Rem, .30-30, .45 ACP, and .38/357 (by the way, they were $11 brand spanking new then). I've picked up some additional dies over the years from other manufacturers when I've added calibers to load for but I've never bought a duplicate caliber of what I have already.
So...my question is, what are your thoughts on updating 30+ year old dies? This applies to all calibers but I'm specifically thinking of my .30-06 right this second - I've loaded thousands of rounds with those dies for my Garand's, 03's, and Win 1895, and they seem to keep producing fine ammo but would I see any benefit a newer set? Has there been any significant design/product improvement in rifle die performance that I could benefit from?
Thanks for your thoughts....
Semper Fi.

[pworley1]

Unless the dies you have are not producing quality ammo, there is no need to update your dies. If you want new dies, there is nothing wrong with getting them.

[smithnframe]

I'm still using dies from the 30's in my Lyman tru-line junior!

[Bent Ramrod]

Almost all the dies I’ve ever bought are used.

Among the few “upgrades” I’ve bought (also used) are carbide dies for straight walled pistol cases, to avoid the lubing step. I’ve gotten lazy in my old age. Also, if I have a chance to get Redding dies used&cheap, or RCBS same, I might pick them up to replace older dies of more obscure lineage. This doesn’t always improve the quality of the reloaded ammo, but if not, I’m only out a double sawski or so.

Unless you seriously scratch or score the inside of a die, or load commercially and physically wear them out, Pacific Durachromes are good dies that should last a lifetime.

[mdi]

Reloading dies aren't a "high wear tool", meaning they normally won't wear out to the extent of not producing good, safe ammo. From a practical standpoint, you probably don't "need" new dies, but there's nuttin' wrong with treating yourself to new toys...

[ReloaderFred]

Most reloading dies and presses will outlast the users. I have worn out a couple of presses, but that was after hundreds of thousands of rounds loaded. (I've been at this since 1963, and currently load 33 calibers) If there's nothing wrong with your current dies, then continue to use them.

With that said, I have multiple die sets in a lot of my calibers, since I like something one die will do better than another, so I "mix and match". I'm not particularly brand loyal, though I do have certain preferences in certain areas.

The bottom line is if the current dies are still working, load away with them and enjoy the finished product.

Hope this helps.

Fred

Semper Fi back at you (1965-1971)

[gpidaho]

I have some 310 dies that I have no idea just how old they are that work just fine. Gp

[lefty o]

maybe update to carbide dies for the straight wall pistol cartridges, but otherwise unless the dies are no longer in decent condition, no reason to replace them.

[gpidaho]

maybe update to carbide dies for the straight wall pistol cartridges, but otherwise unless the dies are no longer in decent condition, no reason to replace them. Although I use carbide dies for pistol cartridges for there convenience Steel dies do a better if slower job by allowing the slight taper of many cases as to Sammi specs. Gp

[Wayne Smith]

WOW, I hope not! I bought most of my dies off eBay and many are at least as old as yours are!

[skeettx]

Unless the dies are scratching the cases, stay the course :)

[Mike Kerr]

I must join the chorus. No need to update if they still work adequately. Die manufacturer's would love your spirit but it is really not necesary to spend the money for NEED. Now WANT is a separate topic.

[bosterr]

I always look for used dies first to try to find a deal and then buy new if no used are available.

[country gent]

I did wear out a 308 die but the m1as were on their 3rd and 4th barrels when I replaced it. It wasn't scratching cases ( actually was giving a nice burnished finish) but just wouldnt size the bodies down enough to chamber 100% anymore. Unless your having chambering issues, scratches or problems holding headspace bump there is no need to replace those fine old dies.
Keep them clean and lubed they will last forever.

[15meter]

Loaded some 30-06 last night on RCBS dies made in 1966, still working well.

[Winger Ed.]

I did pretty much the same thing when I got out in 1980, and am happy with the old stuff,
except for getting carbide sizer dies for the straight wall hand gun cals.
I really like them and won't go back to the old school ones.

[mdi]

Lots of good posts above, but just a thought on my experience. I bought 2 die sets from ebay vendors. One set was so-so with rounded off hex sockets on the set screws and slightly rough body threads, like user tightened down the lock ring with vice grips, way too tight. The last set, RCBS 3 die 44 Magnum set. The body threads were distorted. They looked like a gorilla used vice grips with a 36" extension and leaned on it. Lock rings were ruined, ID thread was distorted/ruined. All the set screws had to be drilled and an easy out used because hex socket wasn't hex, but round. General appearence was indicating abuse by ignorant previous owner. Being a machinist/mechanic I was able to make them usable again, mainly because I didn't want to hassle with the vendor (who knew nothing about what he was selling) waiting to send dies back, wait for a refund I fixed them I chased all threads, installed new Forster rings, fixed internal threads on sizing die, and they became usable again. I haven't purchased any used dies since, unless I have them in my hand before buying...

[Walter Laich]

I may buy a back-up set if it is one of my high use calibers . . . IF the price is right.

I have been known to put something on the table, come back in 5 minutes and it's gone. 73 years old--I need to do this more and more :p

[Three44s]

Pacific durachrome dies are more of a lifetime die than your ordinary steel dies which are in fact also lifetime dies.

That said, I do buy carbide dies for convenience and safety from neglecting to lube a casing when they are available.

I also have bought other dies or sets to accomplish a desired outcome with a few cartridges. Varmint rounds are a good example. The Lee Collet neck sizing die is one of those situations.

I have not tried the RCBS X die but that could be another one to consider for some.

Though I am really smitten with RCBS in general, I have grown quite fond of the Hornady New Dimension seater die. I like the smaller bullet seating run outs I get with them.

As I morph into other dies of the same caliber, I have been reluctant to let go of the dies these newer additions have replaced. It is a bit costly but I tend to keep the dies that are now set aside. Sometimes you encounter an unusual situation where the “other die” bails you out.

Three44s

[rbt5050]

I been loading for 50 plus years and i am always up dating reloading tools.

[Pressman]

I been loading for 50 plus years and i am always up dating reloading tools.

In the world of photography, we call this GAS. Gear Acquisition Syndrome.

Ken

[lightman]

Unless the dies you have are not producing quality ammo, there is no need to update your dies. If you want new dies, there is nothing wrong with getting them.

This is pretty much my thoughts too. A couple of things to think about would be replacement parts or special needs. Like a broken or bent decapping rod. I replaced a few RCBS die sets with newer versions after I started loading on a progressive press. The older dies had less radius on the mouth of the die causing difficulty with multiple cases entering multiple dies at the same time.

If they are still working for you I would keep using them.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

Still using Herter's dies in 35 Rem and 32 Special, 1964?. If you you just WANT new dies, get Redding for the quality, maybe their Competition Shellholders for more precise sizing (extends case life).

[ukrifleman]

IMHO, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

ukrifleman.

[15meter]

Loaded some 30-06 last night on RCBS dies made in 1966, still working well.

These are dies I bought from a dead guy's son several weeks ago, the dies work fine. I did find that the shellholder from the same period are different from current production.

The old shellholder through hole is much larger--when using them to prime either on the Rockchucker with the priming arm or with the RCBS Bench prime the primer was not centralized every time to make nice clean seating of the primers. Got out a newer shellholder and it had a smaller hole--better, more consistent centering of the primer prior to seating.

Never knew until I got this last batch of reloading equipment that there were 2 different through hole diameters. Started measuring some of the other shellholders that came with this batch of reloading tools and most of them are oversized in comparison to ones bought in the last 20 years.

I wonder when the change took place?

[15meter]

And after using them, I think there are advantages to the old design, I have heard rumor of people(not me!) forgetting to lube cases before sizing and ripping off the rim when pulling them back out of the die.

With this style, it's a simple matter of sticking a punch through the hole and playing whack-a-mole.

May sell the newer dies and keep these, 4 sets of 30 carbine dies are silly.

Glad I didn't just sell them without trying them. Learn something new, today was old stuff may be better.

[Rich/WIS]

Have upgraded sets with carbide sizers and added taper crimp dies for handguns. Will pick up a second set if it has different dies, think neck versus FL sizers, if the price is right. Big addition was buying the old Lyman Precision dies with the sliding seaters and M dies for use on cast bullets. Did change to Hornady 06 dies as I like the eliptical expander and also on their universal neck sizer dies where needed. I have multiple sets for some calibers as some are used for cast bullets and others for jacketed. I leave them set for the loads I shoot and don't need to fiddle with adjustments.

[Pressman]

These are dies I bought from a dead guy's son several weeks ago, the dies work fine. I did find that the shellholder from the same period are different from current production.

The old shellholder through hole is much larger--when using them to prime either on the Rockchucker with the priming arm or with the RCBS Bench prime the primer was not centralized every time to make nice clean seating of the primers. Got out a newer shellholder and it had a smaller hole--better, more consistent centering of the primer prior to seating.

Never knew until I got this last batch of reloading equipment that there were 2 different through hole diameters. Started measuring some of the other shellholders that came with this batch of reloading tools and most of them are oversized in comparison to ones bought in the last 20 years.

I wonder when the change took place?

15 Meter, I ran into the same issue last week when I picked up an unmarked bench primer of a type I had not seen before. Shellholder holes were too large to center the punch, or too small and the punch would not pass through. I finally located an old Pacific that fit exactly right. There is no way to really date shellholders from most companies that I know of.
Ken

[15meter]

15 Meter, I ran into the same issue last week when I picked up an unmarked bench primer of a type I had not seen before. Shellholder holes were too large to center the punch, or too small and the punch would not pass through. I finally located an old Pacific that fit exactly right. There is no way to really date shellholders from most companies that I know of.
Ken

These are RCBS shellholders, I suspect most from the 60's when this guy started loading. I've got what I've learned is a priming arm from a Herter's #3 press, I'll try that and see if the priming punch from that vintage Herter's is larger and fits better.