Husqvarna M 33 roller mounting a tang sight

[mdevlin53]

I have a M33 rolling block and the installed sights are pretty poor. so I was able to buy from a member here a Lyman peep that matches the finish and is the correct height. Now to mount it.
The tang screw is long enough but the screw head profile is all wrong. My question is does anyone have an idea what the thread size and pitch is so i can try and make a more appropriate screw.
I will have to D&T a screw for the forward mounting hole but again i will have to find a good looking old screw or make one for there as well.
250164

[koger]

Sounds like you have it figured out. I sure would like to see some more pics of your roller. I have a 1867 Husky that really like.

[marlinman93]

Not sure of the tang screw size and thread, but I'd simply remove it and take it to a good hardware store and try metric nuts on it until I found one that fits. Then either buy a screw and modify it to work, or make a new one.
For the front you can simply buy those screws in regular Lyman style from many gunsmithing sources, or even a Tue Value hardware store. They carry a number of gunsmith blued screws, so choose one that fits the recess and D&T your front hole to match.

It appears you got a Winchester base sight, which will create a small issue on the type 33 top tang. The type 33 has a curved top tang so that base wont sit flat. You may want to do a minor bend in the base to contour it to the tang.

[marlinman93]

I found a couple old pictures from back when I installed my tang sight on my Type 33A Husky.

https://i.imgur.com/okhRitVl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wXIIBsel.jpg

[mdevlin53]

I did make a trip to the hardware store
4mm is to small and 5mm is to big.
The existing screw fits into a 10-32 nut but is loose, a 10-32 screw will cross thread in the hole on the bottom of the tang(tried it with a brass screw so as to not damage the threads)
I am thinking of re-tapping the bolt hole to 10-32 and buying a set of screws that are close to the right length from Buffalo Arms (they are the only site i found that gives the screw size and TPI)
As for the sight it sits pretty well on the Tang and i think it will work well once mounted.
And I am jealous, you were able to find a full stock version. What caliber is it? Mine is 9.3x57r.

[marlinman93]

If you used a different sight with a shorter hole spacing like Stevens 1.5" or Marlin 1.125" then you could D&T two holes, and leave the tang screw alone. The Winchester sight spaced sight you have could be easily traded or sold to get either of the other two sight spacings. Just a thought.

[Yellowhouse]

There was a thread on this, I think in the ASSRA forums about a year ago but couldn't locate it. But one fella mentioned that thread style as being defunct. Maybe this will help: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Association_screw_threads

[marlinman93]

There was a thread on this, I think in the ASSRA forums about a year ago but couldn't locate it. But one fella mentioned that thread style as being defunct. Maybe this will help: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Association_screw_threads

I believe there was more than one metric thread and the old one is the British metric system, vs. today's standard metric system. I own a 1937 British Austin car, and it drives me nuts trying to find particular bolts or nuts at times. I've run taps through old holes to change a bunch to American standard where they're close. I think the Husky 33 could be a case where if I found a close sized American tap to the tang screw I'd simply chase it and change it to an American thread for convenience.

[Chill Wills]

If you used a different sight with a shorter hole spacing like Stevens 1.5" or Marlin 1.125" then you could D&T two holes, and leave the tang screw alone. The Winchester sight spaced sight you have could be easily traded or sold to get either of the other two sight spacings. Just a thought.

I like your idea of a shorter base sight.
In this case, using available resources, bobbing the rear tang part of the existing sight base and making a new hole in the sight base would do the same. Then as you say, drill and tap two new holes to what ever (10-32) standard makes sense. I don't know the level of ability the OP has to do that or not. With a basic shop I can do it but not everyone can. Then it becomes a job for a real gunsmith. Not a part changer.

[bigted]

That is a SWEET lookin roller. Would like some more info on it.

Chamber
Loads
Boolits used
Accuracy

You know ... the usual stuff.

Thanks for sharing her here.

[marlinman93]

That is a SWEET lookin roller. Would like some more info on it.

Chamber
Loads
Boolits used
Accuracy

You know ... the usual stuff.

Thanks for sharing her here.

My Type 33A Husky is an oddball caliber, but that's a good thing. They were usually in 9.3x57R which is around a .366" or so groove. But mine is a larger 9.5x57R and it has a .376" groove, and accepts shortened .38-55 brass perfectly! And I reload it using my .38-55 dies too. My loads are the same loads I use for my Ballard rifles in .38-55 and the Husky seems to like a .377" sized bullet in 255 grs. with 11 grs. of Unique. It will shoot those out to 500 yds. with consistent hits on the dinger. I've also shot it at 650 yds., but less consistent with the 255 gr. bullet. Haven't played with a heavier 310 gr. Ideal Doc Hudson mold I have as that mold is a breech seater bullet and base band is .383" so not sure it would size down well and work.
At 100 yds. the Unique and 255 gr. combo will shoot 1.25" groups.

[mdevlin53]

I too have a 9.3x57r but mine has a .365 bore. I bough a 37-193 B (drops at .366)mold that was designed for the 9.3x72r but it works well in may 33.
I have tried a 14g load of Trailboss (using the 70% the amount full to the bullet base) and 21 grains of 4198. I found some 38-55 basic brass that are just ever so slightly short and only needed a smal trim on the base to chamber. I had to modify (by shortening them) a set of 9.3x72r dies to load the cartridges.
I took the rifle to the range and was able to keep all the shots on a target at 50 yards but as i said before the sights are really poor for an old guy with glasses. I have mounted the tang sight above and am in the process of fitting a home made globe sight. the dovetail for the front sight is .270 so a standard globe would not fit and even if it did it looked odd on the slim barrel. I just hope i am able to finish it before the weather foul to shoot it(it is getting cold and snowy up here in Maine)
While these are not common they do show up from time to time at Simpsons LTD and i got mine from Allen's Armory. I had been looking for a number of years before i was able to get one. Still looking for the elusive full stock version as Bigted sait they are SWEET

[john.k]

I believe the metric system Marlinman is taliking about is BA...British Association.......indeed a metric thread,but a very complicated one,designed to provide a series of threads down to a few thou diameter....The thread starts at 0BA,which is 6mmx1mm,then reduces as a power of the previous larger size...This makes a lot of sense ,as the thread is always correctly proportioned for maximum strength and usefulness.A very common size is 2BA,used in lots of places ,generally as a screw .

[bigted]

So what holds the hammer and breech block pins in? I must have been under a mushroom as I do not think I have ever seen a roller like these type 33's. Very modular looking and I bet nice n trim ... looks well balanced as well.

[marlinman93]

So what holds the hammer and breech block pins in? I must have been under a mushroom as I do not think I have ever seen a roller like these type 33's. Very modular looking and I bet nice n trim ... looks well balanced as well.

If I recall correctly there are screws that lock the hammer and breech block pins into the frame and they are accessed inside after removing the trigger plate.
The Type 33 and 33A (pistol gripped) came in both full stock, or half stock, and in straight grip and pistol grip versions. Mine is the full stock, pistol grip version.
The frames are beautiful and nicely rounded to make them lightweight, yet still strong. The tangs have rounded surfaces, and pointed tips. Husqvarna built these as strictly Sporting Rifles, and not a reworked military variant.
I went into mine unwillingly. I have always been a Remington Rolling Block fan, and didn't mind using imported military actions to build up a project gun. But a friend wanted me to buy this gun, and although I thought it was beautiful I knew nothing about it. He told me he used .38-55 cases to load for it, but nothing else. Since I didn't want it, he asked if I would loan him the money he needed for another gun, and hold this gun as collateral. I was still hesitant, but agreed. After it sat in my safe for 6 months I asked when he was going to return my loan, and he told me to go ahead and shoot the Husky until he paid me back. I began to play with it, and quickly fell in love with it. Another 6 months passed, and I asked if he wanted his gun back, or if I should just keep it instead of paying me back? He told me if I wanted the gun we'd call it even, so I kept it.
I've seen them sell for less than the loan I gave him, but I've never seen one in nicer condition than the one I got. It has great case colors, and nice barrel bluing. Plus it's got the metal wiping rod under the barrel that's always missing on these. I'm glad I was "forced" to take it.