The idiots guide to reloading

[mpescatori]

Hello all, Maurizio from Rome, Italy.

I currently shoot 12 and 16 ga., .38 and .44 Mag (ouch…)
I would like to reload, in order to have softer loads and to experiment with subsonic ammo.
I would also like to reload 30-06 and .308 for rifles. (I have an M1 garand and would like to find a good bolt action)

Question #1: considering that any and all reload equipment is US made anyway, what would you recommend for an absolute newbie?
I need something akin to"Reloading for Idiots", something I can operate in 1.2.3.4.5 step drills
(By the way, IS there a book "Reloading for idiots"?)

Question #2: who can advise me on which cartridges can be shot (with an adapter) in .30 cal rifles?
For certain, .30 Luger (but these days they're more expensive than .308s) and .30 WC; .32acp is really a peewee cartridge.
And in CF.22s like a .222 or .223? For certain, .22LR, but what else?

Thank you

Maurizio

[Froogal]

A LEE single stage press delivers the best bang for the buck. I chose it for the price and have not been disappointed in the quality or functionality.

[Kraschenbirn]

Not actually a "reloading for idiots" but try "reloading for dummies" on Amazon and you'll get several pages of reloading guides/manuals. Over the 60+ years since I was introduced to reloading by a Boy Scout shooting coach, I've accumulated a long, long bookshelf of reloading guides and manuals and can't recall any that really stand out above the rest. Looking at the Amazon list, I see the 'Shooter's Bible Guide to Reloading' is still around (my well-thumbed copy is dated 1972) and "ABCs of Reloading" is on it's 9th edition; either would provide adequate information on the equipment and mechanics of the process but neither include actual load data so you'll also need a reloading manual published by one of the equipment manufacturers.

Bill

[cwlongshot]

Look for the ABC’s of reloading and also buy a lyman manusl current version

Both are resource information. BOTH because altho Lyman makes equiptment they do not make powder or bullets so there data is universal with most makers products used.

Then READ THEM!

Another tip is see if you can find a mentor.

Good luck and chow

CW

[ReloaderFred]

Maurizio,

If you can find a copy of the Lyman Reloading Handbook, either the 49th or 50th Edition, that will give you the basic information you're seeking. Even earlier editions have the information you seek, but I wouldn't go further back than the 48th edition for now. Of course, they will promote the use of Lyman products, but any of the well known established reloading companies make quality products, and the best thing is they're all compatible, for the most part. The Lyman manual also contains a lot of reloading data in most, or all, of the common calibers. You can load your ammunition for whatever your needs are.

For instance, you can load .44 Special level loads for your .44 Magnum, and it will be much more pleasurable to shoot, and paper targets don't know the difference. The same for your .38 Special, you can load them light, or heavy, depending on your needs.

As for loading for the Garand, you'll have to maintain a certain power level to function the gas powered functioning, unless you don't mind manually cycling the action.

I see by your profile that you attained the rank of Colonel, so you're certainly no "idiot". Approach this like any other project and don't over think it. Get a manual and read it thoroughly before you buy any equipment, since I know the EU has some pretty steep tariffs on imported reloading equipment. You'll want to make your hard earned money go as far as possible by making well thought out, and knowledgeable purchases. Just feel secure in knowing that any reloading equipment you buy will outlast you, with proper care.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[Shawlerbrook]

The Lee manual and any single stage press would be my recommendation.

[poppy42]

As you’re just getting started I would recommend one of the Lee reloading kits. You can get one of their kids that includes a scallop pressed powder dispenser and a few other items for right around 200 bucks. And for a basic manual, modern reloading second edition by Richard Lee. The lineman manual is great I do highly recommend them . If it anytime you plan on casting your own bullets I recommend a lineman cast bullet handbooks . But for a generic reloading manual that gives you basics safe load data along with step-by-step procedures on how to go about reloading I don’t think you can go wrong with the Lee manual. And like others have said read the manual don’t just go to the load data read the procedures

[metricmonkeywrench]

I would also recommend finding a copy of the RCBS Precisioneered Handloading DVD to get a visual on how its done A-zz for rifle pistol and shotgun

They are available from the usual sources or someone may have a "library copy" the will loan out. Like Lyman its also a sales pitch for their products.

[RogerDat]

A single stage Lee "O" press runs around $125 USD so about 112 euros. These can reload just about any cartridge.
https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-precision-reloading-equipment/lee-presses/lee-classic-cast-press

For a slightly more productive press for the same cost one might want to look into the Lee Classic Cast Turret Press. https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-turret-press/lee-classic-cast-turret-press You give up a little bit of power in the leverage and there might be really tall cartridges that won't fit. Like .50 BMG

The turret press holds the dies in these disks https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-precision-reloading-equipment/lee-presses/lee-turret-press/lee-extra-4-hole-turret

One screws the reloading dies into the disks. The dies are able to remain adjusted and can be quickly swapped in the turret press. The turret press has a rod that rotates the disk to the "next" die with each pull of the handle, makes reloading a bit faster. The rod can be easily removed and then one can do one operation repeatedly. Such as removing primer from used brass with a decapping die before cleaning.

This value kit provides the basics for $134 USD (120 euros) https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-precision-reloading-equipment/lee-reloading-kits/lee-value-turret-press-kit I think the press is a little lighter weight than the regular classic cast but doubt you would notice it.

This kit comes with even more stuff including a manual and the heavier press at $192 USD or 173 euros
https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-precision-reloading-equipment/lee-reloading-kits/lee-classic-cast-turret-press-kit

You will also want a caliper to measure overall length and diameters accurately.

You will also need to budget some funds for reloading dies in each caliber which can be had for around $40 (36 euros) I personally would start with the .38 and .44 magnum. Both are easy to reload, with a lot of load data available. One can shoot a lot of .38 in a day at the range and .44 mag is an expensive cartridge to purchase so these two offer good savings opportunities with an ease of successful reloading.

https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-precision-reloading-equipment/lee-pistol-reloading-dies
Since I expect shipping will be a big cost factor you might want to get a manual first. Provide you with a chance to gain some understanding and come back with more questions before you place your order.

Those links are to Titan Reloading they are a site sponsor whom I have purchased from. There are other places one might find cheaper shipping or prices. Still I would not hesitate to recommend them as a one stop shop for Lee reloading equipment.

I should also add this stuff can suck money out of your wallet like a vacuum. Lot of tools and toys one can purchase, also some tools and equipment available is very high end. Lee tends to make budge priced items of good quality. That said you might want to look around and see if some other company is better represented in local stores or suppliers.

One can also get into loading for shot gun but that is a whole different topic. Lee makes a very functional but inexpensive press for shotgun reloading but MEC single stage is probably the leading press for that. MEC is more money but heavier duty and I think may do a better job of loading new hulls. The Lee handles loading once fired hulls very well with very inexpensive press. See this page for some examples.
https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/dept/reloading/shotshell-press?sortby=pricelowhigh&itemsperpage=30

One can save a lot more money loading brass rifle and pistol cartridges than reloading shotgun, at least at US prices.

[lefty o]

i wont get into equipment recommendations, as people get too uptight over what they use/like. as for reloading for dummies, about any quality loading manual the first big chunk of the book will cover 95% of anything you need to know. pick up a few manuals, as 1 just wont cover all the data you need. always double check any loading suggestions you find on the net against a manual, as when playing with stuff that creates very high pressures in your hands and near your face, you only get 1 chance.

[Jniedbalski]

I have had my single stage lee press for over 30 years. I bought the Lee kit. It’s a lot cheeper that way. Get the lee book and read it then re read it again. ‘My lee book is very worn . It is actually worn out from reading it so much.also the Lyman 49 and 50 edition are very good. There is also a lot of very good info on this site. Just search what you want to find out. A very good load for 308 Winchester is a 90 to 100 grain lead pistol bullet lee mold 100 2R or the 90 gr swc sized .311 and use 2.7 to 3.0 grains of bullseye powder. It shoots and sounds like a 22lr. Very nice load all the kids love it. It makes the 308 win bolt gun fun to shoot.

[dikman]

I started off with a Lee (value edition) turret press. I still use it for .44-40 and it works well. A single stage press will be slow going if you intend loading for pistol due to the quantity used! I "progressed" to a Lee Pro100 (2 actually) but I wouldn't suggest it as it can be fiddly to keep running smoothly. I sold one and use the other purely for depriming.38's, it does a quick job of depriming/resizing before cleaning. I then went to a Lee Loadmaster, it's great when everything works but its weakness is the primer feed system and despite all my efforts it still occasionally causes primer misfeeds. I now have a Dillon 650, expensive but very nicely made.

My suggestion is the Lee Turret (to start with) as it should cover all your needs initially.

As RogerDat said, this hobby can be a moneypit!

[Walter Laich]

my first suggestion would be to find a mentor but not sure how many folks reload in Italy

YouTube is a double-edged sword: there is some good ones out there but how to tell the good ones from the ones that are made by the lunatic fringe?

You could watch a number of them and figure what is common to most would be something to check on.

Cast Boolits is a great place to ask specific questions.

The reloading process is not difficult but care does need to be taken.

clean the brass
deprime the cast and resize it (usually done in same operation and with same die
reprime the case (can be done at the end of the deprime/resize operation step)
flare the mouth of the case so you can easily seat bullet on top --second die
add correct amount of power--scale is needed--I don't trust the dipper method without a scale to be sure
seat the bullet to correct depth and crimp --another die

done--now repeat till you run out of components are have enough ammo

[toallmy]

One of the nice things with reloading your own ammunition, is the ability to create your own ammo like you want to shoot it . Cast slug or buckshot in full or reduced loads . The same with your 38 , and 44 from peeshooter through hand cannon + rifles as well . The tricky part is doing it safely this is the most important part .
The powder available to you may be different than what is available to us but that can be worked out as long as powder is available to you .
Don't be to concerned about getting everything you need to start with because your always going to want something else as you grow into reloading .
A good scale can be purchased used on eBay do some research through not all scales are good scales .
A simple single stage press will last forever if taken care of also available used but research this piece of equipment as well .
Dies and shell holder will get you started with the press and powder scale .
Just pick one project to start with your choice 12,16,38,44,or 3006 .
Your starting out just right get the simple basic understanding of the process or fundamentals of loading a cartridge to begin with . Removing the old primer , resizing the used brass , installing the new primer , installing the proper powder charge , seating the projectile , or crimping the hull .

[gwpercle]

If you are short on space or don't have a bench to mount a reloading press , Lee makes a small single stage press you can hold in your hands and reload with. Called the Lee Hand Press .
I load all my handgun ammo , 9 different calibers , and 30-30 rifle with one .
Even though I have 3 bench mounted single stage presses and one turret press... I find loading inside my house more comfortable . I actually have two hand presses and use them for many case prepping steps and priming .

Welcome to the forum from Baton Rouge , Louisiana .
My wife's Italian !
Gary

[Jniedbalski]

I like my lee hand press a lot .I still use my lee cast press mounted to a old desk. With the hand press I can deprime and size, all my cases in one batch. Then I can prime. I can do this sitting on the couch watching tv. I can do a large batch of pistol brass and when I get tired one of the kids can take over. For seating the bullet and adding powder I still use my single stage cast press. I have loaded powder and seated the bullet using the hand press it worked fine but like the cast press mounted to a desk better for the final step. The biggest problem I see is for you getting the same powder that we have.all are load book might not help if you can get only certain powders. It is a fun hobby. I don’t know what I like best casting bullets or loading.

[tankgunner59]

Any manual will have the basic step by step procedure in the front of the book, and after it will be the load data. I have Lyman 49th and 50th editions, Lee's Modern Reloading second edition and Hornadys Handbook 9th edition. I also have Lymans Cast Bullet Handbook for my cast bullet loads. When you get one read the informational section in front then read it a second time before continuing to the data. I started with Modern Reloading second edition before I ever loaded a case, and it gave me all the info I needed. Almost all of my equipment is Lee Precision, it is economical and good quality. I use two Lee bench mounted single stage presses and one hand press.

[NyFirefighter357]

my first suggestion would be to find a mentor but not sure how many folks reload in Italy

YouTube is a double-edged sword: there is some good ones out there but how to tell the good ones from the ones that are made by the lunatic fringe?

You could watch a number of them and figure what is common to most would be something to check on.

Cast Boolits is a great place to ask specific questions.

The reloading process is not difficult but care does need to be taken.

clean the brass
deprime the cast and resize it (usually done in same operation and with same die
reprime the case (can be done at the end of the deprime/resize operation step)
flare the mouth of the case so you can easily seat bullet on top --second die
add correct amount of power--scale is needed--I don't trust the dipper method without a scale to be sure
seat the bullet to correct depth and crimp --another die

done--now repeat till you run out of components are have enough ammo

https://www.google.com/search?q=Reloading+basics&client=firefox-b-1-d&sxsrf=ACYBGNTZP8fLbW_QAA5-lMWm1mPUBaOQaw:1571970226899&source=lnms&tbm=vid&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjC6OK3rbblAhXKY98KHflwCxwQ_AUIESgB&biw=831&bih=643

[country gent]

If your starting out buy a good manual like the lymans and read the "How to" sections several times. This gives an idea of the how what whys of it. Also may help you decide on equipment. Once you have this knowledge and an idea of whats required then look at equipment. Some of the kits are pretty complete and very good. Look at equipment online and better in person if possible. Also keep in mind an American manual my have different powders than whats available to you. A couple manuals isn't a bad thing as it gives some more info.

[ulav8r]

As you’re just getting started I would recommend one of the Lee reloading kits. You can get one of their kids that includes a scallop pressed powder dispenser and a few other items for right around 200 bucks. And for a basic manual, modern reloading second edition by Richard Lee. The lineman manual is great I do highly recommend them . If it anytime you plan on casting your own bullets I recommend a lineman cast bullet handbooks . But for a generic reloading manual that gives you basics safe load data along with step-by-step procedures on how to go about reloading I don’t think you can go wrong with the Lee manual. And like others have said read the manual don’t just go to the load data read the procedures

What is a "scallop pressed powder dispenser??? Who publishes the "lineman manual"?? Using proper terminology will help someone who is not familiar with the resources for reloading. I will assume you meant scoop powder dispenser and Lyman manual, but I could be wrong. I seem to remember having read an edition of "ABC's of Reloading" and learning a little from it.

Maurizio, as mentioned by several others, there are several books available that will give you most of the information needed. As far as equipment goes, most US made equipment is quite serviceable. Do not go with the cheapest press you can find, stick with mid-range or higher quality presses. Depending on the amount of pistol shooting you do, you may need one press for pistol ammo and another for rifle ammo. A little research will help you answer that. The best place to start that research would be on this forum, many people have asked similar questions here in the past.

Reading through this forum you can learn much, if you can recognize a snob by his manner you will also realize that you can not believe everything you hear. If you have more questions, please post them. I am glad to "see" you here and know that some others are sure to feel the same.

P.S. I did not check any of the videos brought up by the search in post 18, but please realize that ANYONE can post a youtube video. A printed book posted by a publishing company is more apt to have been reviewed by more than one knowledgeable person for errors and mis-information.

[RogerDat]

I knew this was out there! Lee Modern Reloading first edition is available online for free. https://archive.org/details/Modern_Reloading_1st_Edition_by_Richard_Lee

Can download the pdf as I recall or read online. Some of the information is a bit dated, and some equipment has changed a bit such as tools for seating primers. Not changed radically but somewhat. Not sure if Lee offered the turret press back then. The main thing is the process hasn't really changed, the equipment hasn't had to change much either.

Remember a bit in there on casting where the book suggested getting "block tin" from scrap yards for the tin used in cast bullets. That block tin would be tin tubing that was wrapped around an ice block in a tub of water to run beer through for "ice cold" beer. Been a long time since that was pretty much all scrapped out due to electric refrigeration replacing it. So like I said some stuff is a bit out of date. How you reload and what each tool provides and how it is used the book is still good information.

Not a bad read for free. Plenty of good useful information. I have the Lyman and the Lee manuals. Like the load data, much load data is available at the web sites of powder manufacturers but it is nice to have a book on hand.

The kits are a pretty good deal as long as they are not full of stuff you don't need. Or stuff you will want to replace. Lee scale is functional but not especially impressive. A used $50 RCBS or Dillion scale might serve you better long term. On the other hand the Lee scale in a kit will do the job allowing you to reload with your powder accurately measured. Many if not most reloading is done with a powder dispenser, the scale is used to confirm the right amount is being dropped by the dispenser. Although some measure every charge. I do when I load for family. For myself I check about every 5 charge on the scale. For some loads it might only be every 10. When the charge almost fills the case I can visually confirm it looks "right" so I scale check less often.

Money pit yes but being able to make an accurate and mild pistol round for my wife is priceless. And I'm not unhappy that I can make a mild rifle round for plinking at targets. Nice to know the rifle can shoot decently at 500 meters, but if I'm just punching paper at 100 meters maybe I don't need all that power and recoil from commercial ammo.

[mdi]

The most popular text and closest to "Reloading for Dummies" is "The ABCs of Reloading", it is a text dedicated to the "how to" of reloading and has chapters on safety, chapters on component descriptions (brass, bullets, primers powders, and cast bullets), chapters on tools/equipment and step by step rifle, handgun, and shotgun loading.

Reloading is fairly easy, no magic/mysteries, just straightforward assembling ammo. But potentially dangerous if one doesn't pay attention to details, get's sloppy, or follow tested load data (ignore any load data seen in a forum).

Go Slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...

[44magLeo]

Most of the manufacturers sell kits. The Lee kits give good value.
With a bit of shopping around you can pick up quality tools at good prices.
I find a lot of my tools online. Ebay is one I use a lot. Many retailers sell online.
Getting things shipped from the states to Rome may prove costly.
I also recommend starting with a few of the basics. First a good book. Those mentioned are good. I also like Hornady's books. In the front they explain what happens when pull the trigger. It has pictures that show how the case fits the chamber before and after firing.
It uses these pictures to explain the steps you need to do to reload the empty case.
I have many books. Some current, some older, as far back as the 70's. I don't think you can have to many sources of good information. I use online sources as well. Mostly from component manufacturers.
Any I find other places I cross reference them to other sources. That way if there is a mistake in the info I can spot it before I do something I can't undo.
I would also start with just one of your cartridges choices. One of the pistol cartridges. I load for both of your pistol choices. For a very basic set up a Lee Loader can get you started. They come with all the tools you need in a small kit. These load just one cartridge.
A hand press such as the Lee is a more versatile tool. This can be used with the proper dies to load most anything.
A bench mounted press does everything a hand press can be easier and faster.
If you want faster loading you can move up to a turret or progressive press.
Along with these you can start with simple to use powder measuring tools. A set of dippers like Lee makes can't get much simpler. Best to keep loads low to mid range with these.
Moving up to a powder scale lets you accurately weigh powder charges to load closer to max loads and to get more consistently accurate loads. Lee's Safety scale is a good value. It takes some getting used to but is very accurate.
Most use some sort of powder measure. There are many to choose from. Lee is about the most inexpensive.
I guess I've rambled along far enough, so I'll be off.
Leo

[yeahbub]

Saluto, Maurizio! Welcome to the forum.

The LEE Classic Cast with the "breech lock" feature makes for quick and repeatable die changes. Very convenient. Once the dies are set up in the inserts, they can be changed very quickly without having to screw them in or out. According to LEE, it is approved for swaging bullets, so there's no lack of strength there. Likewise, the LEE reloading book goes into great detail concerning many aspects and details of loading ammunition.

[Wayne Smith]

A couple of issues - the Lee manual data is only a copy of the powder company's data - and that is all on line, so there is no need to purchase that. The Lyman and Sierra manuals have complete reloading instructions in the front and tested and proven data in the back. If you are interested in casting boolits the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, Vol. 3 and Vol. 4 are very handy.

As far as hardware is concerned it will probably be limited to what is locally available to you unless you want to import personally. We have no idea what is locally available to you, so to adequately answer your questions we need to know what is locally available or if you can buy online from the US.

If you have an electronic reader check and see what reloading/casting resources might be available there.

[robg]

Lee book and equipment will get you started then read all you can and go slow till you get the hang of things.

[trapper9260]

Welcome I say get the Lyman 50th manual and then you will have everything in there you want to know and then some.

[mdi]

I have to say the Lee manual's front half is an entertaining read, but the data section is lacking. IMO, most any "How to Reload" text is better. If you can only get one (more is recommended) the Lyman 50th is a good manual with a good How To section, but for beginners, I still recommend "The ABCs..."

[RogerDat]

I went with Lyman for a manual but that was because I started with the cast bullet handbook from them. The Lee I read first because it was available free online.

You can unscrew the bushing in the Lee Classic Cast "O" style press and replace it with the bushing sleeve for the quick change die collars from Hornady. I'm pretty sure it was the Hornady that fit Lee classic press. This allows you to have the quick change feature without having to if you don't wish to purchase the locking collar for each die. The female part of the locking system just threads into the press in place of the bushing that comes with the press. With it in you can twist lock the dies in using the male collars. But swap back to the bushing and you can then thread in the die without the collars.

The Breech Lock press pretty much requires one have the collars on the die that twist lock into it for quick change. You buy that Breech Lock press and you would want to purchase some collars for the dies up front to save on shipping them a few at a time. Unless they are available locally in Italy.

With shipping to Rome being what it probably is there is some advantage in just buying one press kit. Things such as the Lee Hand press, or a smaller C press, or moving up through different presses as one gets more experienced and wishes to increase productivity carries a much higher cost with international shipping. Even the lowly Lee Loader (whack-a-mole) set while small and inexpensive would probably require a scale or at least a full set of Lee scoops to measure powder. The one scoop that comes with it only has a limited selection of powder that it measures into a safe load.

I started with a Lee Loader for 38 special, was thrilled to use it to make some working ammo. A month later I'm doing the same research the OP is doing to figure out what press to replace it with. I settled on the Lee Classic Cast Turret press. I can crank out ammo with index rod in. I can take the rod out and use it as a single stage. Eventually I added a couple of vintage "C" presses for sizing cast bullets and other lighter weight tasks. All mounted on plywood that allows removal from bench. I now find I may want to replace one of the "C" presses with a stronger and larger "O" press. It would do what the C press does but easier and could do tasks that require a stouter press. Such as converting 30-06 brass to 8mm Mauser using a forming die. That job is I think a bit abusive to the turret press. It does it but...

I can go to a gun show and pick any of these items up, shipping is generally around $10 or less for an order, buying used has low cost shipping too. It makes it a whole different situation than international shipping. If I need more bushings or an accessory the cost for shipping that individual item won't be significant. Ordering from the states to ship to Italy will bump that purchase up a good deal.

I think a Lee turret press kit, or Lee Classic Cast O press kit shipped as one order would save money and there isn't much you can't do with either one. I would add a couple or three of the little square index rod bushings if I ordered a turret press. You can break them by short stroking the press, little inexpensive part, would stink to have to pay to have them shipped over on their own. I would also possibly order the reloading die kit for .38 or 44 mag at the same time. One box shipped should be less expensive.

There are some good reasons that people purchase RCBS or Hornady presses and equipment. Or Dillon. All make some fine tools. For someone starting out and having to pay even more for shipping making the purchase price much higher I think the Lee kit(s) offer the most bang for the euro.

I would not forget the Lee Load-All for shotgun IF the price of components in Italy allows for reasonable cost savings over buying budget shotgun shells. Here in the states I think one can save about 3 cents a shell reloading. Takes the savings from a lot of shells to pay for a press. Competitive skeet or clay shooters will use that many. Most of us won't. I only reload shotgun to load slugs and buckshot because those shells are more expensive to purchase in a store. But since I have the equipment.... I also ended up doing some smaller shot. Not saving money but am getting some of those 25 lb. bags of #7.5 shot I scrounged used up so that is good. :-)

[RKJ]

I started with Hornady's third manual many years ago and read everything in it before I even thought of which press. A lot of folks recommend a single stage press,but I would go with the Lee Turret press (kit) if you can get it in italy. You can remove the auto index and rotate the turret yourself and when you feel comfortable with a (progressive) you can put the auto index for back in.

[Three44s]

Idiots? Dummies?

No!

Newbies! As a Colonel in the military of a NATO nation you sir are perhaps a newbie at handloading ammunition, but no dummy much less an idiot.

Moreover, no dummy or idiot dare to venture into a stocked load room much less attempt to function in one.

As others have posted I suggest a guide like the “ABC’s Of Reloading” as a good starting point.

Also I suggest avoiding the Chevy vs Ford debate as to tool brands especially in the begining. Members in gun forums get so perplexed as to brand X vs. brand Y some of them need blood pressure meds after a typical fight on the internet.

For a while I would read much and buy nothing but more references. For a loader of rifles, there is a section in the Hornady manual that ought to be compulsory reading. It involves a color sketch series and explanation on head space.

Head space is often poorly understood by seasoned loaders. Getting a firm grasp on the subject is crucial in my opinion.

I own a TON of resource materials and cherish every bit of it.

Videos are also informative after you have wetted your appetite for knowledge with written resources and also interacting with other handloaders on forums such as here.

If you could find a mentor that has some fair amount of experience at loading to work with you could gain some hands on experience before you dive in and spend serious money. Getting an actual feel of this really aids one’s decision process. Perhaps you run away from the “fire” or, in contrast you dive in head over heals or just ease into the craft.

I have hand loaded since I was a wee nipper of 19 years old and am 63 now. There are many members here that out class me by a considerable margin and yet our opinions vary in substantial ways.

For my money there is no finer tool than a quality single stage press. Buy once, cry once. There are many here that feel that anyone can start with a progressive press. I disagree. I own several single stage tools, some turret presses and a couple progressives and I would no more want to start on a progressive than jump into a dry swimming pool head first.

A turret press is fine for a starter but I still lean heavily to a good single stage for a begining press. After many years of loading I find a single stage used at the very least for many tasks even with a progressive at hand. They are just too indispensable to ignore in my opinion.

You will undoubted experience the huge disagreement about starting with a progressive that happens every time on these newbie threads. However much of a blood sport it turns into, do not allow it to turn you off to the hobby or to participating in reasoned discussion here or elsewhere.

With the huge choice of brands, styles and weights of tooling it behooves a person entering this field to do a little research before plunking down the money and regretting their choice if it later does not suit them. Being in a European country and buying “gun stuff” made in the USA compounds the issues such as cost and perhaps rigamarole?

A litttle light at the end of this tunnel however!

You noted 44 Mag (ouch). LOL!

Well not with handloading and particularily if you cast your own bullets! The 44 Mag is an outstanding cartridge that is very flexible and can be an absolute gentleman if loaded accordingly.

You also mentioned shotshell. With the price of cheap shot shells vs the high cost of buying bird shot it takes a sharp pencil to justify taking up loading for shotguns. Now if you saw my stash of shot gun presses you would be tempted to call me a liar! But the fact is most of them were given to me from shot gun shooters giving up on loading shot shell. But that is not the whole story!

I find that good hunting ammo of certain types are more expensive to buy made up but loading them yourself not so much more expensive. Also a shooter who is particular can find handload recipes that favor their particular shot gun unlike any factory shell. Furthermore there are certain gauges of shotgun that use ammo where there are no bargains to be had. Finally, some folks want to be as self sufficient as possible and will load shot shell even if it actually costs a bit more, just because!

But that said, I would set my sights on gaining a foot hold in metallic hand loading if it were me before venturing into shot shell. The two worlds are very far apart and both can be pretty demanding to launch into. Everyone’s circumstances are unique and perhaps you are retired? But that is my take on that issue.

We will gladly help you in all you seek here.

And by the way, a belated WELCOME to the forum!

Three44s

[EDG]

For shotshells it is easy.
1. Buy a Lyman shotshell reloading manual
2. Buy a MEC loader

Why?
Shotshell loading for a guy that shoots a lot generally means you pick out one load per gun and you shoot it forever. Some times there are guys that like to play with different wads and powders and that is easy enough to learn after you have reloaded a few thousand shotshells. Just concentrate on using the most common, easiest to find, cheapest components if you shoot a lot. If you can afford top quality components in bulk that is good too.

For auto pistols reloading is much like shot shells. You do not normally play with a lot of variations. You reload the same loads over and over.
You need a Lyman Metallic reloading manual plus maybe a Speer Manual and a Hornady Manual.

Revolvers are a little more flexible but are very simple to reload. Use the same 3 manuals that you use for auto pistols.

Centerfire rifles - use the same 3 manuals

Most current US manufactured equipment is satisfactory for reloading metallic centerfire ammo.
Many handloaders have a mix of equipment brands.
I like RCBS presses, dies and powder scales. I use a Forster case trimmer and Forster Bench Rest Dies.

I prefer the MEC shotshell loaders since they are popular, parts are easy to get and cheap.



I taught myself to reload 50 years ago by reading magazine articles and reloading manuals. You might try your local library to see what they may have. You can also search the internet.
Most of the learning comes from actually reloading. It is a simple process when broken down to about 5 steps.

[RogerDat]

A true progressive press is probably to be avoided by anyone starting out. They can be very fiddly and fussy to get set up. A progressive press does a step on multiple pieces of brass at once then rotates one die station. After all the die stations are filled from a case being added to the first station as the base rotates then each pull of the handle a finished cartridge comes off the last station.

All 5 steps are done at once, thus all 5 dies have to be adjusted just right so that none prevent the others from coming up far enough to do their step in the process. Primer feed and powder drop also have to be adjusted in conjunction with everything else. As someone pointed out, they work well for someone who has one load for a specific caliber that they always load the same and they will go through a lot of ammo. Have a friend with one for loading 9mm but then he hits the range once or twice a week and burns through a lot of 9mm so a progressive makes sense. He has it set up for that 9mm load, and leaves it set up for that 9mm load all the time. Uses a turret press for his other reloading.

I have a Mec shotsell progressive press for 20 gauge and despite about 25 years of working in machine shops and manufacturing and having been a certified master motorcycle mechanic that thing ate my lunch for nearly a month. Turned out one base bolt was one hole off, man I was close to tears when I found out which hole it should be in by calling the manufacturer. The single stage Mec shot shell press I had set up in an evening.

A turret press is different than a progressive in that only one operation is done at a time, and only one cartridge case is in the press at a time. The disk with all the dies in it rotates one station each down stroke after the brass is pressed up into the die directly above the cartridge case. Thus each die adjustment is independent of the others because each die is used one at a time. The auto rotation and having to only place the brass cartridge on the press once is where it can save time.

A single stage press you put a single die in and do that one step to many cases one at a time. Then change dies and run all the cases through for the next step. The advantage is you can focus on doing that one step exactly right. Making a box of 50 cartridges on a single stage you would do each step 50 times then do the next step 50 times, and the next etc. People either mind the slower pace or don't. Many find reloading relaxing and being able to focus on one operation at a time is useful.

What decided me on a turret press is I can remove a small rod and the turret no longer auto rotates, making it really no different than a single stage in operation. Starting out I would definitely use it that way. Once one is comfortable with each operation then putting the rod back in to regain auto indexing is always an option.

This guy has an excellent 6 video series on using the Lee Classic Cast turret press. Cover the whole operation from start to finish. Just look for the turret press videos numbered 1 through 6 None are real long and some are pretty short. I found it very useful when getting started with that press.

https://www.youtube.com/user/sfliberal/videos

[mpescatori]

OK, Thanks , all !

Yes, being 40 years in the military, one goes through a lot of hardware, but it's all prepacked, ready-made, and one only has to open the box, feed the clip to the magazine, and presto!

I personally see reloading as a rather zen kind of activity, where one must relax, clear his mind, concentrate and dive in. Very much like archery or the like.

I promise I will stay well clear of Ford-Chevy arguments… and I'm a Mopar man anyways ! :lol:

Thank you for explaining the essential difference between a progressive and a … single stage (?) press.

There's no need to import equipment fro the US, it's all already available, but the difficulty lies in understanding which is best for the money.

My shotguns are all straight grip, dual trigger, external hammer side-by-sides, I like their style, it's called "english style" in Europe, as opposed to hammerless "pistol grips" which are more Continental style.
As they're all pretty old (pre-WW2) I like light loads (24:28 grams in a 12ga.) which are often called "trap/skeet loads"- but I understand I might as well buy them ready-made.
My Garand spits out its spent cases all over the place, and in a grassy range one will spend eons trying to recoup it all, that is why I am looking at a bolt-action or even an express.

Revolvers… I'd like to have my bit of fun reloading .44 cases in various grades of "Spl" oomph, without actually having to go "Magnum".
If anyone has ever fired a .38-40, .44-40 or .45LC revolver in black powder mode, you will have appreciated the progression of black powder compared to the punch of smokeless; that is what I would like to achieve by reloading.

I have saved the "Lee #1 manual" link and will read it, I am afraid I can't download it - pity that.

Thank you again :)

[Three44s]

Good point ..... a rather Zen sort of activity!

That applies to shooting as well.

We say in handloading one wants to eliminate distractions for safety sake. I may do radio but no TV or other form of video while I am in my man cave (load room).

If you feel like you are not going into this hobby lightly but rather for the long haul then look at really good presses. All the major companies make top flight single stage and turret presses. The trolley jumps the tracks when we go into a discussion about progressives and most of the “bitter “ discusions center around those.

I would maintain that the RCBS Rockchucker, Redding’s single stage press line, Lee’s Classic cast single stage, a Lyman compound single stage (if they manufacture one right now) and a Hornady compound press are all very good tools that would last generations with a modicum of care and that you would never regret purchasing.

Another press, the Forester CoAx, also a single stage is in a league by itself. While the leverage might be a bit less than the more robust Rockchucker and ilk it brings another attribute many cherish, that of allowing an installed die to float or self center during operations. Depending on the size of cartridges you might be shooting a bit less leverage may not be an issue. The Ultra Mags, 338 Lapua and ilk may or may not be a challenge?

The turret presses by those same manufactures currently produced are very good as long as we narrow the discussion about Lee to the Classic Cast Turret. Lots of folks swear by the less expensive alluminum framed turret and that is fine but the fact is they are not in the same class.

By all accounts the new Lyman American 8 station turret is going to be a winner and Redding and RCBS produce turret presses to be proud of.

Let’s leave the “hot potato” alone (progressive press brands).

As far as shotshell loading it’s not that it is difficult as a whole, it is just so different from rifle and handgun that I think that absorbing one major hobby at a time makes sense. The idea of custom loading for your older shotguns has merrit. I don’t think that means waiting a particularily long time but some dust could settle first.

There is a lot of used equipment for sale and that would /could offer great value. The decisions can be a little more nettlesome because some tool makers have some “interesting” prior models that may or may not fit your situation. Some is obsolete and some does not offer enough leverage but much of it is very good. It is a mixed bag.

Specifically about 44 Mag: I look upon this cartridge and the other magnum revolver cartridges for that matter like rungs on a ladder that are adjustable. From the level of 44 Russian to the top magnum Bear cruncher, you can by adjusting bullet weight, powder and powder charge and primer fit the task at hand. After you get into it you will find that there are power levels above the 44 special but short of full on magnum loads that are very powerful but not abusive. It is very remarkable and rewarding.

Three44s

[dverna]

Getting a mentor is over rated. Some guys have 1 year of experience 20 times over and bad habits.

If you can read and comprehend it is an easy process.

I started reloading as a teenager before the internet and learned from books. It is not rocket surgery to produce safe ammunition. Sites like this one are valuable once you determine who you should listen to.

I still load rifle ammunition on my first single stage press....now 50 years old. Good way to start.

Good luck!

[RogerDat]

On that Garand spitting brass all over the territory, one nice thing about reloading is one can often gain some control over that. The Garand CAN be used at longer ranges than it is typically used at. If one is at a 100 or 150 meter range most of the time one doesn't need a load that will be accurate at 500 or 750 meters. Thus one can down load a touch and keep the brass closer to the shooter.

Not sure if all auto loaders will work well this way but a Ruger Mini-14 in .223 sure does and it uses a rotating ejection mechanisim that was copied from the Garand. Goes from flinging brass beyond a 5x7 foot tarp to putting it almost in a pile, with an occasional "bouncer" that get tossed further away or in an odd direction.

Just one more reason to reload.

Shooting and reloading are very zen like. Both activities one is trying to do something that is basically simple but trying to do it perfect and exactly the same every single time tends to require a level of focus that crowds out extraneous thoughts. You must become one with the reloading press seems somehow like appropriate line to end on.