New Lee Locknuts

[jimkim]

These look interesting. I guess someone listened to me about making some that use a spanner. My idea was to put two holes through them and use a socket with two pins in it to tighten them. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191011/b9b52b4186e5bf03546742854604a85f.jpg

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[Conditor22]

lee ULTIMATE LOCK RINGS 3 PACK 90566

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1021760132?pid=575065

https://fsreloading.com/lee-precision-ultimate-lock-rings-3-pack.html

[abunaitoo]

They look good.
But I have so many of the old style.I'll probably not try them.

[GONRA]

Sure look great to GONRA! Will get some on next MIDWAY order.

[1hole]

Gag.

Those of who understand why Lee's lock rings have always been made the way they were - and used them correctly - won't be making tracks to buy the new ones so I don't care one way or the other. (Anyone using a wrench of any kind to jack down hard on a lock ring is doing it wrong, a hand tight die is plenty tight.)

[winelover]

I guess then all other manufactures are doing it wrong, since they have lock nuts with some type of locking mechanism. As a rule, I don't purchase many Lee products. The few specificity dies that I have of their's, have the old style lock nuts. I have notice them slightly moving, when I switch dies. Finally, Lee has seen the light. BTW, I've been reloading for near on 50 years.

Winelover

[mtnbkr]

What problem does this solve?

While I use a wrench to tighten mine down, I only go as far as it takes to compress the rubber o-ring. I've never had a die come loose or lose it's adjustment.

Having a proprietary nut and wrench combo is just asking for the little wrench to be lost and being worse off than you were with the old style.

Chris

[sparkyv]

Looks good, but I'd need to spend at least $88 to equip my dies. Pass.

[jmorris]

I’d just get the small Dillon ones and use a boxed end wrench I already have lots of vs some special tool to keep up with.

https://media.istockphoto.com/photos/box-end-spanner-wrench-nut-and-bolt-picture-id173921782

[country gent]

Im betting that exterior pattern matches the détente on their press also that holds locates the bushing and or bayonet lock in place. O like it and think it is an improvement. I seldom use a wrench to tighten but have need one after a long session to loosen a die that sucked in tighter.

[Froogal]

What problem does this solve?

While I use a wrench to tighten mine down, I only go as far as it takes to compress the rubber o-ring. I've never had a die come loose or lose it's adjustment.

Having a proprietary nut and wrench combo is just asking for the little wrench to be lost and being worse off than you were with the old style.

Chris

It appears to be a solution to a problem that does not exist.

[hpdrifter]

I like it! Especially for a 5 or 6 die turret where there is no room for a little 'mechanical advantage".

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I have been reloading since 1964, slowly I have put the Lee O-ring lock rings on all the dies I use. I use the the Lee Turrets and screw my dies into the turret one time. Spinning dies was/is always annoying using a single die press.

[mdi]

Gag.

Those of who understand why Lee's lock rings have always been made the way they were - and used them correctly - won't be making tracks to buy the new ones so I don't care one way or the other. (Anyone using a wrench of any kind to jack down hard on a lock ring is doing it wrong, a hand tight die is plenty tight.)

I couldn't agree more. I have been saying for years (I first found reloading forums in 2007), "lock rings for keeping dies in a press need only be finger tight and the Lee O-Ring lock nuts work". Maybe I'm brighter than many (nah!) but as a lifelong machinist/mechanic I can see how nuts/bolts, locking or plain work (working for a large city as a heavy equipment mechanic/electrician we had quite a bit of vendor training and IIRC we had a full week "training" on threads, nuts and bolts, tolerances and the interaction between male threads and female threads.). Lee lock nuts work, if one knows how to use them...

[Shawlerbrook]

Agree! A solution in search of a problem.

[KenT7021]

I replaced the lock rings on the few sets of Lee dies I own with RCBS lock rings.They work better for me and hold adjustment when changing dies.

[Bookworm]

The new lock rings do indeed look interesting.

I've used the Lee rings for many years, the type with the rubber o-ring. I have often wanted to get them just a bit tighter than I could with fingertips in the small area of a turret press. I like the idea of the little wrench.

The question I have is this: if the rubber o-ring design works, why have a split ring with a bolt to tighten it also?

The split ring design is a hassle, because many times the lock bolt is inaccessible.

I would have preferred the spline drive outer diameter, with the o-ring of the original, without the split ring design.

However, Lee Precision doesn't listen to me.

[WebMonkey]

Might want to consider they're intended for the breech lock bushings.
You twist the die body back and forth to insert/remove the die/bushing pair from the press.

Finger tight will allow the die to rotate inside the bushing and throw off the adjustment.

Screw in press or turret, finger tight is coolio.
Quick change bushings, need to lock the die down.

[hpdrifter]

I have been reloading since 1964, slowly I have put the Lee O-ring lock rings on all the dies I use. I use the the Lee Turrets and screw my dies into the turret one time. Spinning dies was/is always annoying using a single die press.

I normally do same, however, when loading 45 colt I sometimes switch between bullets. I invariably have to adjust things a bit when I do. I almost always have to fine a small pair of channel lock pliers to loosen the finger tight O ring die.

[robg]

The whole point of the Lee lockrings is to be hand tight ,put Lee lockrings on all my dies much simpler to use.

[jimkim]

Gag.

Those of who understand why Lee's lock rings have always been made the way they were - and used them correctly - won't be making tracks to buy the new ones so I don't care one way or the other. (Anyone using a wrench of any kind to jack down hard on a lock ring is doing it wrong, a hand tight die is plenty tight.)Some people have joint, or nerve issues. I have both now.

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[hpdrifter]

Some people have joint, or nerve issues. I have both now.

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Some folks just don't understand old age and handicaps.

[Walks]

If you use the Lee lock rings on their dies and the Regular ones on your other brand dies, you'll always be messing up the alignment of your lee dies. I have only a few specialty lee Dies. I fit them with any other brand that screws down tight, just pull them from the old die junk box. It's amazing how much stuff is in that box after 45+yrs.

[EDG]

I loathe Lee lock rings. I set my bottle neck FL dies to position the shoulder to an exact match to my chambers. This is exact to .001". The Lee dies permit the die body to move in the lock ring. This changes the die setting and is unacceptable.

[beechbum444]

I never understood lee lock rings for dies , prefer rcbs ....

[tdoor4570]

I wonder if lee will give trade in on the old style o-ring lock nuts which I dislike very much .

[alamogunr]

Looks interesting. Might try one set to see how it works out on the turret. Set screws are a pain in a turret.

[nvbirdman]

If I was just starting out reloading I would think the new Lee locknuts are wonderful, but like some others here I would go bankrupt trying to switch all my dies over to the new locknuts.

[mdi]

The question I have is this: if the rubber o-ring design works, why have a split ring with a bolt to tighten it also?
I can't remember any rings with both an O-ring and locking clamp. The O-ring exerts an upwards force, pushing the ID threaded part upward and "jamming", adding friction to the threads and "locking" the assy. in place. The clamp type squeezes the nut against a body (OD thread). The O-ring type lock the die in the press and the clamp type lock the ring against the die. A clamp type ring acts like a bolt head, a solid stop, when the die/clamp is tightened in a press.That's the Reader's Digest (quickie) version.

When I started reloading, way pre-web, I used the lock rings that came with the dies. I read the instructions and didn't try to "retain" an adjustment every time I removed/replaced dies in my press. I checked and adjusted every time I installed a die...

[Rebel Dave]

I did the same as MDI. I think we all have been spoiled to a certain degree, with all the gadgets available on the market this day and age.
Dave

[725]

Looks interesting to me, but then I'm not one to criticize those in search of a better mouse trap. My stuff works just fine as is. If I find I want to try something new, I'll have an option.

[onelight]

Those look like a good option for some applications .
I may order a couple of sets.

[1hole]

The whole point of the Lee lockrings is to be hand tight ,put Lee lockrings on all my dies much simpler to use.

I have dies from all makers except Dillon (only because they were never at hand when I wanted another die set).

I hate the common set screw lock ring system for any dies and such locking power isn't needed - nor helpful - anyway. Cross-screw lock rings are "best" IF anyone thinks they need something to keep them from screwing up their adjustments.

Jamming a lock ring and die down with a wrench makes die exchanges both clumsy and slow and it adds nothing to the quality of the ammo. Lee's rubber "O" ring lock and hand tight dies are plenty secure for what dies need to do. Lee's rubber locking ring (used correctly) prevents unintended die turning and still allows the dies to self adjust for any machining slop in the 7/8" x 14 die-to-press threads ... and they ALL have some!

I have no idea why so many die makers have long used hex bar stock for their lock rings unless it's easier/faster (i.e., cheeper) for automatic lathes to cut and thread. But there are no dies superior to Forster/Bonanza and their lock rings have always been made of round aluminum bar stock without wrench flats, diamond knurled to provide a secure hand grip. (I really like the cross-bolt F/B lock rings ... at least after I've lathe turned the lower faces flat and perfectly square to the dies.)

[DougGuy]

I have to use the old ones a lot to be able to lock them onto a die body and chuck it up in the lathe. They work pretty good for that purpose, I doubt the new ones would have the same utility.

[JBinMN]

I just use all the different types.

Lee with the Oring, regular RCBS, Hornady, Dillon, Lyman, etc.for locking rings.

I have about 10 or so turret "rings" and a couple of lyman presses already set up with about 4 dies a piece & used lock rings of all different sorts to get them set & "stay set".

If one of the little allen screws was not easily reached to set the screw, I usually removed the die & ring, turned the ring over & then reset the die. Most times it made the screw easier to set.

I adapted to what I had to use. Between all of the different types/styles, I made things work.

If these new ones are the "cats meow" for some, great, but I still have a lot of extras of many kinds that I bought & am not going to buy any of these new styles with the special wrench & I do not have one of the Lee locking style presses ( Yet), but a buddy has one & I find it kind of a pain in the butt to dink with. YMMV of course.

( I like old vehicles before computer run ones, Zippo lighters or matches over Plastic lighters, a pen/pencil & a piece of paper/chunk of wood to do math, etc., so perhaps "the dinosaur in me" resists change... ;) )

Good Luck to those who want the new stuff , but I am sticking to the stuff I already have.
:)

[kenton]

I can't remember any rings with both an O-ring and locking clamp. The O-ring exerts an upwards force, pushing the ID threaded part upward and "jamming", adding friction to the threads and "locking" the assy. in place. The clamp type squeezes the nut against a body (OD thread). The O-ring type lock the die in the press and the clamp type lock the ring against the die. A clamp type ring acts like a bolt head, a solid stop, when the die/clamp is tightened in a press.That's the Reader's Digest (quickie) version.

When I started reloading, way pre-web, I used the lock rings that came with the dies. I read the instructions and didn't try to "retain" an adjustment every time I removed/replaced dies in my press. I checked and adjusted every time I installed a die...

If you want to see a lock ring with both an o-ring and locking clamp take a closer look the picture OP posted.

[Kenstone]

I’d just get the small Dillon ones and use a boxed end wrench I already have lots of vs some special tool to keep up with.



Yep, Dillon nuts, only I use 2 jammed/tightened together on each die, no wrench needed, just hand tighten the die into the press...done.
2 Dillon nuts under the powder thru expander and 2 risers
:mrgreen:

[rbuck351]

I don't use the old Lee type nuts as they are never the same setting after removing and reinstalling them. With a set screw or pinch bolt they can be set once, the nut locked in place and they don't need to be readjusted again. I don't use any tools to screw in the die. Finger tight never comes loose. If I end up with any of Lees new dies I will remove the O-ring and use the pinch bolt for a permanent adjustment. Won't need the cute little wrench.

[44magLeo]

The reason Lee is making this lock ring is the same reason they made the breech lock inserts with a lock ring. People didn't like the original devices and complained about them. To help stop the complaints they came up with new designs.
I have no issues with the original lock rings. The o ring holds the ring and die together just fine. On a turret or progressive press where room is at a minimum it may be different. I use single stage press's. Except for my Tru Line JR.
When I thread in a die, when the lock ring gets near the press I grip both the die and lock ring to snug it down.
When removing the die I hold both the die and lock ring for the initial loosening. When the lock ring comes clear of the press top, I just turn with the die.
This has worked just fine since this design came out.
I have used dies with both a set screw type lock and the split ring type lock. I use same technique to install and remove them.
I never used a wrench to snug in a die. Never had a die move with any type of lock ring.
Leo

[DonHowe]

To my mind, whatever "problem" the O-ring lock nut solves is offset by the difficulty (inability?) Of screwing a die in the same depth twice. Any advantage to the system, that I can see, would be when using removable turrets where the dies are set up once and left. I much prefer a solid lock which, once the die and lock ring are set up, provides the same solid stop every time.
But no, I do not need a wrench.

[Mytmousemalibu]

I use Dillon rings on all my progressive stuff just because of tight space. Just about anything else is fine on other equipment.

[jmorris]

Might want to consider they're intended for the breech lock bushings.
You twist the die body back and forth to insert/remove the die/bushing pair from the press.

Finger tight will allow the die to rotate inside the bushing and throw off the adjustment.

Screw in press or turret, finger tight is coolio.
Quick change bushings, need to lock the die down.


I prefer their lock ring eliminator bushings that don’t require any nut at all.

https://media.mwstatic.com/product-images/src/Primary/219/219749.jpg?imwidth=680

[Rapidrob]

If anyone needs the old style LEE Lock rings,let me know. I have a bunch of them and cannot use them in my press.
Maybe we can do some swapping?

[Drew P]

I’m surprised at the confusion why these are an improvement over the classic lee rings. A lot of people like to set the lock ring permanently while changing dies frequently right? That’s why people also over tighten them at times. I can imagine single stage press reloaders would be annoyed with the classic rings, as they lack a locking method. I’ve had rings come loose and cause problems. I have presses with limited clearance that these would be very beneficial on. They also appear to be able to be used without clamping, and have similar function to the old rings, which is great.
But really for me, I like to have many styles of lock rings because I find they all work best of a certain application. For instance I like to use a pair of Dillon rings on my powder measure because it makes micro adjustments easier for me. But any others won’t fit.
I like the classic lee ring for some things too where I want to have a controlled friction fit.
So, I don’t see any reason to fault Lee on these, and 8$/3 is an extremely low price for such a piece of hardware, and I know this because I’ve purchased thousands of shaft collars of various sizes and if this were for any other application they would cost 10 ea, or more!

[Ed in North Texas]

I replaced the lock rings on the few sets of Lee dies I own with RCBS lock rings.They work better for me and hold adjustment when changing dies.

This! The Lee rubber "O" ring works fine if you are installing dies in removable turrets where you have no intention of removing them. I use them in that manner. But for those calibers where I don't use a progressive press and swap dies as needed I find that the Lee lock rings tend to lose their place and I have to reset the dies for the same press they were previously used with. So I use Hornady (most often) or the rings which came with the non-Lee die sets. Set them and forget them (unless I change the crimp). And I don't use a wrench to tighten them, though sometimes a wrench is needed to remove a stubborn die after extended use.

[megasupermagnum]

My only hope is that they continue to sell the old style nuts, as I love them. I won't pretend like they are the most accurate method, but they always worked for me. Rifle bullet seating dies bottom out on the shell holder, meaning having the die body screwed in perfect is a moot point. In handguns, it has not given me any problems. I have repeatability of within .002", which is fine by me. If I have to ever so slightly tweak the seater sometimes, so be it.

Now why I like them, they are stone simple to use, easily adjustable on the fly, and do hold their spot. I just hand tighten them, maybe 1/8 turn past touching the o-ring. RCBS style is easily the worst. They are a threads worst nightmare with a set screw that jams straight into them. The Hornady lock rings are quite good, and I could see why people like them. I do not, as they are tricky to adjust. I am loading different things each time more often than not, I'm not one to keep loading the same load over and over every so often. The other thing is they can come loose unless you use a wrench. Not a big deal, but Lee does not come loose. Forester may have solved this by having very aggressive knurling, but I have only used one set of dies with these. Hornady has knurling, but it is rather smooth.

Another thing to consider is if you have to cut the ring off, aluminum is much easier. The only one I've had to cut was RCBS, with the set screw. About the only reason you would need to cut a cross bolt style Hornady or Forester, would be if you boogered up the bolt. It can happen.

Lee lock rings are cheap, often under $1 each, and work very well.


Now onto the new style, I don't like it. They kept them aluminum, which is good. They use a crossbolt, which if that's your thing, great. The o-ring is pointless. If you have a wrench, you don't need an o ring. They are more than double the cost, about what Hornady goes for. The big problem is they use a strange wrench. All you need is two flats. Something to get a standard wrench on, not a fancy Lee exclusive plastic wrench I would loose.

If Lee really wants to be innovative, they should find another solution to the cross bolt. Something like a thumb lever to lock down would make adjusting them so much easier.

If they got rid of the o-ring and groove, changed ratchet teeth for just two flats, they would cut down on cost. If sold for a cost less than Hornady lock rings, they would make more sense. As it is, I'd just buy Hornady so I could use a standard wrench on them. If I were to spend that much, and didn't like the old style Lee's, I'd take a good look a Forster's.

[1hole]

I despise lock rings with set screws no matter who makes them. IF we put a lead pellet (bird shot) under the screw the lead will easily deform into the threads deeply enough to make small die adjustments quite difficult. I prefer Lee's standard "O" lock rings first and anything with a cross lock screw is second but NOTHING with steel set screws! And if someone gave me a couple hundred of the currently popular "twist lock" (Lee/Hornady) die bushings I'd try to find someone who likes them and happily give him the whole bunch; I just don't need or want to add any threaded slop maker between my dies and presses ....

I'm indifferent to Lee's new cross lock rings and "Y" wrench. I'm convinced that cinching dies solidly into a press with steel wrenches is a noob practice because it's likely determintial to fine reloading - our threaded presses just aren't all that precise; that's why bench shooters rarely use them! But, Lee's wrench looks too short to allow over tightening and it really would be easier on aging fingers so .... they may be okay.

[jmorris]

I despise lock rings with set screws no matter who makes them. IF we put a lead pellet (bird shot) under the screw the lead will easily deform into the threads deeply enough to make small die adjustments quite difficult.

You could always just get nylon tipped setscrews.

https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-1ajgvuf91e/images/stencil/1280x1280/products/281/547/setscrew_nylontipped-1__92885.1531775608.jpg?c=2?imbypass=on

[Conditor22]

I got nylon tipped setscrews for all my dies from Fastenal

or:
#10-32x1/4" BRASS CUP POINT SOCKET SET SCREW (INCH) | Size: #10-32 | Length: 1/4" | Material: Brass | Finish: plain | Fine Thread | (QUANTITY: 100)

That you can use on your molds

[GWS]

I’d just get the small Dillon ones and use a boxed end wrench I already have lots of vs some special tool to keep up with.

I do like the idea of that neat little wrench Lee's showing....hang it next to the press....little and handy.

While I love box end wrenches, they are too wide on my stuff....and sometimes there's no room to get the long handle where I need it. True, Dillon 1050's would have plenty of room for them.

On the other hand, the new Lee nuts look too big around for my Pro Chucker 7.

RCBS's weird wrench and RCBS rings work on the PC7 most of the time, but not when you have a powder measure above it. Dillon rings are the smallest. Wonder what wrench they sell for them.

[Kenstone]

I do like the idea of that neat little wrench Lee's showing....hang it next to the press....little and handy.

While I love box end wrenches, they are too wide on my stuff....and sometimes there's no room to get the long handle where I need it. True, Dillon 1050's would have plenty of room for them.

On the other hand, the new Lee nuts look too big around for my Pro Chucker 7.

RCBS's weird wrench and RCBS rings work on the PC7 most of the time, but not when you have a powder measure above it. Dillon rings are the smallest. Wonder what wrench they sell for them.
this
https://www.amazon.com/Dillon-Precision-10842-Style-Wrench/dp/B00T70JDPW/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?dchild=1&keywords=dillon+die+nut+wrench&psc=1&qid=1572411392&sr=8-1-fkmr1
:kidding:

[smithnframe]

I've never liked the Lee rubber O-ring! I replace them all with lock nuts from Fastenal.

[redhawk0]

I prefer the clamp style lock ring for all my die bodies except the Lee Factory Crimp Dies. Especially for my FL sizer dies. Once set...they don't need to be moved and I have no desire to set it up every time I hit the press. I do make adjustments to the FCD depending on the rifle that I'm shooting so the standard O-ring style works best here. Tube mag rifles get more crimp. But I never felt the need to wrench it down.


redhawk

[1hole]

You could always just get nylon tipped setscrews.

Well, yeah. You can also cut small square chips of nylon or such and use them as a point pad. That works too and it's very inexpensive. But, IMHO, no matter how it's done, lock ring set screws still suck.

[GWS]

I have a question....has anyone actually buggered a die's threads with RCBS rings since they replaced their steel setscrews with brass setscrews?

I haven't.....and they hold quite well. Since they went to brass I quit changing them out for Hornady ones on my 5 station press. Hornadys work when the short side happens to screw in between dies....not so great when the long side is. The Forster round ones have their own problems (they are huge, and you have to use pliers since they are round). Dillons? no set screws right? So you have to double them on each die or never unscrew them. The one thing I like...especially for my 7 station press is Dillon's smallest size....but I'm getting by with RCBS's. May yet try Dillon ones, since on progressives once set up you shouldn't have to move them.....same with the Lee O-ring versions.

[Rapidrob]

Times have changed for sure. RCBS used to use a steel set screw OVER a single lead shot. The screw would crush the shot into the threads and lock the ring. I still have dies I bought 50 years ago and the lead shot, now flattened still holds the lock ring tightly.
The split ring with screw works well until the screw brakes,and it will given time.
The RCBS and Lyman type rings are the only type of lock rings I can use in my press. The Lee/o-ring cannot be used so I have a large bunch of Lee lock rings hanging on the wall.

[1hole]

Use pliers on a die lock ring? ARRRGHHH!

[engineer401]

Use pliers on a die lock ring? ARRRGHHH!

I use the piers with my plastic sleeves that go over the jaws. Hardware stores sell them. You get several sizes for a few bucks. I haven’t damaged any lock ring since using them. I also tried Plasti Dip but that didn’t stay intact well. None of my rings have plier marks.

[Tim357]

Gag.

Those of who understand why Lee's lock rings have always been made the way they were - and used them correctly - won't be making tracks to buy the new ones so I don't care one way or the other. (Anyone using a wrench of any kind to jack down hard on a lock ring is doing it wrong, a hand tight die is plenty tight.)
This ^^^^^^^^^^

[DiverJay]

Gag.

(Anyone using a wrench of any kind to jack down hard on a lock ring is doing it wrong, a hand tight die is plenty tight.)

Not only do I use a tool to tighten my lock rings, in some cases I even use Locktite. Especially for my Dillon Trim Dies because precision matters.

[hpdrifter]

Well, I liked the idea. Bought a package of 3.
Got problems with them, at least on my Cast Turret. Not enough room for them to pass each other if they line up towards the next die.
Reason to use them on turret; I don't have enough powder measures to go around so I alternate a few of them between turret setups.

Same for swaging type crimps.

Sometimes finger tight doesn't loosen up real easy by finger in tight quarters and have to break out pliers to get initial tight loose.

Makes them tedious to get adjusted. Maybe for the Classic cast single they maybe be ok, but I do most work on progressive and turret.

If they made them without the locking feature, I'd buy more.

[1hole]

Not only do I use a tool to tighten my lock rings, in some cases I even use Locktite. Especially for my Dillon Trim Dies because precision matters.

Diver, I have several very old trim dies but don't know a thing about Dillon's and doubt many others do. However, we're talking about reloading here, not case trimming. I really don't want the mess of Locktite in my presses and no die remains installed in my presses long enough for it to set-up anyway. But guess that's a personal thing.

The several types of Locktite are all a sort of slow acting cynoacrylate (Sp?) glue. So, if you like Locktite on your dies, why not use one of the much faster acting "Crazy Glues" instead? It acts fast enough to actually set up and it would precisely insure that your Dillon Trim Dies won't move! :)

"Precision" reloading doesn't come from wrenched down dies, cinching dies down that tight just isn't necessary. Brass cases work harden as they're used and that demands we constantly tweek dies for minute variations in case spring-back (the sizers anyway) IF we truly want precision.

Seriously, the often mentioned fear of dies untwisting in the press and changing during use is greatly over wrought. (Test it for yourself; I did.) The friction of Lee's hand tight rubber O locked rings are certainly not going to move if they are even moderately compressed, it just doesn't happen.


Okay, Engineer, protected-padded pliers seems a good idea if you aren't happy with knurled rings. But even the green gods of RCBS (and several others) used to make knurled lock rings because they knew hand tight is all the dies need. The die makers went to set screws over lead pellets because so many nervous customers wanted them.

Anyone that just has to have their dies wrenched in should try Hornady's Cross-Loc.

[BrutalAB]

254160
Just got my 350 legend dies in and found these on them. Was surprised as all get out. No set screw on them, no real opinion yet of the change. They grab my fingers pretty rough though.

[tankgunner59]

I can kinda understand the nurls for a better grip, but it looks like it could get a little painful. All of my dies are Lee and I use the original style lock rings/nuts finger tight. It has always worked fine for me, I won't be scraping up an order yet. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I'm supposed to get my dies for 6.5 Creedmoor tomorrow from Midsouth, I hope they have the old style lock rings on them. I do just fine with them.

[1hole]

I guess then all other manufactures are doing it wrong, since they have lock nuts with some type of locking mechanism.

Locked lock nuts cause me far more problems than Lee's. It's MUCH easier to make small die adjustments when there's no bit of lead or plastic firmly crammed into the threads.


Finally, Lee has seen the light. BTW, I've been reloading for near on 50 years.

Lee has finally bowed to majority market pressures and they wisely didn't use a set screw. But, they also effectively retained the old system for those of us who value them for what they permit.

I've been doing this since mid '65, that makes me almost for 55 years .. but I still don't toss that around or profess to know it all.
Yet. But I'm working on it! ;) ???

[elmacgyver0]

I guess I don't understand all the Lee hate.
It is not like anyone is holding a gun on you forcing you to buy Lee.
I think it is great that there is a lot of choices out there.

[tankgunner59]

Well it is apparently official. I received my new 6.5 Creedmoor dies today from Midsouth Shooter Supply and they included the new lockrings on each die. I got them all set up and I'm gonna process some brass tomorrow so I'll see if they are to my liking. They tightened onto the quick change bushings just fine. To be continued...