Need help/ideas for new reloading bench

[n10sivern]

I need some help and ideas. I am about to build a reloading bench 24 feet long. It’ll be L shape. I want to put cabinets or drawers under the bench top . Should I bring them out near the edge or recess them. I reload both standing up and sitting down. There will be a space above the bench top and I’m going to build overhead cabinets as well. Any ideas on the depth of the bench top? Post pictures of your setup if you have a long reloading bench please. Also, please post pics if you are using a Tee nut system for attaching presses and accessories.

[Valornor]

Are you going mount your presses directly to the top or are you going to use a riser?

The ram of the presses extend down, and if you don’t recess the cabinets enough you’ll have trouble opening the doors.

Personally I’d prefer to hang the cabinets on the wall so I can get everything thing from a standing position.

The depth of the counter shouldn’t be more then 24 inches, otherwise it becomes uncomfortable to reach for stuff at the back.

My bench isn’t set up right now or I’d share a photo.


Check out my website www.theballisticassistant.com

[n10sivern]

I don’t use a riser for my single stage presses. I do for my XL650’s.

[country gent]

I would recess them some for several reasons 1) as stated a lot of benches hang under the bench top making drawers or door opening difficult. 2) when sitting it gives room to get closer to the bench. 3) dust dirt and crud doesn't get into the drawers / cabinet as easily.

On a bench 24' Your going to want a very solid top or the center will be springy. What you might consider is a bench top from 2 X 6 laid flat and on edge meshed in. Maybe 2 2X6s edge to edge and 1 on edge 2 together and 1 on edge then 2 more to width. the L joint should be at 45* angle for added strength. A pic of the stiffening ribs can be seen in my new shop post in our town here. Doweled and glued joints in the top. Another plus to the ribs is it gives a solid mounting for the legs. If you have a drill press this can be done with a simple jig.

Width is personal preference. A wider bench is harder to reach the back holds more clutter and is more work. The benefits are a wider solider footprint, room on the back for orginizers and or tool boxes and shelves. Om the L joint I believe I would cut the ends of the 2 sections at a true 45* and dowel a 2 x 6 to each edge then bolt or dowel them together.

With any project. make some drawings and decide what you want then put down the steps to make on paper along with a list of tools. Last a material list of what will be needed in materials fasteners glues and finishes. While a bench can be built with hand tools a power miter saw, drill press and table saw can really speed up the work. Making a simple jig or fixture to cut drill and produce multiple parts can a big time saver. ( on my bench I layed out the first 2X4 for the butcher block top. then drilled carefully. fastened a stop on one end and 2 on the top edge. this became the fixture and all 21 boards of the top were set in it and clamped then drilled with no lay out needed.

Think it thru before starting and follow the plan

[n10sivern]

Thank you country gent. My top is going to be 3/4” plywood with a solid core door over it and topped off with a stained ash wall panel for looks.

[Three44s]

I second the notion about not going too deep with your counter top. You will have to think about the cupboards clashing with tall presses however.

I do not have a track and nut system but it intrigues me. Plenty of flexibility with them. Currently I use a steel framed wood top table I built and use like an island. Everything is bolted to wood or steel bases and the presses are C-clamped in place.

As far as under the bench storage remember you need a place for your legs and feet if you plan any sitting time.

A long bench top as you suggest seems very long. Your mileage might vary but if I had that I would soon have 24 feet of stuff and no where to work as I am a terrible pack rat!

We all load differently though and I know folks that set up a trio of single stage presses and work right down the line so what you are planning might just be the ticket!

If I set up a bench in my load room I was also thinking of an L shape but the long leg would be perhaps 8’ with the shorter leg about 6’. On the end of the 6’er I would then drop to a pure sitting height and a casting bench for 6 more feet.

But as I use my table I also think about an island of a smaller dimension and a shape like one you can find in a recent post in the bench thread that is a sticky. (octagon or hexagon or there about).

Three44s

[n10sivern]

I plan to use the Tee nuts as I change equipment often. Currently I need a place for a Co-Ax, rockchucker, orange crush, and 3 XL650’s. Plus space for scales, trimmers, etc. Part of the 24’ will be used for gunsmithing and part for building flashlights.

[rancher1913]

review the reloading bench thread on here, many many ideas, all with photos.

[n10sivern]

review the reloading bench thread on here, many many ideas, all with photos.

Believe me. I have.

[rancher1913]

ar15 also has a reloading bench thread with photos

[n10sivern]

This is where my bench is going. Back wall and right wall up to the door. The back wall is 14’ and it’s 10’ to the door.

249357

[rancher1913]

i would love to have that much room, mine is spread out in several buildings and kind of a pain when what you need is in the other shop.

[ulav8r]

The bench I built about 45 years has the top extending about 6 inches in front of the storage area below. It seems to work fairly well. Thinking about using drawers, I think I would leave about a 4-5 inch space between the top drawer and the bottom of the bench top so the drawers can be opened even with equipment mounted above them.

[Winger Ed.]

I don't like my bench to be more than about 30" front to back.
I can easily reach everything, but its not big enough to really gather all that stuff that wants to come onto it to die.

The one I have now- I'd scrounged a 1/4" thick steel plate for the top of it.
It's plenty sturdy for the presses, and for little things like a separate powder measure and a trimmer,
I drill and tap 1/4-20 holes to mount them.

[Petrol & Powder]

I used "T" nuts to mount some equipment years ago but ended up making a removable section with multiple "plugs". The lessor used devices are mounted to the spare "plugs" and slid into the bench as needed. That has worked well for items such as case trimmers, lubersizers, etc. that don't need to take up bench space all the time.
The primary items like presses are permanently bolted down.

The depth of the bench top is somewhat dependent on whether you are sitting or standing. I can tolerate a little bit more distance to the back wall if I'm standing but 24" is about the norm.

Bolt the bench to the wall, bolt the bench to the wall - seriously.
I use a ledger board screwed to the wall studs with carriage bolts inserted from the back so that the threaded portion extends out. The bench has a corresponding board with corresponding holes so the bench can be slid over the carriage bolts and secured with large washers and nuts. That provides a rock solid bench that can still be removed if needed. Securing the bench to the wall makes ALL the difference in the world. For years I tried to make strong, stand-alone benches and I now wish I had just bolted them to the wall.

If you mount cabinets on the wall over the bench, remember they will reduce useful height over the bench and they will shade the bench top. plan accordingly. I like shelves over the bench but you have to plan that a bit.

Lighting is key. When I built my current set up, I used halogen lights because they were readily available at the time. If I was starting over today I would probably use LEDs. The halogen lights make very bright white light that is nice to work in. They also make a lot of heat, which is a plus in the winter, not so much in the summer.

Install long power strips along the back wall a few inches above the bench top. Calculate the number of outlets you need and then double it ! (I'm not kidding!)

I have separate benches for reloading and cleaning/working on guns. The reloading bench top is cabinet grade plywood, well sanded, stained and sealed with polyurethane. It is a nice surface to work on and easy to clean.
The gun cleaning bench top is lower grade of stained plywood with a linseed oil finish. It is intentionally cheaper because it gets beat up and exposed to solvents, oils, grease, etc. That system works very well. Every now and then I put another coat of linseed oil down.

Make sure the bench top has a little bit of overhang so that there is a small lip. That makes mounting presses easier. Mine has a 1" overhang and that works well with a Dillon 550 and other presses. It gives you enough room to get nuts and washers in place without being so long that it would flex. Speaking of washers, a section of 3/4" angle iron with holes drilled in the appropriate places will spread the load out better under the top than individual round washers.

When bolting presses down, use nuts and bolts with machine threads as much as possible and avoid using lag bolts.

When building the legs and frame for the bench, use carriage bolts, nuts and washers to attach the legs. Use diagonal braces on the legs. Glue and screw the top frame together and use long deck screws to secure the joints.

Good Luck !

[country gent]

My new work bench is almost done. I gave the bottom side legs and feet the last coat of boiled linseed oil today. It is 35" wide, 99" long and 35" tall. its wider than some benches but along the back will be my gerstner journey man base and top box, My Dads gerstner apprentice box and base, and my Grandfathers gerstner journey mans base and top. Mine are walnut dads and granddads are oak. You want some bench under them since the older ones don't have drawer stops in them. So these take up some of the extra width also. Bench top is 3 1/2" thick with 5 2 x 7 1/2 stiffening rail that also form the leg mounts. No screws nails or metal in this bench. This is a work bench for in the new shop not a reloading bench but the idea is the same. and a solid bench is important.

[country gent]

On my reloading bench I made quick mounts up that work nice, Base is a piece of 1/3" X 6" cut 8" long. 4 1/4 20 holes tapped 3/4" in from each side. 2 pieces of 1/4 x 1 flat stock with matching clearance holes 3/4" from outside edge. 2 pieces of 1/3" x 1 1/2 flat stock cut same length and same hole patter countersunk 3/4" from outside edge. This makes a quick release clamping mount that can be inset into bench top if desired. Insert is 1/4" X 6" flat stock that equipment is bolted to. this slides in screws tightened and its solidly clamped in place. I have 3 of these on my loading bench and they work great. the bases are inset into bench top bolted and epoxied in place.

A solid vibration rock free bench makes big difference in how scales and powder measures perform. The longer a bench gets the stronger it need to be to resist this. Drawers are nice especially if you can make them yourself and size to what you need. I prefer drawers to shelves as they pull out giving easier access than shelves do.

[Shawlerbrook]

With 24’ you could always skip the cabinets under the presses and just use recessed shelves. Looks like you will have a nice, roomy workshop.

[Shopdog]

All I'm gonna say is,doors on the stowage units keeps the contents way more dust free. Cleanup is,wipe the doors down and done. Stay away from paneled,fancy doors too... slick,no moulding,plain doors are the easiest to wipe off. Shooting some paint or clear coat makes them even easier to wipe off.

Oh,and yes the "top" needs to hang over the face frame a bit to clear the press linkage.

[Green Frog]

My bench wasn’t built, it kind of “happened” as my father and I added more stuff over about 20 years. The main bench started life as a drafting table my father and uncle built to go along with the blueprint table they were using at the time. It is way too deep and reaching across to the back is a chore at times. Also, a window impinges on one back corner, good for ventilation and light by day, but limiting wall cabinet potential. We did set the table so we can work down one side (toward the window) so the extra depth comes in good there. Across the front we have (l to r) a TruLine Jr, a Bair 12 ga shot shell loader, a RCBS Jr, and a 450 Lubri-sizer. With the passing of both of my parents over the last 3 years, I’ve fallen heir to the house and the mess that is the reloading bench. I plan to remove the little-used Bair, and perhaps replace it with my Lyman All American, then probably replace the RCBS Jr with my recently acquired Herter’s Super U. I may be able to clear access to the third side and mount my MEC 650 Jr press in 20 ga.

A couple of comments directed at the OP’s questions... I have and like open space under this bench and the work bench where I do my casting. I often sit on a bar-type stool while working and like a place for my knees to go. Depending on height, a shelf or rail for my feet seems to work well. I would consider an ankle height shelf upon which I could put shelves or drawer type cabinets, appropriately set back from the front of the shelf to leave leg room. Also, I would emphasize stability, whether from bolting to the wall, extensive bracing, or whatever. That is a vital feature of a good loading bench.

Regards,
Froggie

[44magLeo]

If your 24 foot bench is supported every 4 to 6 feet with a set if legs. You can use cabinets with rollers on them. If your working at something where you want to set and your legs go under the bench top you can roll out the cabinet. Do to work, roll the cabinet back in place after.
I prefer the 24 inch depth myself with shelves or cabinets above the bench not more than 12 inches deep.
The same underneath where I do most of the work.
Other areas under the bench the shelves or cabinets can be deeper, out to around 18 to 20 inches.
Even in these areas I can still stand to work.
Bolting to the wall is a good idea. If you can't A good solid shelf underneath to stack you lead ingots works to stabilize your bench. No lead ingots you can stack bullet boxes, dies sets, most anything that can add weight.
Leo

[GregLaROCHE]

An over hang is always useful to clamp on things like powder measures or or C clamps to hold something temporary.

My bench is an L made up of a sturdy steel framed table where my presses are bolted down and a solid counter top at 90*. I spend most of my time in that corner. It makes getting to things easier and faster than being in the middle of a long bench. Think about that when planning where to set up your tools.

[n10sivern]

I kind of like the idea of rolling cabinets. Just hate the idea of dirt collecting under them. I will be bolting/screwing the frame to the wall. However, the shed is elevated off the ground with a wood floor that isn’t perfectly level. Has anybody used these before? Rated at 500 pounds each. I thought about 4x4 legs with these on them. Any suggestions?

249386

[kmw1954]

Regardless of all the fancy bells and whistles or fancy bench tops in my opinion it is much more important to establish the correct bench height for you and your normal work habit. Be it as a standing position or a sitting position or a combination of both. None of us are the same height, I'm only 5'7" and someone taller would find my bench uncomfortable after a while. Otherwise your bench is only limited by your imagination and budget.

[country gent]

I have seen those and used similar They work should work. A simple set can be made and if your using 4 x 4 legs then it wouldn't be hard. A piece of 3/4" ready rod s plate or pipe flange ( I believe a 1/2" wall flange could be drilled to 3/4 10) a nut and plate for bottom of legs. Dill hole into bottom center of leg the depth of your threaded rod. attach plate with 4 flat head screws. Attach flange to ready rod and pin. Spin nut down to flange and slide in legs holes. this makes a good leveling foot. If a bigger pad is desired use a bigger flange with a pipe bushing in it. Remember to allow for the length of the leveling feet in the length of the legs.

[Blindshooter]

Regardless of all the fancy bells and whistles or fancy bench tops in my opinion it is much more important to establish the correct bench height for you and your normal work habit. Be it as a standing position or a sitting position or a combination of both. None of us are the same height, I'm only 5'7" and someone taller would find my bench uncomfortable after a while. Otherwise your bench is only limited by your imagination and budget.

I have 3 different height benches all with one plug and socket system built in. My spine is not so good and the right working height makes a huge difference. I've converted my large rolling tool box and chest to reloading storage and tools for working on guns. The deeper the bench the more I'm able to hide stuff from myself, the two 24 inch tops are much more practical than the one 36. It started out in the back of my dads garage, metal topped for greasy truck and tractor work. I clean guns on it now when I can see the top of it....

[onelight]

I kind of like the idea of rolling cabinets. Just hate the idea of dirt collecting under them. I will be bolting/screwing the frame to the wall. However, the shed is elevated off the ground with a wood floor that isn’t perfectly level. Has anybody used these before? Rated at 500 pounds each. I thought about 4x4 legs with these on them. Any suggestions?

249386

Not sure I understand the advantage of adjustable feet when it will be attached to the wall . It would seem you could mount the back side to the wall level right to left and cut the front legs to length to level front to back.
But I may be missing something.

[Greg S]

YoU will either want to round the end of the bench by the door or make in alittle shorter.

[Petrol & Powder]

YoU will either want to round the end of the bench by the door or make in alittle shorter.

Agreed and he may want to do both.

As for the adjustable legs, with the bench bolted to the wall I so no value in having adjustable legs. If the shed isn't level - level it.
If the shed is level but the floor isn't - build the bench so that the bench will be level. You're never going to adjust it after you build it.

[n10sivern]

Not sure I understand the advantage of adjustable feet when it will be attached to the wall . It would seem you could mount the back side to the wall level right to left and cut the front legs to length to level front to back.
But I may be missing something.

The floor frame is 24” on centers. I have reinforced the floor with 3/4” plywood but there is still some flex in between the beams. I wanted adjustable to relevel the bench if the floor starts sagging some from the weight of the bench.

[n10sivern]

Agreed and he may want to do both.

As for the adjustable legs, with the bench bolted to the wall I so no value in having adjustable legs. If the shed isn't level - level it.
If the shed is level but the floor isn't - build the bench so that the bench will be level. You're never going to adjust it after you build it.

If the floor sags between the beams, I could adjust the bench. Unfortunately, the shed is as level as it’s going to get. We spent 2 days putting floor jacks in at certain places trying to make it perfectly level and the shed didn’t want to cooperate. This is a 30 year old shed frame on 3 6x6 runners that was moved from level ground to this location about 25 years ago. The picture below was taken about 2 months ago. I took the shed down to the frame and rebuilt it with metal siding, insulation, rewired it, etc.

249401

[Petrol & Powder]

If the footprint of the legs ends up being located in between joists and you're worried about the plywood sagging - cut out a section of floor and add joists. If the floor is thin, you could just add another layer of plywood (probably too expensive). Before you get too involved, I would check to see where the bottom of the legs will land on the floor; you may get lucky and have them on or very near, a joist.
I don't think you're going to be adjusting those legs after you build the bench and the picture of those adjusters didn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling. Those adjusters look like an unnecessary expense and I don't like the design. I think you'll be adding weakness not adjustment.

[n10sivern]

That’s not the problem. The shed was designed poorly. The edge of long sides of the shed are not supported. They will sag under the weight over time. I plan to pour a footer and cinder block up for supports but I can only do so much at a time. I’m the picture you can see where the supports are for the shed. The previous floor had some sag. I’ve already put a second layer of 3/4” plywood over it and screwed it down to support it. However, it’s plywood and over time it’ll sag too.

249403

[Petrol & Powder]

So your plan is to just keep compensating for the inevitable failure ?

[n10sivern]

So your plan is to just keep compensating for the inevitable failure ?

Once I put a footer and blocks down it’ll support the edge. Failure is not inevitable.

[kmw1954]

Up here in Wisconsin I have seen farm sheds built like that and the main joists were actually skids so that it could be chained to a tractor and moved around. Many were used as tool sheds, chicken coops and pig farrows.

Maybe you can use 2X6 and frame the perimeter and then cut 2X6 and add them between the joists at 90* angle, https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-LUS-ZMAX-Galvanized-Face-Mount-Joist-Hanger-for-2x6-LUS26Z/100375105

Being in Ms., my bigger concern would be keeping the underside of that shed well ventilated so it stays dry from the humidity.

[Petrol & Powder]

Once I put a footer and blocks down it’ll support the edge. Failure is not inevitable.

Then I would recommend you do that before you start building benches, adding joists, etc.

[fredj338]

I bought cheap kitchen cabinets & installed a double wide 2X12 top. My presses are mounted on strong mounts or a 4x6 flat to get them up off the bench & out far enough for everything to work & access the drawers.

[GONRA]

Sounds like n10sivern is gonna have one hellava reloading Bench! (Hope yer gonna take time to GLUE all the joints!)
Rigidity is the name of the game here. Read on...

GONRA suggests you MAKE SURE to have plenty daylite under each future bench top tool location!!!
Yer gonna need it for STORAGE or ACCESS! (Probably BOTH!)

Since its such a LARGE bench, consider spreading glue all over a SELECTED bench top area,
laying the largest possible sheet of THICK SMOOTH FACE particle board on top.
Drill THROUGH bolt holes (usually 3/8 inch) and use machine bolts / nuts / washers to attach tools.

Some future lighter tools will then be easily mounted with 3/8 lag screws into that pyle of lumber......

Admittedly - we're discussing a "rough 'n tumble" SMOOTH FACE, RIGID verk bench here.
NOT a real "Beautiful (perfect) Carpentry Exercise"!

[WardT]

If your shelves are too deep you will " lose " things.

[W.R.Buchanan]

My suggestion would be to build the Bench just like you'd do a Kitchen Counter. I'd find some used or cheap Kitchen Cabinets and use a Formica Covered Counter Top.

I personally don't really like presses directly mounted to the bench. My Rockchucker is, but the rest are mounted to Aluminum plates and can be clamped to the bench with C Clamps when in use and stored covered off the bench. In your case with 24 feet available, I would consider bolting to the bench but you'll also have enough space to mount them to plates or chunks of Plywood so you can store them inside the cabinets.
Nobody can use all of his presses all the time. As a result they sit idle for periods of time and collect dust and dirt. Dust and dirt are the main enemies of machinery. Keeping them inside a cabinet covered with a Plastic Trash Bag is the best way to keep your tools nice forever. Unless your shed is air tight, dirt will get in, and it will find your machines.

The advantage of using a Formica Counter Top is that nothing sticks to the formica. It can be cleaned with soapy water for dirt or Acetone or any other solvent for greasy stuff. It is available in many colors and the Butcher Block wood grain style lends itself well to work benches. Also they usually have a raised and rolled front edge which prevents things like tools, bullets and other round stuff from rolling off the front, and they usually come with a Back Splash already built in as well. All the benches in my Machine Shop are covered with Formica and have been in service now for 30+ years.

If the counter top is not fully supported by cabinets full length then using 2 2x12's under it will make a rock solid bench.

Cabinets can be spaced as needed to support the counter top and then leave spaces between them for your leg access as needed.

In any event you really need to sketch up some ideas you have, and think it out long and hard. If you are going to all the trouble of building this thing,,, It kind of needs to be right. Just building stuff on the fly is for amateurs and seldom comes out nice.

My .02

Randy

[David2011]

Lots of good contributions already; this is just what has worked for me.

I sit at the single stage presses and stand at the progressives. The single stage bench is as low as I could make it and not hit my knees on the framing. I think the top is 32” above the floor. The progressive bench top is 42”; the same as a standard cabinet top plus the height of a strong mount.

The single stage bench has threaded brass inserts in the top and all of the tools are mounted on aircraft ply or steel plates. All of the plates have the same hole pattern so any tool can be mounted at any position to adjust for what’s being done at the moment. Socket head capscrews (1/4”) are used to hold the plates down so reconfiguring is fast and easy. Only presses are on steel plates; the ply is plenty strong for everything else.

All of my benches are 24” deep. You could go 30” but would probably find that it would only increase clutter.

Depending on how much work you want to put into the bench you might like the bench that Jeremy Schmidt built. http://jerswoodshop.com/my-massive-concrete-workbench/ I’m building one for my new shop but skipping the concrete top. I build RC airplanes and have a fairly complete collection of tools so the 45 drawers will be helpful.