Bullet creep 38 Spl+P loads

[Hi-Speed]

Never had an issue with any cylinder stoppage due to excessive bullet creep in my S&W J frame Airweights (all +P rated). However, after firing four 158 gr LSWCHP 38 Spl +P Rem FBI loadings, the fifth unfired round exhibited a little bullet creep. Even my 38 Spl +P 158 gr LSWC reloads (5.2 grs Unique) exhibit bullet creep from the unfired fifth round.

I never had a malfunction due to bullet creep but I was surprised to see some bullet pull even with Rem FBI factory loadings in my Airweight J frames. Needless to say, I used a heavy crimp (one full turn in my Lee FCD, as opposed to my usual 3/4 turn) on my latest 158 gr LSWC +P reloads, they now look like Buffalo Bore heavy crimps! Factory and reload 125 gr 38 Spl +P JHPs never exhibit any creep, they measure the same length before and after.

Pls share your experiences regarding bullet creep with 38 Spl +P 158 gr lead loadings in your Airweights.

[rbuck351]

My wifes Ruger LCR will lock the cyl after two or three shots using a 150gr lswc with +P handloads. I don't crimp 38s real heavy. I switched to a 121gr lswc std pressure load and that fixed things. She doesn't like the +P heavy bullet loads so I didn't bother trying heavy crimps.

[Hi-Speed]

I’ll most likely reserve my remaining Win/Fed/Rem +P FBI loads for my Ruger SP101, and use 125 gr 38 Spl +P JHPs out of my J frame Airweights.

...or stick with standard velocity 38 Spl 158 gr SWC or RNL in the Airweights.

[Walks]

I have a Colt Cobra, use 4.5grs of Unique under a Lyman #358477 (154gr) seat and roll crimp using a 1960's set of Lyman All American Dies.
Shoot about 18-24rds a year. Never have a bullet jump crimp. But I trim the brass for my plus P loads and Mag loads. So I'll have a consistent crimp. Have a old S&W M38, have never had a round jump crimp in that revolver either.

When I had a Freedom Arms .454Casull I used to use a Good Roll Crimp when I seated the bullet and a Taper Crimp afterward too.

[Hi-Speed]

I have a Colt Cobra, use 4.5grs of Unique under a Lyman #358477 (154gr) seat and roll crimp using a 1960's set of Lyman All American Dies.
Shoot about 18-24rds a year. Never have a bullet jump crimp. But I trim the brass for my plus P loads and Mag loads. So I'll have a consistent crimp. Have a old S&W M38, have never had a round jump crimp in that revolver either.

When I had a Freedom Arms .454Casull I used to use a Good Roll Crimp when I seated the bullet and a Taper Crimp afterward too.


None of my standard velocity 38 Special 158 gr loads jump crimp, factory or reload. Even my 200 gr rnl reloads over 2.7 grs BE don’t budge. I must emphasize that the slight creep with +P 158 gr loadings come nowhere close to jamming the cyclinder....but I’m still uncomfortable with it (slight jump that is). I’ve read elsewhere that slight bullet creep with Remington FBI loads is not uncommon in Airweight j frames.

[Petrol & Powder]

A lightweight snubnose is about as close to an impact bullet puller disguised as a handgun as one can get :smile: ! That last round in the cylinder has suffered four impacts from the previous four fired rounds before it gets its turn to be fired.
For ammunition carried for self-defense I would never recycle a cartridge that rode in a cylinder and was exposed to recoil but wasn't fired.

I've never had a problem with bullet creep with Remington R38S12 [the "FBI load] but that doesn't mean it is impossible.

For my handloads, A good roll crimp in the crimp groove has always held. I don't use a severe crimp, just enough to slightly turn the case mouth into the crimp groove. The Redding roll crimp dies work very well.

[30calflash]

Thanks for posting this, I've not fired many +p's thru mine but will check the last couple rounds in the cylinder when I get to the range.

It's my everyday carry load and I usually use what's been carried for practice when I use a +p load. 98% of the time it's standard loads in mine.

[siamese4570]

You might try polishing the expander a little bit to reduce it's diameter. Just chuck it in a drill and use some fine grit sandpaper. It'll give you a tighter grip on the boolit.
Siamese4570

[Froogal]

I tried some of those +P loads in my airweight. Rather painful to say the least. I went back to more mild loads. Just as effective as the +P at 10 to 20 yards.

[Outpost75]

Expander plug should be 0.002" less than bullet diameter.

Using the Lee Factory Crimp Die or Redding Profile Crimp die also helps.

[Hi-Speed]

A lightweight snubnose is about as close to an impact bullet puller disguised as a handgun as one can get :smile: ! That last round in the cylinder has suffered four impacts from the previous four fired rounds before it gets its turn to be fired.
For ammunition carried for self-defense I would never recycle a cartridge that rode in a cylinder and was exposed to recoil but wasn't fired.

I've never had a problem with bullet creep with Remington R38S12 [the "FBI load] but that doesn't mean it is impossible.

For my handloads, A good roll crimp in the crimp groove has always held. I don't use a severe crimp, just enough to slightly turn the case mouth into the crimp groove. The Redding roll crimp dies work very well.

Yes, I too never recycle my loads. Check your fifth round after firing the first four in your J frame Airweight, and you’ll notice a very slight creep when measured. Never happened in my 357 Magnums (Ruger B/H) or old 38 Spl K frames - of course all heavy firearms compared to the j frame.

Buffalo Bore 38 Spl 158 gr LSWCHP (std pressure) rounds do not budge one bit in the j frame.

[Petrol & Powder]

Yes, I too never recycle my loads. Check your fifth round after firing the first four in your J frame Airweight, and you’ll notice a very slight creep when measured. Never happened in my 357 Magnums (Ruger B/H) or old 38 Spl K frames - of course all heavy firearms compared to the j frame.

Buffalo Bore 38 Spl 158 gr LSWCHP (std pressure) rounds do not budge one bit in the j frame.

It really isn't something I worry about but it is something to be aware of.

Carry ammo probably shouldn't be repeatedly subjected to recoil and then left in the cylinder for future use.

[Hi-Speed]

It really isn't something I worry about but it is something to be aware of.

Carry ammo probably shouldn't be repeatedly subjected to recoil and then left in the cylinder for future use.

Spot on, agreed!

Enjoy the weekend

[country gent]

As Petrol and Powder stated the light weight snubbies recoil impulse is a great puller. I had a heavier J frame in stainless that was never an issue with that and even uncrimped wadcutter stayed in place. My airweights a few ounces lighter will occasionally move a bullet but not much and usually just from front of knurled crimp groove to back of it. My scandium titanium air lite is a different story at 12 ounces a round left in the cylinder for 3-4 firings will show a length change. Not enough to tie up the gun but its there.
One other thing to consider in thie is the semi autos can be the opposite with some ammos, I have measured rounds and chambered them several times to see a change in overall length when remeasured, so it goes either way

[Hi-Speed]

...my friend reminded me that his Airweight S&W 638 pulled new Federal LE 38 Spl +P FBI loading (38G) considerably, nearly jamming the cylinder (these were not recycled rounds). He said that the load wasn’t even crimped (perhaps they use some type of adhesive). He ended up crimping the remaining rounds in his Lee FCD.

[Petander]

Lee collet crimp die works wonders.

I shoot full power 500 S&W loads in a 4" gun using no-crimp-groove bullets. Lee collet crimper keeps my Hi Tek coated bullets from moving.

[Gunnut 45/454]

Yep a half turn more in the seating die to give a little more crimp will solve that problem! Why are you all scared to put enough crimp on your rounds. Easy problem to solve use enough crimp!

[DHDeal]

I've got a M60 in 357, and that little sucker is hilarious. First time I fired it many years back with Federal 125 jhp 357 ammo, I considered it a miniature donkey. Cute, but the kick was still nasty.

I use a Redding profile crimp die and the relatively heavy cast PC bullets (165 grain) stay put.

Did I say that it was a nasty little revolver? If I miss what I'm shooting at, I'll at least set it on fire.

[Outpost75]

+1 on the Redding Profile Crimp die. I use these in ALL calibers for my revolver ammo.

I prefer these over the Lee Factory Crimp Die.

[Hi-Speed]

I have a Redding 38 Spl profile crimp being delivered tomorrow.

[Petrol & Powder]

I have a couple of Dillon 550 toolheads set up to load 38 Special. The one set up for SWC bullets has Redding dies in it and is the one that gets used the most.
Like many, I have a collection of dies that includes several different manufacturers. The Redding profile crimp die is probably not much different than any other roll crimp, Redding just likes to use the label "profile crimp". However, the Redding dies are very good quality and are my top choice for dies.
Dies are one of those "buy it once" tools and when I can justify the cost, I'll select Redding.

The roll crimp created by a Redding "profile crimp" die is similar to just about any other roll crimp die. It turns the top of the case mouth into the crimp groove. The exact profile of that roll crimp may vary slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer but the process is similar.

In the FWIW category, Redding Dies are very high quality and are my top choice. RCBS is a close second.