frankford arsenal drop out spray?

[rufracer]

Ive started using this on all my new lee mold with good success, but Ive noticed that all my mold seem to be dropping a little on the small side. Has anybody else had this prob? Am I just putting it on too thick? What removes it?

[docone31]

All I do is hold a BIC lighter under the cavities.
I am not certain about the spray, however I bet it is adding thickness.
That makes small.
I bet acetone will remove it.

[anachronism]

Ive started using this on all my new lee mold with good success, but Ive noticed that all my mold seem to be dropping a little on the small side. Has anybody else had this prob? Am I just putting it on too thick? What removes it?

I had a couple of cans of the stuff. I must have put it on too thick too, because I was plagued by undersized bullets for a while, until I caught on. Brake cleaner removed it for me. I did find one use for it. I sprayed it on 38 wadcutters & let it dry before running them through the lubrisizer. It made the bullets purty, & stayed put. I also had no trouble with leading.

As far as mould release goes, I still think it's tough to beat smoking the cavities with wooden matches.

[Tom Herman]

I try not to spray it on thick. I use a mold that is slightly warm, and it dries quickly.
Too hot, and it will bubble or stipple.
I'm not entirely happy with the performance of the product. I have to shake the !&!%!#@! bullets loose most of the time. Once in a while, everything will be just right, and they will drop out of the molds easily.
Being the frugal person that I am, I'll probably try wood smoking the molds next time I cast.

Happy Shootin'! -Tom

[Heavy lead]

I've had mixed results with this. I have a couple of moulds that cast really big. I keep this on thick at all times, mostly a RCBS 475400 that without it casts close to 479, with it 477, much easier through the 476 sizer. I don't use it in my one Lee mould I use it drops perfect with nothing lubed but the alignment pins.

[billyb]

I do not use on my boolit molds, I use it on my ingot molds,my lee pots and the valve and valve stem. Bill

[Kraschenbirn]

+1 on using "Drop Out" on ingot moulds and to lubricate bottom-pour valve stems, otherwise, I've yet to find anything that beats a plain ol' kitchen match for smoking mould cavities.

Bill

[Calamity Jake]

Use it on the outside of steel molds, it keeps them from rusting.

[mold maker]

I have a Lee 6 cav mold that held the sprue puddle and the dropout solved the problem. Isn't it just graphite in a bonding agent.

[cajun shooter]

Tried it for the first time yesterday on RCBS cowboy mold. Worked great. It does say on the can" LIGHT COATING". It also says to use acetone or similar product for removing. The sprue plate worked smooth and easy with the mold side sprayed. It stands to reason that if you use a heavy coating you will close the diameter of the mold. I do agree that to smoke a mold a kitchen match is hardb to beat and has been the process that I use. I ordered a new RCBS Pro- Melt and decided to try a can.

[dukers65]

what would be the difference between franfort arsenal coating and some of the cooking sprays they sell at grocery stores.

[dakotashooter2]

Thanks Bill... I never though of that.

I used it on a couple vent lines that I cut a bit too deep.

[shotman]

dukers55 cooking spray is only good to about 500o so it would burn off. As the can says LIGHTcoating I use on a clean pot molds and ingot molds. I coat a warm [hot to touch] mold hold can about 8in back and make 2 fast passes. If you dont get it right clean and redo. Once you have the stroke right it is easy. rick

[OLPDon]

I have been using it on all my molds and find it works well. After a light spray coating I burnish the Mold ie take a wooden stick such as a BarBQ squir and rub the coating smooth. As i spray both mold cavity and face of the mold I have not noticed any differance with size as to effect the shooting aspect of the boolit. Just make sure you burnish the mold after spraying complet inner face of the mold.
Don
PS I have about 95 or so moulds and all are treated this way.

[kir_kenix]

I've used it as well. It seems to work pretty well, and I use it on my Lee molds.

Most of my Lyman and RCBS molds get lubed up when i put them away, so I don't bother spraying them when i get them out, I just coat them with a match.

[vanilla_gorilla]

I finally got everything ready to run today, going to make my first boolits! Handles, mould, flux, fire, matches....where's the damn matches?!

I forgot I had ordered some of this stuff with my handles, but I found it in my dash to find some matches to smoke the mould with. Works great, I guess. I don't know if it's just my mould or the spray, but most of the boolits fell right out of the mould without a tap.

[DLCTEX]

I am going to try it to reduce the size of the bore riding portion of my Lee .311-170. It is currently producing .3015 in this area, causing a heavy drag on closing the bolt on my Marlin 30-30. If the boolit isn't crimped well it will pull out of the case upon extraction. I would like to reduce this at least .001. If the rifling in the area wears in the future the coating can be removed. Maybe cut the nose off a couple boolits and use them to keep the spray off the lands and grooves. DALE

[Hardcast416taylor]

I got a bottle of Rapine Mould Prep about 20 yrs. ago. Still have about 1/4 of it left. I use a Q-tip and SPARINGLY apply it to the mould and sprue plate. I`ve tried the spray coating from Midway, never really turned my crank for quality. I`ve heard people used to use the spray on their J-bullets before moly coating kits were made available. If you smoke your moulds, stay away from candles and about anything else except old fashioned wood kitchen matches to create the soot coating. Remember butane is a by-product of oil refining, you don`t need oily soot in a mould cavity.:castmine: