S&W model 29-2 sight in

[fifteenfifty]

I've got a new (to me) 29-2. I can't sight it in the way I'd like to shoot it. That is to say, at 25 yards I must do a 6 O'Clock hold to hit what I want to hit. The rear sight is bottomed. I don't prefer a 6 O'Clock hold. I'd much rather point of aim.

Now to my question. Is this expected for this revolver? 5 inches high seems rather a lot. I have no idea if the sights are original but they look appropriate and not muddled with.

Options? How hard would it be to get a rear sight insert of a different height? Or is a taller front sight easier (unlikely; I fear marring the revolver trying to hammer the pin out)...

-Brian

[ReloaderFred]

Are you by any chance shooting bullets heavier than 240 grains? That would help with evaluating your request. Most of the Model 29's I've shot were pretty much regulated for the standard 240 gr. Magnum load. Heavier bullets tend to shoot higher, and lighter bullets tend to shoot lower.

[Petrol & Powder]

What bullet weight are you shooting?

Opps, reloaderfred beat me to it.

[fifteenfifty]

Are you by any chance shooting bullets heavier than 240 grains? That would help with evaluating your request. Most of the Model 29's I've shot were pretty much regulated for the standard 240 gr. Magnum load. Heavier bullets tend to shoot higher, and lighter bullets tend to shoot lower.

I'm shooting Lyman 429421, which are supposed to be 245grn, though mine actually weigh about 253grn with lube. I'd hate to switch molds; this one makes such beautiful bullets. Though now I'm wondering if I should try a 210grn 429215 before messing with the sights.

[dogdoc]

I'm shooting Lyman 429421, which are supposed to be 245grn, though mine actually weigh about 253grn with lube. I'd hate to switch molds; this one makes such beautiful bullets. Though now I'm wondering if I should try a 210grn 429215 before messing with the sights.

Alter your load first. Drive that 250 Keith at a higher velocity unless you are already max. The higher velocity will print lower . Sometimes a lot . What load are you using?


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[Outpost75]

In my S&W Model 29-2 I use Accurate 43-230G which shoots to the sights bottomed out with any charge, mostly 7.2 grains of Bullseye, but also fine with heavier loads of 22 grs. of Alliant #2400 or 24grs. of IMR4227.

[Dpmsman]

I had a no dash 629 with the same problem. At 50yds it shot 2’ high with 240gr factory ammo and 16” high with factory 180’s. I took it to the local Smith and he told me there’s no fix. So it went down the road. I hope you have better luck then I did.

[sixshot]

That seems odd that the 180 gr slug would shoot that much higher than the 240 at 50 yds. Also odd that your smith would say there's no fix for that 629, isn't that a pinned front sight? If so it's a simple fix.

Dick

[Forrest r]

You should have the standard .146" sight blade on your pistol. They make/sell a .126" sight blade.

You need to lower your rear sight or raise your front sight .040" to achieve poa with that firearm/load combo.

Distance between sights ='s 7.25"
Amount high on target 5"
distance load tested 25yds or 900"

7.25" x (5"/900") ='s .040"

[fifteenfifty]

Alter your load first. Drive that 250 Keith at a higher velocity unless you are already max. The higher velocity will print lower . Sometimes a lot . What load are you using?


It's very mild (for 44mag) -- 11 gr of Herco. Even at that it chronos 1250 from this long barrel. I'll stuff some H110 and see what that does. I don't really enjoy wrist-thumping loads though.

[megasupermagnum]

I'm sure you would notice, but is there any chance this is a 10 5/8" barrel Silhouette model?

[roysha]

Midway has the .126 rear sight blade with screw for less than $9.00. Definitely, as Forrest r posted, that is the way to go.

[fifteenfifty]

I'm sure you would notice, but is there any chance this is a 10 5/8" barrel Silhouette model?

Nope. Barrel is 8 inches.

[fifteenfifty]

Midway has the .126 rear sight blade with screw for less than $9.00. Definitely, as Forrest r posted, that is the way to go.

Yes, I'll probably go this route. Though I'll still a) try some hotter loads and b) try some lighter bullets first. "Just to see".
Thanks everyone. I'll post the results when I have them.

-Brian

[megasupermagnum]

Yes, I'll probably go this route. Though I'll still a) try some hotter loads and b) try some lighter bullets first. "Just to see".
Thanks everyone. I'll post the results when I have them.

-Brian

Easier there. If you have a .146" tall front sight, and install a .126", it is going to shoot even higher, not lower.

[dogdoc]

Easier there. If you have a .146" tall front sight, and install a .126", it is going to shoot even higher, not lower.

I think they meant a lower rear sight as those are the standard rear sight sizes smith uses along with others. Light heavy bullet loads usually shoot high do to time the bullet is in the barrel as recoil raises the barrel. Old Elmer wrote this up years ago. I think he noted that the longer the barrel, the worse it gets


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[rintinglen]

A lower sight blade for the rear sight is another alternative. Or grind a little bit off the bottom of the rear sight.

[Drm50]

I shoot 29-2s. The red ramp fronts drive me crazy. My eyes can't handle them. Every S&W I own has front replaced with a Patridge blade. The front is pinned in ramp. A higher front is what you need. I've never got satisfaction out of changing rear blade. The Baughman ramps on 34s and 28s get polished from holsters and are not the best for clear definition of top of sight. I have a small collection of S&Ws and only have 3 with out blade fronts. The 34, a 25-5 and a NIB 29-2. The 25-5 is a later model with non replaceable front as is 34 or I would change them out.

I have a Ruger SBH 3screw that I got new in 1964. It has same problem and front sight is to short. It shoots fine at 100yds with hot 240gr loads. Now shooting 180s to get it to print at 40yds.

[6string]

I know your problem from exact same first hand experience.
Why hammer yourself and the gun with a heavy load, just to shoot paper?

I chose to shoot the Lyman 429348 WC 180 gr.
Light charges of Bullseye or Unique, and it will shoot to the same point of aim as a 240 gr. Full power load.

[Drm50]

I shoot same bullet as 6string with same type loads. As a matter of fact he the one who put me on to this bullet.
I shoot them in m24 44sp and 29-2s. I've not run out of adj on a S&W yet. All my shooter are 6"-6.5"-8 3/8. I don't know if this run out affects shorter barrels.

[Three44s]

A taller front sight is the best answer in my opinion.

With an 8” gun a partridge style.

Three44s

[44MAG#1]

While all responses are wonderful information. As cheap as it is and as easy as it is to do and can be done by the individual owning the said gun why not change out the rear blade to a lower one. The .126" should do it.

[Char-Gar]

The 6 o'clock hold is a target shooters sight picture with the black bull balanced on top of the front sight. A field shooter wants the bullet to slide over the top of the front sight.

Bullet weight as speed to affect the point of impact. Smth and Wesson sells lower rear sight blades or at least they did a few years ago when I bought one.

[W.R.Buchanan]

There is this place called "Brownell's" Which sells all kinds of Gun parts and tools and stuff. They also sell sights in different heights to correct this problem.

The alternative is to fool around with your load until it shoots to the sights. I recommend this first.

I have a S&W 696. I started with 190 SWC's at 600 fps and the gun shot way high 12" at 25 yards. I switched to a 240-260 gr 429421 hp or solid PC'd and upped the charge, (750 fps) and now the gun shoots to the sights at 25 yards. I have shot this gun alot at Cowboy Silhouette Shoots out to 200 meters and by holding about 3 feet high I can hit the Rams consistently off a rest. Pigs at 50 M are held dead on .

However, I didn't like the Sight Picture with the Dayglo Orange Ramp Type Front Sight, so I changed it to a Green Fiber Optic Front Sight that glows Lime Green in the direct sun and is much easier to pickup. I like this Front Sight much better and I got it from Brownell's for about $20. It was easy to install for me, or a Gunsmith could do it for a few $.

As a side note: I highly recommend that you get a set of X Frame Grips for your gun. (Last Pic) The S&W Grip Frame hits the web of your hand hard and with Magnum Loads it hits even harder. this gets old real fast. I could shoot 12 rounds of Magnums and I was done. That was in 1978 and these didn't exist yet, but they do now and they really work well. That extra 3/8" of padding on the grip makes all the difference in the world.

Randy

[Patrick L]

DRM50,

When I get home, if I remember I'll post a pic of a modification I made to my RR front sight, which effectively turned it into a patridge. I did this on two Smith and Wessons that had integrally forged ramp fronts.

I'm travelling now, so I'm just working off of a phone.