Long Term Storage of Firearms

[mikwat]

I recently got PCS orders overseas and can't take any of my firearms with me. Ideally I'd leave them with my family, but my Father is a prohibited person and I don't want to put him in a legal corner. I'm starting to think that I'll have to put them in a storage locker for the next three years. However, being the on the Florida Panhandle I can not guarantee that it will be a "cool dry place"

What are your long term storage tactics? Should I just bite the bullet and put everything in cosmoline? Would a gun sock and desiccant packs be enough? I've got a vacuum sealer, anyone ever vacuum seal a rifle? Any other suggestions or alternatives?

[osteodoc08]

Oh man. That’s a difficult position to be in. Any one you absolutely trust with your life and guns? Make sure you take out insurance on them. Wipe down with eezoox or one of the other rust preventative of choice and desiccant and golden rod. Handguns in a military can with desiccant. I guess you could vacuum pack with desiccant over one of the silicone gun socks but I’ve never done it.

Man, I don’t envy you right now.

[JBinMN]

Check with some of the "cadre" about what they have done in the past to solve the same issue. BY "cadre" I mean Sr. Enlisted NCOs and the like. It seems to me that one could store their firearms with the installations armorer IIRC, but I have been out of the Corps since '86 & just don't remember how some handled similar situations. IIRC< you could store them and they would give you a rep't for them & like a pawn ticket, get your ifirearms back when you returned. Or something along those lines. but like I said, just don't recall right now. Too many Budweisers has given me what I call, "Anhuesers"( not Alzheimers) & thus I CRS sometimes"
;)

Maybe some of the current military folks will stop in & help out. I just have old suggestions/possibilites & thought to mention those possibilities to try to help.

G'Luck! to ya, regardless!
:)

[Outpost75]

Break Free Collector is used for many museum collections, does a good job and is easy to remove. I would also invest in a Liberty safe large enough to hold everything, insure the contents, and find a secure location well inland and above the 100-year base flood elevation. Good luck.

[jdfoxinc]

MylarBagsdirect.com has heavy aluminized mylar gun storage bags for long guns.

If sealed between each one could be used for hand guns.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Over many years I have acquired an extensive accumulation (note the avoidance of the word "collection", which indicates that there was a purpose to it all....) and have found the necessity to put many of them into long term storage. Each, be it rifle, shotgun, or pistol, is carefully treated with a coat of good gun oil, being careful not to get it onto the wood, stock or grips. Special pains are taken to assure that the bore is clean before oil is applied to the bore so that it doesn't clean itself after storage and create green fouling. Once oiled, anti-rust paper from Brownell's is attached with new rubber bands. You can acquire bags of rubber bands cheaply at an office supply store. This paper comes in either long strips or squares. For a long gun I pass one strip over the muzzle and down one side, and a second strip around the butt plate if it is steel, and along either side as far as they will extend. I put a very small rubber band with a couple of twists around the muzzle just below the front sight to assure that the muzzle is covered, and a larger one around the stock just above the butt, and a third around the middle of the long gun to hold the strips in place. If it's a handgun, after the oiling, I wrap the entire pistol so that no metal remains exposed. Note: This paper has one treated side that is to be placed toward the metal. The paper is supposed to remain active in preventing rust for 7 - 10 years, consult the Brownell's catalog for specifics. It is printed with a date of manufacture, so if it's already 5 years old when you receive it, send it back! Next, I insert the gun into a metallic storage sheath/envelope, also from Brownell's. For years I used some heavy weight plastic bags, also from Brownell's, with very satisfactory results, but they don't sell them any more, and naturally the metallic bags cost more. They are pricey, and the last time I looked ran a bit over $5 each if purchased in quantity. Now I insert the oiled and papered gun into the metallic storage bag. I fold the long part of the bag around the long gun lengthwise, kind of hard to describe, but sort of a cigar wrap. Then I fold the butt end toward the muzzle and tape it closed with some package tape. Lastly, I put the gun, whether long gun or handgun, into it's own individual black plastic hard case. I used to get these for about $10 each in packs of six from a sporting goods distributor, but those days are gone. The last few I've purchased have been from a "mart" and ran about $25. They have the waffle-type foam padding in them, and there in lies the reason for this method of storage. If you just put the oiled gun into the case without the bag the foam will absorb the oil off the metal reducing it's level of protection, and the oil will begin to degrade the foam and sometimes cause it to adhere to the gun. So...don't skip any steps if you use this method. Last thing, put a label on the case so you know what's in it, because the corrosion-free atmosphere inside the case and inside the bag will be lost if you open it to find out what's in it. I had a large pile of guns treated as described in a mini-storage unit for several years, hot and humid in the summer, cold and damp in the winter, and everything survived in great shape. The only way that I might consider modifying this system is to obtain some of the desiccant rods that the military puts in bores for long term storage, and placing a rod in the bore of long guns rather than oiling them. It seems to have worked quite well in some M1 Garands I acquired from the old DCM (before CMP), but one would probably have to not use oil as it might soak them up and lessen their effectiveness. I don' know, and I don't know of a source for them. If you don't want to use the system I've described, then cosmolene or RIG Gun Grease is an option, but this has worked well for me. Good luck at your PCS.

[mikwat]

Oh man. That’s a difficult position to be in. Any one you absolutely trust with your life and guns? Make sure you take out insurance on them. Wipe down with eezoox or one of the other rust preventative of choice and desiccant and golden rod. Handguns in a military can with desiccant. I guess you could vacuum pack with desiccant over one of the silicone gun socks but I’ve never done it.

Man, I don’t envy you right now.

No one that I won't be moving in the next few years that I can think of.

[mikwat]

Check with some of the "cadre" about what they have done in the past to solve the same issue. BY "cadre" I mean Sr. Enlisted NCOs and the like. It seems to me that one could store their firearms with the installations armorer IIRC
:)

Those folks are few and far between around here. I only know one CPO here, and I've been in longer than he has. As far as armories, my current base doesn't have one and I can't even bring them to Japan. Besides, I've got an "accumulation" just like a lot of you guys probably do.

[jsizemore]

I'd look at VCI paper and/or VCI poly bags. Worked on the ship and S&W pistols/handguns used to be wrapped in it while in it's cardboard box sitting in a store room. Some friends went to clean the wife's family homeplace when her father died. They found a model 36 from '68 in the attic in it's box wrapped in VCI paper stuffed between the attic opening and the insulation. Not a speck of rust when they opened the box in '96.

[rancher1913]

if the guns were in a quality safe that only you had the combo to, would that still be a no no at your parents house.

[Love Life]

I used cosmoline. Cosmoline remover makes cleanup pretty easy. Do not store guns in the armory. The armorers will play with them.

[snowwolfe]

I would remove all wood grips or stocks and cover all metal with a good rust preventative grease. I would not vacuum seal any of them because you can lock in moisture. You can buy treated paper to wrap them in. If the collection is valuable enough make sure you visit the guns when you return to the states on leave and reinspect each one.

[samari46]

I've used Rig gun grease in the barrels of rifles when I enlisted in the Navy over 50 years ago. And on all metal surfaces with the bareled actions removed from the stocks. Wrapped them with Saran wrap and duct taped each one. No safe so into the closet they went. I did have some leave every so often like 2 times in close to 3 1/2 years so checked them and rewrapped them. Harbor freight sells cheap lockable boxes which you can store the handguns. Don't know about boxes or plastic gun cases from them. When I was discharged I got paid for close to 40 days leave time. I hope you do find a workable solution. Frank

[missionary5155]

Good morning
Since 1985 we have been storing our firearms in a 1/2 plywood box lined with a large sheet of construction plastic to form a bag. On the bottom was placed a thick piece of carpet as a pad. Box is on wheels and measures 2 feet wide, 3 feet tall and 6 feet long.
With stocks removed all the metal is oiled with 10w30 motor oil then wrapped as snugly as possible with wax paper wrapped around so all metal is enclosed. This is then taped with masking tape. Wrapped metal is carefully placed within the plastic to be none moving and fill space voids. Each item is marked on the masking tape with black marker what is inside the wrap.
A plastic bag is laid over the top layer of the stack of wrapped metal with a 2 pound cloth bag of moisture absorber on top. The plastic liner is then gathered and all the air sucked out with a vacume. Plastic liner is then sealed at the gathered top.
A 1/2 in plywood sheet is then screwed on top.
So far we have not had any rust issues. This unit is stored in a none heated basement of an occupied old house.
Box gets opened every 2 years when we are up north there. Some wrapped items get removed for use then replaced before we return here in Peru. Origonally we were down here 3-4 years but we now are on the 2 year cycle.
Mike in Peru

[M-Tecs]

I am a huge fan of Eezox but for long term storage Rig Gun Grease VCI paper and a VCI poly bag is as good as it gets. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1180385501/

[Three44s]

I am not convinced that vacuum sealing is a bad idea, especially if one includes sufficient desiccant material (very dry and enough of it) along with a sufficient protective coating.

Three44s

[Petrol & Powder]

As for Outpost75's advice about finding a location in Florida that's outside of the 100 year flood zone, I think that's located somewhere in northwest Georgia :p (just kidding)

I'm a fan of RIG. It's never let me down. The whole purpose of using grease or oil is to prevent water and oxygen from reaching the surface of the metal. Just about anything that will stay in place and not migrate or evaporate, will work. Greases work better than oils over the long run. The item must be clean, dry and rust free to start with.

As for a storage location, that's a bit tougher. Outdoor storage lockers (those sheet metal units built on a concrete slab) are notorious targets of theft. Some facilities are better secured than others. Because of the threat of weather and theft problems, I might be inclined to use one of the storage facilities located in a building and if it has a second floor, that would be my choice over a ground floor unit. At the very least I would get the items a few feet off the floor.

I like Mike in Peru's idea of a wooden crate. Not only is it a good storage device but it may be less susceptible to theft. It doesn't look "gun" like. Wood is good material for that container. It breaths a little bit, it acts as an insulator, moderates temperature swings inside the box and it doesn't cost a lot. I also like the idea of removing wooden stocks from actions. I might even mark the outside of the crates with labels such as "photo albums, research papers, books, etc" and include a fake "inventory" sheet on the outside. You know, things that no one would ever steal.

The best location is one staffed by honest people. If we're talking about guns that have no sentimental value, a good storage locker and some insurance will suffice. If we're talking about irreplaceable guns that have sentimental value or very high collector value, I would want them in the custody of a trusted person or persons. That way they could be moved in case of threat of natural disaster and a theft would be immediately reported. (A theft at a remote storage unit could go undetected for years).

I would prefer leaving them with a trusted friend over placing them in a storage locker.

And one last piece of information: take at least three good quality photographs of each gun. One overall photo that depicts the entire gun. one close up that clearly shows the serial number and one close up that shows the make and model markings. Take additional photos of unique identifying features (marks, scopes, spare mags, etc.). Store those digital images on something secure like a CD or a USB drive. Give that media to a trusted person or place it in a separate secure storage location such as a safe deposit box at a bank.

Just my $0.02 worth.

[Rich/WIS]

On two tours in Germany I stored mine in the Brownells bags using their VCI paper. Well greased inside and out with RIG they survived three years of storage with no problems, stored in my parents attic.

[T_McD]

How many are actually worth keeping, especially given the storage fees? I would sell everything you could.

[nicholst55]

Do what the Army does. Buy VCI Barrier Paper and make storage bags. Wipe the guns down, then vacuum seal them in the VCI bags. They should be good for several years that way. I deal with these nearly every day, and they DO work.

Alternately, wipe them down with Fluid Film Lubricant and put them in Brownells long term storage bags.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PWZ0XNM/?coliid=I2MU62E4FLR36Y&colid=1IQVX5IB4H1VA&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

[Handloader109]

If handguns, I would buy the VCI paper, and once wrapped, put in a small dessicant pack and VACUUM SEAL. You aren't going to trap enough moisture as there is practically zero air in the bag. Then place in your box. Further protection, place in a plastic gun box. If box is underwater, the vacuum bag will protect the handgun.
I DO like the idea of a wooden crate also.
BTW, Check with a few of the gunstores, they would most probably take a crate of whatever size you needed and store for a reasonable price. And pick one 10 miles inland that has been operational for a decade..... Get some insurance on them. Take plenty of pictures and if you do a crate, screw it shut and tape the seams well with a good duct tape.

Or rent a small storage building, again, inland, and put that crate in it. BTW, being in FL, I'd probably put that crate on a 2x4 stand that is as high as you can get it inside the storage building. If building survives and a 2 ft surge, you want it 3 ft off the ground. Just say'n. And prepay for your length of tour plus a couple of months. (You might not get back to FL directly) OH, you might find a storage building with interior humidity controls, that would be worth it if you have long guns. BTW, cheap vacuum food sealer is cheap....

[David2011]

As an IT professional I a mostly agree with Petrol and Powder but I don’t advise storing data on a USB drive. I’ve had to give bad news to too many people that thought USB drives were a good way to store data. CDs or DVDs are much more reliable but still keep at least two copies in separate locations.

[Petrol & Powder]

As an IT professional I a mostly agree with Petrol and Powder but I don’t advise storing data on a USB drive. I’ve had to give bad news to too many people that thought USB drives were a good way to store data. CDs or DVDs are much more reliable but still keep at least two copies in separate locations.

As a non-IT person I will say listen to David2011 because I know almost nothing about computers !

I just learned something about USB drives and CD's - Thank You.

[clintsfolly]

A few have suggested Rig protective grease. My story is my brother is a die maker and was helping clean out a die storage building. They found twenty year old dies that had no rust on them and could have been run if needed!all the die where covered with Rig.

[sghart3578]

I have been there myself. My druggie brother stole my guns from my parent's house on my first overseas tour.

My advice is to sell everything. In my situation I ended up extending a few times then re-upping. I was gone a lot longer than I had anticipated. In essence I took an 8 year break from guns and reloading.

Then, when I separated, I was knocking around a lot. So I should have just sold my stuff ahead of time. At least I could have stuck the money in the bank.


Steve in N CA

[Petrol & Powder]

Selling the guns is an option if the OP wishes to take that path AND has the time to sell them before he ships out.

However, if one has limited time you must pick a path: Either sell the guns or store the guns.
If you take the storage path: A storage location needs to be found and secured, the guns need to be photographed, storage bags/cases etc. need to be acquired, preservative materials need to be acquired, the guns need to be cleaned, preserved and placed in containers and the guns need to be transported and placed in the storage location. All of that takes time.

If you take the selling route: the guns need to be advertised, you need to meet with buyers and the sales need to be made. If you don't get all of the guns sold before you must ship out, now you have a problem.

If the guns are not sentimental and you're not attached to them, selling makes a lot of sense but you need time to accomplish that. Consignment is a possibility but you need a trusted seller.

[762 shooter]

RIG solved my short term and long term rust problem.

762