Help with PID.

[shootinfox2]

Anyone have any idea why a PID would turn off power to a melting pot. I raised the temp to clear a frozen pour spout. Looked back about two minutes later and the temp os decreasing at about 5 degrees a minute. Power is still on and the display is functioning.

Any help would be appreciated.

[HATCH]

Could be a couple of different things.

Verify output voltage is 110vac-120vac (plug a lamp into the outlet)

Yes ? - bad heating element in pot
No - next step

Get a volt meter.
Measure that the SSR has 3-32 vdc on the control input.

No - improper setting on PID or if was working then failed PID
Yes - next step

Verify voltage at SSR Term # 1 (line side) is 110vac-120vac

No - check fuse if you have one or possible broken wire
Yes - next step

Verify voltage at SSR term # 2 (load side) is 110vac - 120vac

No - faulty SSR - replace and retest
Yes - next step

Plug lamp into outlet and verify it works

Yes - bad heating element on pot or faulty pot side wiring
No - faulty output plug/wiring

That's a quick check list.

[shootinfox2]

Thanks Hatch. Will look into it. Shut it down for lunch, went back out in the shop and everything is working. .?????

[slim1836]

Thanks Hatch. Will look into it. Shut it down for lunch, went back out in the shop and everything is working. .?????

Operator error?:confused:

Slim

[Smoke4320]

Tear in the space time continuum.. Sounds like a loose wire/ connection.
I would be very leary of walking away from that plugged up

[shootinfox2]

I disassembled the whole thing to clear the spout freeze. A mystery metal had locked the pour spout solid. Had to use a torch to melt it out. Cleaned everything while I had it apart. Reassembled it all and it works fine. Could have been a loose wire, but the gremlin is gone for now. I never leave equipment alone while in use. Learned that lesson long ago.
Fox

[40-82 hiker]

Does your PID have a variable defining a maximum temp, beyond which it shuts off the electricity to the pot? Just curious if that could be the issue...

[shootinfox2]

Don’t know. It is the stock PID from Magma that came with the Master Caster. Could be.

[jsizemore]

I've got a jld612 (1 of 3 PID's I use) that does a temp nose dive after it comes off auto tune. I wasn't happy with the overshoot and under after auto tune. Tried setting PID parameters by hand and said heck with it. Use it as a simple thermostat. Less cycling and wear and tear on SSR. Only two cycles on and off while Hi-Tek baking. Temp goes from 388-400. Best bond yet bullet to coating.

[NineInchNails]

I've got a jld612 (1 of 3 PID's I use) that does a temp nose dive after it comes off auto tune. I wasn't happy with the overshoot and under after auto tune. Tried setting PID parameters by hand and said heck with it. Use it as a simple thermostat. Less cycling and wear and tear on SSR. Only two cycles on and off while Hi-Tek baking. Temp goes from 388-400. Best bond yet bullet to coating.

Can you reset to factory settings, do an auto-tune and see if it works properly? I've had an Auber PID act weird and when I checked every single setting I found that some were set improperly. I just reset to factory, did auto-tune and all was great.

[jsizemore]

Can you reset to factory settings, do an auto-tune and see if it works properly? I've had an Auber PID act weird and when I checked every single setting I found that some were set improperly. I just reset to factory, did auto-tune and all was great.

Did all that and it still nose dived. For the 9 minute bake of Hi-Tek it does a great job and cycles twice. Why make it hard on myself?

[mac1911]

Thanks Hatch. Will look into it. Shut it down for lunch, went back out in the shop and everything is working. .?????

F'n Magic