Barrel Profile Change

[deltaenterprizes]

Can anybody change the profile of a varmint barrel to a sporter profile?

[Wolfer]

Anyone with a lathe can.

[TNsailorman]

Sure, but it will have to be removed and turned on a lath and that can get to be quite expensive. At least that was how it was explained to me by a gunsmith when I wanted to do the same thing. A new barrel might be cheaper but you will have to check that out as I had a new barrel already and it didn't costs too much to have it installed. james

[deltaenterprizes]

I am actually looking for someone to do it.
I have a lathe, but no taper attachment!

[elk hunter]

I am actually looking for someone to do it.
I have a lathe, but no taper attachment!

It can be done without a taper attachment by step turning in one inch segments it and then using the compound to cut the taper between the steps or by step turning each of the steps at one quarter inch intervals and using a file to finish the profile. Takes a while but can be done. The hardest part is keeping the deflection and chatter from being a problem when you're working in the middle of the barrel. I turned a cylindrical section in the middle and used a steady rest. You do need to make up a profile drawing with the proper diameters on it so you know where you're going and the numbers you need to hit.

[ulav8r]

Offset the tail stock to turn a taper. Do one offset for a straight taper or multiple offsets for multiple tapers. I have used the multiple offset method to remove the steps from a military Mauser barrel. It was about the third or fourth project I did while teaching myself how to run a lathe.

The profile drawing suggested by elk hunter is a good idea to follow.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

+1 ulav8r offset the tailstock, make test cuts on plain steel rod to check you your taper or different tapers at different spots on the test rod before cutting the barrel. A sharp high-speed steel cutter for the best/cleanest cut. Most barrel steel cuts very nicely.

[deltaenterprizes]

Thanks, a buddy recommended moving the tailstock and that is most probably the way I will do it.
I have a 700 sporter barrel to set the taper and take measurements from.

[Deadeye Bly]

Yes, the best way is to move the tailstock but you must cut the barrel between centers or you will bend it if held in a chuck and it will come out shaped like a pickle. You can use a dial indicator on the carriage to dial in the exact taper you want if you passed fourth grade math. Run the carriage back and forth to adjust the tailstock for the amount of material you wish to remove. Remember that you will cut twice what the indicator reads as you are only measuring one half of the taper. You may need a steady rest near the center. You can stop the lathe and move the steady rest to the other side of the carriage when you need to. Be sure to rough it down first then take a light finishing cut.

[Wolfer]

I do as has been said above. I turn between centers with the tailstock scooched over. I put the steady rest up about midway and cut up to it. Then move it behind the cut and go again.
Once I have my center in the chuck I move the tailstock up to it and scoot it over the amount I have figured.
As was said you only move over half what you need. You cut on both sides.

My lathe is an 1894 model. Once I get it roughed in I use a sanding disc on a 4-1/2” grinder to blend it all together while spinning and the steady removed