do I crimp on just taper crimp on a single shot 44 magnum

[canuck4570]

just bought a Ruger No 1 in 44 magnum

do I crimp or taper crimp ?

[gnostic]

Run a test, I'd be interested in knowing if there's a difference in performance between roll, taper and without a crimp. I roll crimp, to keep the bullets from locking-up my revolvers, but in a single shot that's not an issue...

[Arkansas Paul]

I've read that one purpose of a firm roll crimp on a magnum cartridge is to give just enough resistance to ensure a more complete burn of the powder.
I don't know if this has any validity, just something I've read.

I'm with gnostic. I'd be interested to see a comparison.

[canuck4570]

I have a Ruger No 1 in 4570 and with reduce loads very accurate
never tried with full load
but a hunting friend has a Ruger No 1 in 458 and we did see a difference between crimp and tapper crimp
the crimp one where more accurate

[DougGuy]

I've read that one purpose of a firm roll crimp on a magnum cartridge is to give just enough resistance to ensure a more complete burn of the powder.
I don't know if this has any validity, just something I've read.

I'm with gnostic. I'd be interested to see a comparison.

You need two things for consistent ignition, case neck tension and a consistent crimp. I use a modified collet crimp die and find that my SBH improves greatly shooting the C430-310-RF over 2400, I get 1180-1200fps over the chrony this is a noticeable improvement over the roll crimp and I believe it holds the boolit firmly from movement until enough of the powder begins to burn then it will pull crimp.

I don't think you will need a crimp in a single shot to hold the boolit from moving but if you want consistent velocities, a good crimp will probably help a lot.

[Drew P]

I’d suspect someone has tested this before

[mr surveyor]

You need two things for consistent ignition, case neck tension and a consistent crimp. I use a modified collet crimp die and find that my SBH improves greatly shooting the C430-310-RF over 2400, I get 1180-1200fps over the chrony this is a noticeable improvement over the roll crimp and I believe it holds the boolit firmly from movement until enough of the powder begins to burn then it will pull crimp.

I don't think you will need a crimp in a single shot to hold the boolit from moving but if you want consistent velocities, a good crimp will probably help a lot.


I agree with this


jd

[Tatume]

I've done many tests using many guns chambered in 44 Rem Mag. I've compared light roll crimp, heavy roll crimp, and no crimp. I've developed loads that shoot two inch groups at 100 yards with no crimp, and 1400 fps muzzle velocity (14" SSK Contender and 8-3/8" S&W PC Model 629, both with Leupold 4x scopes). Bullet migration under recoil was not evident in revolvers.

Belling the case mouth helps speed loading, but by carefully aligning gas checked bullets with case mouths, no bell is necessary either. Belling is needed with plain based bullets though, and the bell must be removed prior to use.

Experiment with your own gun. You might be surprised.

[Larry Gibson]

Not in Ruger SSs but in Contenders I also have tested not only the 44 Magnum but also the 357 and 32 H&R magnum with alight, medium, heavy and no crimp and found no crimp or taper crimp gives the best accuracy and internal ballistics. The reason is more likely because the SSs have don't have cylinder throats which are essentially free bore long throats.

[gwpercle]

As a rule :
If the cast boolit has a crimping groove I roll a crimp in there .

If the cast boolit is straight sided then we taper crimp .

But do try crimping both ways and try light , medium and heavy crimps to "fine tune" a load.
Each firearm is a law unto itself and every aspect must be tweeked to find that magical perfect load combination .
Gary

[mdi]

I have been reloading 44 Magnums for quite a while. I started with a stock roll crimp, then went to a Profile Crimp, and a couple years ago I got a Lee Collet Crimp. For all my 44 Mag. handloads I use a good solid crimp (3 revolvers, one lever gun, one Contender). I'm of the opinion that a good crimp is needed for good combustion, especially with the slower magnum powders, and I wasn't impressed with the lighter crimped loads (mebbe it was me but accuracy seemed to suffer). The collet crimp gives a fairly solid crimp, but I have used the Profile Crimp on all my Magnum loads with good results. I may have tried no crimp for some Contender loads, but can't remember the results as it was only about 20-30 rounds 20 or so years ago....

[Tom W.]

Kinda also depends on the powder. H110 or Lil' Gun will most likely need a heavy roll crimp. Not for boolit jump, but for good ignition.

[Char-Gar]

In rifle loads, I do not crimp unless the round is used in a tubular magazine where the bullet might be pushed back into the case. For autopistols I taper crimp and revolvers I favor a taper crimp.

[bluejay75]

I shoot a ton of 44 magnums in rifles. If you are shooting against freebore (most single shots) you’re going to need a good crimp for the best accuracy.

Ask yourself this one question...do you really want a load that only functions in one gun? Find the crimp that most guns like and roll with it. Heavy crimp for all slow burning powders. Moderate to light for fast burning.

[Walks]

I learned about Revolver Crimping when I got My first .454 Casull Revolver in 1987.
I had the Expander in my RCBS die set turned down to .448dia for Jacketed Bullets and used a Lyman M-die from a .45ACP for Cast Bullets.
I used a Heavy Roll Crimp on the Freedom Arms Bullets and then a slight taper Crimp to get the loaded cartridges to fit in the very tight Freedom Arms Chambers.

That was the only way to:
1) Get a complete burn on either W296/H110 or H/IMR 4227.
2) Stop the bullets from jumping the crimp under Recoil.

I use a good crimp on the .44Mag Cartridges for My 10" bbl Contender. Just for better ignition and a full burn with W296 or H4227.

Gives a bit better accuracy too.

Works just as well in my H&R Handi-Rifle too.

[mehavey]

Get/use a Redding profile crimp die.
It does both.

[Rick Hodges]

I have a single shot CVA Scout II in 44 mag. Loaded cast 235gr. using 2400 powder with and without crimp it showed a decisive preference for crimping. I use the dreaded Lee FC die and it works well for me. I also crimp Jacketed 240 gr bullets over WW296. I see a slight improvement in accuracy with the Hornadys.

My guess is each rifle is a rule unto its own.

[canuck4570]

the vote is obvious. crimp with slow powder

thank you

[NSB]

My extensive testing with a variety of single shot rifles says no, you don't need to crimp. I'm a bit of an accuracy nut, and I haven't found any improvement in accuracy by crimping. FWIW, I use a lot of WW296/H110 and it doesn't do any better with a crimp than it does without. Pages of data tell me this is true. When it's all averaged out, the crimp doesn't help. I don't believe a crimp gives a better burn either with 296 or 110. The primer igniting pushes the bullet out of the case mouth before you get a "burn" to begin with. I'd suggest you test this all for yourself and not accept the answers you get here.....just too many opinions, and mine isn't any more valuable untested than anyone else's.

[canuck4570]

that is the fun of it
yes I will try both and see
one thing I know is that with my Ruger no 1 in 4570 I never crimp and this gun I could use in bench rest competition

[asecertified]

I roll crimp all my loads for my revolvers due to heavy loads. Otherwise had bullet creep. I just bought a Henry single shot I guess its time to find what it likes. This rifle will not see the heavy loads my Seville and Dan Wesson saw. Interesting to find out what no crimp etc will do at various distances with medium loads.

[David2011]

Was going to welcome you aboard when I noticed one post but then noticed you've been a member for 2 years. Something to be said for the guy that sits around soaking up everything until he has something worthwhile to contribute. Welcome just the same!