All calipers not created equal

[Dieselhorses]

I know a lot of you watch for things like this but just a reminder for those who have only one scale, one set of calipers etc..

Same bullet (rotated and perfectly round, sized .501), both calipers "zeroed" and yes, new battery in digital:

245946
245947

[RED BEAR]

I am not sure about the quality of either. But they can become inaccurate form use or abuse. Not saying that is the case with these. I feel very fortunate to have a full compliment of quality measuring tools from where i retired. These can also be adjusted i think as i say i am not familiar with either brand. A lot of things i will argue against spending the extra money not measuring tools. If you hold both up against the light when fully closed. If you see light along the jaw line there should be two very small screws at the top of the movable jaw they are for adjusting the angle of contact on the jaws. You will have to loosen one slightly before tightening the other. And be careful not to over tighten or you wount be able to move them. When adjusted they should read the same. If you see no light or don't get the same reading after adjustment one or both are off. As far as i know only quality measuring tools guarantee accuracy or at least they used to.

[Winger Ed.]

The discrepancy is two---- ten thousands of an inch on the assumption the boolit
is perfectly round or ya measured at the same spot on each.

If you're going to size them anyway,
and aren't trying to set a new group size record at Wimbledon -I wouldn't worry too much about it.

[Bazoo]

I checked my RCBS calipers against jacketed .308 bullets and they are right on. Course the bullets could be off, but the chances of me getting calipers that's off .001 and bullets off the other direction .001 is not very likely.

[ulav8r]

The discrepancy is two---- ten thousands of an inch on the assumption the boolit
is perfectly round or ya measured at the same spot on each.

If you're going to size them anyway,
and aren't trying to set a new group size record at Wimbledon -I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Try 2 Thousandths, .002, .499 to .501.

[SSGOldfart]

Doesn't the Hornady show +/- .001 right on the scale??

[EDG]

The two measurements are not the same - that is known.

If either caliper is accurate is not known. You would need to measure a standard of a known calibrated size to determine if either caliper is accurate.
There is also some chance that both calipers are accurate and the differences are due to measuring the bullet at a different location or a variation in the user's technique.

[Dieselhorses]

The two measurements are not the same - that is known.

If either caliper is accurate is not known. You would need to measure a standard of a known calibrated size to determine if either caliper is accurate.
There is also some chance that both calipers are accurate and the differences are due to measuring the bullet at a different location or a variation in the user's technique.

I measured the bullet all the way around (360 degrees) with both calipers. No burrs, no irregularities, and this was after I sized through Lee sizer AND after I examined and cleaned sizer.

[Winger Ed.]

Try 2 Thousandths, .002, .499 to .501.

opps.

[smithnframe]

I use Starrett, Brown & Sharpe, Mitutoyo and some digital thang from Harbor Freight and they all measure the same!

[Froogal]

I use Starrett, Brown & Sharpe, Mitutoyo and some digital thang from Harbor Freight and they all measure the same!

I have the Hornady dial calipers on my reloading bench. I also have the Mitutoyo dial calipers that I used when I worked as a machinist. The Mitutoyo calipers are MUCH smoother to operate and have a better feel than the Hornady, but the accuracy is the same.

[JeepHammer]

To the OP,
Now that you found an 'Issue', do you have measuring standards?

A measuring standard is a precisely ground piece of metal that allows you to QC your measuring tools.

'Zero' is relative since you never measure anything that is 'Zero'.
If you never measure anything, the caliper always stays closed, it's always correct.
Closed calipers or micrometer aren't very useful.

With a couple different length standards you can tell if the caliper is accurate throughout the scale.

[mdi]

For my work I often needed a good measuring tool. (Life long machinist/mechanic). My first dial caliper was a Mitutoyo and it worked quite well for several years until my machinist's tools were stolen. Later when doing HE repair I got an electronic caliper. It lasted less than a year and I had problems with a "wandering zero" and short shut off time. Just before it was discarded it would jump from metric to inch on it's own. Tried a second digital caliper. I used it about 3-4 times a week for a month, put it in a drawer and the battery leaked (batteries were free to mechanics so I changed the batteries often). I then got a Craftsman dial caliper. Again the dial caliper worked great, no problems at all for 15 years when I gave it to an apprentice. I will trust a dial caliper waaaaaaay over a digital every time. I was not really convinced with the accuracy either, but the latter work a variation of +/- .0015" was OK.

I don't use calipers to measure bullets. as the design of the jaws can give misreadings, and a good "feel" is necessary to measure bullets accuracy. I have an inexpensive dial caliper accurate to .0005" but for bullets I us a Craftsman 1" micrometer...

[Moleman-]

If the measurement needs to be better than +- .001" I use a micrometer.

[country gent]

Measuring isn't just the tools but the feel you have using them. A little different in thumb wheels, slide tensions thumb positions on calipers can change the feel and the readings. The for sure way to know what is what is to measure gage pins Jo Blocks or standards that are a known size. Calipers are notorious for feel causing differences. Why they are seldom trusted in gage rooms or tool rooms. Another thing to check with calipers is the full range, on a set off 6" calipers check every 1/2" of the range to see if there are errors along the travel or if they grow or shrink along travel. Had a set that were right at 3" but at 1" were -.0005 and at 5" were +.0005 depending on scales racks and pinions ( dials) this can happen.
A strong touch or light touch, soft or springy material surface being measured, uneven surfaces all can have a direct effect. Micrometer standards have ground elliptical ends to aid feel and measuring. They are normally in the 60-65 rc range. Jo blocks and gage pins are truly square ends and in the same hardness range. These are best to check measuring tools. A small set of gage blocks. A .500 1.0000 2.0000 and 4.000 will check calipers to 8" same with mics. Also handy would be a .1000 and .2000. By wring combinations together you can check along the range of most tools easily

[RED BEAR]

I use Starrett, Brown & Sharpe, Mitutoyo and some digital thang from Harbor Freight and they all measure the same!

I my self am a big bronwe and sharpe fan but the other two are top.quality to.

[RED BEAR]

Measuring isn't just the tools but the feel you have using them. A little different in thumb wheels, slide tensions thumb positions on calipers can change the feel and the readings. The for sure way to know what is what is to measure gage pins Jo Blocks or standards that are a known size. Calipers are notorious for feel causing differences. Why they are seldom trusted in gage rooms or tool rooms. Another thing to check with calipers is the full range, on a set off 6" calipers check every 1/2" of the range to see if there are errors along the travel or if they grow or shrink along travel. Had a set that were right at 3" but at 1" were -.0005 and at 5" were +.0005 depending on scales racks and pinions ( dials) this can happen.
A strong touch or light touch, soft or springy material surface being measured, uneven surfaces all can have a direct effect. Micrometer standards have ground elliptical ends to aid feel and measuring. They are normally in the 60-65 rc range. Jo blocks and gage pins are truly square ends and in the same hardness range. These are best to check measuring tools. A small set of gage blocks. A .500 1.0000 2.0000 and 4.000 will check calipers to 8" same with mics. Also handy would be a .1000 and .2000. By wring combinations together you can check along the range of most tools easily

Absolutely right the best tools in the world are useless until you develop the feel. Always gave new people a box of standards to practice on so they could hopefully develop a feel for there tools.

[cheese1566]

Just like asking the time from two people, or looking at two clocks/watches.

Dial and digital calipers get you in the ball park for everyday measurements. For more precision, use a good 1” micrometer.

[Dan Cash]

I measured the bullet all the way around (360 degrees) with both calipers. No burrs, no irregularities, and this was after I sized through Lee sizer AND after I examined and cleaned sizer.

It is not unlikely that the Lee sizer is not true producing an out of round bullet. After buying three Lee sizers, I quit them as the sizing chamber was bored on a tangent to the main axis and the other two were simply out of round. You need a standard to test your instruments against to know if they are accurate and in calibration.

Further, you are measuring a painted bullet. While I have no experience with coated bullets, I doubt the coating is perfectly uniform.

[trapper9260]

I have a RCBS dial ones and used them when I work in the ship yard build subs and I had them calibrated for use for the ship yard they only found that there was a spot that hit at the time for the slid. Other then that they where at where they need to be to use for building subs. They are the same ones I use for reloading also .I will not use the digital ones because of it is electrical with the battery it is just for how I see it . It works for me also.

[DougGuy]

Try 2 Thousandths, .002, .499 to .501.

This alone should be a final argument for a DECENT 0"-1" micrometer. I use digital calipers when I am rummaging through my box of drill bits, this is about ALL THEY ARE GOOD FOR. Outside of this, might as well be playing pin the tail on the donkey.

[Ole Joe Clarke]

What they said, use a micrometer that is calibrated properly.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

[Dieselhorses]

It is not unlikely that the Lee sizer is not true producing an out of round bullet. After buying three Lee sizers, I quit them as the sizing chamber was bored on a tangent to the main axis and the other two were simply out of round. You need a standard to test your instruments against to know if they are accurate and in calibration.

Further, you are measuring a painted bullet. While I have no experience with coated bullets, I doubt the coating is perfectly uniform.

I can make a video if you'd like of me turning the bullet an 1/8" at a time. Wrong measurement or not, if it's the same all the way (full circumference) would it be safe to say it was round? And if it is a perfect round, I have no reason to believe that my sizer is "tangent".

[jmorris]

If I want a precise measurement I don’t use calipers, that’s what micrometers are for.

If you get some gauge blocks or standards you can learn proper techniques for getting very close with calipers though.

[country gent]

For the most accuracy in a measurement its jo blocks a granite plate and indicator with heavy stand. Jo blocks are stacked up to dimension indicator on stand zeroed and then used to part. This gets the closest most accurate measurement possible. The next is jo blocks stacked and wrung together and micrometer. wrung blocks are measured with mic and reading noted then the part if reading are the same then the part is right. then is the mic zeroed at some point other with a standard. Precision measuring is a skill that takes awhile to learn and develop. Its a proves that must repeat, be checkable and be the same from location to location. A part made in one plant must git the mating part in another plant. A bullet made in one shop has to fit the cases dies rifles everywhere.

[44magLeo]

I have tried battery powered measuring tools. I think if you spent enough on them, they may work. But at any price most can afford they are not trustworthy.
I have several dial calipers that I trust. One is even metric. I use these for case length's. I have a 1 inch mike for diameters.
Battery powered tools often need to warm up for at least a few minutes before they work right. They tend to drift from interference from other nearby electrical devices.
I have several electric scales. I bought them to weigh boolits. Thought they would be fasters. The most costly was around $35. You put the same boolit on the scale 5 times and get 5 different weights. Not by a few hundredths or tenths but by 3 to 5 grains.
They get used as paper weights.
Leo

[6bg6ga]

I've found cheap plastic calipers without a dial just as accurate as Starrett. Measure a jacketed bullet and you will be right on with anything you pick up and if not its you not the instrument.

[EDG]

Hold the caliper in your hand for 5 minutes and it will expand. Then the measurement will be wrong.
This is because the thermal coefficient of expansion is much higher than steel.


I've found cheap plastic calipers without a dial just as accurate as Starrett. Measure a jacketed bullet and you will be right on with anything you pick up and if not its you not the instrument.

[Bazoo]

I don't see listed, what brand is the digital caliper?

I don't see the draw to digital calipers. I guess if your blind and can't see the marks on a dial. But then, if you can't see that, how do you inspect cases?

[15meter]

I've got a Mitutoyo 0-6" digital caliper, I check it regularly against jo-blocks at several points along the range that I use, in 20 years it has always been spot on. The battery/warmup time is a non-issue with these, it is never off and the battery life is measured in 12+months between battery changes. I've got a Starrett 0-6" dial that has the same kind of accuracy/repeatability. I can't remember the last time I got out one of the Starrett or Lufkin micrometers because either of my calipers is accurate enough for what I measure. The Mitutoyo's stated accuracy is +/- .001 with a repeatability of .0005. I've run gage R&R's on it and mine actually tests better than that.

For a micrometer unless you get a tenth's reading mic with the vernier on the barrel, I'm not sure a standard micrometer will do any better and reading the vernier is something old guys eyes are not meant to do.

And I'm not blind, but it is definitely easier to read the digital display and less likely for me to transpose numbers in my head like I'm prone to do when using a dial.

For function and hand feel I like the Starrett dial better, I just think I'm a little less prone to a measurement error with the digital

[country gent]

Newer dials are shielded better but I had fine swarf and dust get in the rack ad affect measurements. Had one set that when this happened would occasionally jump a tooth or 2 and require being reset and recalibrated. When I first saw dials they were 0-100-0 dials 200 per revolution not th3 0-100 dials and 100 rev like todays.

[EDG]

With a micrometer you get a much more consistent feel when measuring different shapes.
In pinch you can even guess at the nearest .0001. If you have a Swiss made Tesa or Etalon the thimbles are marked with .0005 graduations. This makes it possible to use an easier to read vernier with just 5 lines. In addition if it is important some of the mike designs have a fat thimble that makes the tenths easier to read. Those include the very expensive Tesamaster and the Mitutoyo model 106-102 with non-rotating spindle.
A caliper might test ok on a standard but it will never give a good consistent feel on a wide variety of work pieces and it is never going to be consistently good to .0005 no matter what the display says. A mike can be trusted to better than .0005 and usually to .0002 even if you have to guess when there is no vernier.


I've got a Mitutoyo 0-6" digital caliper, I check it regularly against jo-blocks at several points along the range that I use, in 20 years it has always been spot on. The battery/warmup time is a non-issue with these, it is never off and the battery life is measured in 12+months between battery changes. I've got a Starrett 0-6" dial that has the same kind of accuracy/repeatability. I can't remember the last time I got out one of the Starrett or Lufkin micrometers because either of my calipers is accurate enough for what I measure. The Mitutoyo's stated accuracy is +/- .001 with a repeatability of .0005. I've run gage R&R's on it and mine actually tests better than that.

For a micrometer unless you get a tenth's reading mic with the vernier on the barrel, I'm not sure a standard micrometer will do any better and reading the vernier is something old guys eyes are not meant to do.

And I'm not blind, but it is definitely easier to read the digital display and less likely for me to transpose numbers in my head like I'm prone to do when using a dial.

For function and hand feel I like the Starrett dial better, I just think I'm a little less prone to a measurement error with the digital

[1hole]

I worked 15 years as a "precision measures equipment lab-electronic" (PMEL/E) repair/calibration technician in the space program. It is (or at least was) understood that any digital read-out was the factory accuracy percentage plus or minus one count. I didn't do digital physical standards (micrometers/calipers) but their accuracy plus/minus one count would still apply. IF you think you need accuracy better than one thou get a tool that measures to ten thou (0.0001") and expect to pay some big bucks for it!

Precision reloaders need a decent caliper and/or micrometer; a 6" caliper is most useful and plenty accurate for our real needs. I've not seen every caliper ever made but I've only found two grades of them.

The first are the excellent but costly professional machinist tools such as Starrett, Brown and Sharpe or Mitutoyo but even they need regular certified lab calibration to be dependable. They're great tools but it's hard to justify their cost for what reloaders do.

More reasonable are the low cost small shop/hobbyists tools (like those for us reloaders) made in China, some of which carry reloading brands from Midway to Lyman to RCBS. When the sliding is jaw squared as described above, I've seen NO consistent difference in any Chinese made brand, including those from Harbor Freight Tools, dial or digital, which are often on sale for as little as $10-$15. I've had some 7-8 H.F. 6" and one 12" calipers in my little home machine shop and loading room for some 15+ years; my two Jo blocks - in 0.030" and 1.0" - say they are all either dead on or, worst case, off no more than half a thou. (And, my three digitals have no rack gear to collect swarf!)

Meaning, except for bragging rights, the professional grade tools mean little or nothing to a reloader. Nor does price/brand of the Chinese tools. We can pay a little for H.F. or a lot more for RCBS but those I've seen look like they are all made in the same Chinese plant!

[1hole]

I worked 15 years as a "precision measurement equipment lab-electronic" (PMEL/E) repair/calibration technician in the space program. It is (or at least was) understood that any digital read-out was the factory accuracy percentage plus or minus one count. I didn't do digital physical standards (micrometers/calipers) but their accuracy plus/minus one count would still apply. IF you think you need accuracy better than one thou get a tool that measures to ten thou (0.0001") and expect to pay some big bucks for it!

Precision reloaders need a decent caliper and/or micrometer; a 6" caliper is most useful and plenty accurate for our real needs. I've not seen every caliper ever made but I've only found two grades of them.

The first are the excellent but costly professional machinist tools such as Starrett, Brown and Sharpe or Mitutoyo but even they need regular certified lab calibration to be dependable. They're great tools but it's hard to justify their cost for what reloaders do.

More reasonable are the low cost small shop/hobbyists tools (like those for us reloaders) made in China, some of which carry reloading brands from Midway to Lyman to RCBS. When the sliding is jaw squared as described above, I've seen NO consistent difference in any Chinese made brand, including those from Harbor Freight Tools, dial or digital, which are often on sale for as little as $10-$15. I've had some 7-8 H.F. 6" and one 12" calipers in my little home machine shop and loading room for some 15+ years; my two Jo blocks - in 0.030" and 1.0" - say they are all either dead on or, worst case, off no more than half a thou. (And, my three digitals have no rack gear to collect swarf!)

Meaning, except for bragging rights, the professional grade tools mean little or nothing to a reloader. Nor does price/brand of the Chinese tools. We can pay a little for H.F. or a lot more for RCBS but those I've seen look like they are all made in the same Chinese plant!

[Walks]

How no one is using a Micrometer ?

That what I was taught to use when measuring the diameter of a hopefully round bullet.

[Bazoo]

I bought the RCBS calipers over the other brands of china made because of RCBS' warranty. I figure if they break I'll get them replaced for only shipping. But I also figure, if they aren't all from the same plant, maybe they are a little better than some others, since RCBS will warranty them for life.

I had a HF set for a few years. I went to use them one day and noticed the needle flopping around on the shaft. They had a fairly easy life but did get dropped a few times on a wood floor.

[Dieselhorses]

Big thanks to everyone who shared experiences, suggested micrometers and professional advice. Also everyone who mentioned having a means for calibration as this makes a lot of sense! One perspective of casting is that we are sending a "not so perfect" projectile down a "closer to perfect" bore/rifling. Objective is to get the best fit. Also those who mentioned "getting the feel" of measuring diameters and such makes a lot of sense too. I just want consistency and if it means graduating to a micrometer then so be it.

[Drew P]

I worked 15 years as a "precision measures equipment lab-electronic" (PMEL/E) repair/calibration technician in the space program. It is (or at least was) understood that any digital read-out was the factory accuracy percentage plus or minus one count. I didn't do digital physical standards (micrometers/calipers) but their accuracy plus/minus one count would still apply. IF you think you need accuracy better than one thou get a tool that measures to ten thou (0.0001") and expect to pay some big bucks for it!

Precision reloaders need a decent caliper and/or micrometer; a 6" caliper is most useful and plenty accurate for our real needs. I've not seen every caliper ever made but I've only found two grades of them.

The first are the excellent but costly professional machinist tools such as Starrett, Brown and Sharpe or Mitutoyo but even they need regular certified lab calibration to be dependable. They're great tools but it's hard to justify their cost for what reloaders do.

More reasonable are the low cost small shop/hobbyists tools (like those for us reloaders) made in China, some of which carry reloading brands from Midway to Lyman to RCBS. When the sliding is jaw squared as described above, I've seen NO consistent difference in any Chinese made brand, including those from Harbor Freight Tools, dial or digital, which are often on sale for as little as $10-$15. I've had some 7-8 H.F. 6" and one 12" calipers in my little home machine shop and loading room for some 15+ years; my two Jo blocks - in 0.030" and 1.0" - say they are all either dead on or, worst case, off no more than half a thou. (And, my three digitals have no rack gear to collect swarf!)

Meaning, except for bragging rights, the professional grade tools mean little or nothing to a reloader. Nor does price/brand of the Chinese tools. We can pay a little for H.F. or a lot more for RCBS but those I've seen look like they are all made in the same Chinese plant!
Thank you for confirming this. I’ve suspected it all along, after purchasing over 50 pair HF dial and digitals and used many others along the way. They all come out of the same bins in China, hornady, rcbs, Fowler, HF, central, Lyman etc etc. I always thought starrett was the old middle quality brand, and mitutoyo is the beginning of the good kinds. I prefer B&S but I agree, for my purpose they aren’t really warranted as a dial caliper is only good for 1mil anyway. Heck, the last pair of tesa I bought was grittier than many of my favorite HF were. I loathe the electric ones, my Brian takes a lot more energy to read numbers than the needle. Especially in comparisons, probably the most common task for dial calipers.

[Drew P]

How no one is using a Micrometer ?

That what I was taught to use when measuring the diameter of a hopefully round bullet.
Because it’s much more awkward and time consuming, and limited range. Caliper can go 0”-12” and back to zero in 1 second.

[GregLaROCHE]

I have two digital calipers I bought from eBay. One seems to work better than the other. I am not crazy about either one. Even when I adjust the tension, the readings seem to change. I have a 1” micrometer that I use a lot. Especially when working with my mini lathe. I’ve been thinking about getting dial type calipers. How much do you have to spend for a decent pair?

[Drew P]

I have two digital calipers I bought from eBay. One seems to work better than the other. I am not crazy about either one. Even when I adjust the tension, the readings seem to change. I have a 1” micrometer that I use a lot. Especially when working with my mini lathe. I’ve been thinking about getting dial type calipers. How much do you have to spend for a decent pair?
100$ For mitutoyo. Little more for b&s

[onelight]

I have a 6” NSK dial caliper I bought in the mid 70s for reloading it is as good as the day I bought it , and I have never had to replace the batteries :bigsmyl2: They seem to be relatively cheaper now than they were then.

[6bg6ga]

I know a lot of you watch for things like this but just a reminder for those who have only one scale, one set of calipers etc..

Same bullet (rotated and perfectly round, sized .501), both calipers "zeroed" and yes, new battery in digital:

245946
245947

Are you serious?

If your going to compare readings of two calipers then use something worthy of being measured like for example some ground precision pins, a jacketed bullet or something along that line instead of a cast bullet with an uneven coating on it.

[DougGuy]

I can make a video if you'd like of me turning the bullet an 1/8" at a time. Wrong measurement or not, if it's the same all the way (full circumference) would it be safe to say it was round? And if it is a perfect round, I have no reason to believe that my sizer is "tangent".

It's springback. The die is likely very round, your boolit springs back in uneven dimensions because the stress is not equal throughout the casting.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

The title should read, "All thumbs not created equal", instead of "All calipers not created equal".

If you are going to use a caliper to measure soft metal with a plastic coating, you need a calibrated thumb...or like the rest of us(who want a accurate, repeatable reading), use a 0-1" Mic with a slip clutch.

[DougGuy]

100$ For mitutoyo. Little more for b&s

I pay about $35 ebay for Mitutoyo calipres, and $40 for a Mitutoyo mic that reads in .0001" increments. I find the mic with the manual numerical readout to be the most usable, if I am measuring a boolit and it is reading .358" and the 8 is halfway to the 9, it's pretty much .3585" if it's only partially towards the 9, it's .3582" and this is fast and accurate for me.

My biggest use of a mic is when customers send dummies with barrels to be throated and cylinders to be reamed, I mic the dummies and very often find the dummies themselves are the problem because they are oversize as to what the customer thinks they are (because they measured with calipers and got a smaller reading) or quite out of rounds or they are swaged larger in front of the case mouth by the crimp, either of these scenarios would cause them not to plunk even when the throat is of sufficient diameter.

[Drew P]

35$ for mitutoyo? I’m impressed, or maybe I’m not, if they are not authentic Japan made mitutoyo. I’ve heard there are fakes being peddled out, which comes as no surprise given the track record for China and the ease at which they could copy them.

[Petrol & Powder]

Well I cursed myself by reading this thread. Just dropped my calipers, on concrete, they're toast.

30 years +, they worked perfectly. Oh well, new set on the way.

[DougGuy]

35$ for mitutoyo? I’m impressed, or maybe I’m not, if they are not authentic Japan made mitutoyo.

My bad, mine were $45 on ebay, like new with case etc..

Mitutoyo Absolute Digimatic digital caliper 500-196-20 CD-6"CSX

246363

[Dieselhorses]

Well I cursed myself by reading this thread. Just dropped my calipers, on concrete, they're toast.

30 years +, they worked perfectly. Oh well, new set on the way.

Sorry Petrol!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[M-Tecs]

Lots of new on evil-bay for as low as $12.97. Same item on Amazon is 10 times or more. Industrial supply houses are more like 15 times more. I will not purchase Leupold from evil-bay due to all the Chinese fakes. I didn't believe for a New York minute that a $12.97 Mitutoyo is the real deal. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MITUTOYO-ABSOLUTE-12-DIGITAL-CALIPER-BRAND-500-196-20-in-BOX-300mm/283300587328?hash=item41f607e740:g:rgkAAOSwi-dbuEB3 note it ships from China.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=mitutoyo+absolute+500-196-20+digital+caliper

[Wolverine19D]

If you guys want a better then $10 digital caliper look at the IGaging Origin caliper, I believe they run about $35 new but I picked mine up used on Ebay for $20-25. I read a few reviews on different calipers before deciding on one and at first I decided to just get the cheaper Igaging as it also had better then average reviews and only cost about $25 new but when the Origin popped up used for the same price I picked it up and it's been a great caliper and very smooth. It also takes the bigger 2032 batteries which are a lot more common to me then the little ones and should last a lot longer.

So from what I can tell when it comes to calipers most of the $10-20 ones are about the same and then in the $20 some range there are a couple brands that are noticably better then the cheapers with the main one sticking out being the Igaging.
Then if you want a slightly better yet caliper and overall the best bang for your buck get the Igaging Origins for $35.

Or just get a cheaper dial caliper? I actually have one of those cheap plastic Lyman dial calipers I use from time to time and it is surprisingly accurate and easy to use. I believe I am going to pick up one of the cheap $15-20 Chinese stainless steel calipers to try out since I like that cheap plastic one so much.

Edited to add - The origin also has a nice feature in that you don't have to zero it after the first time and it holds zero very well. You can turn it on with it being opened up and it will read the correct numbers. The only negative I find with this is when using Hornady headspace gauges that make you rezero the caliper for each insert or with the bullet comparator when comparing the rounds OAL from the ogive. For that reason I have been thinking about picking up another cheaper set just for those needs.

[Drew P]

My bad, mine were $45 on ebay, like new with case etc..

Mitutoyo Absolute Digimatic digital caliper 500-196-20 CD-6"CSX


Ah I thought you meant dial caliper. I loathe digital for two reasons so I don’t consider them, but they are cheaper and more durable, which are their only pluses.