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jcw1970
10-29-2008, 10:10 PM
I've just started casting and have some questions. What is the seating screw # mean on the lyman chart? Also anyone have a 468 or 473 top punch they want to get rid of? I can't seem to get a good bullet. i preheat the mold and make sure i have a steady stream of lead and have the mold tilted a little but i still am getting pour lines in the bullet. What am i doing wrong?

docone31
10-29-2008, 10:17 PM
Either need more heat, both on the mold, pot, or both, and possibly a little tin.

mooman76
10-29-2008, 10:55 PM
Sounds like more heat to me. Either just keep cranking them out until your bullets come out better or turn the heat up or both.

Echo
10-30-2008, 02:08 AM
And the number on the Lyman top punches generally relate to the boolit they were made to punch - #284 for the 311284, for example (not sure the numbers are right, but it's the principle...). And one punch may be appropriate for several boolit shapes.

dromia
10-30-2008, 02:12 AM
Welcome to Cast Boolits JCW.:drinks:

Hang in there and it will come right for you.

copdills
10-30-2008, 06:51 AM
Welcome to the forum, it just takes time be patient:cbpour:

missionary5155
10-30-2008, 07:55 AM
Good morning and WELCOME !
I LIKE the MORE HEAT advice... I cast off a propane stove and I find my 30-1 to pure lead mix always cast best REEAL HOT... I always have a pretty blue -yellow scum on top... I get nice boolits.. This may not be the proper temperature... but it sure cast GOOD boolits with no fuss. AND do they ever shoot GOOD !

Calamity Jake
10-30-2008, 08:59 AM
"i still am getting pour lines in the bullet."

If you mean the line running along the sides of the boolet at the center, that is the parting line caused by the mold when it is closed, you will never get rid of it and it does not cause any problems unless there are fins on the boolet caused from the mold NOT being completely closed.

44man
10-30-2008, 09:16 AM
I think he is getting layers from lead cooling as it enters the mold. More heat! Hotter mold! [smilie=1:

happy7
10-30-2008, 07:19 PM
The seating screw number refers to the screw that Lyman used to make to fit in the seating die. This allowed you to seat the bullet without leaving a mark when you reloaded them. They no longer make seating screws, probably because the univeral shapes that come with most dies work well with most bullets. Some manufacturers still offer round nose, wadcutter and SWC screws. It is possible to addapt the top punch to work as a seating screw in Lee dies when necessary.

jcw1970
10-31-2008, 10:00 PM
thanks all, i cranked up the heat and no more layer lines.

jcw1970
10-31-2008, 10:03 PM
that would explain why my dies for the .38 aren't working too well on round nose bullets. took it apart and the seater is flat for wad cutters. makes sense since i got them from my grandfather and he had a sw model 52.

obssd1958
10-31-2008, 10:23 PM
jcw,
If you need a round nose seating screw for your 38/357 dies, send me a PM with your address, and I'll send you one. I'm sure I have 2 or 3 extras runnin' around here!

Don

jcw1970
11-03-2008, 09:22 PM
Thanks Don, but I ordered a 4 die set from Midway allready. Those 38 dies I have are so old they don't have a mfg. on them.