What’s your process for throwing powder charges?

[Swamp Fox]

What is everybody’s process for throwing and weighing charges? Do you track how consistently your powder measure throws the same charge?

For my rifles, ive always used an old rcbs powder measure, that was with the used reloading stuff I bought when I started. My old method for throwing powder was to get it adjusted, then load 5-10 rounds, then weigh and readjust as needed. But it seemed like I was always readjusting and never getting good consistency from my powder measure. Accuracy was ok, but never great, for cast and jacketed rounds. Lately I have been setting the powder measure a little low, then weighing every load and bringing them up to the correct weight with a little extra powder from a spent casing. My group sizes have shrunk, and I have less variations in velocity. But it sure is time consuming. Is there a powder measure that is more consistent than others, or does everybody do the same thing I do? I wouldn’t think that wear would really affect it.

[Nobade]

When I switched from RCBS to Redding measures the spreads dropped considerably. Now I set it and go.

[gnostic]

It depends on the type of powder being dropped. For handguns, the powders being ball or flake, drop right on the money. For my rifle handloads, I'm usually using a stick powder and they don't drop accurately. So, like you, I drop a light charge and use a trickler to bring them up to an accurate amount.

[jmort]

Powder measure, dippers, and ChargeMaster Lite

[Shuz]

I remember reading an article in the now defunct Precision Rifle or Precision Shooting magazine, that basically said that the good shooting bench resters throw all their charges from a good reliable measure, and don't bother to weigh every charge. Their theory goes like this: Since not every kernel burns every time anyway, why worry about how many exact kernals are in the case? They are quick to point out that this is with powders that are known to throw without crunching kernals. Their method is to set the measure, check weigh a couple of charges and then proceed to fill cases. On the last case, they check weigh the charge to make sure it is within their accepted range which is usually 1/10th to 2/10th of a grain.
Since I load on a Dillon 450 and a Square Deal B, I find this method works real well. The only powders where I weigh every charge is big extruded powders like 4064,4759,7828 etc. On these on the old 450, I leave the button out of the charging station, and pull out each case after the charge is thrown and then trickle to the desired weight, again +-1/10th of a grain.

[Arkansas Paul]

It depends on the powder.
Most of the time for rifle stuff, I throw a little light and trickle up to the desired weight.

For pistol, I throw straight into the case and weigh ever so often. How often depends on the powder.

[Dusty Bannister]

I am mostly a handgun shooter and certainly not into match shooting. I use the single stage press so charge my cases while in a loading block of 40 or 50 cases. I seldom use a stick powder since I can feel the crunch and suspect that the powder charge might be off a little. I try to be as consistent as possible when I move the handle on the RCBS Uniflow to fill the drum and to empty the drum. I try for a firm thump at the end of each stroke. Perhaps this helps settle the powder in the drum chamber when filling, and again when dumping the powder charge into the case. None of my charges are upper limit so I am not OC about each individual charge, but I do drop 10 charges, weigh and move the decimal when setting the measure. Letting the powder measure sit on the bench while moving things and bumping the bench might settle the powder and influence the weight of the charge. I try to maintain a similar level of powder in the measure to keep "head pressure" on the powder column about the same. I use a funnel in the top of the measure and the outlet of the funnel is about half way down the plastic cylinder.

The smaller the charge, the more likely that chance .5 grain difference will affect the group. I will match head stamp cases, but I do not weigh my bullets for normal loads. I am a shooter, not a match competitor. Your needs may require otherwise. Dusty

[Elroy]

If I weigh every charge I set it to drop a grain light,and set the pan on my scale,and use a dipper to just tap in the powder,and slow down just shy of my desired weigth,and watch the instant my scale shows the desired amount.I'm usually not that picky,and dont sweat a tenth over,but I have been known to tweezer out a stick,or two just to be as close as I can get..I dont use my trickler any more because I have a habit of bumping my pan into it as i lift it off the scale.

[Land Owner]

Same for me as AR Paul (and others).

Rifle rounds (for hunting) get thrown "lite" and each is trickled to final weight.

Pistol and revolver, I set the progressive up and weigh every 20th or so charge - same on the progressive for the AR15 in 223 cal. (an inherently accurate round and rifle). I also use a powder indicator die on the progressive for a quick visual on each round as there is a lot going on at one time.

[Tripplebeards]

I just retired my 18 year old charge master scale as it was on the blink. It was always a tedious process with that type Of scale because after charging it a grain or so light I akways manually dropped powder grains one by one after every powder charge and it would take all day ( several hours) to load 200 rounds it would seem like. What a PITA!!! I bought the new RCBS trickle charger pro lite a few months ago. The built in trickeler has a fluted barrel to keep extra grains from falling out causing over charges like like most scales. It’s the only one with a fluted barrel. It’s completely automatic and I can load 50 rounds in about five minutes it’s ridiculous fast and accurate, Oh, I love modern technology!!! Should have bought one when they first came out years ago. I hated powder dripping with that old scale as much as I hate case trimming...now it’s just case trimming! All I have to do is program my scale and it’s automatic. I do wait till after it beeps and shows the powder charge weight again since maybe one in 15 to 20 will throw a .1 grain heavier.

Who ever is debating on buying a new scale...buy the automatic RCBS pro lite trickle scale. You will be extremely happy and thank me! I never thought I could punch in 18.1 grains and hit go...and watch it dump about 17 real quickly and trickle the remainder 1.1 grains PERFECTLY without my help and then BEEP! It’s done and letting you know it’s ok to dump in your casing. I have it set up on repeat so as soon as I set my pan back down it repeats charging automatically until I program it not to do so. Most powders take about 5 seconds or so to charge...accept trail boss. That takes a about three times as long with the donut shaped powder.

[Green Frog]

I use a variety of powder measures, but lately I’ve been using either a RCBS Little Dandy or a Lyman Accu-Measure with fixed rotors, so I fill the reservoir then toss a few throws back into the jug. Then I weigh a charge to make sure I put in the right rotor and gitter done. I make a point of turning the rotor as close to the same way each time to aid consistency.

Froggie

[Swamp Fox]

Funny you should mention the lil dandy. I’ve got one too, and use it to load pistol and light rifle loads, almost always with unique. I have found it to be very consistent and have some very accurate loads using it. I almost never weigh charges coming out of it. Usually only if I switch rotors, to make sure it’s throwing what I think it is.

[mdi]

Whenever I'm using a powder measure, In try to do everything exactly the same, charge to charge. When using my Lee PPM (please, Lee haters stay away), I most often set the charge, weigh 3 or 4 consecutive charges and they weigh every 3rd of 4th charge, depending on the powder. My CH is used mostly with "log" powders and my method is much the same, depending on powder. None of my powder measuring tools give consistent, less than .2 gr when measuring IMR 4064. When doing a load work up or charges for my Garand, I will weigh every charge...

[JBinMN]

I weigh every charge for every round regardless of which powder or which measure(RCBS or LEE) I am using. It just doesn't take me that long in the sequence of loading & thus I am confident I am not over or undercharging any of my rounds.
( Yes, I am OCD about it, but it is "my" way & if ya don't like it, too bad. ;) )

I generally set the measure to throw at, or just under the desired amount & then I throw each charge by raising & lowering the handle, but tapping the handle 2x at each point in the swing top & bottom to make sure I am getting a consistent load without any "bridging" occurring.

Then, when necessary, I trickle the charge up to the desired weight if it was not thrown correctly. If I see that I am having to trickle more & more than before, then I will check the measure & reset it as necessary to get it back to throwing "on" or just under, & then return to loading.

I "test" 8-10 throws before I start to load any rounds to confirm the setting just to make sure I am not going to have to be stopping the sequence to test the measure, unless I begin to get inconsistent readings on the scale. As the powder in the measure drops, I occasionally have to reset the measure for some powders & if I were not checking each round as I go, it is possible that I would keep getting less & less charge as I went on, so to prevent that, & for "peace of mind", I just measure each one.

I even weigh powders I have first volume weighed with a scoop measure just to verify each one, but like I said, that is "my way", and if others do not choose to do so, that is fine with me...

Of course, like many things, we each do our own "thing", IOW, YMMV, and as long as one follows the safety procedures as proscribed in most if not all reloading manuals, one can measure powders any way they like, either in batches/occasionally, just once or twice, or individually, such as I mention here for what "I" do.

I find this type of topic interesting, as it tends to show the differences in ones way of looking at things & just confirms that we all walk different paths to get to the same destination in the end... Each enjoying their "own way" of doing things.
;)

[country gent]

A new measure gets the test. 100 charges dropped with the powder Im most likely to use in it. Sometimes 2 or 3. These are weighed and written down in groups of 10. This shows 1) basic accuracy of measure. 2) what to expect from the measure. 3) any variances do to powder level in the hopper changing. 4)And last it helps show the operation the measure likes. A powder measure can be very accurate when tuned to a given powder and or charge range.

When throwing charges with my lyman 55 I leave it sit with hopper empty raise handle to charge five it one light bump to settle and drop with a light bump at the down stroke. This helps to settle the powder in the hopper for the next charge, and relieve any bridging.
I do weigh every charge. Normally with most powders its with in .2 grns.

Both my Harrels measures ran similar are scarry accurate.

One thig to remember is a powder measure needs to be ran consistently to be accurate. same bumps speed and at rest positions. Hopper levels can and do affect measures less head pressure means lighter charges, select a range in the hopper and work in it. The solidness of the measures mount makes a difference also. Sometimes a baffle helps, I have found this more with stick powders and larger charges. A baffle set up right will lower hopper level variations also.
The above run helps to figure out the given measures likes and dislikes

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I use the Lee Perfect Powder Measure. Set to weight, run 5 to settle powder, 3-4 to check setting. I use an '06 case (mostly) to catch and check settings. Ball powders give 0 variance, Varget, RL15, newer short stick powder, less than 2 granules difference, course powders less than 0.1 grain. I raise handle(fill chamber with a bump), lower handle (dump charge) with a bump, raise 1/2" and bump again. First 20 I check every 5, then go to every 10. I have an RCBS Uniflow, old Herter's, and new Lee Deluxe Perfect Powder Measure. I think the the new Lee may be more accurate(consistent) with the flake powders and the smaller charges(less than 5 grains). I use an RCBS 505 scale, I have a set of Lyman check weights I use fairly often with the scale. I have done the trickle thing, but haven't noticed a difference out past 300 yards if proper incremental load development is done.

[scotner]

I have also returned to the Little Dandy for powders such as Unique that don't weigh consistently with a Dillon measure. I got away from the Little Dandy years ago because it always seemed that I needed a charge weight somewhere between two of the available rotors. The shape of the cavity in the rotor seems to be more accurate for small charges than the Dillon with the small charge bar. I resolved the "in between" problem by adding one or two micro magnets in the bottom of the rotor to slightly reduce the amount of powder it drops. Then I stick the same number of those magnets to the end of the rotor where the number is stamped to remind me what is in there. I always use a rotor that is within the listed charge range for the powder being used just in case the magnets should dislodge but this has never happened yet.

[Sig556r]

RCBS Uniflow works for me (random checks) for rifle cartridges other than 300BLK & 277WLV
Pistol get consistent powder drop in both 550s with baffled powder cylinders.

[skrapyard628]

I only load for pistol calibers and I do so on a Lee 4-hole turret. I use the lee auto drum measures for plinking rounds and some powders. And I use a Hornady Lock n Load measure with the auto-linkage for more precise target ammo and some other powders.

I use loading blocks. When loading plinking ammo I throw powder into 100 cases and then spot check the weight on a few from the beginning, middle, and end of the lot. When loading precision target ammo or self defense rounds I check the charge weight on every single round.

The Lee auto drum keeps the charge weights within +/- .1gr for most powders I use (WSF,WST,AutoComp,W231,Power Pistol) but I was getting variations of +/- .2gr when using larger flake powders like Unique with it. I also had some issues with the auto drum leaking powder when using W296, AA#7, AA#9.

Thats where the Hornady LnL measure comes in. It doesnt leak any of the fine grain powders I use and the charge weights I throw with it are spot-on.

[white eagle]

I have been using a Redding powder measure from day 1
I check 1 in 5 and if they fall in my tolerance's they are good to go
for big extruded rifle powders I usually weigh them all
usually only do a box of 20 or so at a time

[Land Owner]

Some days I just pour the components on the shooting bench, light the powder for a satisfying smoke test, and throw the projectile toward the target. Some days I EVEN HIT IT.

[robg]

I'm lazy so I use easy metering powders tac blc2 2400 etc use Lyman 55 and a Lee ppm ,check weight from measure then thow directly into cases in tray ,visual check job done.mind you I don't try hot rodding my loads so I'm not on the ragged edge of safety.

[T_McD]

I will weigh the charges when developing the load ladder. Once I settle on a load I weigh every 20 or so to make sure my measure is still throwing correctly

[The Dar]

I do most of my pistol and revolver loading on the LCT. The 44 mag is the exception. I still use the RCBS Rock Chucker and Uniflow powder measure. I have the small micrometer stem in the powder measure. Last night I was loading with 2400 and needed 19.5 grains of powder. I adjust till the load is close. Then throw 10 charges into a small pill bottle and pour into the pan on the scale. I'm looking for a weight of 195 grains. Make small adjustments and repeat the process until I get 195 grains. 195/10=19.5 I then throw one into a 44 case with a reversed fired primer (which I store in the pill bottle) and pour on to the scale if it's at 19.5 I'm good to go. I'll check every 30th one and their usually dead on.

[rcslotcar]

Most pistol powders drop are accurate enough for me. All rifle powders are powder dropped on a scale and hand measured before dropping into the case.

[MT Gianni]

For known charges I use a Lyman digital powder measure and verify every 10th on a balance beam scale. For working up loads I throw onto a balance beam scale. For progressive pistol loads I stop and verify every tenth load.

[waco]

RCBS Charge Master 1500. It weighs charges twice. Adjust accordingly if need be.

[megasupermagnum]

If using Lee scoops, I pour powder in a bowl, and lower the scoop in so the power falls in the scoop. I then lift and scrape with a credit card or similar. I'll then proceed to check maybe 3 throws on a scale to see if I'm close. If I am, I'll throw about 5 more to confirm.

With a powder measure I fill powder, and throw about 10 charges into anything to catch the powder. Dump into hopper and repeat twice more for 30 throws. This settles the powder consistently, and makes life easier. After that I'll adjust accordingly. I never make adjustments unless I'm way off, and only fine tune after 10 throws.

I'm in the minority that thinks the Lyman #55 is an over engineered turd. The knocker is just plain unnecessary, and does nothing but make annoying noises. The two knob system with 3 or 4 set screws for the adjustment is just ridiculous. The numbers don't mean anything, and if you turn the wrong set screw you will pull your hair out trying to figure out what is wrong. It is also the worst possible design for rifle powders. Crunch.

The RCBS is a decent measure. I now mainly use the Lee measure. I have ran 50 throw strings to see just how accurate a powder throws in a measure. 90% of the problem for most people is that first 30-50 throws that is all over the map until the powder settles. 5% is just getting in a rhythm, and not banging the handle. Or you can bang the handle, some people swear banging the handle twice at the bottom helps, and it probably does. Of course fine ball powder like Accurate #5 will always throw more accurately than an irregular flake powder like 800x.

I've always gotten decent results with most powders. I recently did 50 throw tests of Unique, American Select, and Blue dot, in my Lee perfect powder measure. Most were plus or minus .1 grains with about one in ten being .2 grains out. Out of three powders and 150 throws, only a single throw from Unique went .3 grains out. Powder measures on a progressive press face a different set of challenges, and are usually less accurate. I found a powder baffle helps in that situation.

I also recently got to try an RCBS chargemaster. I haven't done much testing, but right off the bat the thing is varying by .2 grains with IMR 4895 (plus or minus .1 grains). It is no more accurate than a manual powder measure, and far slower!

Now I'm a person who does not believe .1 grain means anything at all. I know guys who shoot 3 shot groups and go up a tenth at a time. One of them is bound to be a lucky group, and goes down in history as THE load. My own experience is like most in that there are so call "nodes" that shoot good. For the guys shooting over 500 yards it could be a different story where a 15 fps extreme spread is a big benefit over a 50 fps extreme spread.

Every little bit of exactness count for accuracy, but there are FAR more important things to worry about than powder charge consistency. Neck tension, bullet seating depth, what primer you use, type of powder, et al. two tenths variation in powder throws is about like brass lengths varying .005"-.010". It just doesn't matter that much. I've found a much better use of my time is ensuring my cast bullets are as perfect as I can cast, and sized perfect.


One extra thing, I'm 100% against electric scales. I'm sure there is a high end model out there that is trust worthy, but in my experience, nothing commonly available is worth trusting. You have to let them warm up a good half hour just to get a ballpark reading, and they drift just sitting there. :veryconfu I've been using an RCBS balance scale for many years, and I trust it. While the electric scale on the RCBS chargemaster was reading the same as on my RCBS balance, I believe the electric scale itself is most of the reason why it doesn't trickle charges accurately. A big problem with electric scales is they have a freeze and refresh period. How many times have you been trickling powder to 40 grains? 39.6... trickle. 39.6... trickle... 39.6... trickle... 40.4. The read out freezes and doesn't refresh until it senses a change, which is most of the time way too late. I learned a few tricks like intentionally bumping the scale to get it to read.

Don't mess with them, only trust a calibrated balance scale.

[15meter]

Started with Lee scoops, moved to a Lyman 55, then RCBS powder measure.

Never completely satisfied with any of them.

Picked up a Redding BR-30, use it for 90%+ of my single stage reloading. Check/adjust until I get the weight I want then throw/check 5 for consistency, then check every 10th throw. Before seating boolits every case gets eyeballed with a small flashlight looking for any variation in charges. I don't shoot any true match rifles, this works for me.

For the really big cases, I have a Redding 3BR. It work well with Traiboss and the Nitro Express cases.

Pretty much the same drill with the 3BR as the BR-30.

The micrometer spindle is a great feature, get your load, write down the setting in your load notes and you can dial it back in within a couple of tenth's of a grain. It speeds up loading dramatically.

Really like the Redding's, never used a Harrel, probably is better, but what I have is accurate and repeatable enough for me.

[megasupermagnum]

I just looked up costs for the RCBS chargemaster. WOW! $350? The most expensive Harrel is less than that.

[David2011]

That’s really a broad question. Most measures will throw ball powders very accurately. Of all my measures my RCBS Uniflow is the most troublesome. It does OK with ball powders and fair with flake powders. It’s not very consistent with stick powders at all. The old Saeco that I got from a friend is excellent with stick and flake powders. The drum on them is hard chromed and ground to fit the body so its precision is better than most drum type measures.

For small volumes of loading I’ll use my Chargemaster. It’s as accurate as my beam scales and no time is wasted trying to get it to drop exactly the right charge. It gets the job for up to 50-60 rounds. For more than that I’m probably not loading for hunting or rifle competition so I’ll load on a Dillon using the Dillon measure.

Not every application calls for the absolute best accuracy attainable so I’ve learned to match the powder and measure to the purpose for which the loads are intended. For example, the best group from my primary hunting rifle is 0.324” but that was not with the bullet I use for hunting. I get groups of about 7/8” (at 100 yd) with my preferred hunting bullet and a velocity that matches the bullet drop reticle out to 500 yards. I can hit an 8” plate at 500 all day with that load so that’s good enough for me.

[303Guy]

I mounted a vibrator onto the side of my RCBS powder measure. That improves charge accuracy quite a bit with stick powders like H4350.

[44Blam]

For my high volume pistol rounds I use the RCBS chargemaster lite. What I found is that it will throw about 120-130 charges for each 100 good charges. Anything else, I use my RCBS beam scale. With the beam scale, I get into a rhythm where I generally throw a good charge from a dipper...

[artu44]

My outfit for rifle round is composed by Foster powder measure on digital scale coupled with powder trickler Powder measures are too inconsistent (too much difference if hopper is full or half full) so all my loads are digitally weighted

[kevin c]

I load pistol only for the action pistol sports, where the maximum scoring area on the target is 6"X11" and shot at distances from point blank back to maybe thirty yards or so. The Dillon measure that came with my progressive is accurate to a tenth of a grain with the right powder, and the powder I most frequently load is a extruded short stick that meters extremely well, so volumetric metering is good enough for me.

[georgerkahn]

Swamp Fox -- I do pretty much as you do. A lot, however, depends upon the powder. I seem to be able to drop Bullseye, round after round, at pretty much identical amounts from the stock Dillon 550 powder measure. Try, say, Trail Boss, and it's all over the place. For powders like this, I set measure for roughly a grain or two less, zeroing the primed, empty case first on a Dillon Determinator scale. After the initial charging I remove case, and then "top it off" with a Hornady bench mounted trickler. I then return case to 550, rotate to insert/seat a bullet, etc... Bion, the added step does slow production rate down considerably -- but, not that much, imho to not make it worth the effort.
geo

[Texas by God]

My 40 year old Redding takes just a few throws to set up- then load away at full charge weight. For the Lee scoops I have an aluminum bowl with a copper wire strung through it as a leveler. I stole this idea from a poster here and it works great.

[quail4jake]

This is a great conversation among experts, I'm learning a lot about our methodology! I have found that my best loads are less sensitive to small charge weight variations and have focused more on mechanics and finding the "sweet spot" than on precisely weighing charges. That being said I looked at ways to make my volume measures more consistent and these are a few things I've noticed:
-the Redding bench mount measure wins for function and ease of adjustment, I changed my RCBS to a case activated measure on my progressive machine with the small cylinder and it works well there but was difficult as a bench measure.
- I found that rigidly mounting the bench measure made charging less consistent so I mounted it to a small board weighted to about 4 lb with sheet lead and soft rubber bumpers on the bottom. This keeps it stuck to the bench so it doesn't skid around and gives it a solid but forgiving feel when the charge lever is thrown. This completely changed volume charging stick powders and I can reliably throw charges of IMR 4895 etc.
- Technique and feeling "as one" with the measure is everything. Ball and flake powders are easy, larger stick powders require a sense of how the throw feels. The first two throws are outside of acceptable precision but three on are consistent, if I feel too much bumping or resistance as the rotor closes I throw that one back. Same speed, same feel, same sound every time; if I weigh those charges they are very consistent. If I break the cycle, the bench is bumped or something didn't feel right I throw out the next two charges then resume.
-I adjust the case activated measure by five charges thrown to amplify the error on very small powder charges and keep a consistent pace and feel with the progressive loader.
-I measure black powder in copper measures made from tubing and strike the top with the flask spout. I calibrate these to a specific powder and check the calibration before I use it. I have found no circumstance in which weighing blackpowder helps.
-If I find that a load requires precise powder weight I look at the mechanics of that load in that firearm and usually find something that can be improved. I have found that if I change the things that seem wrong then work up a new load that sensitivity is greatly reduced and volume measuring becomes more practical.
Just a few thoughts...anyone calibrate powder and shot bushings for a Hornady-Pacific 366?...

[largom]

I weigh every charge for every round regardless of which powder or which measure(RCBS or LEE) I am using. It just doesn't take me that long in the sequence of loading & thus I am confident I am not over or undercharging any of my rounds.
( Yes, I am OCD about it, but it is "my" way & if ya don't like it, too bad. ;) )

I generally set the measure to throw at, or just under the desired amount & then I throw each charge by raising & lowering the handle, but tapping the handle 2x at each point in the swing top & bottom to make sure I am getting a consistent load without any "bridging" occurring.

Then, when necessary, I trickle the charge up to the desired weight if it was not thrown correctly. If I see that I am having to trickle more & more than before, then I will check the measure & reset it as necessary to get it back to throwing "on" or just under, & then return to loading.

I "test" 8-10 throws before I start to load any rounds to confirm the setting just to make sure I am not going to have to be stopping the sequence to test the measure, unless I begin to get inconsistent readings on the scale. As the powder in the measure drops, I occasionally have to reset the measure for some powders & if I were not checking each round as I go, it is possible that I would keep getting less & less charge as I went on, so to prevent that, & for "peace of mind", I just measure each one.

I even weigh powders I have first volume weighed with a scoop measure just to verify each one, but like I said, that is "my way", and if others do not choose to do so, that is fine with me...

Of course, like many things, we each do our own "thing", IOW, YMMV, and as long as one follows the safety procedures as proscribed in most if not all reloading manuals, one can measure powders any way they like, either in batches/occasionally, just once or twice, or individually, such as I mention here for what "I" do.

I find this type of topic interesting, as it tends to show the differences in ones way of looking at things & just confirms that we all walk different paths to get to the same destination in the end... Each enjoying their "own way" of doing things.
;)

Same here. I try to make each round as perfect as I can. Perhaps not necessary but thats how I do it!

[charlie b]

I did not see where changes during a loading session or size of powder charge are mentioned.

Some powder measures have a baffle inside to let them throw a consistent charge no matter how much powder is in the hopper. Many do not. My Lee's (I have three of them) do not and they will change with the amount of powder in the hopper. I wish I could justify getting a Redding or similar benchrest quality measure (or a good automatic measure), but, I can't.

For pistol I do not weigh. My Lee auto disk is mounted on my press (Lee Loadmaster). I do check about every 20 rnds to make sure I am still in the ballpark. +/- 0.1 or 0.2gn is not a big deal for me as 1) I am not a bullseye shooter and 2) I do not load at max pressures. I do have the adjustable 'disk' but rarely use it. I mainly use AA powders which measure well.

For rifle I use the Lee Deluxe Perfect. I also had their press mounted version but don't use it anymore since I weigh rifle loads. I have checked accuracy for a ton of loads. Mostly these days I use Varget and Re15 or similar stick powders.

.223 loads are very consistent with a full hopper. 10 loads in a row right on the mark is not unusual, but, then it will throw one .2gn low or high (which is why I measure for it). If I only want MOA accuracy that .2gn does not make any difference for me with that round. To keep .5MOA I measure.

.308 loads with same measure are +/- .2gn at best. It will throw 3 or 4 in a row on the mark but then get random again. .30-06 is about the same.

FWIW, I watched quite a few BR shooters over the years and only recall seeing a couple who did not measure. A lot of them would throw a charge, measure, then fill the cartridge with a drop tube. There are many videos of them at the range reloading bench if you want to watch them in action.

Sent from my SM-P580 using Tapatalk

[gnoahhh]

For a scale I use an RCBS 10-10, with another one new in the box setting on the sidelines. For measures I use three: a home made measure that mimics the old Pacific, an old Belding&Mull, and a fairly recent Harrell. The home built one has several brass rotors providing pre-determined charges of Bullseye and Unique for my go-to pistol loads. The B&M gets the call when I'm feeling nostalgic (and when doing pistol loads different from my standby's) and the Harrell see's service for rifle loads. The B&M and Harrell gives very uniform charges- I honestly can't tell an accuracy difference between charges thrown from them and those weighed individually, even with bulky stick powders. Of course when metering ball powders it's even more of a moot point as both dispense charges dead nuts perfectly.

Of course when doing very small batches of rifle ammo I just weigh each one and be done with it, based on whether or not it'll take longer to set up a measure than it will to weigh a few.

[glaciers]

I use a RCBS Little Dandy for handgun and small rifle. I use a Lyman 55 for extruded powders, and have a Uni-Flo for the same. The Lyman gets used and the Uni-Flow collects dust. As others have said: consistency, check every 5 to 10 charges. The Little Dandy works great for the ball and flake powders.
I don't trust electronic scales as they are going to fail at some point. That failure can be starting with inconsistent drops that you might not notice at first, but.............. It will fail. I use a double beam scale and it's trust worthy every time. The electronics on my beam scale have never failed.

[gwpercle]

Old school dippers most of the time for handgun loads 90% and a Lyman 55 measure for rifle loads 10% .

[dwtim]

I have the RCBS Uniflow and the 5-0-5 scale. Process depends on powder. The Uniflow binds-up with many short-granule stick powder, so I generally don't buy those. Long granule I measure every single charge dropped.

For normal powders, such as ball or flake: When setting the charge for the first time, I throw three or four charges and re-check, dumping the powder back into the hopper, until the charge is consistent. Then I do one row of five cases, checking each. If I feel that the cylinder in the measure is either too easy or it "crunches" when I rotate it, I manually check the charge. (In this case, it's usually off. I use a tiny spoon to either bring down the charge to the correct weight, or use my trickler if it's short.

When everything settles in, I throw five charges, and check the last. I do this until the whole block is done. Then I shine a flashlight into each case, and pull any case for measuring that has a charge that looks off. Then I put the bullets in, so as to keep any foreign material from the charge.

[quack1]

For rifle loads, I set the charge tube on my Belding & Mull measure with a depth mic. I use a sheet of paper listing charge tube depths and powder for all my standard loads, in addition to having the same information in my loading notebook. Then, I check weigh the first couple charges to make sure I set the mic right and didn't transpose any numbers. If it weighs what it's supposed to, I go ahead and charge all the brass I have ready, checking the weight of every 10th load.
For pistol, I use a Lyman 55, and after setting the sections of the cylinder with a caliper from my sheet of measurements for each standard pistol load, throw ten charges to settle the powder in the hopper. I check weigh the next couple and if they're right, charge the brass, weighing every 10th throw, unless the cylinder feels funny or hangs up, then I dump that charge back in the hopper.
After all the primed brass, rifle or pistol, is charged, I visually check each case's powder depth with a flashlight. If all look the same, then I seat bullets.
When I am trying new loads, I scale every every one.

[quail4jake]

Oh yeah, powder flow baffle, got to have it...this is the only way to keep the flow density uniform from full tube to a little above the baffle. When the level is close to the baffle charge weights change and become less reliable. Given the very tall shot tube for the Hornady 366 the baffle is very necessary as without it shot charges can vary up to 20%!

[gnoahhh]

For rifle loads, I set the charge tube on my Belding & Mull measure with a depth mic.

Darn, why didn't I think of that!!

[RED BEAR]

I use a lyman 55 and it throws very consistent but i still weigh every load. I have always been a little anal about that.

[Texas by God]

Something else good about Lyman 55s is that with a few wraps of tape on the threads it will fit in the Lee powder thru expanding flare dies. And works a treat.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[tankgunner59]

I am by no means a match shooter. That being said, I use a Lee Perfect Powder Measure that came with my anniversary kit. I start by getting the measure set to the proper charge weight, then I throw 10 charges weighing numbers 5 and 10 if they all are within .1 to .2 grains of the setting. If there is a larger discrepancy I re-set my measure and start again. Dumping all the previous charges back into the original container. (I've only ever had to do that once and it was an operator mistake) Once I am satisfied with my setup, I will run my batch of reloads. Then I'll check the last 1 or 2 throws, if they are within limits I'm satisfied.

[Kraschenbirn]

I own several measures...a couple of Lees, a Lyman 55, and two Dillons...but my 'go to' is the old reliable Belding & Mull. With H4895 or AA2015 - the two stick powders I use the most - variance is consistently less than .2 grain and, usually, less than .1. Even then, for my rifle ammo, I measure for each and every round, setting the drop tube around a half grain on the low side and trickling up to the desired charge.

For my handgun ammo, unless doing load development, I use either the factory Dillon measure on my SBD or, on my 450, a slightly modified Lee Auto Disk.

Bill

[Petander]

Lately I have been setting the powder measure a little low, then weighing every load and bringing them up to the correct weight with a little extra powder from a spent casing. My group sizes have shrunk, and I have less variations in velocity. But it sure is time consuming.

I have done the same for 20 years. But only for my important match/long range 300 WM competition/hunting ammo. At 100 meters I can not really tell a difference but 300 m is more revealing... also,it's the confidence of known weight that may make me shoot better.

I just happened to use the powder measure today for ultralight (103 grain) practise bullets,no weighing by hand.

Would this 100 m / 5 shot group be smaller with manually weighed charges? If so,how much smaller? What size is small enough? These are 10 cent practise bullets,by the way,Sako 145A. And that 11 o' clock flyer is typical me...

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