I need to ease up on my equipment. Ideas? Experiences?

[dwtim]

Hello Wise Ones of the Silver Stream! My casting equipment is telling me to ease up.

I busted two of my favorite Lee molds last year, and I'm looking at my equipment--it looks a lot older than it is. I chewed through two mold "mallets", and the last one is really just a 2x2 I grabbed because I needed something. I noticed today when I cast, it's kind of loud. One to three whacks to cut the sprue, a couple bangs on the elbow of the mold, and bullets banging on a sheet metal ramp. After my stroke, I have difficulty controlling the force I apply when I do tasks that require gross motor skills. As a result, I also suspect that I'm not being good a neighbor because of the noise. If I don't be careful, that will pay unwanted dividends later.

I've already bought a metal basket, and I plan to set it on foam to stop the bullet fall/roll noise. I am thinking a bent pipe to pop the sprue, and a rubber mallet?

What do you suggest? Anyone else have this problem? Thank you for reading.

[Beerd]

If I do everything right I can use a gloved hand to open the sprue plate, no noise at all.
And my Lee 6 cavity mounds have that third handle.
..

[Rcmaveric]

I dont really hit anything. I use a small peice of dowel rod. I open the sprue with my gloved hand. Then tap the hinge bolt with the dowel. I could probably use my nuckle. But using a tool feela more natural.

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[country gent]

Try several little things here. 1 cast slightly hotter or faster. This keeps the mould and sprue plate closer to temp making cutting sprue easier. Try a small cap hammer in the 6-8 0z range, better is a dead blow in this range as it pushes more. When cutting sprues the mallet/hammer stroke isn't so much a blow but a controlled push thru the sprue plate. Tapping the hinge is light taps and even centered on the bolt head.
My small hammers both a 8 oz cap and slim head dead blow have cast many bullets and show little to no wear. Don't watch the hammer / mallet but watch the edge of the sprue plate where you want the force. Since I have grip issues with these smaller handles I wrapped the dead blow with a 72" leather Boot lace. This increased the size about 1/4" around and made a much more comfortable grip for me. What you want from the mallet is more a push thru than a blow or heavy strike.

[Paper Puncher]

I drop my boolits on a old towel.

One member here made a stand to hold the sprue plate while he turned the mold, no banging on it required.

[RU shooter]

I'm another that uses a gloved hand to open the sprue plate on my Lee moulds . I use a one inch wood dowel about 10" long to give its tap or two to get some sticky bullets to drop.never had to beat on it .

[Hickory]

Treat you molds like you treat your women. You don't beat on them.
And like a woman, if the gloves go on, handle both your molds and your woman with gentleness and finesse.

[GhostHawk]

Have to agree with Hickory.

I am slowly switching everything over to Lee 6 cavity molds.

For my doubles I use a piece of half inch PVC pipe with some lead in the end.
Opens sprues with authority, does not damage molds.

[georgerkahn]

Waaay back, Hensley & Gibbs used to purvey a mould for casting spru- hammers. Matter of fact, if I recall, there once was one on this site which was passed to members, but somewhere/sometime got lost or ???? -- regardless, I never had the opportunity.
A fellow on eBay had one, though, and sold hammers he cast with it at a really high price, and :) I was gifted one from a friend I had cast some bullets for as a "thank you". Kind of really dinged up, but I still use this hammer. If you can find one, imho, that's the way to go. I wish I could find another as, again, mine's really showing its age/usage.
geo

[LenH]

I use a lead hammer (home made) for 6 & 8 cavity molds. The handle is a piece of all thread about 10 inches long. The head is cast using a 3/4"ø copper tee that is split
down the middle and held together with hose clamps and the two ends are capped with a cee clamp and two can lids. I wrap the all thread with tape just to make it easier
to handle. Mostly I use a gloved hand to open up to 4 cavity unless I let my mind wander and it is too hard to open. Those old H&G 6 & 8 cavity are beast from the get go.

There is a sticky some where in the archives with detailed instructions on how to make one. I made one with a 1"ø tee but it was too big.

[Huskerguy]

Well, this is an interesting thread.

The bullet I cast the most is a 158 grain SWC using a Lee TL double and a Lyman steel four banger. I like both bullets and during a session, which lately is not nearly often enough, I used both. I didn't think the Lyman was quite as accurate as the Lee when I shot them but I tried them both again a while back and I think I may of just been having a bad hair day.

Anyway, the Lyman works very well, I use a dead blow hammer from Harbor Freight some but mostly a 2x2 works just fine. I whack or two and the bullets fall out onto a wet towel. The Lee is a different story. From the day it was new, it has been a pain. I tried everything to get it to release to no avail. The sprue is shorter for the two cavity mold and in a different angle and I have to whack it much harder. It almost always leaves a little flange on the bottom no matter how tight I tighten the screw. Then the real problem is getting the bullets out. Rarely do they just fall out. I assumed it was the TL groves that caused this problem. Maybe not. So I use the end of an ice pick to push them out, usually one or both require this. Then the mold never has closed in perfect alignment so I have to "tap" it with the mallet or my glove to get it lined up properly.

One of the reasons I go back and forth is the steel Lyman about wears me out it is so heavy! Of course the sprue cutter on both are in different configurations which also makes things interesting.

Any ideas on how to get the Lee mold to perform better would be appreciated. I am not a big fan of the aluminum as it marks up so easily. I have pock marks all over the top from pushing the bullets out over the years. I definitely did not treat this mold like my wife!

[jdfoxinc]

I.use a rawhide mallet.

[skeettx]

Wood (hickory) hammer handle

[mdi]

When I worked in a HE repair shop we kept lead hammers handy. Good for "persuading" tight boom pins without marring them. The ones we used were 5 lb., and when they got too "mushroomed" we assigned a helper to remelt and cast up some heads. For sprue opening a smaller lead hammer would prolly work well, like 1- 1 1/2 lbs. LenH's sounds like it would work well. Very quiet too.

I too drop my freshly case bullets on a folded towel in a large cake pan. Most of my molds are Lee and I have no trouble getting bullets out, maybe a whack with a mallet on the hinge, or just a shake will loosen the stubborn ones, but I "prepare" my molds (when new a few heat/cool cycles on my hot plate helps the break in process) and don't put anything in the cavities. I think a rubber hammer/mallet would not deliver enough ummmph to reliably open sprues, too soft.

[stubshaft]

I.use a rawhide mallet.

I also open the sprue with gloved hand.

[fredj338]

Once the mold is hot, glove handling of the sprue plate is pretty easy. Until that though, I have to use a stick to bang the sprue plate open. I cast in my garage so not really worried about any noise issues.

[Walks]

I used a Hickory Hatchet Handle for 30 Years. But it disappeared. Bought another, bur it seemed too light. I looked at Harbor freight & Lowes, nothing was right.
While I was digging around for something else I found a 12" handled, 2" wide head plastic mallet. I had bought it for my Kids 30yrs prior, to pound their own tent stakes with. It's done about 30,000 bullets in the last 3yrs. It's showing wear, and I'll probably replace it with a smallish dead blow hammer in time.

[RED BEAR]

I use a hickory handle and have never had a problem. I am generally not very easy on things. Wife says i am a brute. I have broke things all my life. Whiworking on a mill i would make draw bars 20 or 30 at a time. I broke a one inch bolt off and boss said you can't break one of those with gust a wrench claimed i had to of used a pipe over the wrench. So i had to prove it to him. He just walked away shaking his head. I have broke a lot of bolts but never had something come loose. As i have gotten older i am a bit easier on things because i am just not as strong as i used to be. Its probably a good thing.

[smithnframe]

I certainly would not use a "bent pipe" I use hickory hammer handles!

[pworley1]

I use a foot long miniature baseball bat I turn out of hickory many years ago. It is barely marked. You only have to tap the sprue cutter, not hit it.

[dwtim]

Thank you, all! So many great suggestions. Some so obvious, I slapped myself in the head.

[kevin c]

All my current molds have the cammed Lee sprue plate handle. The casts drop onto a padded surgical towel (heavy twill instead of terry cloth) on top of a fiber board that in turn sits over a towel lined metal pan. As the next pour cools in the mold, I do a quick inspection then push the fresh casts aside before cutting the sprue and dumping. As needed I'll tilt the loaded board into the pan to clear it. No dents or rattling with the towels in place.

Despite the sprue cutter, I still have to tap the hinge bolt on the handles to get the occasional recalcitrant boolit to drop. Steel needle nose pliers scarred up the bolts and the bolts messed up my expensive brass hammers. Wooden broom handles splintered. Dead blow hammers were hard to get in the right size and the plastic coating melted. I haven't been able to find a lead headed hammer, but I did just get a lead loaded rawhide hammer that will try out once I'm off injured reserve.

[DonH]

For single and double cavity molds I also cut the sprue with a gloved hand. Pre-heating the mold plus heating the sprue plate in the melt puts me at near casting temp for the first pour. Then I cast fast for the first 10 or so pours. By then the mold is up to temp. The sprue does not have to be hard, only cool enough to not smear when the plate is opened. Some molds require striking the hinge bolt for the bullet to drop. For that a hammer or broom handle or piece of dowel works fine.
On the rare occasions I cast with a 4 cavity mold I may use more persuasion.
Lee 1 and 2 cavity molds need all the gentle handling they can get.

[Walter Laich]

to add something different:

when I start out I cast just one cavity. after a couple of casts I do two then 3 etc

It keeps the sprue plate from needing to be hit and also helps in not having the cam lever break.

I cast hot and fast and this keeps me from needing to hit lever with anything

best of luck

[Rcmaveric]

If my Lee molds aren't dropping easily i will run a qtip around the edges to look for burs. I dont find any, i will scrap an exacto knife around the mold cavity edges. Some times the mold edges can be so perfect sharp ( or the shape) that the alloy can expands and grips them when it cools. By breaking the mold cavity edgest it helps. Only had a couple molds do that and need that out over a dozen.

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[Drew P]

If my Lee molds aren't dropping easily i will run a qtip around the edges to look for burs. I dont find any, i will scrap an exacto knife around the mold cavity edges. Some times the mold edges can be so perfect sharp ( or the shape) that the alloy can expands and grips them when it cools. By breaking the mold cavity edgest it helps. Only had a couple molds do that and need that out over a dozen.

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I’m fairly certain lead doesn’t expand when solidifying. But, to my surprise I’ve read recent accounts of bullets growing over time after casting but that’s not what we are talking about.

[Drew P]

I’m interested to see some of these lead mallets and how they work, like how the head is attached and replaced

I’m using a mini rawhide mallet which was very hard to find but I like it a lot, however it does almost need a little more mass to it, it’s great for when temps are stable and hot, but for initial spruce cutting it takes a hard swing sometimes.

[Traffer]

I have a particularly soft piece of wood. 1 1/4" x 9/16" "stick" It gets chewed up fast but doesn't hurt the mold.

[kevin c]

I’m interested to see some of these lead mallets and how they work, like how the head is attached and replaced

I’m using a mini rawhide mallet which was very hard to find but I like it a lot, however it does almost need a little more mass to it, it’s great for when temps are stable and hot, but for initial spruce cutting it takes a hard swing sometimes.
Drew P:

The lead weighted rawhide mallet I got might suit you. The brand is Garland. There are a couple weights available. Not anywhere near cheap, but it might be just the thing. I got mine on sale at Seattle Findings, a jeweler's supply company on line, but I've seen the hammers available other places on line.

[Rcmaveric]

I’m fairly certain lead doesn’t expand when solidifying. But, to my surprise I’ve read recent accounts of bullets growing over time after casting but that’s not what we are talking about.Each mold is designed for a certain alloy. When the alloy freezes, finnal size is dependent on alloy make up. Higher your antimony levels the smaller your diameter and vis versa. Not so much as an expansion as it is less shrinkage on solidifying. Sorry on my poor word choice.

Breaking mold edges was something i read once. Because sometimes your cavity can be ever so slightly off center. Just enough the edge starts to wrap back around. Couple that with an alloy that shrinks less and you got a bullet that is hard to knock loose. Theres an article i read some where about lube grooves being the shape they are to help keep the bullets from locking and sticking to the mold.

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[RED BEAR]

I use a foot long miniature baseball bat I turn out of hickory many years ago. It is barely marked. You only have to tap the sprue cutter, not hit it.


I’m interested to see some of these lead mallets and how they work, like how the head is attached and replaced

I’m using a mini rawhide mallet which was very hard to find but I like it a lot, however it does almost need a little more mass to it, it’s great for when temps are stable and hot, but for initial spruce cutting it takes a hard swing sometimes.

The ones i used at work had a bolt imbedded in the lead and screwed onto the hammer body same as the plastic heads not these aren't bought but made in house.

[GregLaROCHE]

Maybe try cutting the sprue a little sooner, when it’s hotter and softer. I don’t understand having to use so much force.

[RoGrrr]

Hello Wise Ones of the Silver Stream! My casting equipment is telling me to ease up.

[SNIP]
I chewed through two mold "mallets", and the last one is really just a 2x2 I grabbed because I needed something.
[SNIP]
I've already bought a metal basket, and I plan to set it on foam to stop the bullet fall/roll noise. I am thinking a bent pipe to pop the sprue, and a rubber mallet?
[SNIP]


Tim
I understand your dilemma when it comes to sprue hammers. I did that same thing, went thru a couple of hickory hammer handles and was learning plenty of new swear words in the process.
I also tried your bent pipe. Worked but not optimum, since I had to pick 'this' up and....

Necessity is the Mother-(no street-slang necessary)-of-Invention.

I wanted to be able to control "with feeling" my sprue plate so I made this. Nothing to pick up and handle.
While the way I built it might SEEM a bit extravagant, I used what I happened to have 'under the bench'.
Hope this idea helps you.

245968
245969
245970
245971

Guys, granted, the last pic is a bit backwards. Don't rag on me. The pic was for convenience, rather than undoing everything to make it "look pretty".

Also, if you look at your sprue plate, at the "point/EDGE" which CUTS the sprue, some plates might not be "countersunk" to a sharp edge. Consequently, you must PLOW the sprue, rather than SLICING it off.
I have a WELDON countersink (if memory serves, it's 82*, but it really doesn't matter what angle you use) which I used to fully countersink the sprue plate which reduced the amount of force necessary to remove the sprue. Some people will say that the sharp edge is fragile and might get bent/distorted and scar the top surface of the mould block. Bottom line here - you have to be careful and not let that happen. Treat it like your favorite gun/WIFE/GIRLFRIEND !
Let your imagination run with....

I forgot to mention that I clamped it to my workbench You might wanna do the same if you build this contraption.

[HandsOff]

I.use a rawhide mallet.

Same here. They work well. They'll take some abuse, and heat doesn't seem to bother them.

[Smoke4320]

Shovel handle cut down to about 12" and wrapped with a old leather belt

[white eagle]

I never hit the mold I just give the handles a whack to release stubborn boolits

[dwtim]

Hi folks,

Just wanted to thank everyone for their input. I generally changed my routine to be gentle as possible (suggestion: Hickory, Ghosthawk.) I switched to gloved hand / manually opening except for four-gang molds, (suggested by Beerd, Rcmaveric, RU shooter, stubshaft, fredj338, and DonH.) I switched up my routine so I cut the sprue immediately after the pour, (country gent, Walter Laich.) Couldn't find an old towel but I used a pile of old rag socks as suggested by Paper Punch, mdi, and kevin c. I bought a dead blow hammer--afterword I realized I had a rawhide mallet hanging up in the garage! (Suggestion by Huskerguy, jdfoxinc.)

And thanks for the idea for the mold opener. I was thinking of something more complicated and made of wood, but it doesn't get much simpler than your idea, RoGrrr.

My ears and my neighbors thank you. It's much quieter in here!