Question about AR Trigger

[nekshot]

When I watch the hammer(ar15) as I pull the trigger to fire the hammer moves back a little bit. Obviously That produces a heavy pull. Only remedy other than lighter hammer spring is to get angle correct at trigger\ hammer. Any new tricks from the black gun bunch?

[M-Tecs]

Lots of info one the web.

https://www.arbuildjunkie.com/how-to-perform-ar-15-trigger-job/

https://www.bing.com/search?q=AR15+GI+trigger+job&FORM=WNSFC2&PC=DCTE&nclid=00D3425B4A90B0F9852EAF7046652732

https://www.bing.com/search?q=How+deep+is+the+case+hardening+on+AR15+tr iggers&input=2&nclid=00D3425B4A90B0F9852EAF7046652732&FORM=WNSBOX&cc=US&setlang=en-US

[lefty o]

buy a quality trigger. recutting the factory one is a no go. as they are only case hardened and anything other than the most very minor polishing will cut through it.

[LUCKYDAWG13]

if your looking for a upgrade I think this is about the best trigger you can get for the money https://www.larue.com/category/parts-accessories/lower-parts/triggers/

[DougGuy]

I am VERY pleased with the enhanced group from PSA: PSA AR15/PA10 EPT - Enhanced Polished Fire Control Group - 507797

[M-Tecs]

Not all AR stock triggers are created equal. Most are case hardened but with case hardening soak time determines the depth of the case. I normally only build match or service rifles so most shooters want 2-stage triggers but I have reworked a lot of stock triggers for newer competitors. On the GI triggers the case should be .010" to .016" deep. On some of the non GI triggers the case is a lot less and they don't last long with or without stoning. Lightly stoned the GI triggers never seem to fail. I have done maybe 40 or 50 sets. I have seen non GI triggers that were lightly stoned that didn't last 1,500 rounds. On the flip side I am still using my original Milazzo-Krieger Model M-K II that I purchased from Charlie around 1995. This trigger has at least 50K on it and zero wear.

About a year ago PSA had an outstanding price on 308 complete uppers and lowers. I ordered two and they came with the enhanced trigger group that DougGuy refers to. I only have a couple of hundred rounds through each but I agree with Doug that they are very nice and they are only $29.99 from PSA. They are currently out of stock. Not sure if what the list price is but on sale they are $29.99.

[Iowa Fox]

Some LPKs have nice triggers to work with. Coupled with JP springs and a grips adjusting screw I can get some pretty nice GI triggers, takes me most of a day to put a LPK kit in.
https://rouschsports.com/shop/uncategorized/ar15-grip-screw-trigger-creep-adjuster/

[jmort]

I have been using POF triggers
They work well for me
I like the KNS anti-walk pins that come with the triggers as part of the package

[nekshot]

Thanks to all for your input.My ar now has one of the sweetest trigger pulls I could have hoped for. All it took was my diamond file set!

[JeepHammer]

Back in '99/'00 I posted the .50¢ trigger job article, and it's been copied/misquoted to no end.
I finally took the site down because it was so misquoted and cobbled up by others I didn't want the comments/blame when people screwed it up...

This is something that goes back to the early 70s where I learned it, and long before 'Super Duper' trigger replacements...
It's something that competitive service rifle shooters did that came from special forces armorers, and probably from factory gunsmiths before that...

We did it to 'Service Rifles' since it wasn't obvious the rifle had been modified, we didn't get busted.
I happened to be in a branch of the service that valued marksmenship, and in a unit that required marksmenship above all else.

We removed the hammer/trigger and polished the sear surfaces ON LEATHER, this was a polish to remove burrs, NOT REMOVE MATERIAL.
These parts are case hardened, and you can EASILY stone through the case hardening.

NEVER, EVER TRY TO HAND STONE SEAR SURFACES!
There is no way to hold the parts EXACTLY in the correct orientation to the stone without jigs/fixtures, and you will just screw up the square machine cut surfaces.
(And this is coming from a gunsmith/machinist)

Once deburred/polished, reinstall.

We removed the safety/fire selector.
We removed the pistol grip.
We ran a 1/4" long set screw in the pistol grip handle hole, up against the back side of the trigger.

When we got the trigger release right where we wanted it, by pushing up on the back of the trigger,
We stoned the disconnect to trigger surface until it functioned properly.
If you don't know how to do a fire/safety function test on an AR lower, then learn how BEFORE you start this.

Once the disconnect functioned properly,
Then the exposed trigger showing in the selector switch hole had to be marked and ground away.
This allows the selector switch to first install, then to function correctly.

This produces a 'Match' quality trigger for about .50¢ for a set screw & loc-tite.

To de-temper hammer/trigger springs, simply heat them up, let them cool at room temp.
You can also bend the legs with a pair of pliers to take load off the trigger. Bending allows you to bend back if you take too much out.

When installed in an M-16, you also have to modify the disconnector tail inside the back of the trigger so full auto operates.

Since it wasn't obvious the military let us get away with it in service rifle matches and on 'Field' rifles since shooting scores were the Alpha & Omega, and armorers were overlooked when doing this modification.

I just saw a YouTube video where a former Delta member talked about this modification being done in '88 before the unlimited budget military existed, and it was common in '79-80 when I was on marksmenship teams and infield units that required long range accuracy from a standard issue M-16A2.
We were still doing it regularly in '95 when I exited the military, so it's not really a 'Secret'...

[gnostic]

I wouldn't mess with the trigger on a AR. In addition to being dangerous for the reasons mentioned above. I'd be afraid the ATF or some other LEO, might take exception if your AR decided to go full auto at the range...

[JeepHammer]

I wouldn't mess with the trigger on a AR. In addition to being dangerous for the reasons mentioned above. I'd be afraid the ATF or some other LEO, might take exception if your AR decided to go full auto at the range...

When it's done correctly, no more chance of going full auto than any other factory trigger.
I've done hundreds since the 70s with no issues at all.
You can bounce the rifle off it's butt plate on the floor and the hammer won't trip.
It's just a 'Field' trigger with the pre-break 'Creep' mostly taken out of it (I usually leave just a little).

Stone/file/grind through the case hardening on hammer/trigger sear, and you will eventually (usually sooner than later) have a run away hammer.

[gnostic]

You're probably right, I caved in from the start and installed a JP trigger group and speed hammer. It's OK, but I'm thinking of sending it to JP to see if they can get the creep completely out. My trigger has a very small amount of take-up where the first stage was and then breaks clean at 3.5lbs. It's hardly noticeable, except when I'm trying to shoot small groups. I know it's a different animal, but I'm used to the triggers on my 40XB, 40XR, Rem 600 or XP-100.