What Case Trimmers do you all like and recommend?

[Oyeboten]

I need to trim down a bunch of .357 Maximum so they will be not quite 1/8th of an inch shorter.

I have never done any Case Trimming before, and looking on-line, there are so many different Case Trimmers out there, most looking to be a lot more expensive than they need to be, and I was having trouble deciding which one to get.

A used one would be fine, but, similarly, I just do not know anything about any of them to be able to decide which make and model I ought to get.

Any suggestions?

[georgerkahn]

Me? I have both a Redding and Lyman little lathe type trimmers which have collected dust here for years. I "discovered" the Wilson, have case holders for each of the 30 calibers I load, and never cease to be impressed with its repeatability. A tapered sleeve is what holds and supports you case, so each and every trimming comes out the same. Perhaps my own ineptness, but I could never get this repeatability from the trimmers employing collets on case head to hold them. I just Googled and found a YouTube on it -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxsNP_5eDVg -- haven't watched it, but... I believe Wilson is not the only maker of this type trimmer -- maybe Forster, too?
Regardless... it's all I use. If you roll crimp 100 or so cases in a loading session, using bullets you put a cannelure on, and see their gorgeous identical appearance -- imho, this tool's beauty speaks for itself.
geo

[Wheelguns 1961]

I have a lyman universal. It ain’t bad.

[TNsailorman]

C&H and Wilson. I like the C&H a little better because it can use the same case holders as Wilson and is quite a bit cheaper. Either will get the job done and very nicely at that. I have and use both. james

[DonMountain]

I have used a Forster case trimmer for 25 or 30 years and have always found it to be easy to use with very repeatable case dimensions when finished. Until recently. When I purchased a used Blue Pacific trimmer to go with my collection of antique Pacific reloading tools for $4.00 on our favorite reloading tool purchasing site. And also discovered that the Forster trimmer and the Pacific trimmer use the same pilots. In fact, it looks like they are all made by the same company. And this $4.00 trimmer does just as good a trimming job as the Forster plus the Pacific uses standard Pacific/Hornady shell holders to mount the cases.

[Winger Ed.]

I've had a Hornady since the early 80's.
It does a good job, takes regular shell holders, and if you're careful,
you can re-sharpen the cutter head after a few thousand cases have been trimmed.
Also, the little hand crank handle comes off so you can put a drill on the shaft.

[metricmonkeywrench]

The Lyman universal is probably a good place to start if your just getting into it, the universal chuck takes most of the normal case sizes and the adjustments are fairly straight forward. A good reliable go to, but watch out for used ones the shaft gets wobbly and the cuts can be a little off. I have one on the shelf for odd jobs, and I have the accessory kit for cutting primer pockets if I want but have not sprung for the carbide cutter yet.

Next up are the Forster or RCBS collet type, a bit of a learning curve to set up but once set up are consistent. Probably the most used out there and plenty on the secondary market. I have gathered a Forster for each rifle caliber I shoot. Plenty of additional accessories, slightly more for the Forster.

The Wilson is up towards the top of the list for precision and consistency. I have one but haven’t been able to use it since it did not come with a base system and I don’t have a vice on my loading bench. My buddy has several set up for each of his rifle calibers and swears by their consistency.

Hope this helps. There are plenty more out there and others will likely chime in with other recommendations.

[RED BEAR]

I like the hornady trimmer but you have to buy there shell holders. And it wouldn't do all calibers ( 25acp ). The shell holders and pilots cost more than the trimmer. But it does an excellent job.

[8mmFan]

Have never used anything but LEE trimmers. They have always worked great. A little tedious, maybe. But they work and are cheap.

[Tom W.]

You gotta be kidding....... I hate trimming. But I have an RCBS that I've used for years. I finally had to request a new cutting head as I got to the point where I couldn't trim .30 Cal cases anymore. What a difference between the new one and the old one!


But that still doesn't make me like trimming any more!

[DonMountain]

I like the hornady trimmer but you have to buy there shell holders. And it wouldn't do all calibers ( 25acp ). The shell holders and pilots cost more than the trimmer. But it does an excellent job.

You are the first person I have ever heard of that regularly trims 25 ACP brass. What do you do to your 25 ACP brass to make it need trimming? As for using only Hornady shell holders in the Hornady/Pacific case trimmers, the hole in the center of the Hornady shell holders is large enough in diameter to fit over the shell clamping mandrel that screws up tight to the bottom of the casing through the shell holder. And all of the other makes of shell holders are just a hair small to fit over this mandrel. But I have drilled out several that I had already after purchasing a Pacific/Hornady case trimmer. Some makes are pretty hard though.

[Bazoo]

1/8" is a lot to try and trim with a lathe trimmer. If I had a bunch to do I'd be looking for a file trim die and use a hacksaw to get them close and finish with a lathe trimmer. However if your set on just getting a lathe trimmer and bearing through it, I suggest the Lyman universal with power attachment and carbide cutter. That's what I use, but with the manual crank. I'd like to pick up the power attachment at some point. When I've trimmed .010 it was tough. I trimmed a 44 mag case down to 44 Russian to make one for my collection and I can't imagine doing any quantity of cases that much.

[JimB..]

If your application can tolerate the brass being a hair shorter you could buy 360DW brass and forget the trimming.

[RED BEAR]

You are the first person I have ever heard of that regularly trims 25 ACP brass. What do you do to your 25 ACP brass to make it need trimming? As for using only Hornady shell holders in the Hornady/Pacific case trimmers, the hole in the center of the Hornady shell holders is large enough in diameter to fit over the shell clamping mandrel that screws up tight to the bottom of the casing through the shell holder. And all of the other makes of shell holders are just a hair small to fit over this mandrel. But I have drilled out several that I had already after purchasing a Pacific/Hornady case trimmer. Some makes are pretty hard though.

Some of the once fired and some of the new brass i buy comes over the trim length. And i just like to have everything the same. If the shaft on the trimmer were smaller so other shell holders would work then i could trim them. Didn't find out it wouldn't work after i bought the trimmer, shell holder and pilot. Ended up making a fixture and doing a little back yard hardening so i can put then in and run a file across to size them. And the little 25acp will grow with enough use.

[Oyeboten]

If your application can tolerate the brass being a hair shorter you could buy 360DW brass and forget the trimming.

Huh!

That is a new Cartridge for me, I had not heard of it before.

Thank you! Might indeed be worth a try!

[kayala]

I have a few trimmers my favorite (and most expensive) is Dillon.

[skeettx]

FIRST, use a trim die and jeweler hacksaw to remove the major portion
You can use a 357 Mag trim die and a #6 extended shell holder
https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/0004418265/357-mag-trim-die

Then I use either a Forster manual

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/269638/forster-original-case-trimmer

or an electric RCBS trimmer

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/693746/rcbs-trim-pro-2-power-case-trimmer-kit

Mike

p.s. gotta ask, why trim in between a 357 Mag and Maximum?
Making cylinder length shotshells?

[gpidaho]

As mentioned, just get some 360 DW cases. Starline has them and they are a bit cheaper and more available than 357 Max. Gp

[JimB..]

Huh!

That is a new Cartridge for me, I had not heard of it before.

Thank you! Might indeed be worth a try!

If you’d like a dozen to play with send me your address.

[Oyeboten]

Me? I have both a Redding and Lyman little lathe type trimmers which have collected dust here for years. I "discovered" the Wilson, have case holders for each of the 30 calibers I load, and never cease to be impressed with its repeatability. A tapered sleeve is what holds and supports you case, so each and every trimming comes out the same. Perhaps my own ineptness, but I could never get this repeatability from the trimmers employing collets on case head to hold them. I just Googled and found a YouTube on it -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxsNP_5eDVg -- haven't watched it, but... I believe Wilson is not the only maker of this type trimmer -- maybe Forster, too?
Regardless... it's all I use. If you roll crimp 100 or so cases in a loading session, using bullets you put a cannelure on, and see their gorgeous identical appearance -- imho, this tool's beauty speaks for itself.
geo

This looks like such a nice Care Trimmer..!

Watching the Video, it does inspire me to imagine how nice uniform Cases might be, when I am re-Loading.

Differences in length do effect Crimp of course and I have felt annoyed with this.

So, having a Case Trimmer for preparing Cartridge Brass for the old S & W New Model 3's chambering, might just be a blessing in general for anything else anyway!

Thanks!

[Oyeboten]

As mentioned, just get some 360 DW cases. Starline has them and they are a bit cheaper and more available than 357 Max. Gp

I did get 100 brand new, unprimed .357 Max Cartridge Cases, and they are sitting right here next to my Computer.

I can ( fine tooth, metal cutting ) Band Saw them to a fairly close length, then, use a Case Trimmer for the final finesse to have them be "just right" and uniform for the perfect length.

[Oyeboten]

If you’d like a dozen to play with send me your address.

Very nice of you to offer Jim!

Thank you!

I think I am in good shape though with the 100 .357 Maximum shells I have gotten.

Getting a nice Case Trimmer will also really add something special to my other occasional re-Loading for Hand Gun, so, it's a "Win Win".

I have been annoyed with how small Case Length variations occasion irregular Crimp results for .44 Special and .38 ACP, so having a nice Case Trimmer will correct all that and make for a quality of result I can be very happy with Crimp uniformity-wise in my Loading.

[Bazoo]

I trim brass on anything that gets a roll crimp, 38 special, 357 mag, 44 mag, 30-30. I get by with not trimming on 45 auto thus far.

[EDG]

I bought my first Forster trimmer in 1975 and it has seen long hard use including shortening hundreds of 30-06 cases to 8X57 and 7.65 Mauser. Each case is shortened about .300 and 100 cases mean you turn 30 inches of brass into shavings. My original cutter is still sharp with this heavy duty use.
I used 5/16"-24 fine thread carburetor nuts and a nut driver to power my trimmer with a drill motor to use for mass material removal.

I have 4 other Forsters that I bought used for about $25 each. They are set up with neck turners and other applications.
I also have 5 Wilson trimmers from 1950s models to a 50 BMG version. They are not used much because of the greater flexibility the Forster tools that I own.

[lightman]

Thats a lot to trim! I probably would use a trim die to get close and then any other conventional trimmer would work.

[fast ronnie]

I've got a collet holder that I use in the milling machine with a counterbore set up with the right diameter pilot. It works very quickly and is very accurate. The holder has a quick release lever, so is simple and quick. Uses standard 5C collets and I buy emergency collets and cut them to the proper size.
I realize this setup is not for everyone, but Forster has a setup for the drill press that works the same way. It's just a little more fussy to set up the length, but works very well. With either setup, you can remove a lot of material very quickly, but is still accurate and repeatable.

[Moleman-]

I have the Lyman and a Forster. I've used the Lyman for 20 years or so and the oilite bushing for the cutter shaft needs to be replaced. $4.75 from Fastenal, so not a huge investment to remove the wobble that took thousands of cases with a heavy drill hanging off of the end to make happen. If you do add a drill, build up a platform so that the weight of it isn't hanging off of the trimmer. You can use a couple washers, deep well sockets and nuts/bolts to remove the install the new bushing when/if ever needed. Forster is nice, but not as heavily built as the lyman. Probably only reamed/trimmed 3-4 thousand cases with it so far and it seems to be holding up well. Wish they would of used large head allen type machine screws to attach the barrels to the base on it though as they occasionally loosen up and are a PITA to get at with a screwdriver when the trimmer is mounted. Think I'll eventually loctite the screws with medium strength loctite.

[robg]

I'm a cheapskate and lazy ,just use the Lee ones ,no measuring inset correct pilot spin in drill job done.

[Reverend Al]

I have 3 Forster bench mounted trimmers (2 different lengths of bases plus one set up specifically in .17 calibre) plus I bought their drill press mounted power trimmer since I already had lots of collets and pilots to fit my existing Forster trimmers. I recently shortened a bunch of .303 British cases to re-form and then fire-form them into .40-50 Sharps Straight and the drill press trimmer shortened the parent cases quickly and easily. Just my 2 cents worth ...

[Dan Cash]

I somehow got started with a Forster. Others have come and gone since 1962 or there abouts but the Forster has stayed and multiplied. I have 7 or 8 of them because I don't like adjusting anything and I load a lot of ammo of same caliber for 2 or more different guns with different length requirements. With a dirlll motor, you can shorten a hundred .30 carbine to .32 ACP length before you can find your trim die.

[Oyeboten]

I bought my first Forster trimmer in 1975 and it has seen long hard use including shortening hundreds of 30-06 cases to 8X57 and 7.65 Mauser. Each case is shortened about .300 and 100 cases mean you turn 30 inches of brass into shavings. My original cutter is still sharp with this heavy duty use.
I used 5/16"-24 fine thread carburetor nuts and a nut driver to power my trimmer with a drill motor to use for mass material removal.

I have 4 other Forsters that I bought used for about $25 each. They are set up with neck turners and other applications.
I also have 5 Wilson trimmers from 1950s models to a 50 BMG version. They are not used much because of the greater flexibility the Forster tools that I own.

Wow!

Can you tell me how the 'Forster' Case Trimmers are more versatile or have advantage over the 'Wilson' ones?

Once I get one, I will be using it for anything and everything I load, so, the more I can understand going in, the better!

[Oyeboten]

I've got a collet holder that I use in the milling machine with a counterbore set up with the right diameter pilot. It works very quickly and is very accurate. The holder has a quick release lever, so is simple and quick. Uses standard 5C collets and I buy emergency collets and cut them to the proper size.
I realize this setup is not for everyone, but Forster has a setup for the drill press that works the same way. It's just a little more fussy to set up the length, but works very well. With either setup, you can remove a lot of material very quickly, but is still accurate and repeatable.

I was earlier thinking I could use a nice sharp Spot Surfacer with a suitable Pilot, in my Drill Press.

That would work well, and be easy, even if not as precise as the Wilson set up with the Micrometer end.

[Dan Cash]

This looks like such a nice Care Trimmer..!

Watching the Video, it does inspire me to imagine how nice uniform Cases might be, when I am re-Loading.

Differences in length do effect Crimp of course and I have felt annoyed with this.

So, having a Case Trimmer for preparing Cartridge Brass for the old S & W New Model 3's chambering, might just be a blessing in general for anything else anyway!

Thanks!

If you are trying to reduce .38 Special to .38 S&W, you will be unhappy with the results. The cases will bulge like crazy as .38 S&W is bigger.

[Bazoo]

Lee makes a case trimmer thing for the drill press if I'm not mistaken, ain't used any of their trimmer items yet myself though.

[Oyeboten]

If you are trying to reduce .38 Special to .38 S&W, you will be unhappy with the results. The cases will bulge like crazy as .38 S&W is bigger.

No...but close! Lol...

I need to shorten .357 Maximum Cases to be about 1/8th of an inch Shorter.

These for use in an S & W New Model 3 chambering the original "38/44" Cartridge, which was/is essentially a long version of the 38 S & W Cartridge, where the Cartridge Brass is the full length of the Cylinder, and the .361 Bullets are inside the case entirely.

Since I can not so far find any original .38/44 empty Brass, I have elected to go with the .357 Maximun, which yes, is a little smaller, or if about .004 smaller in diameter, and I expect it will Fire Form to puff out a little bit.

Here is an image showing some original .38/44 Cartridges, still loaded -

OAL is about 1.465 Inches for the examples shown -

I have about 46 Rounds of original Ammunition but I do not want to fire these and shoot them up, so, I have been looking for empty Brass, and it may be who knows how long before I find any, so, I decided to go with the .357 Maximum Cases, and to shorten them, use an expander die for them accept .361 Bullets, and, give it go from there.
https://media.fotki.com/2v2ETbr6Gx9J4Vm.jpg (https://private.fotki.com/PhilBphil/loading-and-whateve/img-2206.html)Hosted on Fotki (https://www.fotki.com)


https://media.fotki.com/2v2ETbjBTx9J4Vm.jpg (https://private.fotki.com/PhilBphil/loading-and-whateve/img-2209.html)Hosted on Fotki (https://www.fotki.com)

[Oyeboten]

Somewhere out there is someone with a Cigar Box full of the empty, old, not yet de-primed, original .38/44 Brass...and they have no use for them whatever...someone gave them to them years ago.

How do I find that person?

Lol...

[Demeter’s_Workshop]

I make jigs on the 3d printer to cut more than 0.050 off any cases. its faster. then finish or square up on the lyman.

[flyingmonkey35]

I use this one

LEE PRECISION 90670, Deluxe Power Quick Trim Case Trimmer LEE PRECISION 90670, Deluxe Power Quick Trim Case Trimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MHZHS0Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.OKiDb7NGAHPG

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[Efin]

For straight wall brass I'd use my RCBS with power adapter, makes any trimming a shorter time, I've used it for necked brass too(actually never needed to trim the straight wall yet...)
But lately I've turned to the Little Crow Gun Works, "World's Finest Trimmer" for the necked brass, very accurate and very fast, especially when turning several hundred at a time.
I did use the Lee setups in the beginning, but turned to the RCBS when I wanted better consistency in 308 etc.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[ShooterAZ]

Another fan of the Forster trimmer here. I have the power adapter for mine and use the Dewalt cordless screwdriver in the link below. It's variable speed and makes quick work of what could be a monotonous job. It slips on and off the adapter easily. The driver is gyroscopic and varies the speed and direction by simply turning your wrist slightly. It's got plenty of power to do hundreds of cases on one charge. Love it!

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF682N1-Gyroscopic-Inline-Screwdriver/dp/B011WRUODC/ref=asc_df_B011WRUODC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763890402&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13410238664498610418&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030289&hvtargid=pla-451235915698&psc=1

[Murphy]

L.E. Wilson all the way for me. Shop around some of the auction sites and you may be surprised how cheaply you can pick one up.

It may be a little slower than you care for, but if it's consistency you're looking for I know of no other that beats it.


Murphy

[Oyeboten]

I use this one

LEE PRECISION 90670, Deluxe Power Quick Trim Case Trimmer LEE PRECISION 90670, Deluxe Power Quick Trim Case Trimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MHZHS0Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.OKiDb7NGAHPG

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

How is the Cartridge Case held?

How does one set it up to trim only to a specified length?

Looks like this is only a part of something.

[Oyeboten]

Another fan of the Forster trimmer here. I have the power adapter for mine and use the Dewalt cordless screwdriver in the link below. It's variable speed and makes quick work of what could be a monotonous job. It slips on and off the adapter easily. The driver is gyroscopic and varies the speed and direction by simply turning your wrist slightly. It's got plenty of power to do hundreds of cases on one charge. Love it!

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF682N1-Gyroscopic-Inline-Screwdriver/dp/B011WRUODC/ref=asc_df_B011WRUODC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763890402&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13410238664498610418&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030289&hvtargid=pla-451235915698&psc=1

How are the Forster and the Wilson different?

Do they accept the same Shell Holders?

[Oyeboten]

L.E. Wilson all the way for me. Shop around some of the auction sites and you may be surprised how cheaply you can pick one up.

It may be a little slower than you care for, but if it's consistency you're looking for I know of no other that beats it.


Murphy

MIDWAY has them on sale right now, both the basic one and the Micrometer-end one.

I'll keep pondering another day or two, then take the plunge for one kind or another!

But watching the Video on the Wilson Micrometer-end one, I did like it, it looks like it would work very nicely and would allow precise Cartridge Case lengths...and it's be easy to use a little Battery Powder Drill on it same as any of the others, if one wanted to.

[Murphy]

MIDWAY has them on sale right now, both the basic one and the Micrometer-end one.

I'll keep pondering another day or two, then take the plunge for one kind or another!

But watching the Video on the Wilson Micrometer-end one, I did like it, it looks like it would work very nicely and would allow precise Cartridge Case lengths...and it's be easy to use a little Battery Powder Drill on it same as any of the others, if one wanted to.

I actually have 3 or 4 Wilson trimmers, none are the dial caliper style you mention. Not that I wouldn't mind owning one with the dial caliper setup mind you, I would. Of the 3-4 I have, each is dedicated to a specific cartridge, marked and left on the shelf until needed.

That reminds me. I'll be retiring at the end of the month. People ask me, what are you going to do?

Huh? I just laugh and laugh. Most have no idea of my reloading/casting setup. This summer heat in S.E. Oklahoma can make you beg for your next breath. I have a nice air conditioned shop, more brass than I can say grace over, and a lot of it needs prepping. It also has a sound system inside of it that would make a honky tonk owner proud.

Life's good!

Murphy

[fatboy]

for larger cuts i use my dillon trimmer, small stuff just touching up i use the lee trimmers

[Barman54]

Started with a Lyman doing my 30.06, using the Hand Crank.
Then bought the Power Adapters, for 6+ Calibers.
Got into Highpower shooting .30.06, .308, got a Gracey.
Then got an AR for Highpower, got a 2nd Gracey for smaller Calibers.

Still use the Lyman for Straight walled shells, and some of the Old Calibers, and some Newer Calibers.

Barman54
Out

[flyingmonkey35]

How is the Cartridge Case held?

How does one set it up to trim only to a specified length?

Looks like this is only a part of something.all good questions.

you purchase the trim length die for the appropriate cartridge.

they are 8 to 15 bucks each

the length is preset by Lee to match the COL per Lee's handbook.

I find it dose a fantastic job of trimming. chamfuring and debuting at all the same time.

if I'm only doing a handful I'll set it up.on a single stage.

if I'm doing a bunch. I'll do it on a progressive with a case feeder

for 223 cast I do this
deprime resize. on station2. trim on station 3. slight bell on station 4. and done.

the back in the cleaner for a quick rinse an then ready to load.

quick video
https://youtu.be/UUCejrfzcFE

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[samari46]

Wilson, Forster,and Lee. I like the Wilson because when I did experiment with High Power shooting you could get the reamers for small and large primer pockets.My Wilson is the standard one with the stand and clamp for holding the cartridge adaptors. The Forster is one I haven't used in awhile and the Lee accepts the auto prime shell holders. I have a small box with extra cutters and lock studs. Frank

[rbt50]

I have tried them all. the ones that I think are best and use are Giraud and Dillon case trimmers.

[Rich/WIS]

Have a Forster and have used the Lyman trimmers as well. My Forster is about 45 years old and has done more 06,243, and 30/40 than I can count. Mine has the handle that unscrews and I just remove it and chuck it into my 1/2" battery drill. Clamps to the shaft and not the threads. Someone gave me some Herters parts and there was a trimmer shaft that is the same size, and also got another shaft from somewhere. I set each for the correct length by caliber and just swap out as needed. The Lyman was nice also, easy to adjust and the system to clamp the case was easier on my fingers, also being universal did not need different collets. Whatever you decide on make sure you can attach a power source for trimming, hand cranking gets old real fast.

[Alan in Vermont]

I have both a Forster and an RCBS trimmer. Both get used with a battery drill for power, hand cranking gets old fast when doing any heavy trimming, as in 30-30 to 357 Herrett. Forster has better inside neck reamers but RCBS has a really decent 3-way trim & chamfer assembly. It's only listed as working with specific calibers (the 3-way cutter) but once you see how it works it can be used on other calibers.

I bought the Forster because my LGS had one on the shelf when I needed it. The RCBS came home with me when I was telling a friend I wanted to get one of those.

Both of those are collet style case holders. I keep seeing comments about how the collets aren't as consistent as other types. I just don't get it. The collet locates on a shoulder inside collet holder, the case locates on the recess in the collet. I put an untrimmed case in the open collet, side the cutter pilot into the case and tighten the collet, thus setting the case up just about perfectly square to the cutter blade. I generally get accuracy to +/- .001".

[tankgunner59]

I have used the Lee trimmer set up for years, ever since I began reloading. I have an inexpensive cordless drill/driver that I chuck the lock stud into. I like the Lee cutter that is set into a hardwood ball about 1 1/2 -2 inch. I had some old handrail dowel laying around, so I cut a piece 2 inches long, squared up the ends with my chop saw. I then determined center on one end and drilled a hole just smaller than the cutter. I put the dowel in my bench vise and pounded the cutter into the drilled out dowel with a rubber mallet. Very inexpensive, easy to use and accurate.

[dogmower]

Dillon is the cream of the crop, especially for high volume use. The new lyman ez trim is pretty awesome as well, not quite as fast as the Dillon, but just as accurate. For larger case forming jobs, where a lot of brass needs to be removed, Harbor Freight sells a nice little chop saw that cuts brass well. Also, the lee Case Length Gauge & Cutter and Lock Stud set up is neat, especially if you have a drill press. For the rest of the smaller volume jobs, I use the rcbs trimmer with the quick release handle thingy, and a hand drill to drive the cutter head. case trimming is PIA.

[Tmaloy]

I have two trimmers, a Trim-it and a Forster. I like using the Forster, I have the 3-Way cutter for some rifle brass, I use it with a cheap Ryobi power screwdriver. I like that the power driver isn't to heavy and putting any weight on the end of the cutter shaft. Still has a lot of power to trim the cases.

[Oyeboten]

My poor Head was spinning, Lol...so...I took-the-plunge and got the 'Wilson' Micrometer Model with stand from Midway, who is having a sale on them at the moment.

I can put my Battery Drill to it and I am sure I will..!

I will see about getting a 357 Maximum Shell Holder tomorrow, I clean forgot when ordering the Trimmer itself, to see if Midway also had the Shell Holders to choose from as well.

Thank you all so much for your input!

This is sure a fine forum and good people..!

I'll make a thread about how things are going once I am getting things underway!

[Ramson222]

I've tried Wilson, foster, and lee. Lee was the worst. Foster and Wilson both have great repeatability once you get them setup correctly. If I was going to buy a new one, I would by a foster. The Wilson is overkill unless you are competing. I happen have foster you could borrow if you want to compare it to the Wilson. The cutter has a broken tooth but still works fine.

[Hahndorf1874]

I have found the Hornady pacific that uses the std case holder easy to use and quick,the best part is that it indexes from the inside of the rim on rimed cases, more accurate as some cases rim thickness can vary, my Foster indexes from the base of the rim and is not as accurate, true uniform length is handy when breach seating, ie 40/65 BP. A couple of thou. Does make a difference.

Cheers Mal in au.

[Oyeboten]

I have found the Hornady pacific that uses the std case holder easy to use and quick,the best part is that it indexes from the inside of the rim on rimed cases, more accurate as some cases rim thickness can vary, my Foster indexes from the base of the rim and is not as accurate, true uniform length is handy when breach seating, ie 40/65 BP. A couple of thou. Does make a difference.

Cheers Mal in au.

Makes sense!

My primary purpose for this is to have uniform .357 Maximum Cases, which I will shorten to stand in for the early S & W .38/44 Target Revolver cases, so all my cases ought to be uniform Rim thickness, and all are brand new and same make.

But now that you have informed me about this, I will measure rim thickness, just for fun, and just to see how consistent they are ( I have 100 Empty Brass of the .357 M ).

I did not know enough about any of these to have even thought some Trimmers might index from the Cartridge Rim's upper portion...that is really neat to know.

I do have an early .22-250 ( and no where to shoot it ) which I hope to Load for eventually, and it would appreciate the utmost in these kind of observances...the Brass I have for it is Lapua and new.

The "Wilson" outfit will be a good one for me to learn with, and go from there.

It'll do fine for the old Target Revolver's Cartridges.

[Oyeboten]

I've tried Wilson, foster, and lee. Lee was the worst. Foster and Wilson both have great repeatability once you get them setup correctly. If I was going to buy a new one, I would by a foster. The Wilson is overkill unless you are competing. I happen have foster you could borrow if you want to compare it to the Wilson. The cutter has a broken tooth but still works fine.

Mighty nice of you to offer!

Thank you!

I'll have my introduction to all this soon with the 'Wilson' outfit, and see how things go..!

[hermans]

I use this one.....works very well for all my rifle cases, don't know if you can trim straight wall cases with it?
https://www.littlecrowgunworks.com/store1/WFT-Original-c31402029

[15meter]

No...but close! Lol...

I need to shorten .357 Maximum Cases to be about 1/8th of an inch Shorter.

These for use in an S & W New Model 3 chambering the original "38/44" Cartridge, which was/is essentially a long version of the 38 S & W Cartridge, where the Cartridge Brass is the full length of the Cylinder, and the .361 Bullets are inside the case entirely.

Since I can not so far find any original .38/44 empty Brass, I have elected to go with the .357 Maximun, which yes, is a little smaller, or if about .004 smaller in diameter, and I expect it will Fire Form to puff out a little bit.

Here is an image showing some original .38/44 Cartridges, still loaded -

OAL is about 1.465 Inches for the examples shown -

I have about 46 Rounds of original Ammunition but I do not want to fire these and shoot them up, so, I have been looking for empty Brass, and it may be who knows how long before I find any, so, I decided to go with the .357 Maximum Cases, and to shorten them, use an expander die for them accept .361 Bullets, and, give it go from there.
https://media.fotki.com/2v2ETbr6Gx9J4Vm.jpg (https://private.fotki.com/PhilBphil/loading-and-whateve/img-2206.html)Hosted on Fotki (https://www.fotki.com)


https://media.fotki.com/2v2ETbjBTx9J4Vm.jpg (https://private.fotki.com/PhilBphil/loading-and-whateve/img-2209.html)Hosted on Fotki (https://www.fotki.com)

If you do decide to fire these, I'd pull the bullets, deprime then anneal. OLD brass will probably split due to age hardening. Rare, old brass needs to be handled gently.

[15meter]

And my 2 pennies, even though you've already bought a trimmer, I use the Lee because I can make my own custom length gauges. I load a number of odd ball cases and having a fixed gauge that never changes makes repeatable case length easy.

I chuck the cutter/length gauge up in a drill press.

I also have the Lyman version, it uses standard shell holders. You can only get Lee shell holders for pretty run of the mill cartridges. 50/70, 416 Rigby or a 470 N.E. Are not the kind of cartridges Lee will have a shell holder for.

[Oyeboten]

If you do decide to fire these, I'd pull the bullets, deprime then anneal. OLD brass will probably split due to age hardening. Rare, old brass needs to be handled gently.

Oh no, Lol...I do not want to use or fire these old ones, Lol...

They are somehow just too precious, so I will just keep them.

If I could find original empty Brass, I would gladly use it though.

It is such an obscure Cartridge now, even the Cartridge Collector Groups on Facebook no one had ever heard of it, or of the .32/44 variation.

[Oyeboten]

I use this one.....works very well for all my rifle cases, don't know if you can trim straight wall cases with it?
https://www.littlecrowgunworks.com/store1/WFT-Original-c31402029

I do not understand how this design would be used -

There is no Carriage or other end of it.

Looks nice though!

[15meter]

I do not understand how this design would be used -

There is no Carriage or other end of it.

Looks nice though!

The website won't come up on the tablet I'm on, but I think that one goes off the gage point on the shoulder to establish the length.

[Oyeboten]

My new "WILSON" Trimmer arrived today!

I'll see if I can get it set up tonight sometime, and try it out!

Will Post Pics..!

[Hick]

Belt sander (I put the cases in a cartridge gauge, trim off the excess on the belt sander, then clean up the mouth with the hand tool). super fast and the cartridge gauge keeps it precise.

[Boolseye]

I use the Lee zip trim. If I’m removing a lot of material (such as when I’m making Mak brass from Luger or 8mm Mauser from 30-06), I chuck the cutter in my drill press.

How’s that Wilson? Reading this thread made me think about upgrading.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Oyeboten]

I use the Lee zip trim. If I’m removing a lot of material (such as when I’m making Mak brass from Luger or 8mm Mauser from 30-06), I chuck the cutter in my drill press.

How’s that Wilson? Reading this thread made me think about upgrading.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am on a work deadline which I did not know I was going to be on, Lol...so, be a couple days till I get any sit down time..!

Stay tuned!

[hermans]

The website won't come up on the tablet I'm on, but I think that one goes off the gage point on the shoulder to establish the length.

That is correct, there is a collet for each caliber, and you adjust the exact depth of the cutter, so it is fully adjustable to exactly the required length to be cut.
If you do a search on YouTube, you get many videos on this cutter.
It is way more accurate/consistent than the lathe type cutters, and much faster as well, so for high volumes of brass to be trimmed, this little cutter is hard to beat!

[Three44s]

My very first trimmer was a Pacific (Hornady) around 1975. The cutter got dull fast.

I have some of the Lee originals but they are fixed length. You would have to grind the length gauge shorter to uniform your batch of cases.

My next and dedicated trimmer was and is the Lyman universal. No collets or shell holders to fiddle with, just bore size pilots as the case head is held by a adjustable head. There is some length variation however.

Next was my Forester. I bought that one to do outside neck turning. It uses collets to hold the case head.

I also own an RCBS and it uses collets. I bought that one used on the net and was going to buy the 3 way cutting head but have not followed through.

In the meantime I fell into three Wilson trimmers and a pile of collets for that system. These collets are based on families of cartridges and hold the body of the case rather than the case head.

For background, a fixed chamber gun headspaces off the bolt face with properly sized brass.

Revolvers headspace off the forward edge of the case rim.

I find the Wilson to be the most accurate and consisent for cartridges that headspace from the bolt face bar none.

With a revolver round things get a little murky. The Lyman universal utilizes a pair of claws the grab the leading edge of cases and a hardened steel ball that centers the case in the holder head and applies forward pressure to keep the case in position during the trim.

I do see variation with my Lyman trimmer on revolver cases to some extent and some of it likely is caused by tightening of the head not being super consistent on my part, the rest being variations in the case heads.

The bit of trimming for length I have done with collet style trimmers that hold the head of the case leaves me suspect. I find it takes a fair amount of finesse to remove larger variations in set up for each trim and that small deviations in rim diameter and rim thickness still leave something to be desired.

I have been using my Lyman universal since I bought it new in 1983. The steel cutter got dull soon and I paid a princely sum for a carbide cutter but the results speak for themselves ..... I am still using that carbide tool. The Lyman is not perfect, my length varies some, my case mouths are not dead nuts square. However it is just about close enough.

Where I demand better, the Wilson system delivers the goods with fixed chamber gun cartridges to the highest standard I know of.

I was too cheap to buy stands for my Wilson trimmers so I went to our farm shop and have built my own stands. I bolt them down to used discarded plastic food cutting boards my wife gives me. I’m building my own hold downs to secure the Wilson collet on them.

So here is the bottom line: I use my Lyman trimmer for all the heavy and medium work and break out the Wilsons for getting down to shooting bugs. My three Wilson’s will be used in succession in that one will be set up for length, one for inside chamfer and number three for radiusing primer pockets on military brass post staging.

With the length and chamfer consistent, I take the case to an inside flashole debur and get that taken care of more consistently.

Three44s

[Oyeboten]

My very first trimmer was a Pacific (Hornady) around 1975. The cutter got dull fast.

I have some of the Lee originals but they are fixed length. You would have to grind the length gauge shorter to uniform your batch of cases.

My next and dedicated trimmer was and is the Lyman universal. No collets or shell holders to fiddle with, just bore size pilots as the case head is held by a adjustable head. There is some length variation however.

Next was my Forester. I bought that one to do outside neck turning. It uses collets to hold the case head.

I also own an RCBS and it uses collets. I bought that one used on the net and was going to buy the 3 way cutting head but have not followed through.

In the meantime I fell into three Wilson trimmers and a pile of collets for that system. These collets are based on families of cartridges and hold the body of the case rather than the case head.

For background, a fixed chamber gun headspaces off the bolt face with properly sized brass.

Revolvers headspace off the forward edge of the case rim.

I find the Wilson to be the most accurate and consisent for cartridges that headspace from the bolt face bar none.

With a revolver round things get a little murky. The Lyman universal utilizes a pair of claws the grab the leading edge of cases and a hardened steel ball that centers the case in the holder head and applies forward pressure to keep the case in position during the trim.

I do see variation with my Lyman trimmer on revolver cases to some extent and some of it likely is caused by tightening of the head not being super consistent on my part, the rest being variations in the case heads.

The bit of trimming for length I have done with collet style trimmers that hold the head of the case leaves me suspect. I find it takes a fair amount of finesse to remove larger variations in set up for each trim and that small deviations in rim diameter and rim thickness still leave something to be desired.

I have been using my Lyman universal since I bought it new in 1983. The steel cutter got dull soon and I paid a princely sum for a carbide cutter but the results speak for themselves ..... I am still using that carbide tool. The Lyman is not perfect, my length varies some, my case mouths are not dead nuts square. However it is just about close enough.

Where I demand better, the Wilson system delivers the goods with fixed chamber gun cartridges to the highest standard I know of.

I was too cheap to buy stands for my Wilson trimmers so I went to our farm shop and have built my own stands. I bolt them down to used discarded plastic food cutting boards my wife gives me. I’m building my own hold downs to secure the Wilson collet on them.

So here is the bottom line: I use my Lyman trimmer for all the heavy and medium work and break out the Wilsons for getting down to shooting bugs. My three Wilson’s will be used in succession in that one will be set up for length, one for inside chamfer and number three for radiusing primer pockets on military brass post staging.

With the length and chamfer consistent, I take the case to an inside flashole debur and get that taken care of more consistently.

Three44s

Thanks for this info Three44s!

I got the "Wilson"..!

[Oyeboten]

Thanks so much everyone for your help and input!

Please pardon me for being "MIA" here a while, Work has been taking up all my time lately.

Anyway, I did send off for the 'Micrometer' version "Wilson" Trimmer, and I got it from "Midway" who was was having a sale on them.

I forgot to also Order a Shell Holder at that time, and I do not even know if Midway sells those, but, no matter, I went on to 'Wilson's Web Site, and did not find a Shell Holder for .357 Maximum, so I got one for .357 Magnum, which would be the same diameter Shell.

I did not see options for ordering Shell Holders for use with Shells that have already been fired, and my Bag of 100 .357 Maximum Brass are all "once fired" shells.

So, Shell Holder arrives, it is beautiful and perfect in every way, and of course, none of the 'once fired' Brass will fit in far enough.

So, I called 'Wilson's today and they were very nice and helpful, and they said for me just to mail the Shell Holder to them along with some of my 'once fired' .357 Maximum Cases, and they will take it from there.

So, I wrote a Cover Letter and will package things up and Mail it to them tomorrow, and we'll go from there.

Pictures and further adventures once the Shell Holder comes back ready to accept my once fired .357 Maximum Cases.

[EDG]

There is no point in trimming fired cases as is.
You should resize them first. Then trim.
Sizing the brass changes its length slightly so it makes no sense to trim a fired case.



Thanks so much everyone for your help and input!

Please pardon me for being "MIA" here a while, Work has been taking up all my time lately.

Anyway, I did send off for the 'Micrometer' version "Wilson" Trimmer, and I got it from "Midway" who was was having a sale on them.

I forgot to also Order a Shell Holder at that time, and I do not even know if Midway sells those, but, no matter, I went on to 'Wilson's Web Site, and did not find a Shell Holder for .357 Maximum, so I got one for .357 Magnum, which would be the same diameter Shell.

I did not see options for ordering Shell Holders for use with Shells that have already been fired, and my Bag of 100 .357 Maximum Brass are all "once fired" shells.

So, Shell Holder arrives, it is beautiful and perfect in every way, and of course, none of the 'once fired' Brass will fit in far enough.

So, I called 'Wilson's today and they were very nice and helpful, and they said for me just to mail the Shell Holder to them along with some of my 'once fired' .357 Maximum Cases, and they will take it from there.

So, I wrote a Cover Letter and will package things up and Mail it to them tomorrow, and we'll go from there.

Pictures and further adventures once the Shell Holder comes back ready to accept my once fired .357 Maximum Cases.

[Oyeboten]

There is no point in trimming fired cases as is.
You should resize them first. Then trim.
Sizing the brass changes its length slightly so it makes no sense to trim a fired case.

Well...I have to re-size them to be a larger diameter.

In order to Load and fire them, I have to shorten the .357 Maximum Cases a little bit, then, I have to enlarge them one way or another.

I will re size the top 1/2 inch or so of the Trimmed cases, for the cases to accept .361 Diameter Bullets, or if possible, I will re-size/expand them as far down as I can anyway, then Fire Form them.

I do not expect them to get any longer with use, or they might even get a little bit shorter with the Fire Forming, we'll see.

Fan back through the Thread so you can see what I am working on with this...it's a little unusual...and fun!

[EDG]

Resizing your cases makes them smaller in diameter. As the case walls are squeezed in the displaced material will cause the cases to elongate slightly.
If you open your cases to a larger diameter you are really using an expander - not a resizer.
If you intend to resize them with a standard die after firing then your should trim them after resizing while they fit your case holder.


Well...I have to re-size them to be a larger diameter.

In order to Load and fire them, I have to shorten the .357 Maximum Cases a little bit, then, I have to enlarge them one way or another.

I will re size the top 1/2 inch or so of the Trimmed cases, for the cases to accept .361 Diameter Bullets, or if possible, I will re-size/expand them as far down as I can anyway, then Fire Form them.

I do not expect them to get any longer with use, or they might even get a little bit shorter with the Fire Forming, we'll see.

Fan back through the Thread so you can see what I am working on with this...it's a little unusual...and fun!

[Sig556r]

A bit pricey but Giraud is one of the most efficient trimmers there is...

[Tripplebeards]

I’ve been using the one included in my RCBS master reloading kit I bought in 99’. I purchased a cordless drill bit chuck for it to speed up the process. The only bad part is the Allen heads slip every once in a while if you push too hard and I’ll end up with a lot of short wrecked brass before I catch it.

[Three44s]

I’ve been using the one included in my RCBS master reloading kit I bought in 99’. I purchased a cordless drill bit chuck for it to speed up the process. The only bad part is the Allen heads slip every once in a while if you push too hard and I’ll end up with a lot of short wrecked brass before I catch it.

I had this problem with my Lyman trimmer as well. Switching to a carbide cutter and breaking the trim down with excessively long cases into a couple of runs with deburring and chamfering included in between runs helped. IE. Shortening those cases in steps.

The immediate solution was to washer or spacer up the shaft between the cutter handle and the base adjuster stop on the shaft so it could not slide away from the cutter head fixed the problem as well.

Three44s

[Oyeboten]

Resizing your cases makes them smaller in diameter. As the case walls are squeezed in the displaced material will cause the cases to elongate slightly.
If you open your cases to a larger diameter you are really using an expander - not a resizer.
If you intend to resize them with a standard die after firing then your should trim them after resizing while they fit your case holder.

I am not re-forming the Cases to a smaller diameter.

I have to re-form or expand them to be a little larger diameter.

I doubt I will have any need to re-form them after they are fired - Fire-Formed. If I were to wish to do so, no one makes any such Dies anyway, and I would have to make my own Die.

Cases need to be same diameter as .38 S & W...the Revolver is meant for an obsolete Cartridge which was same diameter as .38 S & W, but much longer.

.357 Maximum Cases are all I can think of to work with for this, and they are too small a diameter to accept .361 Bullets.

These are Black Powder Revolver Cartridges.

[EDG]

Even so .357 Max cases are still smaller than .38 S&W.
What you are calling reforming is not really reforming as the word is normally used.
All you are doing is expanding the case mouth it about the size of a fired case.
There is nothing new or different about this. I once bought a box of 500 bullets to load in .357 Mag cases.
The loaded ammo would not chamber because the bullets were .362.



.357 Maximum Cases are all I can think of to work with for this, and they are too small a diameter to accept .361 Bullets.

These are Black Powder Revolver Cartridges.

[Three44s]

Oyboten,

One suggestion with the Wilson trimmer: Since this trimmer is running steel on steel it is a good idea to keep lube on the various you run in the mandrel, ie your trim cutter etc.

It is imperative when running with power.

Other trimmers need lube as well but the Wilson is the most critical of the bunch.

Three44s

[Oyeboten]

Even so .357 Max cases are still smaller than .38 S&W.
What you are calling reforming is not really reforming as the word is normally used.
All you are doing is expanding the case mouth it about the size of a fired case.
There is nothing new or different about this. I once bought a box of 500 bullets to load in .357 Mag cases.
The loaded ammo would not chamber because the bullets were .362.

Ahhhh, makes sense, no 'reforming' then, just expanding.

Since I have never reformed or had to expand Cases before, it is new to me.

There are no expanding Dies I know of to enlarge .357 Maximum ( or .357 Magnum, or .38 Special ) out to .38 S & W diameter.

If you know of any, please let me know?

Otherwise, my only recourse is to either make one or have one made.

[Oyeboten]

Oyboten,

One suggestion with the Wilson trimmer: Since this trimmer is running steel on steel it is a good idea to keep lube on the various you run in the mandrel, ie your trim cutter etc.

It is imperative when running with power.

Other trimmers need lube as well but the Wilson is the most critical of the bunch.

Three44s

Thanks for the mention!

Will do!