HELP RF Firing pin Barely Hits Rim!

[Kev18]

I have been trying to make .32 RF cases at home. The firing pin barely makes it to the rim and beats up my extractor.

Is there any way to bend the tip of the pin? I tried to make it longer ( I have no idea what im doing) that didnt change anything.

They aren't light strikes either. That main spring is the stiffest one iv'e seen. I can barely cock it. I have tried Ramset cartridges but I hit way to low on the rim so they dont fire. The little winchester ones work.

Dont worry about the rifle Its a steven's favorite. Im try stuff out on it.

Beat up extractor:
https://i.imgur.com/UZutRcM.jpg

Dixie gun works .32RF case with a .22:
https://i.imgur.com/AVwRu43.jpg

[Traffer]

So the firing pin is out of alignment? I would check the mechanism to see if there is any slop (perhaps worn pivot pins etc) I would say shim before considering bending the firing pin, unless it shows signs of being bent out of shape. I have a 22 revolver that does the same, but it hit's just enough to fire ...every time. But it also dents the cylinder when it fires. I sent it back and basically they would not do anything because it did fire.

[Kev18]

How would I shim this? This fires to just not as reliably as id like.

[pietro]

.

It must be considered that, when both are centered, the .32RF rim edge and the .22RF rim edge are a little too far apart to get consistent ignition with a small FP tip.

IMO, there are two avenues to be explored:

1) Slightly open (drill) the FP hole in the breechblock & make a bigger FP tip (not a bigger FB body) via removing the FP, grinding it's face flat so a sacrificial drill bit of the propped size can be used both to drill the needed holes in both breechblock & FP body, later gringing the drill bit's shank to the correct length as a new/bigger FP tip.

2) Rework the breechblock linkage (etc) to slightly raise the breechblock position when it's all the way "up" (IOW, in battery).


Here's a schematic of the Favorite, so you can see what's going on inside the action.


https://www.leeroysramblings.com/Gun%20photos/Stenens_44x.jpg

[indian joe]

How would I shim this? This fires to just not as reliably as id like.

Kev
Fix it properly! At the moment the firing pin is spending its energy against the burred up extractor - strip that rifle down, clean up the burred extractor and make a new firing pin for it - make the pin to fit the breech block so it moves free but not sloppy then you can hand fit the end of the pin to suit the cases -- CAUTION -- test fire it with fired cases first to be sure the pin dont puncture the case - I would go right through that old gun and proly ream and bush the breech block pivot pin (but I like doin that stuff and I have the tools to do it)

[Kev18]

Kev
Fix it properly! At the moment the firing pin is spending its energy against the burred up extractor - strip that rifle down, clean up the burred extractor and make a new firing pin for it - make the pin to fit the breech block so it moves free but not sloppy then you can hand fit the end of the pin to suit the cases -- CAUTION -- test fire it with fired cases first to be sure the pin dont puncture the case - I would go right through that old gun and proly ream and bush the breech block pivot pin (but I like doin that stuff and I have the tools to do it)

I dont have alot of gunsmithing tools... if any! I ordered a new firing pin so il get it soon I hope! Il try making a new firing pin before the other one comes in. :)

[uscra112]

Something's definitely not right with that Favorite. The firing pin should be hitting higher than that.

So, question #1 is whether the link pins (or the link itself) are worn enough that they aren't lifting the breechblock up into its' proper position. I think that very likely. I'd first take it down and check for free play in the linkage. There should be none, but you won't find it like that. Next drive out the link pins and look at the holes in the link. They are likely to be oval, battered into that shape by long use. That's a '94 Favorite, which has a thin link, which is weak, and to make matters worse the .32 rimfire had the greatest bolt thrust of any cartridge the gun was made for. (The biggest change in the 1915 Favorite was to widen the whole action so the link could be made wider.)

The interim solution is to ream everything and fit larger pins, but the ovality of the holes in the link will tend to draw the reamer off center, so the spacing of the new holes isn't right. Better to buy a new link before you start reaming everything. Wisner's has them.

I drill thru all the holes, lever, link, and breechblock with a #23 drill, then ream them .1570. (Chucking reamer can be bought on Amazon.) Best done on a drill press, to keep everything square, but turn the reamer by hand. It is not a drill. This will leave everything a light drive fit for 4mm hardened steel dowel pins. These are bought from McMaster Carr. They come in packs of fifty, for about $12, but the shipping will almost double that. If that bothers you, I have plenty, and will mail you a pair if you P/M me your address. They have to be shortened, which I can do before I mail them.

At this point the action of opening and closing would be very stiff, so I ream the link to .1575 (another reamer). You could just as well open the link holes a few tenths with abrasive paper on a stick. Don't overdo it!

This treatment should line your firing pin up correctly. However, just looking at that photo, your pin tip doesn't look too healthy, so replacing it seems in order.

[Kev18]

Im not too experienced with gunsmithing here. I do the best I can but still.... I ordered. À new firing pin since I was trying to gring the tip off the other one, and it broke in half.

[Bent Ramrod]

I have a Page-Lewis .22 that has the same firing pin misalignment problem. Spotting an empty case with Dykem Blue and judiciously beveling the lower part of the pin that didn’t touch the case rim reduced the number of times I had to snap it twice to make it fire once significantly. Not completely to zero, but much less exasperating, anyway. Like the 100-lb woman who exerts a thousand pounds pressure (or something) on the end of her high heel because of leverage and surface area, the pin was hitting harder in the right place.

Get some Swiss files for these jobs. Power equipment is for pros that can afford to mess up a bunch of parts learning their trade. That’s the worst problem for us amateurs—we not only haven’t the skill, but we only have one chance to make it right. Go slow.

I’ve not seen a Favorite extractor like yours. All of the Stevens 6-o’clocks I come across have a sort of funneled trough starting where your “battered” area is, narrowing down to nothing after maybe 1/8”. This serves (I guess) to further assist in confining the firing pin strike to the shell rim and also helps to gradually push the pin back into the block as the breech opens and the extractor comes out. A little judicious filing in that area might help some, as well.

These kid’s rifles were made to a price and sometimes on assembly the tolerances all stacked in the wrong direction. Maybe the firing problem is what kept your bore still shootable; the original owner getting frustrated and losing interest. Except for a loose .32 RF barrel I found in pristine condition and married to a junker Low Wall action, all my original Favorites, a Tip-Up and even a 44-1/2 in .32RF were obviously fired a lot and have bores that are hideous to behold.

[uscra112]

Im not too experienced with gunsmithing here. I do the best I can but still.... I ordered. À new firing pin since I was trying to gring the tip off the other one, and it broke in half.
You're good with a camera. Can you post some pics of the broken firing pin?

[Kev18]

I have a Page-Lewis .22 that has the same firing pin misalignment problem. Spotting an empty case with Dykem Blue and judiciously beveling the lower part of the pin that didn’t touch the case rim reduced the number of times I had to snap it twice to make it fire once significantly. Not completely to zero, but much less exasperating, anyway. Like the 100-lb woman who exerts a thousand pounds pressure (or something) on the end of her high heel because of leverage and surface area, the pin was hitting harder in the right place.

Get some Swiss files for these jobs. Power equipment is for pros that can afford to mess up a bunch of parts learning their trade. That’s the worst problem for us amateurs—we not only haven’t the skill, but we only have one chance to make it right. Go slow.

I’ve not seen a Favorite extractor like yours. All of the Stevens 6-o’clocks I come across have a sort of funneled trough starting where your “battered” area is, narrowing down to nothing after maybe 1/8”. This serves (I guess) to further assist in confining the firing pin strike to the shell rim and also helps to gradually push the pin back into the block as the breech opens and the extractor comes out. A little judicious filing in that area might help some, as well.

These kid’s rifles were made to a price and sometimes on assembly the tolerances all stacked in the wrong direction. Maybe the firing problem is what kept your bore still shootable; the original owner getting frustrated and losing interest. Except for a loose .32 RF barrel I found in pristine condition and married to a junker Low Wall action, all my original Favorites, a Tip-Up and even a 44-1/2 in .32RF were obviously fired a lot and have bores that are hideous to behold.

My bore looks new... So i dont know whats up with that.

[Kev18]

Broken firing pin.
It broke right in the thin part when I was holding it in the vise grip. Maybe it was already fractured?
https://i.imgur.com/PuwlcT0.jpg

[DrDucati]

I had a firing pin issue with my Favorite. It was a little bent. Have you removed it and confirmed yours is not bent? I def wouldn't try to bend a straight one...that may give misfires due to a short pin.

Edit: oh...nvm, you posted before I did. Probably was in fact bent and that's why it hit low

[uscra112]

For holding little parts like firing pins for filing, a pin vise is the berries.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-93-Adjustable-Vise/dp/B000COYPG4/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=pin+vise&qid=1562556777&s=gateway&sr=8-9

If your bore is like new, that action ought still to be tight. Does the lever close with a "snap"?

Hmm. Break like that suggests to me that it was too hard. I've broken one that I made because I didn't temper it enough.

[uscra112]

Here's a much better pin vise. Amazon wanted to hide it but my Google-fu is better than theirs :wink: It's the exact one I've been using for years.

https://www.amazon.com/SHAVIV-29057-Handychuck-Vise-Handle/dp/B003B3IR62/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=vargus+pin+vise&qid=1562557728&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Midway sells the same one for $40.00 Go figure.

[Kev18]

For holding little parts like firing pins for filing, a pin vise is the berries.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-93-Adjustable-Vise/dp/B000COYPG4/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=pin+vise&qid=1562556777&s=gateway&sr=8-9

If your bore is like new, that action ought still to be tight. Does the lever close with a "snap"?

Hmm. Break like that suggests to me that it was too hard. I've broken one that I made because I didn't temper it enough.

Well iv'e never seen that type vise before, il order one ASAP.

Il post pictures of the bore if possible tomorrow. The lever does close really nice. BUUT The screw was originally bent making the lever flop around. I dont know if that means anything...

[uscra112]

Order the second one I posted, the red handle one. MUCH better.

Screw was bent...the lever screw? That might explain a lot. Once again, Wisners has new ones.

http://www.wisnersinc.com/model/stevens-favorite-1889-1894-1915/

Can you turn the lever screw to a position where the lever doesn't flop around?

[Traffer]

I don't want to sound like a jerk but I buy pin vises by the lot for less than a buck apiece from eBay. I have all kinds of sizes and shapes. They are indeed handy. Actually essential for many things.
I just checked out that one you had posted. None of mine are anywhere near as good. None of mine are anywhere as big or flexible. I am tempted to get one of those myself.

[uscra112]

You get what you pay for. Old proverb: Buy cheap, buy twice. The Vargus (Shaviv) with the red handle has a hollow-center chuck, so it can swallow four inches of whatever you're working on. I've used it for irregular parts like extractors, too. They also make the best universal deburring tool I've ever had.

[Kev18]

Order the second one I posted, the red handle one. MUCH better.

Screw was bent...the lever screw? That might explain a lot. Once again, Wisners has new ones.

http://www.wisnersinc.com/model/stevens-favorite-1889-1894-1915/

Can you turn the lever screw to a position where the lever doesn't flop around?

I Tried straightening it out and it worked. Still not 100% but it works alot better. The lever still get's loose though.

[KCSO]

If you look at the Dixie cases the firing pin was hitting where it should but the case in a case doesn't sit low enough. The rim of the outside case shows where the real rimfire case rim would be at and the 22 case falls short. If these are the cases you will use all the time you need to modify the block and pin to hit the 22 insert case not where the rim should have been.

[Kev18]

If you look at the Dixie cases the firing pin was hitting where it should but the case in a case doesn't sit low enough. The rim of the outside case shows where the real rimfire case rim would be at and the 22 case falls short. If these are the cases you will use all the time you need to modify the block and pin to hit the 22 insert case not where the rim should have been.

The pin barely hits the rim of any Cases. Mine or dixie gun works. Id need to use an original .32 case but Idont want to shoot it.

[uscra112]

When you say the lever "gets loose", do you mean that it drops down by gravity when the action is closed? If so, that's a sure sign that the linkage is loose.

[Kev18]

When you say the lever "gets loose", do you mean that it drops down by gravity when the action is closed? If so, that's a sure sign that the linkage is loose.

When the action is closed, the lever flops down half an inch maybe. Its just loose. I can probably improve it by changing the lever screw.

[uscra112]

Screw probably won't improve it much. That's the classical symptom of a badly worn link. Just installing a new link will help. Wisners doesn't list them, but Jack First has them.

https://jack-first-gun-parts.myshopify.com/collections/stevens-favorite-1894-1915-22-single-shot-rifle

If it were me, I'd still ream for the oversize pins, but your call. One thing I've observed, though, is that once a Favorite or a Model 44 gets loose, it gets looser faster the looser it is.

The paucity of ammo is cause enough for most people to abandon the .32s. A .25 RF can be converted to .22 by swapping in a new barrel without too much trouble, but the .32s are a different critter.

[KCSO]

You said it "I'd need to use original cases". The gun just needs to be reworked for the ammo you have. I would guess a larger pin and a tightening will help if not do the job. If I had it here I would tighten the link and put in new pins and then probably weld up the firing pin hole and make a proper pin. A lot of work but it may be worth it to you. My preferred method is to recut the block to centerfire and rechamber to 32 S and W short. I did this for a buddy and it made a super garden gun. I have the advantage of a machine shop in hand so I usually go way overboard in fixing these. I have in hand now a 25 Favorite that will soon be a 22 LR after fis=xing the block and friing pin and relining the bore.

[Kev18]

Screw probably won't improve it much. That's the classical symptom of a badly worn link. Just installing a new link will help. Wisners doesn't list them, but Jack First has them.

https://jack-first-gun-parts.myshopify.com/collections/stevens-favorite-1894-1915-22-single-shot-rifle

If it were me, I'd still ream for the oversize pins, but your call. One thing I've observed, though, is that once a Favorite or a Model 44 gets loose, it gets looser faster the looser it is.

The paucity of ammo is cause enough for most people to abandon the .32s. A .25 RF can be converted to .22 by swapping in a new barrel without too much trouble, but the .32s are a different critter.

If I post a pic of the parts will it help you determine whats wrong, if its the link atleast?

[uscra112]

Do your best. Get as close as you can to the link, and normal to its' plane. But you can better test by trying the pins in the link holes. Also in the holes in the lever and breechblock. But it'll be the link that'll be worst. Just a poor little thin thing stamped out of plain low-carbon sheet steel, they were. Barely even case hardened after 1896. New ones will be much better steel, for starters. The pins would be a light drag fit in a new link, but I'm pretty sure yours will just fall through, rattling as they go. Out of all the '94 Favorites I've bought or come across, maybe one or two really choice ones didn't have a loose linkage. The dozen or two others all needed tightening-up.

[Kev18]

Here. I dont know if this helps but I can wiggle the parts around freely. I dont know if it normal or not but there's space in-between the moving parts...
I pushed down on the link so you can see the gap.
https://i.imgur.com/7Kw4Gog.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/97NcKBk.jpg

[uscra112]

OK, what you are pointing to is "sideplay", and it is of no consequence.

Look at the attached markup. What we care about is whether there is play when you push the assembly together and then pull it apart, (long arrows). There should be so little that you can't feel it at all. Easiest to do this with the assembly lying flat on a smooth, hard surface. If there is any play at all, tap out the two pins that I have indicated, and let's have a close look at the holes in the link.
245013

[Kev18]

There is play. And the pins were barely holding in. I didn't even need a punch to get them out.
Would should I do? Drill out the holes and add bigger pins?

https://i.imgur.com/e2fg1Xj.jpg

[uscra112]

That's what I wanted to see. I'm pretty sure the link holes are battered oval just from looking at the picture.

I described the repair procedure in my post #7. It involves drilling AND REAMING the holes to get a snug fit on the oversize pins. Drilling alone is not precise enough.

Do you have at least a drill press? Important to keep everything lined up square when you drill. The reaming can ALMOST be done free-hand if your hands are strong and your eyes are keen, but.....

[Kev18]

That's what I wanted to see. I'm pretty sure the link holes are battered oval just from looking at the picture.

I described the repair procedure in my post #7. It involves drilling AND REAMING the holes to get a snug fit on the oversize pins. Drilling alone is not precise enough.

Do you have at least a drill press? Important to keep everything lined up square when you drill. The reaming can ALMOST be done free-hand if your hands are strong and your eyes are keen, but.....

Ya I have a big drill press. I dont have a reamer tho. I have good metal drill bits I can use... +

[uscra112]

Chucking reamers are cheap. Amazon has them. (Bezos bought out a couple of my favorite small-tool suppliers years ago.)

https://www.amazon.com/RedLine-Tools-Straight-High-Speed-OAL-1510/dp/B01KXW3HLS/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=reamer+.1570&qid=1562795115&s=industrial&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1

And

https://www.amazon.com/1575-SPEED-STEEL-CHUCKING-REAMER/dp/B01G4B1CN2/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=reamer+.1575&qid=1562795282&s=industrial&sr=1-8

They've even got the dowel pins.

https://www.amazon.com/Dowel-Diameter-Alloy-Steel-Unbrako/dp/B07JW5ZZ8S/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=steel+dowel+4mm&qid=1562795405&s=industrial&sr=1-5

Do NOT buy "shelf support" dowel pins. They are not nearly as precisely sized.

You could get by OK with only the .1575 reamer if cost is an issue.

[uscra112]

The Unbrako 4mm pins are a package of 50 or 100. (Doesn't say) I can mail you a couple from my stash at no charge. I had to buy 50, and I won't live long enough to use them all up.

[Kev18]

Do I actually need a reamer though? I looked at videos and people say you drill a hole 15 thousands smaller and then use a reamer for the final sizing? A drill isn't good enough?

[Kev18]

I can order a ten piece set on Amazon with prime shipping. It has 3-12mm sizes. Is it good?

[uscra112]

Do I actually need a reamer though? I looked at videos and people say you drill a hole 15 thousands smaller and then use a reamer for the final sizing? A drill isn't good enough?
In a word, no. Drills cut holes +/- a couple of thousandths. This job needs a couple of "tenths".

[uscra112]

I can order a ten piece set on Amazon with prime shipping. It has 3-12mm sizes. Is it good?

A ten piece set of what? Chucking reamers? Send me the URL for what you're seeing.

[Traffer]

If you want a standard metric sized reamer (4mm?) You can get them on eBay for One Dollar US. They work fine if you are only doing a few pieces with them and not having to ream a deep hole:
(eBay links not permitted)
Also. Very easy to use. If you can chuck them in a drill and twist by hand. On a drill press it is very easy. Just don't spin them fast only hand speed. It's so easy your head will explode.

[uscra112]

If you want a standard metric sized reamer (4mm?) You can get them on eBay for One Dollar US. They work fine if you are only doing a few pieces with them and not having to ream a deep hole:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HSS-engineering-straight-drill-Hand-shank-reamer-Tool-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12mm/264153889445?hash=item3d80cc7aa5:m:mpzlOklHiXXu-yovgQkCFmA
Also. Very easy to use. If you can chuck them in a drill and twist by hand. On a drill press it is very easy. Just don't spin them fast only hand speed. It's so easy your head will explode.

For $1.00 EACH? If the deal seems too good to be true, it is.

Delivery from Hong Kong by the end August if not mid-September.

These probably cut a clearance hole, (they don't say), not the drag fit which is what you need. Do that, and you've spoiled not only the link but the lever and the breechblock. Bad risk.

BTW a cute trick that these ultra-cheap Chinese evilBay sellers are known for is selling reject merchandise to gullible Americans. Learned that the hard way quite a few years ago now. Never again.

Are they collecting your Credit Card information for later use? That's too often the purpose behind these ultra-cheap deals. Absolutely no way they're not taking a loss on these if they're offering free shipping.

Nothing personal, Traffer, but I would not touch this with a barge pole.

[Traffer]

For $1.00 EACH? If the deal seems too good to be true, it is.

Delivery from Hong Kong by the end August if not mid-September.

These probably cut a clearance hole, (they don't say), not the drag fit which is what you need. Do that, and you've spoiled not only the link but the lever and the breechblock. Bad risk.

BTW a cute trick that these ultra-cheap Chinese evilBay sellers are known for is selling reject merchandise to gullible Americans. Learned that the hard way quite a few years ago now. Never again.

Are they collecting your Credit Card information for later use? That's too often the purpose behind these ultra-cheap deals. Absolutely no way they're not taking a loss on these if they're offering free shipping.

Nothing personal, Traffer, but I would not touch this with a barge pole.

I defer to your expertise.

[Kev18]

Here are the reamers. If you want to check to find something better. Just use Amazon.ca (canadian) instead of .com... both sites dont always have the same stuff. :)
There is a bunch of kits.
https://www.amazon.ca/Straight-Chucking-Machine-Reamer-Milling/dp/B074M3SPDY/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=straight+shank+reamer&qid=1562820066&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

[indian joe]

For $1.00 EACH? If the deal seems too good to be true, it is.

Delivery from Hong Kong by the end August if not mid-September.

These probably cut a clearance hole, (they don't say), not the drag fit which is what you need. Do that, and you've spoiled not only the link but the lever and the breechblock. Bad risk.

BTW a cute trick that these ultra-cheap Chinese evilBay sellers are known for is selling reject merchandise to gullible Americans. Learned that the hard way quite a few years ago now. Never again.

Are they collecting your Credit Card information for later use? That's too often the purpose behind these ultra-cheap deals. Absolutely no way they're not taking a loss on these if they're offering free shipping.

Nothing personal, Traffer, but I would not touch this with a barge pole.

Thanks for the heads up fellers I just ordered the set - ten and a half bucks landed in my mailbox. !!

Have had some good use from cheap chinese tooling the last couple years - end mills, tungsten carbide ball cutters, diamond burrs, ...... if there is a fault its that some of this stuff is too hard (the end mills) and the cutter edges are a little less finished.

If you stick to Ebay and use paypal for the money there is no more risk than at your local grocery store - the scammers are selling on their own account off facebook - a good yardstick is if they will not accept paypal ........run!!!

Dont know how they manage the low cost shipping but they do it - I believe the Chinese govt subsidises that internally - we pay way more in Aussie dollar to send stuff across the country and american postage / shipping in much more expensive than ours even .....I have some experience in that not just talking out my hat.

So my bargepole has been unlimbered again - I have a little business going that sees me buying components out of China regularly - would be several hundred orders to date - and have had almost no problems - certainly no worse than buying similar items down the street - so I sneak a bit of workshop tooling past the local chanceller of the exchequer (wife/accountant) along with my electronics parts. :bigsmyl2:

[uscra112]

Oh, criminy, you're in Canada. Big problem. .ca doesn't list all the stuff I can get on .com. You sure you can't buy from Amazon.com? If not, we'll have to start over. It won't be the best job you can do, but it should improve on what you've got. From a set of number drills, find the largest one that will fit through the existing holes in the link. Ditto the holes in the lever and breechblock. Let me know what you find.

[uscra112]

OK, it took me a while to remember. McMaster-Carr ships to Canada. Major industrial supply house here. Very quick turnaround, no minimum, they take your credit card. Only drawback is no free shipping.

They don't have my first choice of reamer, so get this one:

https://www.mcmaster.com/8851a16

It's only a few "tenths"larger than my first choice, but it'll do fine.

While you're in there, order the 4mm dowel pins:

https://www.mcmaster.com/91595a155

Now you'll be set to "tighten-up" Favorites for the whole Province and beyond. Make new friends and influence people.

Bookmark the site. I order something-or-other from them at least once a month. Nothing but the best industrial grade stuff. When I was designing/building automation equipment for GM and Ford we put in an order to McMaster almost every day. Catalog weighs a metric ton. "If they don't have it, you don't need it" phrase was invented to describe them.

[Bent Ramrod]

Would it be possible to peen the center of the link (between the holes) slightly with a hammer and punch? With the pins in the link holes to keep them open, careful tapping and measuring and checking for fit would stretch the link a few thousandths, bringing the block up further, and tighter against the breech of the barrel.

The Page-Lewis I have came with the link hacksawed halfway apart and pried further apart with a screwdriver. Naturally, the gap closed again with a shot or two, but the basic notion of moving the holes apart was sound. (I wound up reproducing the link with a slightly larger hole spacing.)

You could get an extra link to practice on. Doesn’t require the commitment that reaming new holes in lever, link and block does.

[Kev18]

OK, it took me a while to remember. McMaster-Carr ships to Canada. Major industrial supply house here. Very quick turnaround, no minimum, they take your credit card. Only drawback is no free shipping.

They don't have my first choice of reamer, so get this one:

https://www.mcmaster.com/8851a16

It's only a few "tenths"larger than my first choice, but it'll do fine.

While you're in there, order the 4mm dowel pins:

https://www.mcmaster.com/91595a155

Now you'll be set to "tighten-up" Favorites for the whole Province and beyond. Make new friends and influence people.

Bookmark the site. I order something-or-other from them at least once a month. Nothing but the best industrial grade stuff. When I was designing/building automation equipment for GM and Ford we put in an order to McMaster almost every day. Catalog weighs a metric ton. "If they don't have it, you don't need it" phrase was invented to describe them.

The amazon ones aren't good enough? I know nothing about reamers but I probably wont use them again. So a pack of 10 for 30$ looks good to me...? I'd still need some pins though.

[uscra112]

Now, that is something I never thought of. I know Colt 'smiths do some peening on hands to fix indexing problems, and it might just work here. The link is not through-hardened, so it could be stretched. I'd still consider it a temporary fix; it'll depend on how much Kev cares about the gun.

That Page-Lewis - that was definitely the original link? Mine is mint, and looks made well enough that a link that was too short just doesn't seem possible.

[Kev18]

Now, that is something I never thought of. I know Colt 'smiths do some peening on hands to fix indexing problems, and it might just work here. The link is not through-hardened, so it could be stretched. I'd still consider it a temporary fix; it'll depend on how much Kev cares about the gun.

That Page-Lewis - that was definitely the original link? Mine is mint, and looks made well enough that a link that was too short just doesn't seem possible.

How do I go about pounding on this thing?

[uscra112]

You need an anvil, which can be any block of steel or iron weighing 5 or 10 lbs at least, and a special peening hammer, although any heavy hammer and a very dull cold chisel would do in a pinch. I hesitate to send you off in that direction. You will need an accurate dial or electronic caliper to gage your progress. Do you have one? Do you have a similar sized piece of steel to practice on? This is a skill that blacksmiths' apprentices used to spend years learning to do well.

Meanwhile, regarding the reamers: There's no way to know what size hole the Amazon reamers will actually cut. They don't tell you, and that alone makes me suspicious. The 4mm reamer I found at McMaster will cut 4.000 millimeters, plus .005mm, minus zero, with a very high degree of certainty. .005mm is about .0002", and that is the order of precision we need to make a good job of this. If the Amazon set would do that, they'd surely tell you, but they don't.

[Kev18]

You need an anvil, which can be any block of steel or iron weighing 5 or 10 lbs at least, and a special peening hammer, although any heavy hammer and a very dull cold chisel would do in a pinch. I hesitate to send you off in that direction. You will need an accurate dial or electronic caliper to gage your progress. Do you have one? Do you have a similar sized piece of steel to practice on? This is a skill that blacksmiths' apprentices used to spend years learning to do well.

Meanwhile, regarding the reamers: There's no way to know what size hole the Amazon reamers will actually cut. They don't tell you, and that alone makes me suspicious. The 4mm reamer I found at McMaster will cut 4.000 millimeters, plus .005mm, minus zero, with a very high degree of certainty. .005mm is about .0002", and that is the order of precision we need to make a good job of this. If the Amazon set would do that, they'd surely tell you, but they don't.

I have a 125 and 150 pound anvils, with a railroad track one I made. And I have an electronic caliper.

Honestly Id much rather drill my holes and add some pins.

[Bent Ramrod]

The Page Lewis links are nice and big; I have no explanation as to why it “needed” modification. The rifle was found in very good condition, except for the link and (IIRC) a missing takedown screw. I had to make a new one of those, too.

The trick with peening (for those without skill) is a lot of very light taps, with a light hammer, and frequent stops and careful measuring or checking for fit. Don’t look for evidence of flattening; that may be too much. I would turn the link over every stoppage and measurement as well. When I stretched the hand on a Colt Pocket Positive, I used a piece of drill rod and a tack hammer, with the hand on the “anvil” section of my Wilton vise, and it only took a few light taps. The link holes couldn’t need more than a few thousandths’ more separation.

I’ve had to make some “linklets” with varying hole spacing for the adult size single shots I’ve worked on that needed “re-linking.” I’d reproduce the right separation in the final link. There must be some sort of mathematical relationship between the link pin spacing and the extent to which the block slides up and/or forward, but I haven’t been able to figure it out.

[Kev18]

I put it all back together minus the firing pin thats coming. Look how loose the lever is.
Im pretty sure this thing got bubba'ed pretty bad. The pins are barely long enough to reach through the pieces. And a hole in the block is pretty severely oblong. The pins go in one side of a piece but not the other. They got pounded on so bad that they swaged out abit.
https://i.imgur.com/6x3tMYC.jpg

[Chev. William]

A small point:
The Favorite action needs the Barrel in place to check Breech Block and linkage fit properly.

Without the Barrel in place, the Breech Block can rotate up too far and not give any 'over center' tension to the Linkage.

Chev. William

[Kev18]

A small point:
The Favorite action needs the Barrel in place to check Breech Block and linkage fit properly.

Without the Barrel in place, the Breech Block can rotate up too far and not give any 'over center' tension to the Linkage.

Chev. William

You're right. Its a bit less than a half inch with the barrel. Still loose though.

[Chev. William]

Do you have a set of Shim stock feeler gauges?

If you do try closing the Breech on successively thicker feelers or two feeler stack to find how much 'head Space' you have between the barrel breech end, when the barrel is tightly held in the action, and the Breech Block face when the lever just closes without droop.
This should be less than .008" and is best if even less.
If your Favorite barrel is like several of my Stevens Barrels, the rebate for the rim is actually deeper than the typical RF rim due to erosion over Decades of Firing and Cleaning (or lack of it).

Obviously, the "Ideal Condition" is for the Breech block to just close tight with zero to .001" 'head space'; which is seldom the Case in my experience.

If you carefully inspect your Action, looking at the Interior of the Receiver body, you will notice that there is actually a space between the inside surfaces, including the bosses that support the Breech
Block pivot Screw and the Sides of the Breech Block.
This indicates that the Design loads the Screw in 'Bending' instead of 'Shear', which reduces The effective strength of the screw to resist Breech Bolt Thrust on firing a cartridge.

Note Also that the Breech Block slot in the top fo the receiver has two 'shoulders' where the Slot narrows for the Hammer.
If you are lucky, your Breech Block will 'bear on these two shoulders when it is fully Closed to 'Battery' position.

I have one 'favorite' that was received with such a Breech Block fit.
I have since found and purchased a few New Manufacturer Breech Blocks for made from 4140 cr Alloy Steel that i have had fitting pads of weld added to the appropriate area of the Breech Block so I can hand fit them to two other Receivers I own.
Sadly, the Manufacturer was 'disillusioned' by the Lack of Interest in them and refuses to make more.

Chev. William

[Kev18]

UPDATE: I got a firing pin. And it fired some cases that I made. So im moving forward. I also switched out the crooked lever screw with seemed to have also helped.

[uscra112]

Do you have a set of Shim stock feeler gauges?

If you do try closing the Breech on successively thicker feelers or two feeler stack to find how much 'head Space' you have between the barrel breech end, when the barrel is tightly held in the action, and the Breech Block face when the lever just closes without droop.
This should be less than .008" and is best if even less. Should be less than zero. Any clearnace at all lets the lever droop.
If your Favorite barrel is like several of my Stevens Barrels, the rebate for the rim is actually deeper than the typical RF rim due to erosion over Decades of Firing and Cleaning (or lack of it).

Obviously, the "Ideal Condition" is for the Breech block to just close tight with zero to .001" 'head space'; which is seldom the Case in my experience.

If you carefully inspect your Action, looking at the Interior of the Receiver body, you will notice that there is actually a space between the inside surfaces, including the bosses that support the Breech
Block pivot Screw and the Sides of the Breech Block.
This indicates that the Design loads the Screw in 'Bending' instead of 'Shear', which reduces The effective strength of the screw to resist Breech Bolt Thrust on firing a cartridge.

Note Also that the Breech Block slot in the top fo the receiver has two 'shoulders' where the Slot narrows for the Hammer.
If you are lucky, your Breech Block will 'bear on these two shoulders when it is fully Closed to 'Battery' position.

I have one 'favorite' that was received with such a Breech Block fit.
I have since found and purchased a few New Manufacturer Breech Blocks for made from 4140 cr Alloy Steel that i have had fitting pads of weld added to the appropriate area of the Breech Block so I can hand fit them to two other Receivers I own. Adding metal is definitely doing it the hard way. Simply open the pivot hole in the breechblock leg so that the breechblock can move rearward into contact. This assumes, of course, that the barrel will be set back, or a new barrel fitted, and trimmed to obtain the proper interference with the breechblock.

Sadly, the Manufacturer was 'disillusioned' by the Lack of Interest in them and refuses to make more.

Chev. William

@Bent Ramrod: The optimum linkage geometry sets the breechblock face perfectly square to the barrel axis. Hardly matters, since very few will make any pretense of being benchrest rifles today, so really the priority is to eliminate as much free play as possible from the linkage, and getting the firing pin in the proper position. Second priority is getting the breechblock shoulders in contact. Everything else is controlled by the barrel fitting and chambering.** It's a mighty fussy process; I guess I can see why Stevens seems to have abandoned all that fitting for the rimfires after 1896, and for the centerfires too, after the 44 1/2 was brought out.

**Trying to approach proper set-up by fiddling the breechblock and linkage is going at it backwards! But most bunkhouse gunsmiths will do that, because they don't understand the geometry, and usually lack a lathe.

Do you remember where the force-resolution diagrams that Chuck Dietz did are secreted on the forum? I'm not finding them.

[Bent Ramrod]

I proceed on the notion (true or not) that the original setup was more-or-less square and the only variable was wear on the parts as the lever was opened and shut, and the firing stress. In any case, with me it’s been cut-and-try.

Stevens rifles were made to a price, and any hand-fitting on the 44 breech block would be too costly. It’s amazing how well they shoot, even as assembled. I have one wrecked 414 that had an oversized (or off-center forward) hole reamed in the breechblock and frame when I got it as a basket case. I made a slightly small pivot pin out of hardened drill-rod, set back and refitted the barrel, and then lapped the rear of the block and receiver shoulders to a close fit. It does shoot like a house afire, but that was a lot of work. Whether it’s cost-effective is certainly in the eye of the beholder.

Weren’t those stress diagrams on the ASSRA site? I remember seeing them but can’t recall where.

[uscra112]

I proceed on the notion (true or not) that the original setup was more-or-less square and the only variable was wear on the parts as the lever was opened and shut, and the firing stress. In any case, with me it’s been cut-and-try.

Stevens rifles were made to a price, and any hand-fitting on the 44 breech block would be too costly. It’s amazing how well they shoot, even as assembled. I have one wrecked 414 that had an oversized (or off-center forward) hole reamed in the breechblock and frame when I got it as a basket case. I made a slightly small pivot pin out of hardened drill-rod, set back and refitted the barrel, and then lapped the rear of the block and receiver shoulders to a close fit. It does shoot like a house afire, but that was a lot of work. Whether it’s cost-effective is certainly in the eye of the beholder.

Weren’t those stress diagrams on the ASSRA site? I remember seeing them but can’t recall where.

Right. Forgot where I was for a moment there.

You did what I now do - let the breechblock float back into contact with the receiver shoulders, and proceed from there.

I have never had, nor will I likely ever have, a really high grade one to mess about with. Others have said that they were better fitted, but I will never be able to confirm. On such matters hinges the fate of the world. I have noticed that my small sample of the 3-digit models seem to be better made and fitted. In fitting new link pins to a 108 I was surprised to find how much better the case hardening was, compared to the run-of-the-bog 44s. I actually had to pull out a carbide center-drill to break it before my drill would bite.

[Drm50]

I have tightened up quite a few Stevens and H&A 22s that had come loose from wear. It may be a cheap shot but I use a reamer on one side by hand to true up the hole. Then drill through on drill press. Then use the shank of the bit for the pin. The worst cases I get are when previous owners bubba them badly enough holes have to be filled and redrilled.

[Kev18]

I have tightened up quite a few Stevens and H&A 22s that had come loose from wear. It may be a cheap shot but I use a reamer on one side by hand to true up the hole. Then drill through on drill press. Then use the shank of the bit for the pin. The worst cases I get are when previous owners bubba them badly enough holes have to be filled and redrilled.

I was thinking of using a drill bit as a pin also but I was worried that they could be to hard and snap? With the shock from firing or something? I'm not an expert at metallurgy or anything.
Jack of all trades. Master of none.

[uscra112]

Drill shanks are in fact very tough, and make excellent pins, but drills usually cut a hole a couple-or-three thou bigger than the shank, so you start out of the blocks with the action still a bit loose.

[Drm50]

Drill shanks are in fact very tough, and make excellent pins, but drills usually cut a hole a couple-or-three thou bigger than the shank, so you start out of the blocks with the action still a bit loose.
That is very true, like I said it's somewhat of a cheap shot. I turn firing pins out of drill bit shanks too. A little heat treat with a torch and you are in business. Once in a while get one to hard and it snaps. Drill bits are like everything else, don't use cheap HWD store bits to make anything.

[Kev18]

I might give this a shot one day soon... It seems to fire for now.