336 Marlin 1950 model

[Odinbreaker]

I picked up a 1950 model 336 c for 250 with 2 boxes of shells. No safety except half cock n drill and tap for a scope. I am thinking about casting a 200 boolit for this gun.
I may have to put on a receiver sight so I can hit something. Or maybe i should sell it kind of undecided. I have never had one shot lots of 357 and 360 DW in my H&R rifle. The bigest 357 mould I have is 150 Semi Wad cutter. This has ballard rifling I am not sure how that shoots cast.

[skeet1]

Is this rifle in .35 Remington? If it is, I had one just like it. It was a great gun and I wish I still had it. I tried shooting lead revolver bullets with mild success.

Skeet1

[Jack Stanley]

I have a thirty caliber with the Ballard rifling and it shoots very well . I just put a Lyman reciever sight on it ( I think it's a model 48 sight ) and with the sight all the way down it still is shooting high at a hundred yards . I think I'm going to have to find a taller front sight for it now .
Find a load it likes and enjoy it it won't be to hard to do :-D

Jack

[PatMarlin]

I picked up a 1949 in 3030 earlier this year. Very cool old rifle with period Hunter leather and brass sling. I love the feel of these old 336's.

Was going to shoot it today but got tired and haven't left the couch..

[Bass Ackward]

I got one. It goes in the coffin in case I go the right direction.

[PatMarlin]

In 30 or 35?

[Bass Ackward]

In 30 or 35?


Now which one would you figure? :grin:

Hint: I said going the right way. If I was sure that I going the wrong way, I get a 30 so no one would want to steal it from me. :grin:

[Odinbreaker]

It is a 35 remington

[IcerUSA]

My 35 shoots good so far , I'm using the RCBS 35-200 GC in it . Have a few .357 moulds to try out next summer for plinkers , had Buckshot HP one of the WC moulds as I had 2 of that design , just might make a good varmit boolit . :)
With medfull hunting loads it is a kicker with H4198 and a couple other loads but for deer season I guess they will do for know . :)
Grats on the new to you rifle . Enjoy .

Keith

[Odinbreaker]

Thanks Icer I use my 357 mag rifle for plinking with 150 gr cast I just load up a bunch of 38's for my S&W 15 and use them in my h&R rifle. The 35 will be for deer.

[45r]

That is a good deal for 250,especially if in good shape.Ranch dog boolit coming out soon for it.rcbs 200 fn should work well.Having a custom made 215 GC with a .359 diameter 60 thou long front band,72 percent metplat,.470 nose and 354 to 355 .120 long bore-rider made for my 1977 MG model and might get RD mold when it becomes available.35 cal leverguns are vastly underated and lots of fun to shoot.My mold will be somewhat of a combination of the RD and rcbs design and be a snug fit in the chamber.I have found that long heavy boolits that have around 75 percent or more of their length supported shoot well.Your rifle with ballard rifling would need soft air cooled WW to engrave the bore-rider in my upcoming mold but it would probably shoot very well but have a little crush fit resistance the last 1/8 inch of lever closing.That centers the boolit in the bore and is good to prevent misfires in rimless levergun rounds also.My MG barrel has .355 bore diameter and should be pefect fit.Even my 185 grain LBT gas check type .359 boolits would engrave 90 thou of their .140 nose with slight lever crush resistance using air cooled WW.

[Bret4207]

The RCBS 35-200 is a winner in that rifle. I have a 336SC and love it. Don't sell it! You'll kick yourself. It's like the 357 only a lot more! 357 pistol boolits and bullets work fine.

[357maximum]

RCBS 35-200 + ballard rifled 336 in 35 remington = heaven:bigsmyl2:


I have 2 of em in 35 (RC & SC) and also a pair of RC's in 30/30......I simply love these old workhorse irons...and do they ever shoot.....:bigsmyl2::bigsmyl2::bigsmyl2:


Do not sell it...you will never forgive yourself

[georgeky]

That was a great deal on the .35. It will shoot those 150's OK but 200's are better. Will kill most anything around. Remington used to offer a factory load with 150's for the .35 and still may. I haven't seen them anywhere for a while so don't know for sure.

Like the others say hang on to it. The 336 and the .35 Rem are a match made in heaven.

[Newtire]

I am picking up mine tomorrow. It is also in .35 Remington and a 24" rifle. Looks a little beat up but am looking forward to cleaning up the wood.

One thing is that it is not drilled & tapped for scope and was thinking of doing that unless this is some kind of a collector's item. It has a matte finish on top of the receiver and drilled for a receiver sight on the side.

[Bass Ackward]

I am picking up mine tomorrow. It is also in .35 Remington and a 24" rifle. Looks a little beat up but am looking forward to cleaning up the wood.

One thing is that it is not drilled & tapped for scope and was thinking of doing that unless this is some kind of a collector's item. It has a matte finish on top of the receiver and drilled for a receiver sight on the side.



Yep. That's the way they come.

I put a receiver sight on mine and I will see how that works out for me at my current eye sight ability. Mine was virtually brand new when I got it. Still looks that way. Been loading it single shot instead of scratching the loading gate. So I was (and still am) concerned about modifications.

But if this gun works out and I maintain my love affair with it, I'll do what's necessary to make the gun the most enjoyable for me. To hell with the value. How much is a used gun going to lose if you drill and tap it?

My point is that you should enjoy the gun for you, not keep it for someone else. If I can't bring myself to do that, or someone makes me an offer I just can't refuse, then I will sell the gun cause I ain't bending around a $400 / $500 gun. Life's too short. I got a brand new 2 1/2X Weaver sitting on the bench downstairs crying to get out the box.

[PatMarlin]

When I found my 1949, I was dissapointed that it had been tapped. Only because it just looked like a shame to tap in to those cool looking curvy lines. I'm not knocking someone who decides to do it, but I most likely would not have. I do believe they will one day command a collector value.

I am envious of you guys with the old .35, and I will find one some day.

I've got a mint circa 1972 in 35 rem with gorgeous factory wood. Haven't fired that rifle in 8 years.

Lord where does the time go.

[Bass Ackward]

I've got a mint circa 1972 in 35 rem with gorgeous factory wood. Haven't fired that rifle in 8 years. Lord where does the time go?


Now you know why it's mint!

But I can tell you where the time goes ........................... the couch. :bigsmyl2:

[PatMarlin]

My couch gets very litte use cept when I'm at the point of total exhaustion. All the rest of my time goes to earning.

It ain't easy making living in a broke county self employed. May I go as far as to say a broke country these days?.. :mrgreen:

I'll give you $300 for the rifle John ..:mrgreen:

[johnly]

Sounds like you have a Marlin 336A. I looked for my Ballard rifled 336A in 35 Remington for years before I found a nice one. I just stumbled onto a 1950 336A 32 WS on a visit to a local gun shop by accident. That's just the way it is sometimes.

I'd leave the rifle stock and put a Williams 5D receiver sight on it.

John





Yep. That's the way they come.

I put a receiver sight on mine and I will see how that works out for me at my current eye sight ability. Mine was virtually brand new when I got it. Still looks that way. Been loading it single shot instead of scratching the loading gate. So I was (and still am) concerned about modifications.

But if this gun works out and I maintain my love affair with it, I'll do what's necessary to make the gun the most enjoyable for me. To hell with the value. How much is a used gun going to lose if you drill and tap it?

My point is that you should enjoy the gun for you, not keep it for someone else. If I can't bring myself to do that, or someone makes me an offer I just can't refuse, then I will sell the gun cause I ain't bending around a $400 / $500 gun. Life's too short. I got a brand new 2 1/2X Weaver sitting on the bench downstairs crying to get out the box.

[Bass Ackward]

My couch gets very litte use cept when I'm at the point of total exhaustion. All the rest of my time goes to earning.

It ain't easy making living in a broke county self employed. May I go as far as to say a broke country these days?.. :mrgreen:

I'll give you $300 for the rifle John ..:mrgreen:


Naaaa Pat, you keep the $300.

Wouldn't want to contribute to you going to the couch. [smilie=6:

[PatMarlin]

Don't make me fly back there Mr.. :mrgreen:

[Bret4207]

The only 35 factory stuff I could find was 150's, so they must still make it. IMO using jacketed in a 35 Rem is about like putting 106 octane racing gas in my Toyota pickup. Why bother when good old regular lead will do everything the high priced stuff will?

[compass will]

I got a 1949 336SC 30-30 in almost brand new condition. It was my grand moms deer gun, but she only shot it a couple times (they really took her to deer camp to cook).
If I found one in 32 it would be hard to pass up.

[Odinbreaker]

I also got 2 boxes of 200 gr jacket bullets with this gun. .

[hydraulic]

A friend just bought one and stopped by to show it to me. 336c .30-30. Pretty rough, but honest use. $150 with three boxes of shells. When did Marlin start drilling and tapping the receiver?

[Newtire]

I picked mine up today. According to the Internet, it's a 1951. I plan on putting the receiver sight on it and maybe poutting on a sling.

I am going to bed as I just put on the 2nd coat of Tung Oil. It's looking real good!

I paid $300 for mine and it was just for the rifle-no shells. I ain't complaining!

[Shotgun Luckey]

I've got one is .35 rem for sale....its a 1969 vintage....Not actually mine, but a widow

[PatMarlin]

What serial number letter designation and year was the very first 336 in 35 rem built?

[Odinbreaker]

They started taging serial no to year of manufacture in 1948 but I am sure the 35 was produced before that 1948 may be first year production of Model 336 i don't know for sure

[Odinbreaker]

They started in 1948 in 30 30 35 was added later 1949 or early 1950 this maybe a very early model SN is G 1--4

[Chuck 100 yd]

The only problem I have had with my Marlin 336 w/ aBallard rifling is that the throat is tight causing hard chambering (just the last 1/4"or so of cartridge movement in the chamber) with the Lyman 200gr bullet. A switch to softer alloy did the trick.
5 shots at 50yd. IMR 4198 at aprox 1600fps.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c356/chuckleininger/IMG_1143.jpg
IIRC, they started D&T ing. them in 53 or 54.
Mine is an SC from 49. and has a Lyman receiver sight and Sourdough (redfield) front.

[PatMarlin]

Awesome Chuck... why the super glue?

[NHlever]

35 Remington levers are a lot of fun, and generally shoot very well! I have a pre safety microgroove, and and older 336A that I'm cleaning up. ( It was pretty rough outside, but very clean inside.)
For 150-170 gr. pistol boolits try 8-11 grains of Unique. The 11 grain load works very well for gc boolits like the 358156, but may be a little hot for plain base boolits, especially those with a bevel base. I even shot some 148 gr double end wadcutters in mine with a very light charge of Red Dot, and it worked fine at 25 yards, but fell apart at 50.

[pietro]

[What serial number letter designation and year was the very first 336 in 35 rem built?]

1950, serial prefix "G "

Here's an ad, of the day:

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd30/Pete44ru/V383.jpg

.

[357maximum]

Awesome Chuck... why the super glue?

I bet it because of the same reasons I slightly lapped the GC shank area out in both my 358315 and my 358315HP molds...they fit a bit too loose and he wanted them to stay on.....a blown check is not only hard on chronographs they also make pretty little gpoups shudder with the flyer in the ointment.

[Bass Ackward]

They started in 1948 in 30 30 35 was added later 1949 or early 1950 this maybe a very early model SN is G 1--4



Normally I wouldn't care because I don't buy guns based upon production of collector value. But in this case, it would be nice to know for sure. The new one I got was G 304*. I know the gun was a present in 1950, but that's it.

[Odinbreaker]

Mine is G1024

[6pt-sika]

At the moment I own no less then FOUR Marlin's chambered for the 35 Marlin cartridge .

The first I purchased was my 1952 vintage 336SC . Got this one in Hamlin PA about 5 years ago for $250 . The rifle is about 97% . Came from a gunshop there .

Next I got a NIB Marlin 336D that came from Tanner's gunshop in the Doylestown PA area .

My third was the 336XLR last year before hunting season . And then back during the spring of this year I picked up a nice used 336D from one of my local dealers .

I shoot cast bullets only in the 336SC and my second 336D . I use the RCBS 35-200GC and the new Ranch Dog 359-190GC bullet . They both shoot very well in both rifles . That RD bullet does well in my 356 WIN as well !

In the first 336D I shoot handloaded 200 grain Remington Core Lokt RN bullets and in the 336XLR I have pretty much decided to just use the rubber tipped Hornady factory rounds .

I still think one day I'll need a nice old 336A in 35 REM that is pre 1955 ! And of course that will be another cast bullet gun .

[gzig5]

I hate to butt in here but I just picked up a 1955 dated 336 RC in 35 Rem. There is very little finish left but it still has the plug screw in the scope and reciever sight holes, and I only paid $200. It was dirty, but the bore cleaned up real nice and seems to have a taper smaller at the muzzle. Now, this is my first lever action and first .35 Remington. How do they handle the Semi-wadcutters for feeding? There are a couple of 180gr silloutte designs that look like they would hit pretty hard. Are the round nose the only option in a 200gr+ or are there FP designs out there?
Greg

[Newtire]

Hey Greg,

Here's a guy who has been with our little bunch here for quite some time and gets Lee to make the moulds he sells. I have one in the 44 design so just sent for the 190 gr in .358.

Here is the link to his site.

http://www.ranchdogmolds.com/

[Chuck 100 yd]

Yes, I super glued the checks on for testing different alloys. The checks are not real tight when using softer alloys but fine with ww. I didn`t want to modify the mold untill I decided on an alloy.

[PatMarlin]

I see. thanks-

[corgiman]

They started in 1948 in 30 30 35 was added later 1949 or early 1950 this maybe a very early model SN is G 1--4

They started with the 30-30 and 32. I have a 1950 waffletop serial G777.

I've noticed that generally serial numbers are not mentioned on websites. Is there a legal reason for this? I did not know the serial number of my Marlin 336 in 35 Remington when I bought it through Gunbroker, but was delighted and amused when I got it.

I've been less pleased when I had a carrier problem and found that Marlin no longer stocks that part and have not been able to find one anywhere. It functions now thanks to some TIG welding, but I would like to get a good part for this lucky rifle.

[TXGunNut]

They started with the 30-30 and 32. I have a 1950 waffletop serial G777.

I've noticed that generally serial numbers are not mentioned on websites. Is there a legal reason for this?



Welcome to the forum!
Zombie thread alert! ;-)
I'd prefer not to publish the complete SN's of my rifles for a number of reasons, generally drop off the last two because they are not necessary to establish production dates.

[hickfu]

Wow, old thread.. but since it was brought back to life, I purchased a 1950 336A in 35 Rem for 400 out the door last year and its in dang near mint condition. Its not drilled and tapped but I am thinking of getting it done. I will never sell the rifle so Im not concerned with the collector value of an unmolested waffle top. My eyes dont work good on open sights any more so all long guns I own are scoped.