Sloppy Cylinder in my Ruger NMBH

[Icebear]

As I had to learn irritatedly: the cylinder of my new New Model Blackhawk Convertible (.45, 4.6") is quite sloppy resp. has a (remarkable) play, also in cocked condition. I am not used to that with revolvers. My revolvers don't have such a behavior, for example my old Rossi .38S (about 350 Dollars) or my .22 Harrington&Richardson (400-500 Dollars), as well as any other revolver I had in my hands so far. I always thought, that is a bad sign.
That play or sloppiness surprised me even more at a new (and newly designed) revolver, even more as it is a remarkably more expensive product as the mentioned ones above.
I read / heard, that this is purportedly intended by Ruger. The manufacturer would design and manufacture a bit of cylinder/base pin play as an aid to proper cylinder/bullet/forcing cone alignment.
1. Question:
Could that be some kind of an excuse or some kind of making a virtue of necessity?
2.Question:
If this make no sense; there are manufacturers offering alternative base-pins such as Belt Mountain or Wolff. Would you recommend such a solution, or shall I leave it as it is?

[onelight]

What kind of play are you finding? End play ? Or side to side play when cocked?

[DougGuy]

What you consider sloppy may not be at all. Rugers are built with enough slack that when they are fired, the forcing cone can easily move the cylinder to be more in line with the bore, which works fairly well, and keeps the guns affordable. Although there are loose tolerances in manufacturing, it's VERY doubtful you will batter one or wear it out anytime in this lifetime. That slop as you call it, actually promotes longevity.

Even with the tolerances, a Ruger SA revolver with A.) properly sized cylinder throats, B.) properly cut forcing cone, C.) Wolff 30oz. trigger return spring, will normally shoot into 1 1/2" at 25yds with the right loads.

I don't use nor do I recommend the larger base pin, all this does is restrict lateral movement of the cylinder and cause the gun to wear the forcing cone at one area.

[Outpost75]

^^^^THIS^^^^

It is really refreshing to read a post written by somebody who understands how a revolver works.

[sandog]

IceBear, DougGuy is giving you good advice.
Iowegan on rugerforum.net told you pretty much the same thing about tolerances, and he is also very knowledgeable when it comes to Ruger revolvers. He suggested putting a shim washer between the trigger and cylinder latch (bolt stop) if you are going to do anything.

Both of my Ruger .45's, a Flattop and a new Vaquero have some movement both with hammer down and with hammer back. They are pretty accurate in spite of the movement.
So is my 30 year old S&W 686, and it will shoot one hole groups out of a rest, and shoots 1 inch 25 yard groups even with my old eyes doing the aiming. The Smith has about the same cylinder movement as both Rugers.
Leave it as is and enjoy the Convertible.
I guess if it still bugs you, stick with Rossi and H&R.

[onelight]

If you are comparing a single action to double action pistols they don’t work the same pressure on the trigger will take the play out on a da gun but not a sa gun , the sa will be the same cocked and trigger back as it is hammer down with with no pressure on the trigger.

[lefty o]

first of all, rugers arent what you would call a precision built anything, but there will be some play in the cylinder. enough to feel by hand if you grab the cyl and move it. it shouldnt be a lot though, so the question is, how much play does yours really have?

[Greg S]

SHoot it for groups and try and find a load that shoots well. Not Doug's advice. Do alittle trigger work (polish the trigger and hammer hook engaugement suraces without changing the angles and reduce the hammer hook/dog some and install the mentioned lighter Wolff trigger return spring. If that doesn't do it for you, install a qbelt mountain pin but verify with a gauge that your not off center on alignment. If it sound like too much, pick up a production FA or a line bored custom.

[9.3X62AL]

1) Have you shot the revolver?

2) If you shot it--did accuracy or performance suffer in some manner?

3) If the cylinder clocking is as you describe it--and it is unpleasing to you--don't purchase it.

[marshall623]

Good thread and great replies, I have often wondered about my GP100 it some lateral movement with the hammer down and about 1/2 of that with hammer cocked . It still shoots better than my abilities so Ive left it alone and felt confident that Ruger would make right if there really was an issue.

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