Inheriting a .410, opinions on reloading

[PerpetualStudent]

My wife's grandfather passed last year and the estate is being settled. I'm inheriting his break action .410 less because I'm interested in the caliber and more because he told me it was the gun he first used. So I want it to be the first gun my daughters use. That's a piece of family history you can't buy.

On the one hand I don't know how much it will be used. On the other hand since it's not going to be sold having the means to reload it seems a reasonable thing. The cost of a press seems rather high. I've been looking into the older posts and see that some people use brass shells or fireform brass into a .410 shell the only thing that makes me leery there is that the brass shells are only published with BP loads. Smokeless you're in unpublished territory and this gun is at least 70 years old.

I'm curious what direction you guys would be inclined. Last time I cheaped out on reloading I regretted it and did not wind up saving any money. But I can't quite bring myself to look at a 150-250 press for a gun I won't be using all the time. I know the .410 lee loaders command a premium but right now that seems the logical place to go. Opinions?

[psweigle]

I would buy a couple boxes of factory shells if you don't plan on shooting it a lot. But, if you are dead set on reloading for it, look into the "survival reloader".

[trapper9260]

I would say the same as psweigle also. If you do want to set up a reloader you can also make one from the parts from a single stage Mec reloader. and also make some of the parts yourself.I had try to set up one of my sisters that way but she did not follow on the rest.I had came up with some things for her.and told her what she had to get.

[mattw]

I have been gearing up to load 444 Marlin cases for a 410 bolt gun. I have only gotten as far as fireforming the cases. I intend to load with smokeless, they will not be hot loads, but rather lighter loads for coons and possums and such. I do not expect to need any dies or presses. Just something to cut wads and will hand prime and deprime will need a scale for powder and shot and that should be about it.

[Harter66]

410 data is plentiful but wads are a little skimpy .
You can use , I think , a 303/30-40 Krag shell holder to size the brass . A roll crimp tool is probably the least expensive way to load 410 . A MEC is north of $350 for 410 . Parts to convert one is over $150 . Decapping is kind of pain as is getting it back in . In my very limited experience standard data worked up appropriately in brass cases is fine . Several points , the brass cases have a lot less base in them than plastic cases and keep in mind that a 2 1/2 .410 is only 2 1/4" closed . Depending on case source you may gain space to nearly equal the 3" plastic case in a 2.5" brass case .

If you have access try a 460 S&W case .
If you're forming 30-40 is longer than 303 but head and base dimensions are the same .
I didn't try 444 brass or 460 in the 45/410 I was messing with at the time .
If you don't mind a little busy work I think belted mags can be debelted also .

[Paper Puncher]

Check the chamber length. Some older .410's where only chambered for 2 1/2" shells not the 3" shells.

All I used my .410 for was hunting/pest control. Would take years to recoup the cost of a press.

The 444 Marlin case option might be fun and not horribly expensive.

[725]

.444 Marlin works just fine. Never crimped any - just over shot card and Elmer's white glue

[country gent]

I believe there are 7/8 14 die sets for loading 410 in a rifle handgun press. the only issue is the crimp you may have to roll crimp or use and overshot wad lightly glued in. There might be a sizing die for a straight walled rifle case that will work also. The big part is sizing back down so the round will chamber again and at the shotgun pressures this doesn't take a lot. Then its simply drop the powder charge and insert wad stack or wads drop shot charge and crimp or over shot card. Most can be done easily with out a press.
I believe lee made a load all in 410 also that is a mallet type tool but it could be used with a light arbor press also.

[Abert Rim]

Midway has the Ballistic Products roll crimp tool for about $30. A friend uses one and his loads look and shoot great.

[Markopolo]

I would tell you, unless you want to get serious about reloading it, you don’t need any sort of reloading press. A simple roll crimper is all you really need. I use one on my drill press. I don’t suggest you do brass shells, unless your going to get advanced into reloading for 410. It opens another whole level, which unless you are really gunna use it, is probably overkill.. get some 2400 powder, and a BPI roll crimper, and you can do what you want...

PM me if you want, and I can help you get started.

Marko

[gpidaho]

I have way more 410 reloading gear than anyone needs. My advice is to just find a means of knocking the primer out and buy a 410 roll crimping tool. You can reprime like you would with the Lee loaders using a wooden dowel, fill in the needed powder and wads, push down tight and roll crimp. Helps get a nice clean crimp if you reload 3" hulls to cut off the old crimp to 2 1/2". Gp

[Reverend Al]

As suggested for a small volume of shooting, but the economy of reloading I'd use .303 British or .30-40 Krag cases blown out straight. I form cases for my Lee Enfield No. 1 MK III in .410 Musket (.303 British as a straight case in a single shot smoothbore rifle). I anneal the cases about 1/2 way down the body, then prime them, load about 8.0 to 8.5 grains of Nitro Trap 100 (since I have a lot of it, but any fast burning shotgun or pistol powder will do such as Red Dot, 700X, Bullseye, etc.). I use a wooden dowel to press a 1/4 sheet of toilet tissue down onto the powder charge, then fill the case with bulk yellow cornmeal, and cap it off with another 1/4 sheet of toilet paper pressed in with my wooden dowel. The British had both a single round ball load plus shot loads. I'd fire-form suitable brass cases in your .410 shotgun which should have a very long reloading life. The fire-formed cases shouldn't need resizing again either since they'll be used in the same gun they were fire-formed in. The thinner walled brass cases will need slightly oversized card and fibre wads to seal properly, but Circle Fly Wads offers suitable card and fibre wads at very reasonable prices. If you can find suitable size punches you could cut your own card and fibre wads as an alternative. Work up loads using published data for .410 shells using 4227 or 2400. The thinner walled brass cases will have larger volume than plastic hulls thereby yielding lower velocities and pressures, so just start a bit low of the published loads and work up until you are satisfied with the results. Good luck with the project!

https://i.imgur.com/fy3HB4D.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/FToT3vI.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zeyZGLc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/cYtP7Lw.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jjKzJzN.jpg

[gunarea]

Sorry guys
Don't mean to be arbitrary, but, if the kid/s like shooting the 410, you are gonna be busy. I loaded 410 for two boys and two girls. You can load reasonable shells with the old Lee whack-a-shell. You can load reasonable shells on the old Lee plastic press even faster. A 45acp size die with the decap rod removed will size empties. Re-prime without a press has obvious pitfalls. Roll crimp is tricky on 410 hulls with a single rod roll crimp tool. More expensive two and four rod crimp tools do much better on 410s. Collapsed hulls don't work! Glue crimping works but generally degrades patterns. For her first gun, correct consistent performance will definitely help with young shooter confidence.
Bite the proverbial bullet and get a good loading press. As you have learned from your research, 410 loading tools do not depreciate. A MEC 650 is OK but, get a Sizemaster or a Grabber and after several hundred rounds you will understand the bargin. My 410 usage paid for my presses long ago and many times over. The Sizemaster is more versatile and will accommodate playing with and adjusting 410 shells for specific uses. I make a 2" 410 for little kids to shoot and local squirrel control. Correctly crimping a loaded round will improve patterns and give much more consistent velocities. Both the MEC presses mentioned will load any 410 hull you pick up and make it function well, with a good crimp. This is a once in a lifetime purchase for a Daddy period that you will not be able to put a price tag on. My kid/s still love to shoot the 410s.
Good skill to you.
Roy

[Hamish]

243509

What's in the loaded shell, eh?[smilie=1:

[richhodg66]

I too inherited a nice old Iver Johnson I haven't shot, then got a little utility "snake charmer" type of thing that rides in my lap when I mow or gets carried around my place. I looked into reloading and got 25 Magtech brass cases. Read this article by Ed Harris;

https://www.grantcunningham.com/2014/07/ed-harris-how-to-make-and-load-all-brass-410-shotshells/

[brass410]

I'd be willing to bet when you start reloading these wether in plastic, or brass, bp or smokeless, you'll have a blast doing it. I load all brass and plastic, and yes I do some with BP and some with smokeless. I've found lots of recipes in older manuals citing red dot and others of the era, personally I have used a lot of lil gun and 410 aliant in my brass with no apperent issues as of yet (2k rounds plus) my wife loves her little tenner its pretty tough on the grouse with a stiff load of BP under #2 shot and a roll crimp or elmers white to top it off. Go ahead and try it you'll like it

[richhodg66]

Did I read that right, #2 shot? Seems kinda big for a .410 and grouse.

[Markopolo]

Number 8 for grouse around here.

[rking22]

Personally I am in the “go on and get a press “ camp. But then I love shooting 410 and so does my son. You can get a single stage MEC generally for under150$ used, and if you don’t find it useful, you will sell it for what you have for it, easily. Remember, you won’t use it up, and don’t need to throw it away when the interest passes, they hold their value and sell quickly. At 9$+ a box the 410 is the quickest payback of any gage. 12s aren’t worth loading unless you shoot special loads, but 28s and 410s are. You will be surprised how much ammo you will go thru, the things are a ball. The 2 of us went thru 150 shells in a Yildiz 410 single, just playing around after a skeet clinic!

[bikerbeans]

243509

What's in the loaded shell, eh?[smilie=1:

Too my bad eyes it looks like an MT 303 Brit before it was FF to 410.

BB

[fecmech]

Federal has recently come out with their Top Gun promotional loads in .410 and 28 ga. Walmart has recently started carrying them at $6.97/box of 25. Not as good as 12 and 20 ga shells at $5./box but a step in the right direction. If you start shooting more than a couple boxes per month then I would look for an old single stage press. You should be able to load .410's for around $3./box

[Reverend Al]

243509

What's in the loaded shell, eh?[smilie=1:

These are the fire-forming load with yellow cornmeal described in my original post. The "white" you can see down below the case mouth is the final 1/4 sheet of toilet tissue that is holding the cornmeal in place before fire-forming. By the way, if you point the muzzle straight up in the air when you fire them the brass cases will form square to the chamber and won't be "lop-sided with a bulge on one side.

[Reverend Al]

Oh, and I've formed about 100 plus of these .410 Musket cases so far and haven't had a single case split on fire-forming ... (I'm positive that the annealing before fire-forming is that reason for that) ...

[9.3X62AL]

Buy 2-4 boxes of factory shells to 1) accumulate hulls and 2) figure out if reloading for the 410 is a thing you want to do. I bought a MEC 600 JR many years ago and load 3" shells for my 410s, which I shoot a lot of. I use #9 shot in 410 and 28 gauge almost to the exclusion of other shot sizes.

[GhostHawk]

I reload for my .410 with tools I made myself.

A dowel that fits inside the .410 shell fairly close.
Another dowel with a finishing nail epoxied into the end and sanded till it would go through the flash hole easily.
A short piece of 2x2 with a big enough hole drilled to accept the spent primer.

Add a powder dipper which is not hard to make once you decide on a powder.
A shot dipper.

Ballistic's Products for hulls, wads, primers, and powder.

Or you can buy a box of Mechtech brass .410 hulls and either shoot black powder. Or go comepletly off road and work up your own smokeless loads.

It can be done, and it can be done on a shoestring. No vast amounts of money required.
https://fromthetrenchesworldreport.com/homemade-410-reloading-kit/60500

This will get you moving in the right direction.

As to shooting a .410, especially with children, keep the targets on the closer side. 25-30 yards should work good.
With practice you can get out farther. But tough birds like ducks are hard to kill at 50 + yards.

[ncmn]

Interested in this as well, I am looking at purchasing a Hatfield .410 just for experimenting with loads as I am new to shotgun reloading. Not sure I am ready to buy a Mec yet as I don't know enough about them. Keep the posts coming as I'm learning a lot.

[cwlongshot]

Look up 450 Mongo

Can be a fun project

CW

[PerpetualStudent]

Good stuff. I appreciate hearing the voice of experience. Since it's a break action single shot, I don't have a place to throw my own clays, and my girls are still a couple years away, I'll hold off on the press for the moment. Unless I see an unbelievably good deal. Start with a few boxes and if we are burning through them then see about reloading.

I do like the look of those brass loads. Are you looking for signs of pressure like you would in a rifle/pistol round? I know in shotshell reloading books they say "follow the recipe" partially because with a plastic or paper hull your first sign of dangerous pressure could be your gun exploding. Does that change when you're using brass?

[ncmn]

Is there enough difference between the size master and the Jr. to pay the difference?

[gpidaho]

I'm going to pass along the brass case load that I shoot in my break barrel Rossi 410. It is safe to shoot in MY shotgun. For the safety of all concerned please take this with the appropriate amount of concern. 444 Marlin brass, any large rifle primer, 12gr. Blue Dot, .070 nitro card, Claybuster WAA clone with the petals cut back to 1/8" from the case mouth, fill to 1/8" below case mouth with shot, place overshot card on top of shot and TiteBond or Elmer's glue to finish. I have shot a few with a bit more Blue Dot but don't find more to be helpful. The load gives patterns as good or better than 2 1/2 factory shells and you can reload the cases may times without any resizing. Gp

[gunarea]

Hey ncmn
The difference between the size master and the MEC jr is the sizing. The size master has a collet sizing which allows picking up range hulls. Picking up any 410 discard is like walking around picking up half dollars. A clothes bag 1/2 full, into a washing machine and you have clean usable hulls. Mec jr does no sizing. When considering overall costs, 410 hulls only come in second to 28ga hulls, regardless of where you may purchase them. Even new, there is no justification to the price they get. I have been scrounging 410 hulls for fifty five years now and wish I had started earlier. Loading shells is a personal thing in which many enjoy spending time putting each element in its place then gently nesting them together. Others may need several hundred rounds cause the kids wanna go shoot. Personal preference. As I stated earlier, 410 loading tools do not depreciate. You want more about 410s, just ask.
Roy

[rking22]

Do not try to judge pressure on shotshells by metallic measures. Remember , the GUN is designed for 12,000 psi centerfire rifles are 3 to 5 times that pressure. If you flatten a rifle primer in a 410 shotgun you probably will have more exciting overpressure signs than the primer. As far as sizemaster ve 600jr, Both size the hull, the 600jr uses a simple ring, think lee bullet sizer, vs the collet on sizemaster, grabber,9000 ect. Collet better, yep but I have loaded lots of range pickup 410 on my 600jr.

[PerpetualStudent]

Do not try to judge pressure on shotshells by metallic measures. Remember , the GUN is designed for 12,000 psi centerfire rifles are 3 to 5 times that pressure. If you flatten a rifle primer in a 410 shotgun you probably will have more exciting overpressure signs than the primer. That's what I thought. I know the pressure differential on shotguns (even with .410 being higher pressure than its larger brethren) up to centerfire was very large. I'm loathe to take risks with my own body and even more so with my kids.

[ncmn]

gunarea
I appreciate the information as I am just starting to look at them. I have loaded a few 12 gauge rounds on a Lee Loader, but I do not shoot enough 12 gauge to invest in a Mec. The .410 on the other hand is a different story with the cost of the rounds. I hope that I can pick up a bunch of shells at the range, but if all else fails I will just save what I shoot. Thanks

[Markopolo]

Lots of great ways to size somebody else’s 410 shells. You can always use a 45 cal sizing die as some have stated. I have a simple sizer that came from a prepper site, but even the correct washer size will work. Take a look at what Ghosthawk stated... there are so many trails that lead to the same thing. Just choose one and follow it.

If you want to know more about how to do it, just pm me.

Marko

[trapper9260]

If you want to size your hulls and do everything that you make up. You can just get the sizen die from Mec for the single stage and then make the rest of what you need from there. I have the Lee hand loader for the 410 to do 2 1/2" and also 3" beside I have a Mec single stage press. I found it easy to finish the 3" with the lee hand loader but do everything else on the press. I use all single stage press for all my shotgun I see no need for a progressive press for myself.

[Texas by God]

Lee would be wise to offer .410 loading dies for a standard press. They’d sell a plenty.

[psweigle]

Lee would be wise to offer .410 loading dies for a standard press. They’d sell a plenty.

I know I would buy them! Or even a conversion kit for the lee load-all.

[Tonerboy]

I started with a Lee 20 ga Load All and loved it, I wore out 2 handles and all the linkage parts even though I kept them lubed well. That's how much I used it. When I inherited a .410 shotgun, Lee didn't make a Load All for that gauge so I bit the bullet and bought a MEC. Dang, I didn't know what nice was. That MEC crimps so nice and operates so smooth, its unbelievable. So from my limited experience you can't go wrong with a MEC in .410. I've had many offers to buy my press since, so if you don't like it there is no shortage of buyers. I don't shoot my .410 as much as I would like. But I haven't had to pay the $14 a box they want around here since I have reloaded everything I shoot. Its paid for itself and more over the years. Plus the fun you will have making coyote loads with buckshot and light bird loads and target loads and..... you get the picture. Your not stuck shooting the only load available at your local store. The fun in creating your own loads is worth the price of admission.

[PerpetualStudent]

Got it back from the gunsmith. He says the wiggle in the barrel is enough that he doesn't think it is safe to fire with modern ammunition. And he's not interested in fixing it up, as it will cost more than it's worth. I hate the idea of having a wallhanger I know some people like just seeing a piece of history but I'm more in the "what's the use of a gun that can't shoot?" school. So I've been looking around I found one source where replacing the hinge pin doesn't seem too onerous (https://www.shootingtimes.com/editorial/gunsmithing_st_howpin_200807/100270). If that's all it needs, great. If that doesn't fix it I have an idle thought that it might be possible to turn it into a muzzleloader.

If you guys have any reading suggestions or other suggestions for getting it up and running. Or a "Son you just have to accept its life is over" let me know.

[rking22]

What is the model and manufacturer of the gun you have. You can look at the hinge pin and if very much wear is visible that might be all it takes. 70 years old is not old to me, I shoot many that are older than that. If it was a quality made gun that you want then fix it, have it fixed. With very few exceptions, a single barrel from the 1950s is not viewed to be worth even 100 $ by most people. So two hours of gunsmith time is “more than its worth”. Not!

[gpidaho]

Got it back from the gunsmith. He says the wiggle in the barrel is enough that he doesn't think it is safe to fire with modern ammunition. And he's not interested in fixing it up, as it will cost more than it's worth. I hate the idea of having a wallhanger I know some people like just seeing a piece of history but I'm more in the "what's the use of a gun that can't shoot?" school. So I've been looking around I found one source where replacing the hinge pin doesn't seem too onerous (https://www.shootingtimes.com/editorial/gunsmithing_st_howpin_200807/100270). If that's all it needs, great. If that doesn't fix it I have an idle thought that it might be possible to turn it into a muzzleloader.

If you guys have any reading suggestions or other suggestions for getting it up and running. Or a "Son you just have to accept its life is over" let me know. I bought a gadget from Short Lane that converts a break barrel shotgun to a muzzle loader. Mine is 20ga. and it works just fine. You can do the same thing with just the brass head of a shell reprimed then muzzle load. Gp

[MOA]

I guess it just kinda depends on how much fooling around ya Wana do with the 410. Easiest is to just buy good quality shells, save the empties for reloading later if that happens or at worst you sell the empties here on the S&S forum. Next, would be to just get some 444 brass cases and load with modern powder, but use the old fashioned tech of using fiber wads and hard card for building you wad colum, pour in your shot and cap with another hard card with a big drop of water glass or white elmers glue. Let them dry for a day and go shoot. If you have a press for reloading metallic then use it to de-prime and prime. The rest you can do with a dowel of wood, cardboard and glue. Here are my 9.3x74R brass making my 3" brass 410 shotshells.

https://i.postimg.cc/t4GQZQCs/20190407_121957.jpg (https://postimg.cc/w72bZrNz)

[MOA]

That's what I thought. I know the pressure differential on shotguns (even with .410 being higher pressure than its larger brethren) up to centerfire was very large. I'm loathe to take risks with my own body and even more so with my kids.



In most cases...as long as you stay away from using the modern plastic wads in your brass cases, and stick to a over powder card, a fiber wad (s) and top over shot card sealed with a glue the pressure will not be a issue. The old system before the plastic wad came out was very inefficient pressure wise, it was the advent of the plastic wad that changed the landscape from the old shotgun era to the one of today. Use new brass with old time wads=no issues.

[trapper9260]

MOA what die you use to deprime the cases ?

[MOA]

MOA what die you use to deprime the cases ?

I just use my Lee universal deprimer. It's deep enough to decap even the tall 74mm cases.

[MOA]

Image of when I was checking the fit of the 9.3 into the action of my 410 bolt shotgun action and magazine.


https://i.postimg.cc/fWJvdKcy/2019-03-01_14.09.04.jpg (https://postimg.cc/yWC940rC)

[jmort]

I have a MEC press and sizer
I also have a Lane Loader kit, Primer and Sizer which works just fine
Mine is for 2 1/2 " plastic
They have 3" plastic and Brass Case loaders
The loader kits come in Aluminum and Steel
https://lane371.dotster.com/instructions.html

Have the 12 guage as well

Here is how they work (I find it amusing and Lanes does sell a sizer and a priming too now)


https://youtu.be/gK037aQN6qc

[Petander]

I just handled and fired a sxs 410 for the first time in my life.

A friend was patterning it at the range,a very nice and interesting brazilian gun.

I would load for one if I had one. Very rare caliber around here.

[Markopolo]

i have the same loader from Lane... old and newer version. I had issues going from 410 to 410 without having a sizer, which prompted the newer version a few years back.

i also have one of them 410 muzzloaders adaptor thingys... from back in the 70's.. works fine, but I like using a brass shell better. easier for follow up shots if you can just drop a BP shell in the chamber...

marko

[Outpost75]

FWIW I have had replacement hinge pins fitted to antique English rook rifles which were modified to .410 to circumvent Brit firearms laws. I have also had entirely new handgun-caliber barrels in non+P handgun calibers such as .38 Special, .44-40, .44-40, .45 ACP and .45 Colt fabricated from scratch and fitted to pre-WW1 H&R .44/.410 Garden guns. John Taylor is the guru for doing these. Not a cheap job for you frugal penny pinchers, but well executed, safe, and fine shooting for the rural-agricultural user who knows what he wants and does not want a walking gun which requires wheels and a pony to lug it around.

You can keep your original shotgun barrel intact, fix its ills, get an extra barrel made and fitted using ammo not exceeding 20,000 psi in the popular revolver caliber of your choice, have modern sights fitted which you like, a scope mount also, if you want, all for much less than buying a new lever action cowboy rifle. I have a half-dozen of the blasted things, from .32 S&W Long to .455, most used guns on the farm!

As FYI the "10mm" Bunny Gun pictured is a 10x25mm Rimmed, made by necking down Starline .44 Russian brass. No trimming or neck reaming needed. I have a Ruger Blackhawk and a Vaquero done to use same ammo. With black powder or Trail Boss 252-grain bullet 700 fps revolver, 1000 fps rifle. With case full compressed of IMR4227 1000 fps revolver, 1300 fps. rifle. John has both the chamber reamer and the die reamer and can set you up with the full package.

245503245504245506245505

[Markopolo]

wow outpost... I am gunna have to check into that one...

[PerpetualStudent]

hmmm.

That's a really good idea outpost. And the .410 in question looks almost identical to your bunny gun.

You mentioned "keeping the shotgun barrel intact" I assume that you're not swapping barrels but mean that the original barrel could be part of another gun, correct?

[wildflilghts]

Sorry guys
Don't mean to be arbitrary, but, if the kid/s like shooting the 410, you are gonna be busy. I loaded 410 for two boys and two girls. You can load reasonable shells with the old Lee whack-a-shell. You can load reasonable shells on the old Lee plastic press even faster. A 45acp size die with the decap rod removed will size empties. Re-prime without a press has obvious pitfalls. Roll crimp is tricky on 410 hulls with a single rod roll crimp tool. More expensive two and four rod crimp tools do much better on 410s. Collapsed hulls don't work! Glue crimping works but generally degrades patterns. For her first gun, correct consistent performance will definitely help with young shooter confidence.
Bite the proverbial bullet and get a good loading press. As you have learned from your research, 410 loading tools do not depreciate. A MEC 650 is OK but, get a Sizemaster or a Grabber and after several hundred rounds you will understand the bargin. My 410 usage paid for my presses long ago and many times over. The Sizemaster is more versatile and will accommodate playing with and adjusting 410 shells for specific uses. I make a 2" 410 for little kids to shoot and local squirrel control. Correctly crimping a loaded round will improve patterns and give much more consistent velocities. Both the MEC presses mentioned will load any 410 hull you pick up and make it function well, with a good crimp. This is a once in a lifetime purchase for a Daddy period that you will not be able to put a price tag on. My kid/s still love to shoot the 410s.
Good skill to you.
Roy

Single best advice in this thread-
"This is a once in a lifetime purchase for a Daddy period that you will not be able to put a price tag on." -Gunarea

[MOA]

Single best advice in this thread-
"This is a once in a lifetime purchase for a Daddy period that you will not be able to put a price tag on." -Gunarea

I totally agree. Daddy time can never be re-purchased. When it's gone, it's gone for good.

[Jack Ryan]

My wife's grandfather passed last year and the estate is being settled. I'm inheriting his break action .410 less because I'm interested in the caliber and more because he told me it was the gun he first used. So I want it to be the first gun my daughters use. That's a piece of family history you can't buy.

On the one hand I don't know how much it will be used. On the other hand since it's not going to be sold having the means to reload it seems a reasonable thing. The cost of a press seems rather high. I've been looking into the older posts and see that some people use brass shells or fireform brass into a .410 shell the only thing that makes me leery there is that the brass shells are only published with BP loads. Smokeless you're in unpublished territory and this gun is at least 70 years old.

I'm curious what direction you guys would be inclined. Last time I cheaped out on reloading I regretted it and did not wind up saving any money. But I can't quite bring myself to look at a 150-250 press for a gun I won't be using all the time. I know the .410 lee loaders command a premium but right now that seems the logical place to go. Opinions?

I bought a MEC when I got my father's 410. Then I got my uncle's 410. I reload like crazy for those and I have an electric trap for shoots here at my house. Those guns are all any one want's to shoot any more and they would never get used if I had to pay the stupid crazy prices they want for shells at Walmart.

I can't recommend the MEC and reloading 410s highly enough. You'll never be sorry.

[Outpost75]

hmmm.

That's a really good idea outpost. And the .410 in question looks almost identical to your bunny gun.

You mentioned "keeping the shotgun barrel intact" I assume that you're not swapping barrels but mean that the original barrel could be part of another gun, correct?

I can swap either the original .44 shot or .410 barrels onto either receiver. When travelling I take the handgun-caliber barrel which matches the revolver I'm toting, plus a shotgun barrel. That gives me the option of a 26" full choke .44 shot using the 5 in 1 Blank brass and 1/3 oz. of shot in its original 2-inch chamber, or an 18" .410 cylinder bore in which John lengthen its original 2-1/2" chamber to take modern 3-inch shells.