Remington Model 17 20 ga.

[swamp]

I need some help. I can't figure out how to separate the bolt carrier from the slide rod. The bolt and carrier are the only things left in the receiver.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.
swamp

[Texas by God]

My wife has one of those in the safe. I'll drag it out tonight and look at it. It is similar but different to the Ithaca 37.

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[Hamish]

https://www.google.com/search?q=remington+model+17+disassembly&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari

[Markopolo]

Unfortunately, mr Hamish, not one of those videos shows the disassembly of the 17... I watched every one and went every place I know of looking for a manual.. Steve’s pages has a manual, but I do t have a login for it apparently...

[Drm50]

I haven't done it for years but I think there is one position of bolt , about 1/2 way foreward that allows you to lift bolt up from the rear and pivot it out of action and will disconnect from slide bar.

If no video on 17, look at one for m10 or m19 they are similar.

[rking22]

Flip it upside down and look at the bottom of the bolt. There is a pin visible running crosswise. With the reciever to your right, take a small screwdriver and place the blade on the far side of the raised ring in the middle of the pin. Now pull it toward you about an eight of an inch. Bolt should slide out. That pin is spring loaded and engages a hole in the op rod. Hope I remembered the direction to pull, if it don’t move the way I said go the other. Should take very little pressure, spring force is similar to the slide release lever. If it dosen’t Move easily, kroil is your friend.
Wonderful guns, I love them and have 3, seems I buy every one I touch! Please post pictures, never enough gun porn!

[swamp]

Flip it upside down and look at the bottom of the bolt. There is a pin visible running crosswise. With the reciever to your right, take a small screwdriver and place the blade on the far side of the raised ring in the middle of the pin. Now pull it toward you about an eight of an inch. Bolt should slide out. That pin is spring loaded and engages a hole in the op rod. Hope I remembered the direction to pull, if it don’t move the way I said go the other. Should take very little pressure, spring force is similar to the slide release lever. If it dosen’t Move easily, kroil is your friend.
Wonderful guns, I love them and have 3, seems I buy every one I touch! Please post pictures, never enough gun porn!

Thanks, that did it. I kept looking at that but couldn't figure out what it did. Did not want to risk messing with it. Knew someone here would have one of these neat little guns. This is my second. A little bubbaed but in good shape.

Thanks again,
swamp

[Texas by God]

I agree. One of the best pump guns ever and the Genisis of the Ithaca 37. JMB's best pump shotgun- yes, that includes the 1897!

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[rking22]

Glad that worked, don't trust my memory much anymore. All 3 of mine had the stock shortened or bubbed in some way, and all have needed a bit of work. Seems they were working guns and frequently shortened for a youngster of wife. That kinda adds to the apeal for me, along with the wonderful feel and light weight. Please post some pictures when you get it sorted out. Another interesting tidbit. Even though the M37 was coppied from the M17, the M17 has a disconector, the M37 did not originally include, go figure.

[swamp]

Here are a couple of pics. I faced the muzzle so it is square and smoothed down where his ss # was engraved. Lost a little finish but better than the sharp edges. Going to fit a recoil pad to gain a little LOP. Overall I really like these guns. Cost was $150 out the door.

243072243073

[rking22]

Looks like checkered wood, and decent shape. Barrel was shortened,I assume. You will enjoy that little 20. Thanks for the pictures.Oh, and 150$ was a good buy!

[swamp]

The fore end had something mounted to it. Screw holes and looks like plastic wood. After I cleaned the bore it is beautiful. Mirror bright. At the price I could not resist.

[richhodg66]

Flip it upside down and look at the bottom of the bolt. There is a pin visible running crosswise. With the reciever to your right, take a small screwdriver and place the blade on the far side of the raised ring in the middle of the pin. Now pull it toward you about an eight of an inch. Bolt should slide out. That pin is spring loaded and engages a hole in the op rod. Hope I remembered the direction to pull, if it don’t move the way I said go the other. Should take very little pressure, spring force is similar to the slide release lever. If it dosen’t Move easily, kroil is your friend.
Wonderful guns, I love them and have 3, seems I buy every one I touch! Please post pictures, never enough gun porn!

I hit that point on disassembling Ithaca 37s a few times, it's not real intuitive like most parts of disassembly are on a 37.

I thought the Remingtons were exactly the same design as the 37. How did they differ?

[rking22]

I am not sure of any differences to amount to much, except the disconnect or and the Remington seems more trim in the receiver. All 3 of my 17s have a disconnector to prevent slam firing, neither of my 2 37s have it and will slam fire. That was “updated” sometime in the 70s. Also no m17 guns have the interchangeable barrels of the later37s. I just accumulate and shoot them, no expert here.

[Texas by God]

When younger, I could point the gun upside down over my shoulder, eject the hull straight up and hit it with the next shot with this one or an Ithaca. Slam firing an Ithaca will break an extractor. Don't ask how I know....

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[rking22]

I was shooting skeet with my M37 16ga couple years ago. Had not shot a 37 in a good while, on the sta 1 pair I broke the first and slam fired moving to pick up the incomer, sounded like full auto. Guys shooting with me were astonished, thought it was super cool. I pointed out that I was now taking my option on 1, and asked them how long since they saw me miss a low1. That is exactly what slam firing is good for, missing and breaking parts! Interestingly, I have never had a slam fire with a Model 12, must be something about the grip and trigger relationship. Has happened to me 3 times, over the decades, with 37s, never hit with the 2nd either!
I looked at another 17 today, rough shape, metal and wood. Has a polychoke plain barrel, they are asking 200$, I considered offering 100, it’s a first year gun, serial 90xx. Needs new wood and rust bluing, someone files a buggered screw using the reciever for a jig! Too much work.

[swamp]

Well, I got tired of the bare wood of the butt, so put something on it. Could not find a pad local and did not want to spend money on something fancy. Had some Corian laying around, so used it. Adds a little to the LOP and protects the butt. Probably end up refinishing the butt stock.

243503

[rking22]

Be sure and break the corners to a radius, that Corian is hard stuff, and slickery too! Your collar bone will thank you��

[swamp]

Already done. Long time back made counters of it. Not real practical for butt pad, but did it anyway.

swamp

[rking22]

I think they do some single action grips out of it. I did out counter tops with it back 30 years ago. Put it in the barn when wifey updated to granite. Gotta be good for something, I am going to make a work board for the sink, when I get roun to it,,,

[swamp]

I made a set of grips for my Ruger SBH. Went back to the Pachmayers.

The corian looked real good, but way too slick.
swamp

[rking22]

I have forgotten, but can you use high speed steel tooling on corian or carbide required?

[swamp]

Carbide is best. Steel dulls faster, but can be used. Can be polished to a very high shine.
swamp

[rking22]

Thanks, may get that filler cut out soon.