Best Anti-Corrosive Spray for Metal

[Craig49]

I'm looking for products to use to preserve metal when storing guns. Needs to inhibit rust.

[Ickisrulz]

There have been tests done:

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

I use Eezox.

[Outpost75]

Use a marine-grade protectant. This stuff is the absolute best for duck guns exposed to salt spray in open boats.

https://www.qmaxxproducts.com/product/salt/

Works fine on Mossberg pump, M9 pistols and M240 GPMG.

[dangitgriff]

CorrosionX is what I use.

[Rcmaveric]

I use Boe sheild. Anything that is a water displacer and corrosion inhibitor will work great. VCI paper and moisture pack inside a sealed container will work wonders illuminate corrosion damage.

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[EDG]

Never ask for opinions. Always ask for comparative test results.

Take a look at these results. Poor products are easy to eliminate.

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

[Oily]

One product that is used in the oilfield is Micro Mist or Micromist can't remember the way it was spelled. The supply stores that sold it would spray a 2' section of raw steel pipe outside on their pipe rack and leave it alone. I have seen treated pipe after 1 year that had no rust and the untreated portion was totally rust covered. Don't know how it would work on firearms as it was pretty thick when applied to surfaces almost kinda bubbly from the propellant in the spray can. The outside in the weather demonstration was really impressive. Never paid attention to whether it attracted dust, dirt or any other pollutants. Excellent lubricating properties as that was what we used it for and its ability to stay on the surface of treated area outside in the elements.

[EDG]

One observation is just an anectdote. It is not a comparison test of multiple products tested under the exact same conditions.

[Petrol & Powder]

242442

I'm old school and a bit set in my ways.

For long term storage of ferrous metals I still trust RIG. (far right in picture)

The goal is to prevent water & oxygen from reaching the surface of the metal. Any oil or grease will prevent water and oxygen from reaching the surface of the metal but the key is some will continue to do that over longer periods of time.

[Tom W.]

Check out the LPS line of lubes. We used them extensively when I worked at the sawmill. Great stuff!

[dangitgriff]

Never ask for opinions. Always ask for comparative test results.

Take a look at these results. Poor products are easy to eliminate.

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

I read the article days ago but forgot to thank you for posting the link.
Thanks, very informative. [emoji106]

[Rick Hodges]

I have been using Eezox for about 10 years in humid Michigan. It isn't a spray but it hasn't let me down. I suspect that there are a number of products that work well. I used to use Rig, but would experience rust unless I was careful to clean and reapply regularly. Rig is a pain to clean and not as easy to get into seams and tight places.

[Petrol & Powder]

To each his own but there's nothing magical about rust prevention.

Something needs to prevent water and oxygen from reaching the surface of the metal. It ain't Rocket Science. Lots of things will accomplish that goal, some hold up better than others over time.

Because there's level of trepidation that the product will not work over a long period of time AND a certain level of trust needed from the consumer; the market of rust prevention products is ripe for high dollar products. I'm not saying expensive products are bad but I am saying that sometimes expensive products are just expensive and not necessarily better because they are expensive.

I know of a carbon steel 1911 pistol that was stored in summer house on the Connecticut shore for over 20 years. That house was unoccupied and un-heated during the winter. The gun had been cleaned, lightly coated in grease and wrapped in an oily rag. It was fine despite the huge fluctuations in temperatures, high humidity and proximity to the ocean. I'm not recommending that course of action but I do think sometimes we over-think this stuff.

Clean it, coat it with something that will prevent water & oxygen from reaching the surface (preferably something that will not evaporate over time or gum up) and keep it dry - chances are ....... it will be fine.

[jmort]

In testing, the only sprays that do well are
WD 40 Specialist
Hornady Dri Lube
Followed by Frog Lube which is not a spray
As noted, put on most any lube and store the gun and you should be good, spray or not

[gwpercle]

The extensive testing champ was WD-40 Specialist Long - Term Corrosion Inhibitor .

WD-40 makes a bunch of " Specialist" products...but the stuff you want is the Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor !
Not realizing that I grabbed the first can that had Specialist on it...got home and it was penetrating oil... didn't want that. Read the labels carefully...Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor is the stuff you want .
Gary

[Markopolo]

I use Balistol in a spray bottle on everything.. and I also make a fixin wax from part beeswax and part balistol for stuf going into long term storage. I live in that marine environment and my guns are exposed to saltwater real regular.

Marko

[tangolima]

Hang an aluminum tag to the steel part of the action as a sacrificial anode. It is a electrochemical trick.

-TL

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[porthos]

Boshield T-9

[Texas by God]

On our fertilizer truck we painted any gun carried in it and shot said gun once a week to blow any corrosion out of the bore. I had a 18” 7.7 Jap 99 for deer season, a Nylon 66 for the rest of the time. NPK and the fumes from them are quite corrosive. On nice guns I use RIG grease or auto wax.

[jonp]

On our fertilizer truck we painted any gun carried in it and shot said gun once a week to blow any corrosion out of the bore. I had a 18” 7.7 Jap 99 for deer season, a Nylon 66 for the rest of the time. NPK and the fumes from them are quite corrosive. On nice guns I use RIG grease or auto wax.

Wondered if someone would mention plain old wax. Where I am now it's pretty darn humid and hot. I oil my guns and pull them out every 6 months or so. Doesn't seem to matter which oil I use. Ballistol, Rem Oil, etc but for long term storage I usually use 0-20w Full Synthetic Motor Oil.

[Silvercreek Farmer]

Johnsons Paste Wax seems to be working well for me.

[Petrol & Powder]

It ain't rocket science folks, you can spend a LOT of money or a little bit of money and get the same results.

Something as inexpensive as Cosmoline, wheel bearing grease or RIG will give the same result as something that costs 10x as much.

Clean the item, make sure it's dry and apply the appropriate substance to protect it. I swear to you it will turn out the same in 10 years with Cosmoline as it will with something that cost 20 times as much.

If you can prevent water & oxygen from reaching the surface it will be fine. The only magic involved is the ability to separate you from your money.

Do as you see fit and what your wallet can tolerate.

[David2011]

While it's not a coating I have a Goldenrod GunSaver Dehumidifier in my safe. It's a low level heater that keeps the safe a few degrees warmer than the surrounding air. It lowers the humidity and prevents condensation.

[Petrol & Powder]

I use the same device. A little heat at the bottom of the safe prevents condensation.

[Naphtali]

I'm looking for products to use to preserve metal when storing guns. Needs to inhibit rust.For metal parts that do not and will not reciprocate (for example, screw affixing butt stock to receiver on Winchester Model 97 shotgun) I use LPS-3, a wax like marine preservative. If you are within driving distance of Missoula County, Montana, stop by to have a test part shpritzed.

Hope this helps.

[RU shooter]

If it's a common hard use "working" gun a good coating of enamel spray paint should hold up for quite a while . For just preservation regular old bearing grease works well enough , cheap and easy to find .

[pastera]

For metal parts that do not and will not reciprocate (for example, screw affixing butt stock to receiver on Winchester Model 97 shotgun) I use LPS-3, a wax like marine preservative. If you are within driving distance of Missoula County, Montana, stop by to have a test part shpritzed.

Hope this helps.

Second on the LPS products - great stuff, just get the one for the task (my go to is LPS 2)
LPS 3:
https://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/612
LPS 2:
https://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/561
LPS 1:
https://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/560

[samari46]

I use the LPS products as well. Usually on my lathe in the garage here in sunny and humid Louisiana. So far so good. Even have an old surface plate I bought over 40 years ago. Probably about 14"x 18" that I bought from a place that bought out old machine shops. Pretty rusty when I got it, cleaned all the rust and no pitting. Use the LPS #3 which sprays on wet and drys to form a barrier much like that green stuff that they dip reamers in, sort of a waxy coating. Frank

[Geezer in NH]

Another user of RIG here.

[Hossfly]

LPS-3 works very well looks ugly though.

[robg]

Acf 50 works well on motorbikes used in winter on salted roads .it's an aircraft grade anti corrosion spray.

[David2011]

ACF 50 is an amazing product. After the big Mississippi flood in 1993 or so many airplanes had been flooded. Mechanics hosed the insides of the planes with ACF 50. A side benefit was that the radios not only still worked but they were quieter (static and popping) than when new. Sprayed inside an airplane it virtually eliminates corrosion.

[Naphtali]

You have several worthwhile suggestions and recommendations for what long-term storage protectant to use on your firearms. . . . How do you get the stuff off to use the gun? LPS-3 is a superb marine preservative, a heavy waxy substance guaranteed to cause your gun to malfuction when applied to reciprocating parts.

Kroil, a solvent with a good reputation has a real problem with LPS-3. And LPS-3 is more or less designed to withstand things like dish detergents and Simple Green.

[tangolima]

I have been doing this for a while. I cut a small strip of zinc sheet metal (available from Amazon) and attach it to the steel part of the gun. It is the sacrificial anode. An electrochemical trick to reduce corrosion.

-TL

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[Nobade]

Since it hasn't been mentioned, I like Fluid Film. Hard to beat sheep grease! And it's fairly cheap.

[nicholst55]

Wondered if someone would mention plain old wax. Where I am now it's pretty darn humid and hot. I oil my guns and pull them out every 6 months or so. Doesn't seem to matter which oil I use. Ballistol, Rem Oil, etc but for long term storage I usually use 0-20w Full Synthetic Motor Oil.

Motor oil actually contains no rust inhibitors; great for lubrication - not so much for rust prevention.

[nicholst55]

It ain't rocket science folks, you can spend a LOT of money or a little bit of money and get the same results.

Something as inexpensive as Cosmoline, wheel bearing grease or RIG will give the same result as something that costs 10x as much.

Clean the item, make sure it's dry and apply the appropriate substance to protect it. I swear to you it will turn out the same in 10 years with Cosmoline as it will with something that cost 20 times as much.

If you can prevent water & oxygen from reaching the surface it will be fine. The only magic involved is the ability to separate you from your money.

Do as you see fit and what your wallet can tolerate.

I totally agree. The part that most people miss in cleaning/wiping off the gun first. I have had guns rust under RIG because I failed to do that!

[Omega]

This is a well thought out test (I like his channel) of CLP and other lubes. While none performed every test well, it gives you an indication on what to use for your particular use, or which will do what you need overall.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fibRewlndLg

[jonp]

The extensive testing champ was WD-40 Specialist Long - Term Corrosion Inhibitor .

WD-40 makes a bunch of " Specialist" products...but the stuff you want is the Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor !
Not realizing that I grabbed the first can that had Specialist on it...got home and it was penetrating oil... didn't want that. Read the labels carefully...Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor is the stuff you want .
Gary

That WD penetrating oil is top notch

[BLAHUT]

automatic Transmation fluid got this from an old defense plant worker navy ship gun builder

[Handloader109]

Boe shield is good. Wd40, never

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[earlmck]

Wow! That was quite a test. Thanks for the link Ickisrulz.

[3584ELK]

I used Kroil for years, but have switched to Rem Oil and Birchwood Casey Barricade. I will wipe down exposed metal and store in the safe. My safes contain dehumidifiers and a large rag saturated with one of the above. I live in WA state near the coast, havent had a rust problem in 8 years. Knock on wood...

[Marcduper]

I have been using A 50/50 mixture of ATF and odorless paint thinner. Do not recall where this came from, but it is truly amazing. With a little time this has cleared up some rust stars from an old 870 that I have.

Marc

[David2011]

Since this thread started I’ve accumulated several older cast iron woodworking tools. All came to me with a little to a lot of rust on them. After cleaning each was treated with Boeshield T-9, allowed to soak in for a minimum of 24 hours, wiped clean and allowed to dry. Sliding surfaces like saw tops were then given a coat of Johnson’s Paste Wax but I’m not sure how effective the JPW is for corrosion protection compared to the T-9. Nothing has rusted after said treatment.

Something else that I believe helps is slowing down temperature changes. If metal gets cold and then the temperature and humidity come up, condensation will occur. The slower the temperature change, the less likely condensation will form. I may be wrong here but it seems to work in my situation and I live on the Texas Gulf Coast only 6 miles from salt water.

[fastdadio]

I've been using this stuff in the boiler room for the past two years. It's working very well for us.
https://www.crcindustries.com/products/sp-400-8482-corrosion-inhibitor-10-wt-oz.html
Here's another formula;
https://www.crcindustries.com/products/heavy-duty-corrosion-inhibitor-10-wt-oz.html
https://www.crcindustries.com/products/corrosion-inhibitors.html

[jsizemore]

While in the Navy, I pulled parts out of ship's stores to repair stuff in the engine room that had been there for years. The part would be in a cardboard box with all info on the outside of the box. Parts inside were wrapped in VCI paper. Nary a spot of corrosion.

[jonp]

Motor oil actually contains no rust inhibitors; great for lubrication - not so much for rust prevention.

All i look for is a barrier between air and metal. Syn motor oil for stuff sitting static under cover works as well as anything.

For stuff like saw blades sitting in a garage or tools i switched to WD Anti Corrosion
Just checked in at camp. Tools like hammers, pliers etc sprayed and hung in a shed subjected to humidity and +80 to -30 over a year look as good as new

[elmacgyver0]

I don't have any problem with rust as long as I keep my dehumidifier emptied.

[Noah Zark]

I'm looking for products to use to preserve metal when storing guns. Needs to inhibit rust.

For that specific purpose I have used Corrosion-X for 20+ years. My first experience sold me; I had an HS2000, the Croatian predecessor to the Springfield XD9 that had a phosphated slide. They called it "Bruniral" and made it out to be some kind of wonderfinish. It wasn't.
It was plain old phosphate, but I didn't oil it at first. I got busy at work and didn't handle the HS2000 for months, and when I did, light rusty fingerprints were on the slide where I had grasped it to chamber a round when I had it out shooting shortly after purchase.
I cleaned off the powder thin rust with an oily cloth, but they kept returning. After learning about Corrosion-X from a customer, I ordered a 16 oz spray bottle and gave the XS2000's slide a thorough, liberal wipedown. The phos soaked up the Corrosion-X just like unoiled phos will do, and the recurring rusty fingerprints, always in the same spots, NEVER returned. Since then, Corrosion-X has never failed to perform for me. The owner if the company is a S&W collector; we met on another forum, and told me don't waste my money buying his specific product Corrosion-X for Guns; he said it was the same product as Corrosion-X but with a viscosity modifier and in a small bottle. He said to buy the large spray bottle of either Corrosion-X, or Corrosion-X Aviation, an even higher viscosity version. The latter is what I bought, and there's still ~ one inch in the bottle. Pleasant odor, too, sassafras like Simple Green.
It works by forming a molecules-thick layer if an oxygen blocking compound on the metsl surface, just like VCI (vapor corrosion inhibiting) paper or those blue, pink, green, or yellow treated polyethylene VCI bags. One of the best gun care products I've purchased.

Someone also mentioned WD40 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor, and it is a much higher viscosity product like thin grease, and is phenomenal for preventing and even stopping rust. I applied it to the joint between the frame and skid plate on my LJ Wrangler after noticing the start of orange rust, common on TJ/LJ Wranglers, and it positively STOPPED the rusting. Six years on, I dropped the skid plate to replace the cat-back exhaust and there was NO rust in the joint surfaces of the skid plate or the underside of the frame. I've since bought a dozen cans and sprayed the inside of the body panels in the usual spots that rust on a TJ/LJ, and checked them this spring; NO rust. I sprayed those areas again, anyway; you can't buy a new LJ.

Noah

[BLAHUT]

An old navy big gun builder told me they used automitic transmition fluid

[geslayton]

I have been using A 50/50 mixture of ATF and odorless paint thinner. Do not recall where this came from, but it is truly amazing. With a little time this has cleared up some rust stars from an old 870 that I have.

Marc

Nothing to do with this topic, but, your inbox is full. I tried to respond to your message and can’t. Went to see your activity and this was your most recent comment.


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[JSnover]

An old navy big gun builder told me they used automitic transmition fluid

I stored a couple of presses in a drafty metal shed for two years in Southeastern PA; cleaned them, wiped them down with ATF, draped an oily towel over them. No rust. Even the chipmunks didn't get into them.

[JSnover]

I have been using A 50/50 mixture of ATF and odorless paint thinner. Do not recall where this came from, but it is truly amazing. With a little time this has cleared up some rust stars from an old 870 that I have.

Marc

50/50 acetone/ATF is a home-brew 'liquid wrench' recipe and it really does work. Outperforms most of the commercial products.

[jonp]

50/50 acetone/ATF is a home-brew 'liquid wrench' recipe and it really does work. Outperforms most of the commercial products.

Drained my transmission to replace the torque converter and I have several quarts of fluid saved. Probably make penetrating oil till the cows come home.

WD Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor is my go to after trying it out for a couple of years. Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil store bought.

[David2011]

Just don’t try to mix synthetic ATF with acetone like I did. They didn’t mix. Got some older Ford style and it mixed perfectly with the acetone.

[cwlongshot]

There have been tests done:

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

I use Eezox.
Eezox here too. Decades of no rust!!

[M-Tecs]

Eezox here too. Decades of no rust!!

Same for me.

[gwpercle]

Just don’t try to mix synthetic ATF with acetone like I did. They didn’t mix. Got some older Ford style and it mixed perfectly with the acetone.

:goodpost:
Excellant Advice and David is Right On ...
When mixing any of Ed's Red Gun Cleaner , Gun Oil or CLP recipes ...
Don't use Synthetic ATF ... only conventional Dexron GM Spec ... I use the least expensive Wally Mart brand of ATF ( non-synthetic)
The 50-50 Acetone / ATF is a great penetrating oil and rust soaking agent .
Gary

[BLAHUT]

Automatic Transmation fluid ( type F has a cleaner in it ) or syntenic motor oil
Navy has used the Transmation fluid for protection of salt water