Dremel type tools and how I have used them

[Traffer]

There may be people out there who would like to know how to use Dremel tools on steel (and carbide) but wouldn't know where to begin. This is a video explaining a little of what I have learned about these tools and how I have used them. These are very inexpensive and versatile little tools. I use them mostly to shape and sharpen cutting tools.

https://youtu.be/boVmxymLvmg
Sorry about the noise blocking out what I was explaining. Basically I was saying that I am careful not to touch the wheel against the web of the drill bit. That can be thinned later. Also when sharpening the straight edge of a normal drill bit I imagine a line intersecting the middle of the wheel through the arbor and use that line as a reference for the final edge to be cut. Otherwise the angle will not be consistent.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Over the years I've worn out several Dremels, and used them for all sorts of gunsmiting chores. I think the cut-off wheels proved especially useful, as did the various small Craytex polishing points and wheels for small, hard to reach areas in preparation for rebluing.

[Hickok]

Truly a handyman's secret weapon, along with vice-grips, duct-tape, and JB Weld.

BUT, in the hands of Bubba.....a weapon of mass destruction!!!:bigsmyl2:

[RED BEAR]

Wouldn't know what to do without mine.

[RogerDat]

Worth noting that Dremel's drive shaft has a small plastic tube with inside splined that connects the motor to the shaft. That tube I guess provides give in the drive train. However with age the plastic goes from soft and pliable to hard and the splines strip out.

Symptom is motor runs and shaft may still spin but under cutting or grinding load the shaft stops or turns slowly while the motor still runs fast. Plenty of good YouTube videos on making the easy replacement.

Tube is the most common replacement part shipped by Dremel so if yours does this or you find one at a garage sale or flea market with those symptoms the part to fix it is cheap and might make buying the used one a deal. I replaced it in a Dremel that is at least 25 years old recently. I couldn't get new brushes for one that old but until those I replaced a good while back fail it will work fine. I have been using it for that entire time and yes it has pulled my chestnuts out of a fire more than once.

Hardened metal that will dull or destroy a hacksaw blade is no match for the cut off wheel. However you have much to cut and room a 4 inch. angle grinder with cut off is faster and easier. For bulk "project" building there is another tool that rocks.

[Kenstone]

I have found that the shank of a cheap Q-Tip will fit into a Dremel type tool collet.
The Q-Tips with the paper wound shafts, not the plastic tube, and I use them for light/final polishing in small areas.
I charge the Q-Tip with Nu Finish car polish as the abrasive, while spinning inside a paper grocery bag to catch the spray.

I also use wooden shish cabob skewers, they fit into the collets too, also for polishing or as a mandrel for spinning small stuff that has a hole thru it.
Once mounted the skewer can be spun and filed to any size/dia. needed.
I spin small washers this way to file the OD, etc.
:mrgreen:

[EDG]

Most crankshaft grinding shops will not do a very good job of deburring the oil holes in the main and rod bearing journals. I like to use a Cratex bob on a Dremel arbor to deburr the crank shaft oil holes.

[Winger Ed.]

Truly a handyman's secret weapon, along with vice-grips, duct-tape, and JB Weld. :

Don't forget a couple of different Cresent wrenches.

They'll save you from buying metric tools.

[country gent]

While the same basic tool I have used a pencil grinder for years in the shop. My arrow and dotco pencil grinders are 80,000 rpm the high speed dotco is 100,000. the added rpms really make a difference in how it cuts and finishes. I have a flex shaft dremil that's 20,000 rpms that does okay and a industrial flex shaft that's 30,000.
I have a 1/4" die grinder that's set up for ID grinding in the lathe. It does okay a little more power would be nice, but it allows me to ring and grind chucks and some other small work

[DougGuy]

I use a dremel a lot doing barrels and cylinders. Dremel + Cratex rubber abrasives are excellent for polishing feed ramps in auto loader barrels, and I use the same setup to deburr and "melt" cylinder chamfers for easier loading.

I had one of the high torque high rpm air driven Cratex rotary tools which fit right in the 5/8" collet that holds a boring bar on a toolpost, I had an awesome little high precision very accurate tool post grinder for my lathe until it gave it up. These things are $600+ bucks, and the shaft of the motor has a U shaped coupler just pressed on the hardened shaft, once it spins, you can toss the whole tool. Grrrrrrrrr.......

[BudRow]

A Roto-zip with the proper collet is a Dremel on steroids

[Traffer]

Truly a handyman's secret weapon, along with vice-grips, duct-tape, and JB Weld.

BUT, in the hands of Bubba.....a weapon of mass destruction!!!:bigsmyl2:

Very sagacious words. And just call me bubba.
[smilie=1:

[Petrol & Powder]

A Dremel tool has saved me on more than one occasion.

The heavy duty cut off wheels last about 10x longer than the standard ones.
If you're careful you can cut the compressed rings off of Pex plumbing fittings and save the plastic pipe (important when you're replacing a cracked fitting on Christmas morning and you don't have another section of pipe on hand ! )

Yes, a Q-tip will fit in the collet and so will some cotter pins with a piece of 600 grit sandpaper sandwiched in the middle !

The Dremel is not a precision instrument but it sure is a handy one.

Totally agree with Hickok in post #3 :D

[onelight]

Yes, a Q-tip will fit in the collet and so will some cotter pins with a piece of 600 grit sandpaper sandwiched in the middle !

The Dremel is not a precision instrument but it sure is a handy one.

Totally agree with Hickok in post #3 :D
The cotter pin idea I gotta remember , thanks

[country gent]

In trained hands and with proper back up tools ( straight edge surface plate measuring tools ect) the dremil tool dies grinders can be very accurate. Mounted in a machine ( lathe shaper) they can do work that's really surprising. I used a 1/4" die grinder mounted in tool post to ring and grind 3 and 6 jaw chucks. It wasn't fast but they were accurate when done. Finish was very good when done.
Several things to remember with these tools is to buy accessories rated for the machines top speed. We got some rawhides and felt bobs 3/8" dia on aluminum shafts that bent when turned up to speed. Brushes need to be ran slower to maintain the flex in the bristles when polishing. Always start a new mounted point or accessory under the bench top and dress it true under the bench top. The bench top becomes a guard or shield if the point lets go, protecting you from the bits pieces. Always dress a newly mounted tool before use to true and balance it. This makes then cut and run much better, and they are easier to control with out the vibrations. Dress / clean the stones as needed when loaded they just burn and don't cut well. Have a selection on hand white green pink brown cratex felt bobs rawhides and various brushes to do what is needed. Burrs can be very usefull at times and will remove metal faster and cooler. ALWAYS wear safety glasses A face shield is better. Those small chips are painful on the skin and really hard on the eyes. The sparks from them are hard on glasses. Be safe when running these tools

[skeettx]

Dremel tool, one of man's best friends !!

[Baltimoreed]

241847241848
I used my dremel/ flexible extension with the bowtie style cut off wheels to cut the bowie blade curve into my junky 1917 bolo blade and make the diagonally cut through the handle of the bowie and a krag bayonet to build my version of a krag-bowie. Was leery about grinding the radius on it but the dremel cut right through without the heat. Been using dremel bits on my drill press for years.

[GregLaROCHE]

I’ve been getting ready to buy my first one. There are so many different brands, types and kits out there, it’s hard to know where to start and with which tools. How about shank size?

Any advice on this will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[samari46]

Lowe's usually has a decent selection of Dremels and just about any accessory you can think of. Can buy just a small kit and go from there. And I have to warn you that if you go down the accessory road do not buy just one. Stinks when your favorite polishing bob or grinding wheel just won't do it anymore and off you go to get some more. I have a tupper ware container full of wire brushes, stones,cutoff wheels and so on. And see if they have spare wrenches for the collet chuck. Don't ask why I said that as been there done that. Frank

[RED BEAR]

I am getting some good ideas. I really like mine for making handgun grips. When i first started in machine shop many years ago used industrial flex shaft grinder to final shape parts that couldn't be machined had a standard that had to match shape. Showed a knack for it so got to do it for next five years. You'd be surprised just how close you can get with one.

[Traffer]

I’ve been getting ready to buy my first one. There are so many different brands, types and kits out there, it’s hard to know where to start and with which tools. How about shank size?

Any advice on this will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

You probably don't want to use cheap stuff like me but if you do... In the price range of $30 to $40 I have not found anything better than a Black & Decker RTX. You can generally find them for about $35. As far as the attachments, bits etc., Be prepared to spend 20X the amount of money OR MORE if you buy stuff in stores. Like I stated in the video, I get the diamond wheels for about 20 cents per. Things like a pack of resin cut off wheels ...Dremel Brand- $8 to $10, Same thing but not branded on eBay from China $1.75. And there are lots of types of burrs and such that are not available except online. But like most folks here you probably have a few hundred to spend on this stuff. If so ignore everything I have written.

[Traffer]

I bought a rotozip thinking the same thing...it sits. Too bulky and can't turn down the speed enough.

[Baltimoreed]

Definitely get the cable extension. It gives you complete control of the tool.

[oldred]

One thing I always do when using any stone or craytex wheel is to true them with a dressing stone before using them, not only do they not try to bounce around and will cut faster but they actually last longer despite the fact some of the tool material gets removed during the dressing process. An out-of-round or off center mounted spinning wheel that is bouncing, even very slightly, is not going to be in contact with the work for the entire revolution thus it will cut slower and since it is not cutting evenly all the way around it gets even more lop-sided with use and literately beats itself to death. Another benefit is a much better finish and better accuracy in tight spots, I know it's common to do this and most folks probably already do it but a lot of others just chuck up a wheel and have at it!

[rbuck351]

I don't have a Dremel but I do have a Foredom which is a hopped up Dremel. It has a small motor (about 1/8 hp)with a flex shaft then a pop off round tool head with a built in drill chuck. It uses tools with shafts up to about 3/16" and uses a variable foot feed for speeds from 0 to 14,000 rpm. I built a holder to use it on my 7x14 mini lathe as a tool post grinder . I have 3 tool heads for it so I can switch heads when it gets hot from extended use or if I'm switching back and forth with different grinding tools just switch tool head with a different bit in it. It's a lot more expensive than a Dremel but I got it used at a pawn shop about 30 years ago for $35. Very handy tool.

[country gent]

Dressing the stones, rawhides felt bobs and even the nylon brushes (lightly) does several things to improve the tools. It trues them making them run true to the spindle. It helps to balance them removing shake and vibration for a smoother more controllable cut. Dressing breaks down the bonding agent between the abrasive opening the pores and sharpening the dulled abrasives. It only takes enough to true the stones and sharpen them, a light dressing every so often in use helps a lot.
Another thing to remember is if the stone is loading up the bond / abrasive is to hard and not breaking down Hence the point isn't staying sharp. If the stone is breaking down to fast then the bond / abrasive is to soft while its staying sharp and clean its excessive wear is the problem. You will see the difference when dressing them.
A small dressing stick is a big help in doing good work with these tools.

[samari46]

And if you use the burrs on wood stocks,try it out on a scrap of wood the same type as the stock. Start at less than full speed or even less to get a feel as to how it cuts. Have a variable speed one and if at full speed it is very to loose control and really screws up the wood. Think there is a kinda sweet rpm spot with the burrs and if too fast or too heavy a cut easy to actually burn one up. When I did a bunch of tool bits for my 6" lathe the standard length was too long.
cut in half roughed the cutting angles. Then I got smart and ground the both ends then cut in half. Was in Lowes today and checked the selection and they seem to have a good variety. Only have the Lowe's in town. No Home Depot. Still ticked off about Lowe's taking on Sears/Craftsman as Kobalt used to be their house brand. Think Kobalt is/are better tools. Frank

[Drm50]

I have several Dremils, a couple Rotozips and a small Bosch router. I ruin Dremils all the time by using them on jobs that put to much stress on side play. I had a rechargable that was handy for light polishing but battery crapped out and I pitched it. I lucked into a small high speed Die Grinder at a yard sale. It is twice as big as a Dremil but shaped so you can one hand it. It has a weird 3/16" keyed chuck. The problem with it is buying tools for it. It will take Dremil tools but the off brand Chinese wire wheels and stones can fly apart from RPMs. I do use a Rotozip to power flex shaft. I put 3 steel doors in a building and by the time I cut the steel frames for strike plates and dead bolts the tool was shot. It was a Master Mechanic brand from Tru Value HWD, $19.95.
I just chalk it up as the cost of doing business. I also have adapted worn blades for a Fien vibrating type tool to sand inside of forearms and polish in actions. I use cut off wheels in Dremil to cut the blades to desired width and super glue the abrasive on them.

[GregLaROCHE]

I’m looking at a Dremel 4000. Does anyone have one? Is it a good one to buy?

[Traffer]

I have never bought a Dremel brand rotary tool. From the looks of them in the stores, they run about double the price of equally made units. BUT I HAVE NEVER USED ONE. I have a Ryobi HT20VSK and and 3 or 4 Black & Decker RTX models. I have also tried the Harbor Freight 110V corded units that look similar to the RTX.
I am financially challenged so I don't even try the ones that cost more than $35. I believe the Ryobi is over $35 but it was given to me. The RTX is not heavy duty but the motor is considerably more powerful than the Ryobi and the HF unit is complete garbage. When I took my HF unit back I demonstrated that their littl 12V (with a converter) that sells for $6.99 and is about 1/4 the size has more power than their 110V unit.
The RTX shortcomings are. 1) the bearings are poor. Even brand new you have to get used to the run out on the bearings. And as I use them exclusively on steel and carbide, when grinding dust gets in them they die quick. I make collars from pipe cleaners that keep the grinding dust out of the front bearings. That makes them last about 3 times longer. 2) they cannot be rebuilt. I managed to rebuild one but would advise against trying. I had to fabricate the new brushes and cut rivets to get the motor apart to do it. 3) they heat up quick.
The good of the RTX is the power (adequate for what I do) The PRICE is $35. (in my budget). AND contrary to the button on the tool which says 3 speeds, they are VARIABLE SPEED. I don't know why but they have a variable speed selector that they put detents in at 3 positions. I often set them between the positions...no problem.
The Ryobi was given to me and it looks great, has pretty good bearings, but is so under powered as to render it useless. I suspect that many brands out there are similar with the inadequate power. Probably why people stay away from them. If I would have only tried the Ryobi and the HF units, I would have given up on rotary tools all together.
My advise would be to try to get the sellers to let you try them before you buy. Put them through a real test. If they start smoking or die in your hands, at least you didn't pay for it.
PS I also got a one of those new Walmart brand units for about $30... Died in one day! It was death due to lack of power.

[nekshot]

I’m looking at a Dremel 4000. Does anyone have one? Is it a good one to buy?

I burned up about 3 or 4 of them and then I tried my roto zip and that was that. No new dremels anymore. I will pick up one at a pawn shop if it is reasonable enough. I also use laminate trimmers, regular type routers and plunge routers. I love making wood chips!!

[GregLaROCHE]

I burned up about 3 or 4 of them and then I tried my roto zip and that was that. No new dremels anymore. I will pick up one at a pawn shop if it is reasonable enough. I also use laminate trimmers, regular type routers and plunge routers. I love making wood chips!!

So are you saying Roto Zip is better quality? I haven’t looked at any of them yet. Do the take the same size tools?

[GregLaROCHE]

I just checked out the Rotozip. I think it’s a lot more machine than I am looking for.

Can anyone suggest a good model from Dremel? I think there must be one, or else how would they have become so popular? Maybe they don’t make a good one any more and just produce junk like so many of the old good brands do today.

I’m still trying to figure out what to buy. I don’t want to spend too much, but I hate buying junk!

[country gent]

Ive had the same Dremel at home for 15 years and it still runs fine, but I only use it when absolutely needed, otherwise files and other hand tools. At work we used air grinders ( die grinders 1/4" and 1/8" both) or Foredom flex shaft grinders that were bench mounted. A Dremil used with a soft hand and not forced or over loaded lasts a lot longer. My Dremil is used mostly for polishing with nylon brushes and compounds a very low stress operation. If you planning on heavy use or mounting it in your mini lathe then I would recommend a heavier industrial unit like the Foredoms

[nekshot]

Roto Zip takes same bit shank as Dremel. For me no more "new" dremels. I like them but for my type use Roto is better.

[nekshot]

I also use some 70's chain saw sharpeners and those are sweet handy units. Especially the older Craftsman chain saw power sharpeners.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I've got a few rotary tools, a Dremel, Black&Decker corded. My recent Dremel is the 8220 Cordless. Like all the other cordless power tools, I find it very handy to simply go work without dealing with extension cords. At the workbench, the lack of a cord makes much of the work a little simpler and easier to accomplish. My best Dremel work was removing a broken 6-40 screw from a 6-48 threaded hole without damaging the threads or finish on a Savage 99. I like the Dremel with small sanding drums for final inletting adjustments in difficult wood, Cratex wheels for polishing feed ramps. Work should be in a 'vise' of some type. Two hands with a steady rest to maintain precision for delicate jobs.

[oldred]

Ok how many here would like to see Dremel (or any brand) produce a reversible rotation tool? Basically I find them to be a PITA with a grinding wheel in the standard direction and I have heard lots of other folks complain about this exact same thing! Of course a lot of tools/accessories can only be used in the standard rotation (Burrs, drills, etc) but a lot of things such as sanding discs, grinding wheels, cut-off wheels, etc can be a lot more convenient in a lot of situations if they could be reversed.

Since these tools use a collet for tool retention they will work in either direction so nothing will come un-screwed with the exception of discs, etc that are held on the arbor with a screw and even that was no problem as long as they were on tight, this was on an air powered tool that a guy had at work that only ran in "reverse" direction! Not sure where it came from or what it was meant for but I sure would like to get my hands on an electric one!