Marlin 1894 44mag

[MGySgt]

Long story short - I sent my 1894 44mag off to have a new barrel put on it 16 1/4in and 1 in 20 twist. It has been gone a long time, however the little brown truck delivered it back to me today. Cleaned the barrel and slugged it. .430 with no constrictions. Most of the time it will be shot with cast.

The real question is - What is the best way to break in this new barrel? The old tried and true of shoot 1, clean for 10 shots, then shoot 2 and clean for 20 shots, then shoot groups of 5 and clean for the last 20 rounds out of 50?

Or just shoot 50 rounds through it to burnish the barrel, clean it down to bare metal and shoot my cast?

I know that it will not be an MOA rifle, but I do want good consistant groups at 100+.

[Gray Fox]

I'd polish it with Butch's Bore Paste then head to the range with my favorite cast loads. After I'd slicked it up further that way for a while I might try some jacketed, but then again it might never have anything but cast in it which means my grand children could shoot it many years from now as long as it's kept clean and oiled. GF

[LUCKYDAWG13]

Me i would just Clean it and go to the range and shoot it I like to run about 500 rounds of jacketed bullets first before I shoot cast

[Hickory]

The real question is:

Who did the work for you?

[JoeJames]

Very nice groove diameter.

[Outpost75]

Do you still have the original pulled-off barrel? Is it for sale?

[dangitgriff]

Long story short - I sent my 1894 44mag off to have a new barrel put on it 16 1/4in and 1 in 20 twist. It has been gone a long time, however the little brown truck delivered it back to me today. Cleaned the barrel and slugged it. .430 with no constrictions. Most of the time it will be shot with cast.

The real question is - What is the best way to break in this new barrel? The old tried and true of shoot 1, clean for 10 shots, then shoot 2 and clean for 20 shots, then shoot groups of 5 and clean for the last 20 rounds out of 50?

Or just shoot 50 rounds through it to burnish the barrel, clean it down to bare metal and shoot my cast?

I know that it will not be an MOA rifle, but I do want good consistant groups at 100+.

I wish I knew how they “broke in” a new gun back in 1880. [emoji848][emoji1783]

[MGySgt]

Who did the work for you?

Nonneman Custom Rifles
Regan Nonneman

Although I wouldn't send him anouther one - quoted me 7-8 months and it was 13+ months.

[MGySgt]

Do you still have the original pulled-off barrel? Is it for sale?

No I don't have the original barrel. Didn't ask for it back, plus I didn't get the 5 dummy rounds I sent with the rifle. The old barrel, microgroove, was .431+ too big for a .432 boolit. Maybe go to a .433-.434, but then they wouldn't fit my SBH and it would defeat the purpose of one load for both guns.

[Hickory]

Nonneman Custom Rifles
Regan Nonneman

Although I wouldn't send him anouther one - quoted me 7-8 months and it was 13+ months.

I've been waiting over 40 years for Marlin to produce a 44 magnum with a faster twist rifling, I guess I could wait 13 more months.

[izzyjoe]

You and me both!

[dangitgriff]

I've been waiting over 40 years for Marlin to produce a 44 magnum with a faster twist rifling, I guess I could wait 13 more months.

My .41 mag Henry has a 1:18.75” rifling twist...what is the sweet spot for heavy-for-caliber cast loads? 1:12?

[NWPilgrim]

That sounds like a very nice rifle now!

I can’t fathom why rifle makers doggedly stick to the sorely outdated 1:38 twist. One of them could make a pile of money by simply updating the barrels on existing models to 1:20 or faster. There is absolutely no benefit to that slow of twist, and real limiting inaccuracy with the very popular heavy weight bullets, especially all copper ones that are longer for weight.

[Walks]

I know I wouldn't sent that guy one of my Firearms,

He OWES you your old bbl back, that's a given. Unless he states in BOLD LETTERS, like RUGER does that they Don't return the old bbl. I think they recondition them for future sale.

Fact his I think he stole your old bbl.

[MGySgt]

I know I wouldn't sent that guy one of my Firearms,

He OWES you your old bbl back, that's a given. Unless he states in BOLD LETTERS, like RUGER does that they Don't return the old bbl. I think they recondition them for future sale.

Fact his I think he stole your old bbl.

Maybe he did, but the cost was $525.00 including return shipping. Others that I contacted for the same work was $1,000 and up. Nothing was said about returning my old barrel.

The old barrel was useless to me. Yes, I know there are companies out there that could rebore it to 45 Colt or bore it out and put a liner in it. If he either kept it for another project gun or sold it to someone else, I really don't care.

My concern is will this barrel be a lot more accurate than my old microgroove barrel. I sure as heck hope so or I just wasted $525.00 and SWMBO will be real pissed when I tell her I am selling it and buying a Henry or Mossberg or what ever.

[lar45]

A good friend told me his trick to break in/polishing new barrels. Clean it first, then run 50 dry patches on a tight Jag and scrub the barrel till it shines. Pay particular attention to the throat and lead.

[MGySgt]

Right now I am using the shoot 1 and clean for 10 rounds, shoot 2 and clean it for 20 rounds then shoot 5 round groups to finish off the 50 rounds and it should be good to go.

Went down to my range after dinner, only got 5 rounds fired cleaning between each one before it was geting to dusk and I ran out of patches I took down with me.. God that is slow!

[dangitgriff]

Seriously, how hard is it for the manufacturer to just polish the barrel’s rifling at the dang factory?
Seems like an unnecessary expense for the consumer, unless you’re having fun doing it, in which case I can relate.

[Texas by God]

My suggestion is to just shoot the burrs and boogers out of it. WAY more fun than cleaning.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[MGySgt]

Seriously, how hard is it for the manufacturer to just polish the barrel’s rifling at the dang factory?
Seems like an unnecessary expense for the consumer, unless you’re having fun doing it, in which case I can relate.

I don't think we want to pay what it would cost for the lapping of the barrel like they did way back when. Most manufactures do a good job right out of the gate. Like Ruger and Savage - the both produce excellent accurcy right out of the box - just go shoot them.

I have seen with this barrel, that as I worked through the first 10 rounds - the first 2 or 3 rounds were all over the paper at 25 yards. 8 9 and 10 ragged hole. I am half way through the 2 shot group and the grouping is gettting better. I took plenty of patches down this moring, but when I finished the first 5 sets of 2 rounds between clening, I was starting to run out of bore cleaner and I was getting tired of cleaning the rifle layed accross my lap. :>)
It may be Tuesday afternoon before I am able to finish this process, rain coming in this afternoon and all day tomorrow, (yes I could shoot on Mothers Day and not get in trouble).

[MGySgt]

A good friend told me his trick to break in/polishing new barrels. Clean it first, then run 50 dry patches on a tight Jag and scrub the barrel till it shines. Pay particular attention to the throat and lead.
Lar45 - if I was going to do that I would use JB Bore Paste. I have cleaned rifles before with JB's and it worked great. Not sure if would get the burnishing that firing and cleaning would get.

[dangitgriff]

My suggestion is to just shoot the burrs and boogers out of it. WAY more fun than cleaning.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Here, here!
I second that motion. [emoji106]

[Kev18]

Do you still have the safety on the rifle? I took mine off and replaced it with a saddle ring. It looked like cancer so I took it off... And I also buffed out the nasty WARNING on the barrel. I bought it back a few years ago when I really wanted a .44 mag lever gun for some reason. Since then iv'e started collecting original lever guns from the 19th century. So I really couldnt care less what happens to that one. I beat it in the bush and use it as a walking when need be.

I paid it quite alot, but I guess Im just not as attached to newer models.

[MGySgt]

Yes the safety is still on it, and the warning label went with the old barrel. The only marking on the barrel is '44 Mag', and it looks laser engraved vice stamped or rolled - no constriction.

More about the safety. I tend to like the safety when it is cold and raining out, keeps from an accidental discharge when lowering the hammer on a live round. As soon as I let the hammer down and pull it back to half cock, I take the safety back off.

A long time ago I was deer huntig in Pa with my BIL and my 15 year old niece was letting the hammer down on a 30-30 when her thumb slipped. No one was hurt but my BIL had to go home and change his shorts as the round hit the ground a few inches from his feet. That was the last time that rifle went hunting, it went down the road the next day and he bought a Mossberg that had the safety.

[Kev18]

Yes the safety is still on it, and the warning label went with the old barrel. The only marking on the barrel is '44 Mag', and it looks laser engraved vice stamped or rolled - no constriction.

More about the safety. I tend to like the safety when it is cold and raining out, keeps from an accidental discharge when lowering the hammer on a live round. As soon as I let the hammer down and pull it back to half cock, I take the safety back off.

A long time ago I was deer huntig in Pa with my BIL and my 15 year old niece was letting the hammer down on a 30-30 when her thumb slipped. No one was hurt but my BIL had to go home and change his shorts as the round hit the ground a few inches from his feet. That was the last time that rifle went hunting, it went down the road the next day and he bought a Mossberg that had the safety.

The rifle never malfunctioned. it was her fault that she let it slip. I can see how it could be hard for 15 year old especially if the hands are wet and cold.

[MGySgt]

The rifle never malfunctioned. it was her fault that she let it slip. I can see how it could be hard for 15 year old especially if the hands are wet and cold.

Correct - the rifle did not malfunction, her thumb slipped letting the hammer down and yes it was cold and wet. My BIL did not blame her for the accidential discharge EXCEPT the rifle should have been pointed in a different direction - she did get a toungh lashing for that. But my BIL did not want something like that to happen again.

I have 3 marlins, 2 - 1895 45/70 and this 1894. 2 of them have the safety and I do use the safeties on them.

[yeahbub]

I'd shoot it first and see what results you get. You may already be home free - wouldn't that be nice. You didn't mention whether the rifling is broached, buttoned, cut or hammer forged. If it's button rifling or hammer forged, the bore should be slick as a whistle and break-in will go quickly. Broached or cut rifling generally has some degree of unavoidable burrs or wire edges and benefits from their removal. On even new barrels which show reamer marks across the lands, I'll shoot a few finishing lapping rounds to get the lines all running parallel to bullet travel, not necessarily completely removing them. If they're not loading up with copper or lead and it cleans easily, there's no point in it.

On freshed-out cut-rifled muzzleloaders, we would wrap fine steel wool around an old bore brush until it fit very tightly. Might have to pull it in from the chamber end. Once in the bore, saturate it with motor oil and stroke the full length of the bore (sticking out a bit on each end on each stroke) for 50 - 100 strokes. This will burnish the bore surface and smooth up the edges of the lands where burrs are usually found. It does not remove material other than the nitnoids that are sticking out and shouldn't be there. Use a rod guide to keep the rod from rubbing on the rifling at the muzzle. One can be made from a .35 Rem or similar case with the primer pocket drilled out for the rod diameter if you don't have one. The case neck will slip into the muzzle and protect the bore from rod wear. A chamber-stop for the brush can be made from a fired cartridge case 1/3 to 1/2 full of lead. When chambered, this will allow the brush to protrude a bit beyond the rifling on the breech end without falling out or abusing the bolt face.

[onelight]

I'd shoot it first and see what results you get. You may already be home free - wouldn't that be nice. You didn't mention whether the rifling is broached, buttoned, cut or hammer forged. If it's button rifling or hammer forged, the bore should be slick as a whistle and break-in will go quickly. Broached or cut rifling generally has some degree of unavoidable burrs or wire edges and benefits from their removal. On even new barrels which show reamer marks across the lands, I'll shoot a few finishing lapping rounds to get the lines all running parallel to bullet travel, not necessarily completely removing them. If they're not loading up with copper or lead and it cleans easily, there's no point in it.

On freshed-out cut-rifled muzzleloaders, we would wrap fine steel wool around an old bore brush until it fit very tightly. Might have to pull it in from the chamber end. Once in the bore, saturate it with motor oil and stroke the full length of the bore (sticking out a bit on each end on each stroke) for 50 - 100 strokes. This will burnish the bore surface and smooth up the edges of the lands where burrs are usually found. It does not remove material other than the nitnoids that are sticking out and shouldn't be there. Use a rod guide to keep the rod from rubbing on the rifling at the muzzle. One can be made from a .35 Rem or similar case with the primer pocket drilled out for the rod diameter if you don't have one. The case neck will slip into the muzzle and protect the bore from rod wear. A chamber-stop for the brush can be made from a fired cartridge case 1/3 to 1/2 full of lead. When chambered, this will allow the brush to protrude a bit beyond the rifling on the breech end without falling out or abusing the bolt face.
Good info. Thanks

[MGySgt]

Today I finished up the shoot/clean, 1 shot for 10 rounds then 2 rounds for 20 rounds then 5 rounds for 20 rounds. The cleaning got easier as I went along, didn't expect much in the accuracy department as it was just a load thrown together with Unique and Hornady 180 HP's, did ok but nothing spectcular.

Tonight after dinner, I am going to take my hunting rounds down and see what they do. MM-275gr GC backed with 2400. We shall see what happens after I zerro the scope. (use a scope for load development and also see how the gun actually groups).

I still don't know what sighting system I am going to use on it. Appeture, Red Dot or scope. The scope that is currently on it will not stay on it Leopold 2-7 VX3.

[MGySgt]

Didn't get a chance to go down to the range last night, Grand Daughter was here last night. Spent time with her (she is 6).

I did go down today, but instead of taking my hunting load (with gas check) I took some NOW 255 PB SWC with a medium load of unique.

Qjit after 15 rounds as I could not see my dot (1 in) on my target and could no longer group them, should have put another target up but due to the length of the round I had to single load them through the ejection port. 15 rounds should give me an idea if it was going to lead.

No leading - push a tight dry patch through the barrel - no sticking/feel of leading, no lead on the patch. 3 more dry tight patches and only got lude and powder residue. Barrel looked good.

Tomorrow with a little bit of luck I will put some heaver loads through it with the same boolit. If they don't lead - I believe this barrel is good to go.

By the way - I had moved the beench back to 50 yards. First 5 rounds was a 4 round cluster touching and 1 round to the left less that an inch out - now tht was out of a squeaky clean barrel that had a patch run through it with Break free on it. I think this barrel is going to shoot!!!