Weather proofing a lever gun

[jaysouth]

I have a new toy, a Marlin 336C in 30-30, with the straight stock.

This will be my deer gun for the fall. What is the best way to weather proof the gun?

My plan was to disassemble and spray the wood inside and out with a spray shellac, then degrease the metal exterior with alcohol or acetone and apply some sort of wax to the metal.

What wax would you use, or is there a better way to rain/weather proof a blued gun?

[Maine1]

on the steel, my son and I have had good luck with renaissance wax, though its not cheap, and I have heard of folks using other wax finishes as well. Holds up well in freezing ran and sleet, just wipe it down when you get home.
Does the stock need a refinish? if so, consider a pine tar finish. It was used on a lot of military grade rifles in Europe. It is a bit labor intensive compared to a spray on type, but if you keep applying every year, it will reportedly build up into a hard, nearly impervious finish.
Or so the research says! Ive used it on some tool handles, and have a shooter-grade rifle I have in mind for this.
Logcabinlooms on YouTube has a lot to say about pine tar, its good stuff.

[knifemaker]

Renaissance wax is a good weather protection that can be applied by the gun owner at a small price. That wax is used by the British Museum to protect their metal, wood, and even leather artifacts displayed in the museum. As a knife maker I use it on any hi-carbon steel knife I make to prevent rust prior to shipping the knife to a customer. You can get it at knife supply dealers like Jantz or Texas knife supply. Apply very thin coat then light buff. two coats will be best to make sure you wax all the metal. It dries very fast so you can buff with a cotton cloth in 1-2 minutes. Sealing the wood from moisture and excessive oil is a good idea also.

[samari46]

Any where on a lever gun that has unfinished wood such as under the buttplate, inside the inletting for the tangs and barrel & mag tube should be sealed. Wood loves to absorb moisture so your query is a great idea. Johnson's paste wax is also great for the metal. I've used sanding sealer on some stocks and after sanding it down applied true oil or other stock finish looked great. Frank

[Petrol & Powder]

Renaissance wax for the metal parts is a good idea.

As for the wood, there are a couple of different routes one can take but you must pick only one. If the wood has some type of polyurethane finish on the wood, you're pretty much stuck with that unless you completely remove it. If the wood has some type of oil finish, you pretty much have to continue down that path.

The old clear finish that Remington used was good until the water got under it, then it was terrible.
A traditional linseed oil finish isn't as waterproof but it's easier to touch up and maintain.

Most of the current finishes that appear to be shellac are really polyurethane, which is more like a thin layer of plastic than anything else. They work OK but when water gets under them, it stays there.

Wood is porous and swells when it gets wet. It is a difficult material to "waterproof".

[onelight]

Another thing about shellac , any other product containing alcohol will melt it.

[georgerkahn]

I also have a 336, and use Flitz wax on all of it. Imho, the stuff is awesome! geo240661

[onelight]

The end grain under the butt plate and where the stock meets the receiver I seal with multiple coats of thinned true oil and use wax on the rest of it.
If you pull the butt plate and put a drop of water on the end grain let it set for a few seconds when you wipe it off if it did not soak in it may need nothing but wax.

[725]

I'd never shellac any metal on my guns. I'd spray the internals with "Corrosion - X" or "Fluid Film" and then hit it all with compressed air. Wipe it clean and rest assured that no rust will ever come to the metal. Do this a couple times a season and you will be in good shape.

[onelight]

I'd never shellac any metal on my guns. I'd spray the internals with "Corrosion - X" or "Fluid Film" and then hit it all with compressed air. Wipe it clean and rest assured that no rust will ever come to the metal. Do this a couple times a season and you will be in good shape.
I believe that he was thinking of shellac for the stock not metal parts.

[country gent]

I used paste wax on hunting firearms for years for foul weather protection. on the wood I sealed any areas not sealed finished Usually with thinned down tru oil ( this allows it to soak in deeper and a thinner build up). On stocks with thru bolts don't forget to seal the inside open wood on them also. ( Tang screws, action screws ect) these are closest to the bedding and moisture here will affect bolt tension. Here I used a small bore mop dipped in tru oil to coat them inside several times. Then wax down wood and you should be ready for anything

[pietro]

.

Don't forget to remove the buttstock and apply a heavy blob of paste wax to the joint between the stock & the receiver upper/lower tangs, wiping off the squeeze-out.

I also finger press a bead of paste wax on the upper faces of the forend alongside the barrel sides.

.

[John Boy]

https://www.rustoleum.com/pages/factor-4/?msclkid=1debb7594d691a74bcdeeb9e40b84ffc

[jaysouth]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the responses.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

To seal a stock I like a Polyurethane spar varnish (exterior) thinned with mineral spirits on all 'unfinished' wood. I repeat several times until no longer being absorbed. I have used Johnson Paste Wax, WD40 and Brownell's Rusr Preventer#2 on hidden metal surfaces(let dry and not as lubricant),all worked well. There are a lot of products used for metal rust prevention on the market. For 'hidden metal' a thin coat of some paint/coating also works. I wipe down exterior metal with WD-40 to help protect exposed surfaces. Haven't really had rust issues doing this. Drying and oiling after getting wet is the real key. Stainless is good if you can get what you want in stainless.

[Wolfer]

I use Johnson’s paste wax on everything. Other stuff may be better but this works and it’s what I have.

[Wayne Smith]

1). there is no wood finish that is waterproof short of a dipped epoxy. You don't want that.

2). Whatever you use to finish the wood add a good coat of wax, let dry, and polish. This is the closest you will get to a true waterproof finish, and it won't stand a soaking i.e. Buttstock in the snow all night.

3). Do open up all closed wood areas and at least give a good wax coat. Do not overlook tangs and tang screws, as mentioned.

4). As long as you have the metal finish you want a good coat of wax - if necessary brushed on with a toothbrush (inside of my flintlock lock) and renew this at minimim yearly.