New to progressive reloading

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

I just bought a Lee Breech Lock Pro as my first foray into progressive reloading.

My first press was a Lee turret press so I learned a lot on that. Then I sold that and went with a Lee hand press. Then I got a 9mm and realized my hand press couldn't keep up.

I tricked out my Breech Lock Pro with case feeder, safety prime, and auto disk pro. So my right arm runs the ram, left hand primes and places a bullet. Boy to I like to hear that "plunk" of a loaded round hitting the bin ever pull of the lever!

On my turret press I had the cheaper auto disk measure which doesn't have the shut-off. The auto disk pro can shut off the dispenser by turning the hopper. Well that burnt me! I loaded 100 rounds of empty cases! Pulled 'em all.

Went to Home Depot and picked up a lighted inspection mirror after that. I've got to come up with a creative way for mounting that to see into the case before putting the bullet on. Any suggestions or photos would be appreciated.

I also noticed that a good number of rounds either bounce out of the bin, or don't make it to the bin in the first place. Are there any tweaks for that?

Other than that - it looks like this press will pay for itself soon. Ultimately, my plan is to get a tool box or bin to store the press in and have it set up so I can transport it to the basement or back porch and just use C-clamps on whatever convenient table is available. I really learned to like using my Lee Hand press while sitting in the back yard in a lawn chair.

[JeepHammer]

Bin. Cardboard & tape, make a chute.
If you get just what you want, use the cardboard as a template and cut/bend metal.
Most of the common bins have a slots in the front for labels, turn the bin around & use these slots for your chute mount.

Inspection mirror & light.
Sewing machine lights, eBay,
Search 'Sewing Machine Lights'.
My favorite (about $5) is a magnetic base, 30 LED head on about a 10" long flex neck.

I have old eyes, so lots of lights and the LED lights are super low consumption and no heat.

Mirrors, I have an entirely different press, but I use PVC pipe, magnets to mount, bends into any shape with heat (heat gun).

https://oi1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag58/JeepHammer1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1189_zpsgizslm99.jpg

My feeder mirrors are common convex mirrors for big trucks, dirt cheap, bolt to mount, convex let's you see what's in the bin from most angles in front of the press.
You will want a flat mirror for powder check...

[JeepHammer]

Other than that - it looks like this press will pay for itself soon.

That's what everyone *THINKS*...
Welcome to the sickness!
Progressive loaders are like old JEEPs, JEEP stands for "Just Empty Every Pocket"...

[MrWolf]

For the blue bins I made some fronts which slip in the grooves from some thin sheet metal I had laying around.

[daloper]

I hand prime before loading so I had the open spot on my progressive. I put a Hornady Powder COP die in to check for the powder drop.

[Willbird]

I remember an old article on progressive reloading when Star was about the only game in town. The Author had developed some procedures that he used all of the time, some of them might be good ideas even with auto index machines.

He would cut a wood dowel short enough to allow insertion into a case charged with powder, then mark it to use as a "powder present" gauge, he would stick it in the charged case and leave it there until he started running the machine again, might be stepping away for a few minutes for something.

Another thing he did when first starting up was to stir the powder in the powder measure to make sure nothing had clumped up.

[onelight]

On progressives I want my head enough higher than the press I can look down and see the powder charge every time I place a bullet on the case . So on the same mount as a Single stage I need to either stand , use a bar stool , or lower the press.
Pin cleaned cases brighten inside the case as does good lighting .
The press lighting kits work well as do certain task lights I have one that clamps on and can be directed where needed. On my ABLP I can see the the primer through the flash hole on 9,40 & 45 acp so seeing the powder is not problem if your head is higher than the cases. This is what works for me. Probably many other ways to do it but will be work best if you do not need to change your position to see the powder.
Here is the lighting I have.
240358240359
The pic on left is task light and press light the right is press light

[Willbird]

There are some pretty cool laser distance sensors we use on machines at work.

https://www.keyence.com.ph/products/sensor/laser/gv/models/gv-h45/index.jsp

Might be interesting because it would illuminate where the laser is aimed, and maybe allow a non contact powder check. Accuracy of that sensor is .5mm which is .019"...pretty accurate. They are not cheap tho. Once calibrated they are pretty bomb proof tho.

Bill

[onelight]

There are some pretty cool laser distance sensors we use on machines at work.

https://www.keyence.com.ph/products/sensor/laser/gv/models/gv-h45/index.jsp

Might be interesting because it would illuminate where the laser is aimed, and maybe allow a non contact powder check. Accuracy of that sensor is .5mm which is .019"...pretty accurate. They are not cheap tho. Once calibrated they are pretty bomb proof tho.

Bill
That would be great !

[Walter Laich]

Another thing he did when first starting up was to stir the powder in the powder measure to make sure nothing had clumped up.

I always return the powder to its container when done--too easy for me to get sidetracked and forget it's in there for a number of days

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

So what's the point of the open-closed feature on the hopper of Lee's Auto Disk Pro measure? I just closed it and turned off the brass knobs to dump the powder back in its container and there was still a pile of powder that spilled out all over.

[XDROB]

I got led lighting called their Skylight. One light goes in the center hole and the strip light gets mounted to one of the main legs of the press. My press is a Hornady LnL. The thin piece of cardboard. Is my fix to help finished rounds fall into the tray.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190425/67d8c20b559971a1532498533ad62dc3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190425/78111398b526ac14df4a276623074d53.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190425/0a6d6b60bc52dac172bf447d076c36c5.jpg

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[XDROB]

I got led lighting called their Skylight. One light goes in the center hole and the strip light gets mounted to one of the main legs of the press. My press is a Hornady LnL. The thin piece of cardboard. Is my fix to help finished rounds fall into the tray.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190425/67d8c20b559971a1532498533ad62dc3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190425/78111398b526ac14df4a276623074d53.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190425/0a6d6b60bc52dac172bf447d076c36c5.jpg

Sent from my SM-T827V using TapatalkI forgot to add name company: Inline Manufacturing

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[RED BEAR]

Glad everything is working out for you.

[onelight]

So what's the point of the open-closed feature on the hopper of Lee's Auto Disk Pro measure? I just closed it and turned off the brass knobs to dump the powder back in its container and there was still a pile of powder that spilled out all over.
If you need to change the powder charge you turn Off the hopper but the disk still has powder in it so take an empty case and cycle it through the the powder die until you get no powder you can then adjust the disk without a spill.

[tazman]

So what's the point of the open-closed feature on the hopper of Lee's Auto Disk Pro measure? I just closed it and turned off the brass knobs to dump the powder back in its container and there was still a pile of powder that spilled out all over.

It doesn't shut off at the top of the disk. There is about 2-3 charges left in the tube under the hopper depending upon load size.
Turn the hopper to off then dispense the remaining powder ito a case and dump it back into the hopper or can. Then you can remove the hopper without the mess.

I was typing as onelight posted. Sorry for the duplicate.

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

Thanks guys. Now that I see the answer I realize the question is kind of . . . well duh! My stupidity amazes me sometimes.

[JeepHammer]

The only stupid question is the one you don't ask...

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

OK got the mirror set up. Works pretty slick.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32749483177_ce5a2c7415_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/RTXEnF)[url=https://flic.kr/p/RTXEnF]

[Willbird]

I always return the powder to its container when done--too easy for me to get sidetracked and forget it's in there for a number of days

The Author was talking about Star loaders, dumping one of those is a pain :-).

Bill

[onelight]

OK got the mirror set up. Works pretty slick.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32749483177_ce5a2c7415_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/RTXEnF)[url=https://flic.kr/p/RTXEnF]

Nice!

[David2011]

I remember an old article on progressive reloading when Star was about the only game in town. The Author had developed some procedures that he used all of the time, some of them might be good ideas even with auto index machines.

He would cut a wood dowel short enough to allow insertion into a case charged with powder, then mark it to use as a "powder present" gauge, he would stick it in the charged case and leave it there until he started running the machine again, might be stepping away for a few minutes for something.

Another thing he did when first starting up was to stir the powder in the powder measure to make sure nothing had clumped up.

Another option is to leave the stage raised to the dies and the handle down. That eliminates all ambiguity.

[JeepHammer]

Another option is to leave the stage raised to the dies and the handle down. That eliminates all ambiguity.

Yes.
It also keeps Propellant covered since the brass are in the dies.

I used larger cases painted red turned over on the brass in the machine.
It was cheap & effective, but the handle down does the same job and no 'Fiddling' needed.

---------

This is a 'Tinkers' hobby, there are few hard, fast rules, and you will find that factory made equipment doesn't always fit YOUR precise application.
For instance, the guy cranking .380 ammo that doesn't bridge the gap between shell plate & bin, you need to make a chute.

The 'Tinkers' cut up a snack box & some tape and make a chute,
When the chute works the way they want, the cut up an aluminum can or get some aluminum 'Flashing' from the home center roofing & siding section, and a set of tin snips and make their chute out of metal.

A sewing machine light works equally as well on a reloaders, so does LED car tail lights, what most of the 'Center Hole' lights are made of.

A tear down/tool press is REAL handy!
My progressives all have a tool press handy, no 'Mystery' rounds laying on the bench EVER.
Any brand, about any type, doesn't matter when you are bending an out of specification case the progressive doesn't accept, or tearing down suspicious rounds or rounds that don't pass QC.

I prefer a quick change head, so I can change tools quickly, but it doesn't really matter.

https://oi1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag58/JeepHammer1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsfdtjlssm.jpg

In this case it's an old 3 hole Lee 'Turret' you can find used for $25-$35 is a 5 second tool change for the cases/rounds that don't cooperate or pass QC.
Bullet pullers, universal decapping die, other tools all with 5 second set up in tool heads.
If you can see it, the bolts are up from the bottom, bolt sticking up from the press, my three most popular caliber shell holders are on the press for quick reference on those bolts.

-----------------

There is something to be said for ergonomics,
Notice the presses are inset into the bench?
This puts them BEHIND the forward supports (legs) of the bench.
No bench 'Tipping' or wall slapping when working.

If you look under the 'Blue' press, you will find a brace directly under the press.

What you can't see is height.
The bench top is adjusted so the press handle ball is just below my shoulder while sitting in a comfortable, SOLID chair, and I don't have to lean forward to push the handle down.
With the press inset into the bench, I can adjust up to the press, have table top on both sides,
No unnecessary trays with extensions for bullets, cases or loaded rounds.

This is a comfortable arrangement for several hours, no distractions from pain...
The more comfortable you are, the less it wears you out,
And if you spend a LOT of time in front of a press, there is repetitive stress injury to consider.
Tendonitis ('tennis elbow'), carpal tunnel, arthritis, etc.

Most won't think through the force of motion on a pump handle press,
But a couple hundred bucks thrown at a solid, properly fitting bench makes things SO MUCH MORE EFFICIENT & comfortable it's not funny...
They will throw $2,000 to $5,000 at a press & accessories, but they won't spend $200 on a dedicated work station that gets them organized & comfortable...

Notice with a 24" deep top, presses inset, everything is within comfortable reach of the operating position.
No chasing pieces, parts, accessories, no place for anything to roll off the sides or back...
Everything has a place, everything in it's place, everything out of harm's way.

The presses inset, they aren't elbow or hip busters when you aren't reloading.

[JeepHammer]

A hinge on the shelf, holes & brass pins from a brass rod.
This is simply a drill & a board.

The case gauges, shell holders for each die set, random dies, all just holes & brass pins.
Your case neck deburring tool works equally well for deburring brass pins...

https://oi1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag58/JeepHammer1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsfmvg2ldq.jpg

A simple screen door bolt latch keeps the shelf locked in the upright position, it rests on a screw in the side of the bench in the down position.
Room for storage under the shelf on the bench top...

Not much to it, but no dies/tool heads in cabinets, drawers, unprotected, everything for that caliber in one place and instantly handy.
Brass won't wear the case gauges, and it's stupid easy to work with...

The big box stores will cut your boards/plywood for little or nothing,
The plywood cut square on a panel cutter,
You need a square, a saw, a drill motor & bits/hole cutters.
Your needs & imagination are the limit, and if you screw up, $2 worth of wood isn't going to break the bank...

[onelight]

Really nice setup JeepHammer you have given that a lot of thought.

[JeepHammer]

After 35 years of 'Making Due' I decided to start at the BEGINNING...
Should be common sense, but I started small with Grandpa and couldn't see the forest for the trees.

Start at the beginning, by butt in a comfortable, solid chair...
(Or would that be starting at my fat back end? ;) )

My butt in a solid chair that doesn't swivel so I don't have to fight the swivel motion,
Both feet flat on the floor for leverage,
Press handle at the correct height so I'm not reaching above the shoulder or below the waste when putting leverage on the handle,
And having the presses inset into the bench so I didn't need extension arms for trays to hold bullets & cases.

That also put the press rotational arm force behind the forward support/legs where, planting the bench instead of pulling/pushing/twisting the workstation.

Remove UNSUPPORTED motion/force, making sure all movement was supported (more or less) made the bench solid and by extension, the press was solid.

Then it becomes a question of support gear, what to do with the 'Extras',
And a board for a shelf or a board with some holes is pretty darn simple.
KISS: Keep It Stupid Simple.

I own a machine shop, so this could all be slick finished metal with TIG welded joints, wild colors, lots of gadgets...
Gadgets & color doesn't make better ammo, and it worked out so well that I didn't need to throw $1,000 at aluminum or steel to 'Improve' it.

The other issue I had was a bunch of general junk on the table I was using for a bench...
The 1050 stuff mixed with the 650 stuff, the case qualifier stuff mixed in with the case roller stuff, the Lee stuff mixed with Dillon & RCBS stuff, and general junk & tools mixed in with everything....

I reach for Lee tool heads quite often, so the tool heads are close to the press.
The Dillon caliber changes are on the top shelf, since you don't change caliber but ONCE in a reloading session,
The 1050 has it's own bench so the parts don't get mixed up...
The 1050 processes brass, I normally load on the 650, the 650 doesn't need a case trimmer, swager, etc so all that stuff is on the 1050 bench...

Most people don't process brass in the volume I do...
So they won't loose their minds trying to neck qualify brass.

https://oi1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag58/JeepHammer1/IMG_0994_zpsmed3vvnx.jpg

Even with a lighted inspection table, around 1,000 brass you get eye strain,
And around 10,000 you start looking to drag a rifle into a clock tower! :(

I inspect at every step,
Cleaning, transfer to bins, then mechanical inspection up to 3k/hr, then case roll, get the lower bloating/swelling out of the cases, get rid of 'Glock Smile', etc,
Then off to decrimp, swaging, trimming & sizing in a 1050...

I pick out bad brass while scooping, washing, drying,
The neck qualifier finds most I missed, the case roller finds a few more, so I don't have a ton of jams at the processing press...

I stress ergonomics now, I'm 'Disabled'.
I also screwed myself by getting tendonitis ('tennis elbow') just before a week long national shoot from loading 'Fresh' ammo, before I was 'Disabled' and in exceptional shape... It can get anyone.

There is also carpal tunnel & arthritis to consider, repetitive stress injury is very real and if a $200 workstation stops that, you get to enjoy reloading MUCH longer in life.

My 'Issues' virtually went away once everything fit ME instead of what I could repurpose and had to fit it...
(The 'Franken-bench!)

The guys that load a few hundred or few thousand a year probably won't notice, but when you load a few thousand a week you most certainly will!

[David2011]

Keep,

YES! Good ergonomic structure makes reloading so much more enjoyable and less painful. I like to stand at the progressive press so I set the bench height so I wouldn’t have to bend at the waist at the bottom of the stroke. Time will tell how long I can stand to use the progressives. When I have to sit it’s probably time to quit shooting action pistol sports.

[kmw1954]

Keep,

Time will tell how long I can stand to use the progressives. When I have to sit it’s probably time to quit shooting action pistol sports.

Why I have been on Disability for 4 years now, I sit at my bench with the progressive press and I still shoot regularly. Just like with standing it all just takes getting the right ergonomics.

[Baltimoreed]

241531I also always sit when reloading. But my take on lighting is to use the clamp on desk lamps [found mine at the habitat/goodwill stores] with the 4 long springs that can swivel and move up and down and stay where you put them. I mounted mine [4] above the level of my bench on my shelving. Depending on what I’m doing and what press I’m using I can move the lights to illuminate my work area. Or I can move them out of the way. I know my pix is cluttered up but you can see my 2 black desk lamps and how they’re mounted on the shelf.

[XDROB]

I forgot to mention the lights in my area. I also use a light mounted to the top shelf. It also have a bulb in it that produces heat when Froglubing my hand guns. Its getting harder to find bulbs that get hot because of the move to LEDs.
I also have a floor stand florescent round lamp/ magnifier.

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