looking to use this PID

[melw]

I have two pots that I want to put PIDs on. a lee 10 LB and a Seco pot that I have had for years.
The Seco has never worked right. I think the Thermostat had failed and that is why the old guy sold it to me. It wont cycle and stays on. It looks to be a good pot to use with a PID.
I am looking at this one On eBay,

ebay link for PID Model: TA4-RNR deleted by moderator.

Sorry about the long link.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Mel W.

[wv109323]

There is alot of info about proper pid to use on the site.
On the Saeco I would do away with the thermostat and hook the pid directly to the heating element. That does away with a lot of wire terminals which are problems.

[melw]

I have looked at a lot of the threads here. Just trying to get some fedback on this unit.
Thanks for looking.
Mel W.

[mattw]

You will want the SNR. The RNR only drives a relay, the SNR drives a solid state relay. The TA4 is a pretty good unit, mine lasted 5 years with heavy use. The SSR failed and took out the driver in mine.

[melw]

You will want the SNR. The RNR only drives a relay, the SNR drives a solid state relay. The TA4 is a pretty good unit, mine lasted 5 years with heavy use. The SSR failed and took out the driver in mine.

Thanks for that info. Funny that it is bundled wit a SSR.
Thanks
Mel W.

[mattw]

Yeah, have noticed that a couple of times. I am not sure it would work well, the voltage going to the SSR is variable or can be variable depending on your config. I think the voltage required to turn on a relay may be to high for the SSR. My SSR's want around 3 volts to turn on and most of the relay output units put out 12 volts to run the relay.

[melw]

I sent the seller a question about this. We will see what he says. I also looked at the photos and saw a set of terminals marked SSR. This is all new to me. I have been reading and trying to get a handel on what I need.
I will let the board know what the seller says.
Thanks
Mel

[Mike W1]

You also should get a K type TC not a PT100

[mattw]

Yes, K type work very well. If you look around you will find them in the 4 to 6 inch range with a threaded base. I made a small metal part that fits under one of the pot mounting screws and holds the sensor off the bottom and sides. The probe needs to be in the liquid and not touching the pot sides or bottom or it will not read accurately. I usually look for 1000 degree probes, a little headroom in the pot.

I think Mypin has a unit that does one relay and 1 ssr, but one would want to be really sure which you have. If memory serves the SNR model is 1 channel ssr, 1 channel nothing and a relay output for alarm. They are hard to find documentation for the part numbers. I think the RNR is 1 relay channel, one open channel and a relay for an alarm driver. They do make an SSR with 2 ssr channels and a relay for alarm. This is all from memory, so take it for what it is worth.

I have found the auto tune to work very well on them and the menu structure is more intuitive than the Inkbird. The Inkbird does seem to struggle to hold temps for me. I have finally managed to tune the one Inkbird that I have and it is working much better.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Depending on your level of knowledge with PID's, I'd recommend spending a few more dollars, than the cheapest that Ebay has to offer ...I explain why in this thread...see post #8
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?355277-which-PID-to-use&p=4298740&viewfull=1#post4298740

[melw]

Here is the kit I bought.242591
The second photo is the box and long thermocouple I got to add to it.
242592
Still need the power connectors for 110 in and out as well as hook up wire and the terminal block.
This project may take a while as i am going back and forth between Calif and Nv.

Thanks for looking.

[44magLeo]

When I built mine I used a metal cash box. Had several I got over the years. The kind you see people use at yard sales and such.
I mounted the PID on the front. Mounted two switches on the front. One is power on through the PID, the other bypasses the PID. I use the bypass to get things warmed up then switch to the PID for casting.
I wired the power in with a heavy extension cord, just cut the outlets off. Wired the power out to the single outlet. Temp probe wired to PID.
SSR bolted to inside of box.
I wind up the power cord and temp probe and store inside the box. So when closed it makes it tidy.
To hold the probe I twisted a piece of heavy wire, copper ground out of ten gauge house wire, coat hanger will work too, around a Phillips Head screwdriver. Left one end of this coil out to bend a loop into. Hooked this loop under one of the screws on top of the pot with the coil pointing up.
When in use I open box, pull out power cord and temp probe. Plug the pot into the outlet on the box. Fire it up with the bypass switch. Once hot enough I slide the probe down through the coil of wire into the lead. Flip switches so PID takes over.
Works well. I can also use the same PID for other tasks. Such as running the toaster oven for powder coated items.
Leo

[Smoke4320]

I have built several so far . I like using plastic ammo boxes. they are not conductive , will not rust, flip up top for easy access and have plenty of room
readout, on/off switch in front receptacles and T-couples out the long side

[Kpj313]

That's a brilliant idea! I would love to see some pictures seeing I'm shopping around for the components for my PID.

[Smoke4320]

242825
242832
I have 2 for smokers and 1 for a lead pot

[melw]

Smoke4320
That works! Cool job.

[melw]

I like the coat hanger idea. It would make god bracket. Thanks!

[Smoke4320]

Yes the plastic ammo boxes are cheap too. Like the built in handle for moving around
I wrap the power cord and the t couple around the handle for storage.
Theres enough room i can get my big mitts in there and work and not worry about shorting something out

[Kpj313]

242825
242832
I have 2 for smokers and 1 for a lead pot

Smoke, could I see pictures of the inside? I'm just trying to figure out the SSR and heatsink mounting.

[Mike W1]

Not sure if this will help. SSR on top of the heat sink with a THIN layer of heat transfer grease between them. Sink can be mounted on side or bottom of box, it's fins dissipate the heat of the SSR. Just a homemade box on mine with vent holes on back. I also prefer crimped soldered connections EXCEPT on the TC leads where that should not be done without special spade tips.
243250

[Kpj313]

This is what I came up with, I just wasn't sure how to mount the heat sink. Thanks for the help. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190610/76eb507194d2ad5ef28a8f806cbb7c9a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190610/0a0475787f50e4451bc44ffd5b0d6a0e.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[HATCH]

You might want to secure that stainless braided TC wire.
if it touches a hot lead then you can burn you bench up.
I can't remember the guy that built one and his TC wire touched the hot lead and it became a heating element.
Caught his wooden bench on fire. About burnt down his shop if I remember correctly.

[Kpj313]

Will do, thanks for the heads up!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[melw]

I like that people are showing there pids. I have made some progress on mine.
I figured out where the big parts go.
243591
243592
Then I cut the square holes for the large parts and filed to fit.
243593
243594
I am in process of laying out the vent holes for cooling.
I have a very small fan but have not decided if it is necessary.
It also needs DC voltage and that means some sort of power supply.
Do you guy have a fuse in yours?

Thanks for looking.
Mel

[melw]

Have made some progress. Starting to get the wiring done.
Here is a photo.245309
Thanks for looking!
Mel

[melw]

Well I have finished the controller. I think I have figured out how to programthe pid.
245528
I also mounted the thermocouple to the pot I want to use it on.
245529
I would like to find a temp conversion chart that I can print out and stick to the box.
Thanks foe looking.
Mel

[Mike W1]

I'll try attaching a little chart I think I made up for mine. If it doesn't happen to work out that I can do it PM me and I could then be able to email not only that but some things I've learned along the way. Well I can't figure out a way to send it on here. Or do as I did and google C to F and make a little chart up with the ranges you're interested in. I'm sure that's where I got my info.

[HATCH]

I can barely make out the model # but I think this is the manual for what you have

https://www.rkcinst.co.jp/english/pdf_manual/imnzc22e1.pdf


According to the manual, page # 7 you can change the display from C to F

Also look at section 6.3 on Page 6 and run autotune

Keep in mind the problem with buying cheaper model PIDs is that some of them are CLONES and are labeled just like the original units.
They don't have all the functions and features of the original units.
I remember one "clone" that didn't have the auto tune function

[Ausglock]

Yep. The chinese copy of the REX-100 has no auto tune and you can't swap Deg C for F.

[melw]

I would be willing to bet this is one of the clones. I have the paper that came with it and saw nothing about auto tune or changing from C to F.
Unfortunately I am away and can't work with it for a while.
Thanks for helping!
Mel