had failure to ignite with regular primer

[bmortell]

was loading j-words for once instead of cast, was making 300wm 168mk 62gr h380 mainly cause I realized I have no use for h380 at the moment, and half way through making em I doubled checked data and realized it said "magnum" primer as hodgdon list 59-63gr with magnum primer on website. so im like oh well a regular primer can light h380 its not slow for 300wm and im near max, and "click" I pulled it and the powder smelled burnt and a clump of it was sort of burned melted together.

I thought it was interesting observation. was the primer fully functional cause the bullet didn't move idk what it can do by itself in that case

guess your supposed to follow directions :p

[Walks]

How old was the primer ? What brand ?

Was it a Winchester from the early 2000's when WIN switched to brass plated cups from nickel plated cups ?

Many of my friends and fellow Cowboy Shooter's had many duds from that first "changeover" lot.

[bmortell]

Just cci LR, theyve always been good for me, the only other time i ever had a problem was i tried slightly under min load of 4350 in 3006, and exact same thing, the coating seemed and smelled burnt but it just didnt take off

[bmortell]

Just got the primer out and checked its completely clean and empty so it was fully functional

[gwpercle]

In handloading ...the details do matter .... sometimes they matter a lot .
Be careful out there,
Gary

[243winxb]

The discontinued H450 did the same for me. Same family as H380.

But i was using a CCI Magnum primer in a 22-250.

[Winger Ed.]

How old was the primer ? What brand ?

Was it a Winchester from the early 2000's when WIN switched to brass plated cups from nickel plated cups ?

Many of my friends and fellow Cowboy Shooter's had many duds from that first "changeover" lot.

I have a case of those brass LRs left over from the old days.
They did OK then, but now I'm getting about a 2-3% 'dud' rate.
Them, and the loaded ammo with them was stored in those vacuum pack freezer bags, and inside GI ammo cans.

[Norske]

I've been using Winchester primers for any handloads involving graphite coated double-base ball powders since I had a hang fire in my 45-70 with one of those powders and CCI primers. By-the-way, the new Western Powders loading manual calls for Winchester primers for most of their double-base powders. We need more heat to burn off the graphite coatings.

[Conditor22]

I got 2 bricks of Winchester Magnum primers and 0ver 50% of the one I tested required 2 primmer pin strikes to ignite in several guns, but I don't think it was the primmer. I think something went wrong with the powder.

The powder should burn fine with a regular primer, just not ignite as fast?

Did this repeat itself in more than 1 reload or was it a lone occurrence?

There could have been something left in/got in the case or powder?

[tomme boy]

The powder had the graphite burned off. It happens with a ball powder more than people realize. It is one of the reasons that some people can not get good accuracy with ball powders. Couple of ways you can help this. More neck tension, deeper seated bullet. Or just use a mag primer like it was called for.

Another thing that can cause this is a LONG worn throat.

[Rich/WIS]

I found that BLC2 and Win 748 needed mag primers. Probably would not have noticed but my kids bought me a set of electronic muffs and when I used them every so often I would notice the click of the hammer/firing pin hitting before the bang with standard primers. Switched to mag primers and the problem went away. Win primers are listed for standard and magnum loads and are hotter to ignite their powders.