New bench top, top material

[kmw1954]

This will be a quick simple question. I just finished cutting and gluing a new 2'X4' plywood bench top. Also on top of this bench will be a pc. of 3/8" steel plate permanently bolted to the bench top. Now I want to finish off the top so that it is flush with the plate and thought about routing it into the plywood then had a change of heart. I am now thinking of adding a pc of 1/4" MDF and then topped off with either a pc of white dry erase board, pc of black smooth chalkboard or hardwood panel. https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...2-c-13337.htm?tid=4834190771172558463&ipos=36

What would you chose?

[Bookworm]

I wouldn't use a black, or dark colored, top. It will suck up the light in your reloading area. I need more light, not less.

For the flip side, I don't use shiney white either; too much glare.

I've settled on a light tan gloss paint from Rust-Oleum (the oil based enamel. Yes, the stuff that takes forever to dry.), covered with a semi-gloss clear polyurethane. Easy to wipe up, easy to re-coat if needed.

As for the press plate, I routered mine in flush. I'm happy I did.

[country gent]

I think my next bench top may be a form of corian. works easily, can be glued down ( though press bolts and other bolts will reinforce it also ) Looks good, can be worked with wood working tools, and scratches can be sanded out if needed. Should be able to use a wax pencil to make quick temporary notes and wipe off.
I did one bench top with a bar top epoxy and while its held up good its not as easy to sand scratches out of and will chip to impacts. It wasn't bad to apply but was a more work. wrapped edge of finished bench top ( butcher block style) with tape 3/32 above surface, mixed epoxy to instructions and poured in filling to top of tape even. heat with heat gun to remove air bubbles and level completely ( on a 28" x 8' surface this was a big task in itself). Took a full day to cure. Leveling the bench top as close as possible is a big help here. It is reflective also, almost a mirror.

[Baltimoreed]

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I had to look up what a press plate was. Looks like a good idea if you’re limited on bench room but need to swap presses. My slant was to use furniture nuts in two different configurations to allow me to swap out presses between my 12 ga Bair press and an old single stage. I like my light grey textured formica office desk material, came with finished edges so it looks nice. Kmw, I assume that you are going to drill and tap holes to match up to whichever press that you’re using. But 3/8 furniture nuts, oak or desk material and allen head cap screws from Lowes hold fine and are easier to do. The pictures show how I swap presses on that end of my bench, pardon the mess. Good luck on your build.

[nun2kute]

I couldn't get your link to work. Don't know about what your looking at for dry erase, but the two small ones I use are thin metal covered with some type of plastic. If your as fumble'ee as me it would be dented all over in no time. The bench I use the most has a white Formica on it that is chemical resistant, easy to clean and helps reflect the light for my tired eyes. Cant tell you how much it would cost, it was left over from a job when I was playing at being a Finish Carpenter. I have no regrets about it. But all my bench tops are different. Solid core door, solid 3" lumber, particle board, aluminum plate and Formica. It all depends on what you want, and how you will used or abuse it. Hardboard is very durable and would be very easy to replace. Not sure how a chalk board would work out, but it would be real easy to make notes on. Whatever you do, we need pictures when your done.

[samari46]

Have an old table that was made by Lyons which was a manufacturer of office furniture. Cost was free. Full dimension scaffold planks 2"x10" cut to length bolted to the top and made some shelves to fit between the legs and the sides closed in with plywood and front was hinged and a hasp and staple screwed in place so it would be locked. Ran my electric plane over the top and then sanded and varnished. Second table I got for free had a section of hard rock maple which was again bolted in place and the bolts were counter sunk and filled with plastic wood. Set it up same as the other one. They haven't moved in 23 years and I dread doing so. They ain't going anywhere and neither is the rockchucker or dillon. And if it wasn't for the ceiling fan with the lights I would have installed led lights. Frank

[kmw1954]

Many good points folks! I am actually really enjoying this whole project as it's been awhile since I've been able to do anything like this because of health reasons. So I hope as you can see between this thread and this thread; http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?379560-Building-new-bench-top-ideas I'm proceeding slowly and have already made a few changes in design. Which I also just realized while talking with a friend that these panels are 24"X48" and my benchtop is 25" deep. OOps! Now thinking I may add a backsplash of some kind to make up the 1" and it would keep stuff from rolling off the back.

I am now shying away from the blackboard as my wife also brought up that it will be more porous and hold dirt. The Dry marker board may prove to be too reflective. So let's see what else we can come up with. 24"X48" Red Oak veneer panel?

[David2011]

One of my bench tops is made from red oak veneered ply. The finish is many coats of Minwax wipe-on oil based satin polyurethane. The finish was easy to apply, has no "brush" marks and is easy to keep clean even with all of the primer residue, powder, lubricants and everything that gets on it around reloading presses. The edges were finished with iron on edge banding which was sanded flush with the top and bottom after application. I like the bench enough that I'm moving it to my new house.

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[JimB..]

My reloading benchtop is 2x8’s on a 2” angle iron base.

Putting a layer of 2x4’s between the metal framing and the metal plate of your bench will ensure that the top is really never flat. Lose the dimensioned lumber, put the steel plate on the steel frame and then top with something manufactured like plywood or mdf.

[kmw1954]

Went to Menards today and bought a pc of 1/8"X2'X4' hardboard Masonite and a pc of 1/4"X2'X4' MDF. I also picked up a pc of decorative molding to finish off the front. Now I am thinking of just spot gluing the Masonite to the top of the MDF in case it ever needs to be replaced.

Now to get over this dang cold so I can get busy. Took cold meds today and ended up in a 3.5hr nap.

[kmw1954]

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Here are a few pictures of what I'm doing. One of the 2'X4'X3/4" ACX plywood, a couple with the MDF and hardboard in place but not fastened and one with the molding that will be used on the front edge.

Please excuse the mess as I am doing this in my reloading room and with the bench apart things are disorganized.

[W.R.Buchanan]

You have glued up the perfect base for a section of Formica Counter Top. I am talking the formed type of counter top with a back splash about 4" high and a rolled front edge. Covered in a light brown or wood grained Formica or your choice of colors. Cut offs are available from Lowes or Home Depot for very low prices.

I have made several benches like this over the years but I usually make a welded square tube frame using 2 x 2 x 1/8 Square Tube.

The Formica Counter Tops have several things going for them. First being, they are easy to clean and just about nothing sticks to them. Formica is impervious to Acetone and Brake Cleaner or water based cleaners so you can clean it with out fear of ruining it. And the rolled edge on the Front comes in handy so stuff doesn't roll off the front.

Here's a pic of the one I made for my Wife's Jewelry Bench about 20 years ago. It has a 4' light on it an Electric Strip, Air and a Foredom Tool mounted and works really well and is rock solid. She hardly used it so I am commandeering it for my shop. I'm pissed the corner got knocked off but there isn't much I can do about it.

Randy