Newbie, Starting the Learning Curve, Sorta

[WilliamAgain]

To All Of You Out There:

First time for me so forgive any indiscretions as I attempt to slide into this site. I make mistakes but I try to learn from each and everyone. Thanks for having me.

My handle is WilliamAgain. I am 62. I have owned hunting firearms since I was a kid. My Dad reloaded all our rifle ammunition. I used to sit and watch him as a kid. I was fascinated by the process and chance to do anything with him. As is the natural order of things, I moved on and gave up hunting for the most part, but never any of the guns that I ever owned as a kid. Dad continued to hunt until he physically could no longer do it. Dad passed two years ago. When cleaning out his shop I came upon his old reloading equipment. Many fond memories returned and I moved it to my shop, in a corner, in the way. There it sat for the last two years.

I recently purchased a 9mm pistol. First pistol I ever owned. I have been practicing with it regularly. The more I go to the range, the more I enjoy it. As you can already probably assume, I am interested in picking up where my Dad left off with his reloading equipment. Part hobby, part curiosity, part natural extension of the new pistol, part financial, and a chance to rekindle Dad and understand what it was that he loved so much about it. I think I had to get this old to figure it out. Enough history.

This stuff is old. I have the original purchase receipts from 1956. As is always the case with the internet, there is conflicting information on the equipment. In general however it appears that it is still serviceable and worth refurbishing as well as using. That's what I need help with, so I came to the experts. I need to know if this equipment is functional, reliable and safe. If it is, I want to clean it up and refurbish it, but I WANT TO DO IT RIGHT.

Attached are pics of a Hollywood Press (Senior). Dad had dies and shell holders for my old hunting guns and primer punches for large and small caliber as well a .38 special die and shell holder, even though I never knew he had a .38 special. All this is original Hollywood. I have since learned the shell holder situation is unique on this machine and ordered the shell holder adapter from RCBS and purchased dies for my 9MM. I want to take this thing apart, clean it up good, lubricate it correctly and use it again. This is where I need your help.

Attached also are pics of a Lyman Powder Measure. Lyman is obviously still out there today. This one is dirty, but appears to just need to be cleaned up. How is that done correctly? Is it a safe, reliable, functional, tool as compared to today's equipment.

And then there is this other Lyman product that looks like it has never been used. A shaper?

Lastly is the Redding scale. It is so cool and zero's out perfectly.

OK, long thread. If you made it this far, I must have some promise. Can I refurbish this equipment and if so how? I am a pretty patient guy, with some skills, I just don't want to trash anything from ignorance before I get started. Thanks in advance. Be patient, I will respond, but as we all are, I am a busy guy. I just can't let this project lie around anymore. Life is moving on with or without me.238883238884238884238885238883238884

[KenT7021]

The item you called a shaper is a Lyman 45 lube sizer.It appears to almost new.The Lyman 55 powder measure looks ready to use.Operating instructions are available on Lymans website.An internet search should find a rough setting guide that used to come with the measures.The Lyman 55 is one of the better powder measures.The Redding powder scale appears to be in good shape.It looks like it may be the oil dampening type.It should probably be checked for accuracy with scale test weights or an item of known weight.

[BigAlofPa.]

Looks to be in good shape. I see no reason why you can not use it. Please get a reloading manual and read it. Lymans 50th is a very good one to start with. You will learn a lot of valuable information. And we are here to help you along the way. And welcome on board.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Welcome to the forum! Glad to see someone here and there taking an interest in one of the best hobbies in existence. Most of the "stuff" you've shown in your photos is still in use today by lots of folks. All good, sturdy designs that pass the test of time. It probably doesn't need any restoration, and much of it can be put right to use. The No.55 powder measure, for example, is still widely used, and is a classic. Excellent for throwing uniform loads, especially of Bullseye Powder, in small amounts for pistol cartridges. It should prove an invaluable tool for loading 9mm. I've got one on my reloading bench, and use it mainly for .38 Specials. I'm not too familiar with that model balance scale, although I have seen them, and don't know if it has magnetic dampening or not. If not, you can watch it waver up and down for what seems endlessly until it settles down and gives you the reading. That might be the one item that you could improve on with something new, but if it doesn't have magnetic dampening it's still usable. Just clean the piviot points of any dust/rust. The sizing/lubing machine may need to be cleaned out if there's some old, hardened lube in it, easily done with most solvents, and then insert a new lube stick. The Hollywood press -- what can I say. A real classic and antique, but appears to be just as functional as the day your dad bought it. Like all single stage presses it's pretty simple and straightforward. Just insert the proper shell holder in the ram, insert and adjust the proper die in the top, and off you go. You'll want to buy a set of carbide 9mm dies to avoid having to lube the cases. Get a good reloading manual or two. Many of them have a reloading instruction section that you should read before getting started. And....off you go!

[onelight]

Wow that looks like a great reloading outfit and appears to be in great shape. I bet your dad would be very pleased to know you are using his equipment.
Welcome to the forum.

[metricmonkeywrench]

Welcome to the addiction, 9mm, .38 30-30 and 30-06 are good forgiving training wheels calibers with lots of good loading data to get started with. Lyman, Lee and Hornady reloading manuals are easy to find and buy and RCBS also has a getting started video. The first chapters are a must read when getting started to understand how it all comes together and what else you will need to get.

The Lyman 45 indicates your dad may have also cast bullets as well, any moulds in the collection?

[country gent]

First buy a copy of the Lyman cast bullet handbook #4 and read thru the how to sections to refresh your memory. Clean up and lube the equipment to start with and get started. Restoration if desired can come later. Dies from that era are probably steel not carbide so cases will need to be lubed. 9mm isn't hard to load but can be "fussy" at times. Use good data and follow instructions. Test rounds in a gage or better plunk test them in the chamber. Take your time enjoy the nostalgia and get started. All the equipment shown seems to be in fine shape.
Welcome to the forum ask all the questions you need to and enjoy

[GhostHawk]

Don't feel like you have to learn it all in a day, a week, a month, or even a year.

Give it a decade, pace yourself. Set it up like any really big job. Narrow focus, pick one caliber, work on it till it works.

Bullet Fit is #1, all other variables fall into place AFTER that one.

Powder measure looks like it should work. My primary press is a lee hand press with the quick change bushings. Has been for 5 years, and I still prefer it for most work. Although I do have others setup and in use.

Scales can be calibrated. I don't totally trust electronic, at least not the cheaper ones. So it is good to have a good scale.

Start reading all the new posts once a day or so. And then start chewing through the sticky's.

Take your time, enjoy the journey, yell if you get stuck.
And WELCOME. Always good to see another cast boolit brother show up.

[kmw1954]

Welcome to the forum, you will soon find you are surrounded by enablers!

Wow, that is some nice stuff. Now all you need is an old shed and a potbelly stove with some antlers and skins and you could really retro! You inherited some real classic stuff that appears to be in excellent condition. Now get yourself a couple of recent manuals and get ready to rock. Thank you for sharing the pictures!

[Land Owner]

Alcohol is a good cleaning fluid for cutting old grease and oils. Wipe down the outsides on most of the equipment, use a little elbow grease on the others, and some light 000 steel wool for corrosion, though I see none of that in the pics.

Build a bench or take command of a table in the shop where these machines should be bolted down - giving sufficient room for each to work without interference from the others.

Download Mfg. manuals for your equipment. Most manuals are free and on line. Set up and use instructions should be read and understood.

What powder do you intend to load?
What bullet?
Got the right primers?

Got the powder or bullet Mfg's reloading manual? Much of this is on line.

Read...read...read...and ask questions. Visit YOUTUBE also.

Lyman Ideal #55 Powder Measure... http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/FIREARMS/lyman_blackpowdermeasure55.pdf

Ideall #45 Lubsizer… https://www.lymanproducts.com/media/user/file/i/d/ideal_45_lubesizer.pdf

Hollywood Senior Tool (press)… I had trouble with this one, but this Castboolits poster has them ALL http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?257624-Universal-Hollywood-Gun-Shop-Press-Timeline

Redding Powder and Bullet Scale...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bQQ1QJqqq8
I found no manual for this old scale. This YouTube link (~2 minutes in to ~8 minutes inclusive) is not so much a manual as someone working with this scale. I would not recommend using a crescent wrench nor working on the beam while it is in the cradles as the knife edges might be damaged.

[lefty o]

i absolutely agree with the others, get a few new manuals , and read them. the front part of every reloading manual tells you the how's, and why's of reloading. books will cover 85% of anything your going to run into.

[wv109323]

Your equipment is very usable. With ammo prices down ,it is hard to load 9mm and save money.
The press ,you just need clean like any metal object and add fresh lubricant on the moving parts. The powder measure I would disassemble and clean with alcohol. Do not use oil, run the pm dry.
The scales I would clean the pivot point of the beam with alcohol. You can find the exact weight of US coins to use for testing accuracy. Also jacketed bullets are very close to advertised weight.

[rbuck351]

That's all good equipment even by todays standards. Clean it up a bit and get a couple of manuals then ask about anything you don't understand. Lots of good folks here with answers to most any question about loading or casting. Good luck.

[Bent Ramrod]

Your Dad apparently took very good care of his tools. I don’t see any obvious problems with most of the Stuff pictured that would preclude setting up and using immediately. A wipe down of the Hollywood with a lightly oiled cloth and some oil on the pivots and sliding surfaces and you should be ready to set your dies and go. By all means, get a Lyman Handbook or two. There should be charts in there for approximate settings for powder charges on the 55 measure. Older Cast Bullet Handbooks will show you how to set up the Lyman 45 for boolit sizing&lubrication. Cornell Publications might have some reprints of these.

Your Lyman 45 sizer/lubricator seems to be unused, but missing the operating lever. If you can’t find that, there is a sticky on refurbishing 45s that includes making new operating levers. The H and I dies for sizing cast boolits are still available from Lyman and RCBS dies should also fit.

If your Hollywood Senior is missing the priming stakes, or even if it has them, a dedicated hand primer of the Lee or RCBS type will speed up the job.

[JBinMN]

Welcome to CB.GL Forum!
:)

This info & links may be helpful to you:

Lyman(Ideal) 45 lubesizer instructions can be found at this CB/GL post:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?371386-Lyman-45-manual&p=4507229&viewfull=1#post4507229

Instructions for the Lyman #55 Powder Measure:
https://www.lymanproducts.com/media/catalog/product/7/7/7767783_no._55_adjustible_powder_measure_english.p df

As far as the Hollywood Senior Press... From what I understand, there is no "instruction manual" for it. The Member/moderator here, "Pressman", likely has more info for you .
Here is a link to his Member Profile & you can contact him there if you like about the press:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?5491-Pressman

You can contact him by email or PM(Private Message) there at the link above.

Here is a link to PM him( It should work for you, but if not use the link above...):
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/private.php?do=newpm&u=5491

Well, Once again, Welcome!

& G'Luck! in your reloading adventures!
:)

[Willbird]

Welcome :-). The Lyman 55 is honestly one of my favorite powder measures. It does have a quirk you want to be aware of. If you loosen the proper screw you can pull the whole drum out one side. Once you have it out you will see you have two slides than can be moved with the thumbscrews on one end.

The smallest slide will be used for pistol stuff and other small charges, if you are not careful you can move the middle side out for a charge then have the small slide overhanging it, sticking out past flush, that is not a good setup to run. Pretty easily avoided if you just look down into the measure.

9mm with jacketed bullets should be no issue...pretty straightforward. For many things I like the LEE reloading dies, Lee opened the market for inexpensive carbide reloading dies, carbide dies used to be very expensive from RCBS and others...Lee came into the market at something like $29 as I recall for a set of dies with the carbide sizer. I am however not fond of Lee bullet seater dies, they are quite crude IMHO :-).

If I were going to buy a new die set non progressive I'd buy these right here........much better bullet seater die IMHO.

RCBS Carbide 3-Die Set with Taper Crimp

My favorite loading manual is Lyman, and I'd suggest grabbing their newest.

I really like Hodgdon powders....and I like their website for data...

I'd suggest for a new reloader to stay away from powders like Titegroup and Clays for right now, could write a book on why :-). I'd pick a powder that comes close to filing the cartridge, and ideally the one with highest velocity and lowest pressure :-).

I might suggest CFE pistol as a good place to start.

Now early into the game you can form some really good habits and continue them.

Arrange your powder shelf from "fast to slow"

https://www.hodgdon.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/burn-rate-color.pdf

If you were to confuse CFE Pistol with say 4895 you would blow a rifle to smithereens...it has been done more than once by veteran reloaders.

Only have ONE open can of powder on the bench and ideally only one can of powder on the bench period, the others should be shelved :-).

I far prefer one of these little priming press's to doing it ON the press, or with a handheld tool.

http://rcbs.com/Products/Priming/Tools/Automatic-Priming-Tool.aspx

I think they are a worthy investment. .

If you have a Cabelas or Basspro local they actually typically have a LOT of reloading stuff, worth dropping in. Buying 5,000 primers or 32 lbs or more of powder online will be cheaper but to get started grabbing a few primers, some powder, and a box of bullets at one of those two stores will get you going :-).

You have dies for 38 also you said, PERFECT excuse to buy a 357 revolver by the way :-), honestly revolver reloading is a less steep learning curve than semi auto IMHO.

The rifle stuff has it's own twists too, powder selection is part of the game, many will work but some are safer than others, bullet casting for rifle stuff and revolver stuff is maybe simpler than semi auto pistol stuff. The semi auto pistol stuff is not "hard" but it has some stricter demands, and 9mm especially can offer some challenges.

Bill

[15meter]

Might help if you post or list in your profile where you live. There may be a member who is nearby who could walk you through the first couple of times setting up the equipment. I have started multiple people reloading over the years. I wish I would have had the chance to watch someone use properly set up tools and an opportunity to just get the feel of using them.

Does it REALLY take that much effort to resize a 44 Mag case? But the 22 Hornet just slips in and falls out of the die--I must be doing something wrong!!!

[dverna]

If you intend to start with the 9mm, use commercial jacketed bullets. 9mm has been a challenge for some with lead bullets. If you ignore that advice and want to start with lead bullets, buy them sized to .357

Good luck and welcome.

[mdi]

Welcome to the wonderful, oft confusing and frustrating world of reloading. :wink:

For new (newer) reloaders I suggest a copy of The ABCs of Reloading. While there are others out there, the ABCs shows how to, equipment used, component explanations, and even a bit about bullet casting. Your equipment is first rate, good quality equipment (I've always wanted Hollywood press!), and a others stated above, get a good reloading manual, clean up the tools and you'll be ready to start.

A couple hints; for starting with 9mm, find a load (tried and true "classic") in your manual before you buy components, and I suggest a 124-125 gr. jacketed bullet, with a "universal" powder. Begin with book starting loads and, if necessary, work up. I use the "plunk test" for all my semi-auto handloads and start with bullet manufacturer's recommended OAL for the bullet I choose (I shoot a bunch of RMR 124 gr. JHP which are identical to Nosler's bullets so I use Nosler bullet data).

Also, my Rule #1, which I suggest to every reloader and especially new fellers is; I pay little attention (none) to any load data I see on any forum, from any range rat, gun counter clerk, good intentioned friend, pet loads website, or gun shop guru. I get 98% of my starting loads from published reloading manuals (forget the "one caliber" pamphlets as good reloading manuals have way more good info than just recipes), and just a few from powder manufacturer websites. I keep a log of every load (bullet, case, powder, powder charge [min and max], primer, OAL and crimp, and anything else that would refer to the load. In the "after shooting" notes I record best groups, shooting characteristics like recoil, muzzle blast, date shot, time of day and weather, etc.), and refer to that for subsequent loads, and I always include maximum load data.

I started reloading in '69 (with a Lee Loader) and using common sense and my Rule #1, I have had only one squib (1970) and no Kabooms or near Kabooms...

Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...:happy dance:

[WilliamAgain]

Gentlemen:

I replied last night but apparently I erred somehow and it did not take. My computer skills are admittedly weak.

Thank for the overwhelming and positive responses. It appears that I have serviceable safe reliable equipment that is still functional today. That is great news and feedback.

There was so much feedback that I cannot possibly list all the notes here that I have taken from this thread, but know that I have an extensive list from your collective output.

I will buy a manual and begin the educational process.

I have downloaded the manuals for the equipment and I am sure those will be invaluable. I will send pics of the bench set up when I am finished.

Can't thank you all enough for the "Welcome".

And yes I am an NRA member from Norther Colorado.

Lastly a couple more pics that were requested.238958238959238960

[lightman]

Welcome Aboard! And Welcome to the hobby of reloading and casting.

You can learn to reload by reading and asking questions. The guys on here are very knowledgable and some are very good at explaining things. Still, it would be easier if you had a mentor. Theres probably a member that lives near you or perhaps some older guy from the local gun store of shooting range would be willing to help.

You should easily be able to disassemble the tools to give them a cleaning. On the scale, just carefully lift the beam off of the cradle and wipe or brush away any dirt or grime. It looks like the scale is a type that uses a light oil in the reservoir to dappen the scale movements.

Give the rams on the press and sizer a light rubbing with 1200 grit emory cloth or 0000 steel wool. Mineral spirits should cut any oil or grime off of the painted surfaces. Steel wool should polish up the moving parts of the powder measure.

Any reloading dies can be cleaned in the same way you clean the barrels of your guns.

Sorry for the loss of your Dad. It looks like he was a serious reloader by the quality of his equipment. I hope you learn to use it and enjoy it.

[mdi]

Just re-looking at the Redding scale. Is it "oil dampened"? Is there a little "well" under the pivot and a small "paddle" attached to the beam that extends down into the well? I have a couple oil dampened scales and while they work quite well, they can be messy (I don't leave any tools out after use. I clean them up and store them. Filling the well and emptying it when done sometimes gets oily/messy. I use mineral oil in mine).

[ulav8r]

An oil damped scale works just fine without oil. Just need to learn how to operate it.

I use a dipper to put powder in the pan. Hold the pointer end of the beam up as you put the powder in the pan, this stops the wide swings. Release the beam gently to keep movment to a minimum and trickle to zero. If the pan does start to swing, a gentle touch can stop it and speed the process. It takes only a few seconds to dip, trickle and dump a load.

[EddieZoom]

Welcome to the wonderful, oft confusing and frustrating world of reloading. :wink:

For new (newer) reloaders I suggest a copy of The ABCs of Reloading. While there are others out there, the ABCs shows how to, equipment used, component explanations, and even a bit about bullet casting. Your equipment is first rate, good quality equipment (I've always wanted Hollywood press!), and a others stated above, get a good reloading manual, clean up the tools and you'll be ready to start.

A couple hints; for starting with 9mm, find a load (tried and true "classic") in your manual before you buy components, and I suggest a 124-125 gr. jacketed bullet, with a "universal" powder. Begin with book starting loads and, if necessary, work up. I use the "plunk test" for all my semi-auto handloads and start with bullet manufacturer's recommended OAL for the bullet I choose (I shoot a bunch of RMR 124 gr. JHP which are identical to Nosler's bullets so I use Nosler bullet data).

Also, my Rule #1, which I suggest to every reloader and especially new fellers is; I pay little attention (none) to any load data I see on any forum, from any range rat, gun counter clerk, good intentioned friend, pet loads website, or gun shop guru. I get 98% of my starting loads from published reloading manuals (forget the "one caliber" pamphlets as good reloading manuals have way more good info than just recipes), and just a few from powder manufacturer websites. I keep a log of every load (bullet, case, powder, powder charge [min and max], primer, OAL and crimp, and anything else that would refer to the load. In the "after shooting" notes I record best groups, shooting characteristics like recoil, muzzle blast, date shot, time of day and weather, etc.), and refer to that for subsequent loads, and I always include maximum load data.

I started reloading in '69 (with a Lee Loader) and using common sense and my Rule #1, I have had only one squib (1970) and no Kabooms or near Kabooms...

Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...:happy dance:

Great Advice.

[RED BEAR]

I think that is some nice equipment i would have no problem using it myself. You can get a free manual from alliant powder just call. I would suggest picking up several they are sorta cheap on ebay. Also there are no bad questions so feel free to ask . I have been reloading for over 40 years and i still learn new stuff. Welcome aboard and happy casting.

[15meter]

Before I would try using that vintage mold I would treat it like a new mold. Read up on CLEANING and prepping new molds. After sitting for a number of years it has probably acquired a patina that will make casting good boolits a challenge.

[mdi]

Regarding an oil dampened scale; some folks complain (loudly) about Lee scales taking forever to settle, but they are much faster than an oil dampened scale without oil. I have 2 OD scales (I can't pass up a bargain) and if using one dry and I can drop a charge, go have lunch, come back and the beam is just settling...

[44magLeo]

I can't add much to what has been said but Welcome to the club.
You may find the reloading won't save you much money because you will shoot more. Not a problem because shooting more is just that much more fun.
On manuals, I have many. I like the Lyman books because they give data on several brands of components. Brand name manuals give plenty of data on their stuff.
They all have important info in the front on many topics.
I like the way the Hornaday book explains the fit and function of cases in the firearm and several ways of reloading.
I like the Lee book because it has a lot of good load info. They don't shoot it themselves but buy it the manufactures. They have a very good section on Cast lead bullets and loads. Very informative for cast bullets.
I like to compare what each book has for load data. Doing this I can spot loads that seem a bit odd.
I find a lot of data on the web. I also compare this to the books.
I don't think you can have to many books. Lee, Lyman, Sierra, Hornady, Speer. I have several of each. dating from the early 70's.
On your equipment, it all looks great from here. just clean up, lube and use.
How many die sets that your father used do you have?
Leo

[Captain*Kirk]

Hope to hear more from you once you get set up. Go slow, read a lot, and ask questions before charging ahead and you'll do fine. Your gear appears to be in great shape, BTW!

[3006guns]

Welcome to the forum and the greatest hobby around. Your shooting costs will go down and the "curiosity bug" will bite you as you learn more and more.

So much information has already been given that I'll just add a couple of comments....

I'd suggest WD40 as a cleaning agent. It's not a very good oil for anything, but it cleans old crud very well. Spray, let soak, wipe off crud.

That Hollywood Senior press is outstanding. Accurate, dependable and (obviously) long lived. Get some 0000 steel or bronze wool and use WD40 to polish the cylindrical part. A smooth, oiled surface means less work. You may need an adapter so that it can use modern shell holders. Hopefully you can locate the priming stems, otherwise you'll need a separate priming tool.

I would consider a more up to date, magnetic dampened scale whenever you can afford it. I have several old Redding and Pacific scales like yours, and they take forever to settle down. A slight draft can cause them to oscillate for a LONG time, and maybe never settle. Go magnetic ASAP.

Your father had good taste in equipment. Many have started off with far less!

As mentioned, get a good, up to date manual and read it before anything else. Don't understand something? Ask here and you'll get answers from good folks who enjoy their hobby. Again, welcome!

[JeepHammer]

BUY OR DOWNLOAD RELOADING MANUALS!

Some folks go to 'YouTube' videos, but they leave a **** ton of stuff out while teaching bad habits...
Manuals won't steer you the wrong way.

Welcome to the sickness!

The Lube/Sizer is for making sure cast bullets are the correct diameter, are round (some older molds weren't quite round) and when you add lube, it lubes the grooves in lead bullets.
Most of us buy copper jacket bullets that don't need lubed, but plenty still cast bullets that do need lube.

The scale & powder thrower are pretty straight forward, play with them a little to figure out how they work.

I don't see a cleaner...
This is as simple as a jar with lid, some soap & hot water,
Or you can get a vibration type cleaner & dry media fairly inexpensive.
There are a bunch of cleaning methods & machines, but soap, water & a pickle jar will get you started.

Hint: No matter what you choose, soap & water clean the oily crud off and make your dry polish media last much longer, providing you want brand new looking, ultra shiny brass.

Practice throwing propellant (powder) loads with corn meal or cleaning media.
(No acids to attack your equipment...)
This will get you used to adjustments, the scale, etc.

From your father's/grandfather's time there is a trend towards crimped primers.
They didn't have to deal with this (unless they reloaded military brass), but a LOT of civilian brass has crimped primers.
Look this up so you recognize a crimped primers when you see it, and about every manufacturer makes a crimp removal tool of some kind.
The crimp only needs to be removed ONCE, so don't discount crimped brass for reloading, but it's not likely your gear has any crimp remover tools in it.

Read the reloading manuals,
Ask as many questions as you have, the only stupid question is the one you don't ask,
Practice the deprime (punch out old primer),
The resize of the brass,
Inserting the new primer (just called priming),
Charging (propellant 'Powder') the case,
And seating bullets, make a few 'Dummies' (no powder) to get the size/length (die adjustments) correct,
Then do a few test loads.

If you ask around at the local gun shops, you will probably find someone that can help locally.
If the guy starts telling you to buy some specific brand of equipment, find someone else...
The last thing you need learning is a 'Fan Boy'.

If you read the manuals, you will pretty quickly figure out if the guy knows what he is doing...
Try not to pick up bad habits,
Only ONE powder can on the bench at a time, mixing powders always sucks.
Keep powder covered! Primers CAN go off when you handle them, and you don't want a fire.

Get good safety glasses AND WEAR THEM!
I hang mine on the press so I have to remove them to do any loading...
I am the kind of guy that will forget otherwise.

Work on your process,
Inspection of brass at every step, remove cracks, chewed up rims, most dings & dents will resize, but kinks in the metal or mouth damage needs scrapped...

With a 'Universal' decapping die (primer punch) knock all the primers out of empty brass,
Clean all brass, and if necessary, dry them or get the dust off (rolling them around in an old towel works for me),

With a single press, set up for resize of all brass,
Some will need a further step of mouth flair,
Then prime your brass.

Once inspected as you go,
You will probably be ready to charge the case ('Powder'/Propellant),
And seat the bullet.
This will mean a LOT of charged cases, so get a loading block to keep organized (inexpensive).

Then back into the press with the bullet seater die, some of these do a crimp of the case on the bullet at the same time, which is why you make some 'Dummies' to learn how these dies work and get them set up correctly.

For Propellant charge weight, STICK TO THE MANUALS!
Published data ONLY!
Most manufacturers have websites that will give you this data for free,
And gun shops get flyers from manufacturers with new load data, pick these FREE flyers up!

I usually pick 3 sources and compare to avoid misprints, if two sources agree, it's correct data.

NEVER take some random internet person's word for charge data!
If it's not published, don't do it...

[tankgunner59]

First, welcome to the forum. Second, kudos on not just jumping in and making a mistake. You are at the best reloading forum IMHO and you will get all the info you need from the great people here. I have been reloading for years and I have gotten immeasurable help whenever I asked. +1 on getting a reloading manual, and I too suggest the Lyman's 50th Edition. Read the instructional section in the front and re-read it. I would also suggest later on getting another manual to compliment the first, there are many available, I have a total of six. There is one problem, your Dad was right it is a very enjoyable addiction, er, I mean hobby and the more you reload the more you will want to. :-D Enjoy and be safe.

[T_McD]

Best advice I can give is to pick your preferred learning medium (book, video, etc.) and jump in. I cringe when I think of my first reloads, but they worked fine.

It’s not rocket science and don’t let anyone convince you it’s complicated, cuz it’s not.