Stock finish on Browning 1895 repro?

[8mm]

I purchased a Browning 1895 repro over 10 years ago. I received a significant discount due to damage to the stocks caused by careless handling as a shelf display. I always thought it would be quite easy to chemically strip the old finish and then refinish. Wrong! The old finish seems to be impervious to commonly available stripping agents.

Out of frustration I called Browning customer service asking what they used to finish their stocks and more importantly how to remove the old finish. The answer from the CSA was that he didn't now what they used or how to strip it. He added that it is indeed a very tough finish and that he had a same problem in refinishing his personal firearm and finally had to resort to scraping, sanding, steaming, filling the pores, staining, then applying the finish.

I have no problem going through that process as I have done it before with satisfactory results. The problem is that there is very little "proud wood" on my stocks and would prefer using a stripping agent if there is one available so as to preserve my stock dimensions.

So I am asking experienced members here, what is the most powerful wood finish stripper available? Thank you.

[LIMPINGJ]

Send a PM to Ben, he may have some experience with the Brownings.

[WehrmannsGeweher]

Buy an aircraft grade stripper that is designed to remove epoxy finishes. It works on all those nasty synthetic finishes.

Here is one example. https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/removers-and-chemicals/aircraft-remover/

[8mm]

Thank you WG. That is just the info that I was looking for.

8mm

[M-Tecs]

On Browning's high gloss finishes they use polyurethane. Not sure on the 1895's. I am fortunate to have a dip tank that I use MEK for stripping epoxy and polyurethane. The above recommendation should work.

[uscra112]

I had to do one with that plastic finish. Used furniture scrapers rather than expose myself to that much MEK. Didn't take all that long, but you do need scrapers formed for internal curves. Worst part was around the checkering. Fussy work to keep from damaging the pattern.