Tru-line junior lyman

[NyFirefighter357]

Found an ad on Craigs list for a TRU-LINE JUNIOR LYMAN & MODEL 55 IDEAL POWDER MEASURE.
It happens to be in the area of my hunting property about an hr away. "The press moves freely, comes with whats pictured, dies and model 55 Ideal powder measure.(the measure doesn't move, it will need some work, or I might be just doing it wrong!)
On the dies, one says 450 and another 280, one is hollow and the other doesn’t have a #"
A sight search here came up with needing a conversion. What needs to be done? Is it worth buying? The dies are definitely rusty but the press looks like it's in good shape. I'm guessing the powder measure is seized do to rust.

[metricmonkeywrench]

LOL saw the same ad, I was considering having my brother, who works up the road, to pick it up but I have enough presses and powder measures for the moment.

They look pretty good in the pictures and I think they may be salvageable, but I don’t know enough about the 55 to know what the issues may be if the innards are rusted.

[Green Frog]

To make any kind of meaningful determination, the price being asked is an important piece of information. There’s not a whole lot that can go wrong with a TL Jr, although I’ve seen some that had been pretty badly abused. You do know there are two versions, a simple (straight bar) linkage and a slightly improved (Y-shaped bar) linkage, right?

As for the #55, unless it’s rusted solid, you probably can save it by disassembling, cleaning and polishing, and dry lubricating with powdered graphite. I’ve salvaged several that way.

Dies? The answer depends on what you want to load. The fact that in most cases you can substitute 310 tool dies means you have a lot of options available to you. Go up to the “Casting and Reloading Handtools” forum for lots of info on the 310 stuff.

As you can see, more info is needed to answer your question. With the limited amount you gave, I’d expect to pay maybe $25-40 max, assuming the dies would be a loss and the powder measure iffy. JMHO, YMMV.

Froggie

[44magLeo]

Just Guess here but the Tru-Line press uses two die sets for loading. The Die marked 280 is probably the size and expand die. Does it have a decapping rod in it? if so it has an expander button on it.
The one with the 450 on it is probably the seating die. It should also crimp. The 450 is on the seating stem indicating the nose profile it fits.
Just my 2 cents worth.
I just revived a 55 powder measure. Some PO removed or lost the set screw for the main slide. I figured this because it was brazed solid. It took a bit of work to get the slides out. Had to drill down through the braze to the slide. Once out cleaning up the braze was just a matter of filing and polishing.
Fixing the set screw was not hard to do either. Went to hardware store and found a set screw similar to what should be there and a tee nut that fit the set screw.
Cut the threaded part of the tee nut the same length as the thickness of where the set screw goes, Then cleaned everything well so the JB Weld could get a good grip. A bit of filing and polishing around the new set screw hole, bit of paint and looks like new.
Just need to replace the hopper, some one left powder in it and the powder discolored the hopper so you can't see the powder.
I have a Tru-Line JR press. A great little press. I use it a lot for hand guns and some rifle loading. The turret speeds things up a bit.
Leo

[NyFirefighter357]

https://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/clt/d/stanfordville-vintage-reloading-press/6834398807.html

[44magLeo]

That don't look to bad. There are four dies. In pic #6 it show a close up of the tope of the press showing the turret and dies.
The die in front over the shell holder is the expander die. The one to the right is the decapping die. The one at the rear is the seating die. The one on the left is the sizing die.
Those are a 310 set of dies. The numbers on the dies mentioned in the add are probably on the top of the seating and expander plugs. If so that make them 270 Win dies. I have a set on my Tru-line just like them. I also have 30-06 dies for the Tru-Line.
I don't think that's to bad a price. Even with the rust you see that doesn't mean the inside of the dies are bad.
The rust and the stuck powder measure might be point you can dicker the price a bit.
If you live close enough you might be able to get a better idea of condition by going and looking.
Leo

[Green Frog]

If the #55 will move, that is if it's not rusted and frozen in place, it gives a good boost to the value. The press itself is the older production with a bit less leverage. Depending on what you want to do with it, it should be OK. I'm assuming you will stick with a moderate amount of sizing... this press would definitely not be a good candidate for the update to take modern, large dies. If you want to load straight sided pistol rounds (32, 38, 44, and 45 families) it should do well for you. As I have often said, one of my TL Jr presses is set up more or less permanently for 32 S&W Long. It's like the press was designed for this little cartridge. ;) I wouldn't buy this or any TL Jr as my only loading press, but as a side press to do specialty stuff on, they are really neat and can be a lot of fun as well. :mrgreen:

Froggie

[WALLNUTT]

I clean and size my cases before finishing up on the TLJr. I leave it set up for loading 38 WC. They don't size too well,not much leverage. They are only a little faster than loading on a single stage what with all the turret twisting.

[Green Frog]

WALLNUTT, I use mine much the same way as far as pre-processing on a “big” press. Then I batch process the prepped cases... flare all case mouths, add powder to all, seat bullets and crimp all. That goes a lot faster than twisting the turret to completely process one shell at a time. BTW, I normally prime my cases off press too, so that’s another difference. I guess we each have to just find the strategy that works for us! ;)

Froggie

[Wayne Smith]

Strangely enough I like priming on my TLjr. I have one set up for 38Special and one that switches between 32S&W and 32-20.

[country gent]

The lymann 55 measure is a rotary measure. Most have a brass bushing around the rotor in the housing and 2-3 slides to adjust powder amount. If rusted up to bad the issues might be that the slides are sloppy allowing fine powders in the added clearances, and getting consistent adjustments from them. As far as the rotor and hopper if froze up remove the handle lock screws and washer. block up on a piece of pipe and push out with a small arbor press to get started. I have rebuilt a couple of these over the years for friends and they are very straight forward to do. One had sloppy sides from an attempt to wire brush it clean. On this one I removed some more stock and used Devcon plastic steel to rebuild it to size ( basically bedded it to match) a little light polishing and it was a nice sliding fit. Work slow and careful, remove as little material as possible. Here 3 M scratch pads are your friend and will remove the rust and build ups with little metal removal. Be careful with the brass insert its thin and has a cut in it can be bent or sprung easily.

[onelight]

I would soak her down good with PB-Blaster befor trying to get it apart.

[44magLeo]

If you get those items and get the measure to work, I think you'll like it. I do mine, all three.
The way the slides work you can easily adjust each slide by itself. The biggest slide to get close, the second to get very close, the third to get exact. Once set and locked it won't change. If you write down the slide markings you can return to the setting pretty close, then a bit of fine tuning with the smallest slide.
One thing I have done is to install homemade powder baffle in each measure. I use a variety of OTC and prescription medicines. So I have quite an assortment of empty bottles. Find one that is a snug slip fit in the hopper. Cut the bottle off about an inch high. Drill a couple 1/4" holes in the bottom. One on each side out near the edge. Drop into hopper open end down. Works the charm.
Leo

[ascast]

The 55 drum is mostly brass so any rust is on the ends caps. Be very gentle when loosening it up as the casting (handle) might break and then your in for repairs etc. Soak it is PB as suggested. Do not hurry. That is an OK price if all working and you want/need one. I use one of mine for BPCR stuff, never full sizing.

[BZimm]

I just bought a tru-line jr at auction last week. It has the newer linkage style and I'm real happy to have it. Paid 40 bucks with some odd caliber rifle dies I'll likely never use. The Lyman 55 is a great powder measure and I pick them up whenever I can. I'd pay 50 for that pair you've pictured all day long.

Now, not to hijack this thread, but I do need a handle for my new tru-line. Anybody have one laying around? I'd like an original if I can find one.

[Wayne Smith]

I made a handle with a piece of round stock steel from the hardware store and turned a wooden handle for one of mine.

[mdi]

I'd want to see the condition of the main shaft. Surface rust would be OK, but if it had deep pitted rust, that would be a deal breaker for me. All the other parts look to be cleanable. I'd give $50.00 for "kit"...

[NyFirefighter357]

I'm thinking because I can't find a conversion plate to standard dies and don't want to start collecting 310 dies. I may let it pass

[Green Frog]

I'm thinking because I can't find a conversion plate to standard dies and don't want to start collecting 310 dies. I may let it pass

Folks who already have 310 tools and dies on hand and folks who want a small, specialized press for a specific use are good candidates to acquire one (or more) TL Jr presses, or if somebody already has one they can probably find an excuse to keep it and have some sort of dedicated set up based around it. Anybody else, probably not so much.

Of course there has been one on my bench for over 40 years, so I guess I’m committed to the system. It is definitely a personal thing! ;)

Froggie

PS I would not buy one to convert it to modern dies... there are enough newer,relatively compact presses out there to make this inefficient.

[BZimm]

Thanks Wayne.

I've never been up close to one of these, so before I made my own I am checking to see if there is anything unique about an original handle and grip. I'm probably over-thinking this. :neutral:

I'll look around for some pics of an original. Thanks again.

[Wayne Smith]

I think it was 1/2" cold rolled steel rod from the hardware store. Nothing fancy. I didn't grind enough of a place for the screw head holding it in to lock - need to remedy that. I just loaded 100 rds 38 Special on one of mine. The one with the homemade handle, that's how I found out how easily it comes off!

[Green Frog]

Friend Wayne nailed it... I'm going to opine that the original rod was cold rolled, but then again, around here, I'd go to Tractor supply and buy a piece of the steel drill rod they sell in the proper diameter, then get a ball to fit to the outboard end and start reloading. The phrase, "It isn't rocket science" comes to mind.

Froggie

[Pressman]

Wayne, did you ever get that old box of parts I sent yu some time back turned into a usable press?

Ken

[Wayne Smith]

I got one press out of the remains. The box was soaked and pieces falling out of it when I got it, and I think half of what you put in was gone. I did get a press put together with the standard die turrent I had. (half the holes useless, don't index to the shell holder - I found that interesting. I wonder if the eBay guy actually had a press?)

I am missing the bottom casting and turrent (If I remember right) to put another one together.

[kywoodwrkr]

Friend Wayne nailed it... I'm going to opine that the original rod was cold rolled, but then again, around here, I'd go to Tractor supply and buy a piece of the steel drill rod they sell in the proper diameter, then get a ball to fit to the outboard end and start reloading. The phrase, "It isn't rocket science" comes to mind.

Froggie

I'm currently assembling components for a couple handles myself.
Steel stock on original came in at 7/16"(.4375) diameter.
One of my handles has a groove for the set screw to home in on, others are just smooth.
Bought bag of six wooden ball knobs from Hobby Lobby 1 3/4" diameter with a 3/16 hole started. #165845
Put a 3/16 drill in drill press aligned ball knob between two pieces of 2x4 with a 1" hole started in each 2x4 to hold the knob.
Replaced drill with 7/16 drill, drilling a correct size hole-aligned correctly for most part.
Roughed up end of rod going into knob and applied wood friendly epoxy.
Will probably use urethane finish on wood.
Should have mentioned mini pool balls(1.5") are available on various auctions or websites. Resin(?) material. 1 1/2 is factory size-just black.

[Green Frog]

Should have expected kyWOODwrkr to find a way to use a big wooden ball! Sounds classy to me. :mrgreen:

Froggie