How could I clean a shotgun with engravings and damascus barrels? 11 gauge?

[Kev18]

Well.... the title says it all. This isnt a casting question but its the shotgun section. How do I polish/clean the shotgun receiver with all the engravings? I dont want to damage the engravings or buff them out. Im not sure if steel wool will work? And what products would be best?

Also i know there isnt any 11 gauge shells anymore. So 12 gauge will do for this shotgun. I dont think there is away to make 11 gauge shells without making them completely from scratch. Im hoping the 12 will swell up in the chamber.

Shotgun in question is a WC scott, special grade SxS, damascus barrels, 11gauge fully engraved. Just bought it at a gun show today.

[Walks]

Spray it down well with Ballistol/Kroil, let it sit for a few days. Then take 0000 steel wool soaked in a good gun oil, take about a 3/4" ball, soaked in oil. Rub gently in a circular motion. You're trying to lift off the rust and nothing else. Patience is a virtue.

[Kev18]

Spray it down well with Ballistol/Kroil, let it sit for a few days. Then take 0000 steel wool soaked in a good gun oil, take about a 3/4" ball, soaked in oil. Rub gently in a circular motion. You're trying to lift off the rust and nothing else. Patience is a virtue.

Im trying to rub it down with steel wool and rem oil now but its barely doing anything.

[merlin101]

How about a sonic cleaner? I don't have one but just put a very dirty and neglected 12 ga. receiver in a pot of boiling water and watched the dirt and old oil and crud float to the surface, a sonic cleaner would've worked better I think.
As far as 11 ga. can you make or have some one make two chamber adapters from 11 to 12 ga.?

[RED BEAR]

You might try a small brass brush from hardware or auto parts store with kerosene

[Snow ninja]

Remember to be careful with modern loads and Damascus barrels. Pretty much universally frowned upon, so do so at your own risk. At the very least, use the lightest loads you can.

[country gent]

If you have insert made maybe have 20 ga liners made. more thickness and less pressure for old barrels to support.

[bikerbeans]

Rocky Mountain Catridge should be able to make 11ga all brass hulls. They made 18ga hulls for a friend's scatter gun.

BB

[6pt-sika]

In situations like this I use 000 or 0000 steel wool and Hoppes to clean rust and grunge off the barrels and receivers of shotguns . I have a sonic cleaner available to me but it isn’t large enough for the barrels . Only down side to the sonic cleaner is needing to take the action apart before cleaning . So then after coming out so all parts can be rinsed with distilled water then addressed with some sort of light oil so no rusting occurs .

[6pt-sika]

There’s a video on YouTube of Larry Potterfield making 11 gauge brass hulls for a hammer Parker .

[6pt-sika]

I’ve got three W&C Scott hammerless guns two in great shape and one that had hard use . The hard use gun is a circa 1881 10 gauge the other two are pre 1899 12 and 20 . The thing is ALL those guns regardless of how much use they had are going to show some metal discoloration or corrosion now I mean they’re all atleast 125 years old now . I don’t want them rusting but I don’t want them over cleaned and tried to be made to look like they left the factory last Tuesday .

[Kev18]

Remember to be careful with modern loads and Damascus barrels. Pretty much universally frowned upon, so do so at your own risk. At the very least, use the lightest loads you can.

Definitely only using BP :)

[Kev18]

There’s a video on YouTube of Larry Potterfield making 11 gauge brass hulls for a hammer Parker .

Yes and its the only video about an 11 gauge. Sadly I have no lathe or equipment to do that, or the knowledge... :(

[Kev18]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQNDD0xsJq4

Here the video I made show casing the gun. The barrels look abit browned and there is light rust marks. I was wondering how to remove those.

[Kev18]

Also, people have mentioned inserts which I never thought of. Would they interfere with the extractors/ shell lifters? I would consider that option seriously.

[Walks]

You need to soak for several days first.

The quad 0 steel wool with oil takes a Looong time, but with patience will remove only the rust.

If you have no patience, use a ****ed belt sander.

[6pt-sika]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQNDD0xsJq4

Here the video I made show casing the gun. The barrels look abit browned and there is light rust marks. I was wondering how to remove those.

I watched your video . I didn’t see anything that required any heavy duty rust removal . If that gun were mine I’d use my usual clean up process EXTERNALLY only . Well I might take the locks off as well blow them out light lubrication put it back together and leave it alone until I had some low pressure shells . I shoot ALOT of Damascus and twist guns , I also only shoot smokeless loads that are low pressure . Some folks might not agree with that and it’s their prerogative .

[Kev18]

I watched your video . I didn’t see anything that required any heavy duty rust removal . If that gun were mine I’d use my usual clean up process EXTERNALLY only . Well I might take the locks off as well blow them out light lubrication put it back together and leave it alone until I had some low pressure shells . I shoot ALOT of Damascus and twist guns , I also only shoot smokeless loads that are low pressure . Some folks might not agree with that and it’s their prerogative .

Il probably stick to BP even tho I hate cleaning the **** residue it leaves behind. If I take the locks off is there any pieces that will fall off or springs that will fly everywhere? Or is it just all one piece?

[6pt-sika]

Il probably stick to BP even tho I hate cleaning the **** residue it leaves behind. If I take the locks off is there any pieces that will fall off or springs that will fly everywhere? Or is it just all one piece?
Actually you’re probably better off not removing the locks if you’ve not done it before .

[merlin101]

Actually you’re probably better off not removing the locks if you’ve not done it before .

I second that!!

[Longknife]

Well.... the title says it all. This isnt a casting question but its the shotgun section. How do I polish/clean the shotgun receiver with all the engravings? I dont want to damage the engravings or buff them out. Im not sure if steel wool will work? And what products would be best?

Also i know there isnt any 11 gauge shells anymore. So 12 gauge will do for this shotgun. I dont think there is away to make 11 gauge shells without making them completely from scratch. Im hoping the 12 will swell up in the chamber.

Shotgun in question is a WC scott, special grade SxS, damascus barrels, 11gauge fully engraved. Just bought it at a gun show today.
Kev, PLEASE do not try to clean this shotgun. Any "cleaning" will greatly de-value it. Just oil the exposed metal surfaces and let it be. I have seen many old shotguns ruined by cleaning. Also do not try to shoot it with some type of jury-rigged shell set-up. You never did mention the condition of the chambers and bores. Are they clean or pitted?
I see you are in Canada. I can refer you to a couple of Gunsmiths in Canada that can advise you of how to proceed, PM me for info,,,,ED

[Kev18]

Kev, PLEASE do not try to clean this shotgun. Any "cleaning" will greatly de-value it. Just oil the exposed metal surfaces and let it be. I have seen many old shotguns ruined by cleaning. Also do not try to shoot it with some type of jury-rigged shell set-up. You never did mention the condition of the chambers and bores. Are they clean or pitted?
I see you are in Canada. I can refer you to a couple of Gunsmiths in Canada that can advise you of how to proceed, PM me for info,,,,ED

Its fine, the chambers are clean. Almost new. I would say the whole gun is about 80%-90% original condition. Looks really nice.

[Kev18]

If anyone is wondering about the shells. I fixed my problem. I went to a machine shop and im getting two 12 gauge adapters made. Which will also greatly decrease the pressure in the chambers.

[megasupermagnum]

There you go. Guys pay big bucks nowadays for "back bored barrels". Stick to plastic wads, and you will never know the difference. I've shot black powder with plastic wads, and plastic hulls. It's not as big a deal as some make it out to be.

[Longknife]

Kev, I have been loading BP in shot shells for quite a few years. You can use plastic shells but they will "deform" from the BP flame so I only use them once. I pick mine up free at the local trap range. Cut off the crimp and load like a ML shotgun, powder , cushion wad, shot and card wad. I would not use plastic wads though just because of the possibility of them melting with the black powder flame. Track of the Wolf has the wads you will need. If you are shooting plastic shells you will need the 12 gauge wads. Brass shells are thinner so the ID is bigger and you will need 10 gauge. You will need the B and C wads only. As a rule of thumb start with "square" loads, that is equal amounts of powder and shot. A 75 grain charge of FF is a good place to start...Good luck, it IS fun!!!!!!!!!!!

[WehrmannsGeweher]

Its a side lock gun so taking out the locks is easy. Remove the screw holding them in and lift out from the back.
Best way to clean is ultrasonic.
There are plenty of safe smokeless loads for twist steel barrels that are not pitted. In fact, a safer pressure curve than black.
The simple solution is 20 ga inserts, I use them in 10 and 12 ga damascus guns and they pattern well.
Nice old shotgun.

[Boolit_Head]

If anyone is wondering about the shells. I fixed my problem. I went to a machine shop and im getting two 12 gauge adapters made. Which will also greatly decrease the pressure in the chambers.

A lot of those shell adapter type converters don't do well since right after the chamber there is little to no barrel. Briley's in Houston can make up full length tubes that fit via a O ring to chamber most any shotgun gauge you might like to shoot in it. Tubes to shoot .410 28 and 20 gauge in 12 gauges are in use all over the Skeet circuit with very good results. I'd at least give them a call and have a chat with them They are some of the preeminent shotgun smiths around.

[Kev18]

There you go. Guys pay big bucks nowadays for "back bored barrels". Stick to plastic wads, and you will never know the difference. I've shot black powder with plastic wads, and plastic hulls. It's not as big a deal as some make it out to be.

I have shot bp with plastic hulls before I got the Brass ones. The hulls melt a bit but I throw them out after. Doesnt really bother me. :)

[Kev18]

Its a side lock gun so taking out the locks is easy. Remove the screw holding them in and lift out from the back.
Best way to clean is ultrasonic.
There are plenty of safe smokeless loads for twist steel barrels that are not pitted. In fact, a safer pressure curve than black.
The simple solution is 20 ga inserts, I use them in 10 and 12 ga damascus guns and they pattern well.
Nice old shotgun.

Il adventure in that area after I shoot it a few times with BP. Im looking for low pressure loads now for my 1887 WIN. I only shot that one with BP as well.

[Kev18]

A lot of those shell adapter type converters don't do well since right after the chamber there is little to no barrel. Briley's in Houston can make up full length tubes that fit via a O ring to chamber most any shotgun gauge you might like to shoot in it. Tubes to shoot .410 28 and 20 gauge in 12 gauges are in use all over the Skeet circuit with very good results. I'd at least give them a call and have a chat with them They are some of the preeminent shotgun smiths around.

Im not sure if it will make a huge difference. They will be low pressure loads to. You mean to say the steel thins out after the chambers?

[Boolit_Head]

No the wad won't touch the sides of the barrel and cause poor patterns if they could be called patterns. There would be little to no gas seal.

[Longknife]

Kev, To much clearance of the wad might be a problem, the inside of a plastic shot shell is about .735-.740. the 12 gauge cushion wads are .740 and just may expand enough under pressure to seal in your .750--11 bore dunno, you just need to try it
I know every one is suggesting Briley inserts and they are expensive!!!! ($700) And you would then be shooting a little 20 bore, what fun is that??? RMC sells 10 and 12 gauge brass at about 10 bucks a pop, ($200 for 20) maybe a little more to make some special 11 bore, thats gonna be much cheaper and you still have an 11 bore,,,,BUT if you get some 12 gauge brass to shoot in you adapters, the ID of that brass is .780 and uses 10 gauge wads. Now you're back to shooting an 11 bore, and the 10 gauge wads, that will seal perfectly!!!!!!!! Magtech 12 gauge brass is $25.00 for a box of 25,,, what are the adapters being made of? brass or steel? are they a slip fit or will they be pressed in?? .....and NO SMOKELESS!!!!!....Ed

[Kev18]

No the wad won't touch the sides of the barrel and cause poor patterns if they could be called patterns. There would be little to no gas seal.

Oh, I see. People get adapters for smaller gauges tho and they seem to do well atleast...?

[Kev18]

Kev, To much clearance of the wad might be a problem, the inside of a plastic shot shell is about .735-.740. the 12 gauge cushion wads are .740 and just may expand enough under pressure to seal in your .750--11 bore dunno, you just need to try it
I know every one is suggesting Briley inserts and they are expensive!!!! ($700) And you would then be shooting a little 20 bore, what fun is that??? RMC sells 10 and 12 gauge brass at about 10 bucks a pop, ($200 for 20) maybe a little more to make some special 11 bore, thats gonna be much cheaper and you still have an 11 bore,,,,BUT if you get some 12 gauge brass to shoot in you adapters, the ID of that brass is .780 and uses 10 gauge wads. Now you're back to shooting an 11 bore, and the 10 gauge wads, that will seal perfectly!!!!!!!! Magtech 12 gauge brass is $25.00 for a box of 25,,, what are the adapters being made of? brass or steel? are they a slip fit or will they be pressed in?? .....and NO SMOKELESS!!!!!....Ed

Those full barrel adapters are to expensive for me. Im paying 50$ per adapter. The guy kept my barrel, to make sure it fits perfectly and he took all the measurements when I was there. My dad's known him for a while. He works really well and has great quality machinery. His brother won the lottery a few years ago and bought him a whole machine shop with all new tools. You should see the lathe...

He's going to be making them out of steel. I told him to make a cutout so that the extractors could lift up the shells. And they should just drop in the bore, not pressed in.
Im also using the magtech brass, so il use the big 10 gauge wads like you mentioned.

[Boolit_Head]

Oh, I see. People get adapters for smaller gauges tho and they seem to do well atleast...?

Well it goes bang and the pellets exit the barrel. I'm not quite sure you could call the performance good.

[KCSO]

There is no particular issue with removing the lock. Clean around them and then take out the screw on the middle of the right lock. Back it just about all the way and TAP it gently and the lock on the off side should just pop loose. Take the screw all the way out and then from the other side using a light dowell tap out the other lock. If you don't remover and clean the locks you have no idea what gunk and grit may be jamming up the works. Dried grease or oil alone will be enough to keep the sears from seating properly in the tumbler notches.

[6pt-sika]

Well it goes bang and the pellets exit the barrel. I'm not quite sure you could call the performance good.

Wow it musta been a frickin miracle when I used the little Briley 6 inch long 410 tubes in a 12 gauge and broke 90+ out of a 100 . Or when I used the Briley 3” long 20 gauge tubes in the same 12 gauge and broke 98 out of 100 . MIRACLES NEVER CEASE

[Boolit_Head]

Those are not the usual chamber adapters that end at the end of the chamber. 6 inches of barrel is not the same as no barrel.

[6pt-sika]

Those are not the usual chamber adapters that end at the end of the chamber. 6 inches of barrel is not the same as no barrel.

Actually there’s very little difference . I’ve used gauge mates and shot acceptable scores as well . I prefer full length FITTED Kolar tubes over the rubber o ring things Briley makes . But then I like all Kolar insert tubes over the Briley tubes . But as to your opinion that gauge mates don’t work you’re wrong . Not just my opinion but that of many others as well or maybe it was just miracles for the thirty to forty people I know that use them from time to time .

[megasupermagnum]

Unless I'm missing something 6pt-sika, I'm seeing a gauge mate as a chamber adapter plus 1" of barrel. If that's your idea of good performance, you may as well have been shooting a pellet gun.

[Kev18]

There is no particular issue with removing the lock. Clean around them and then take out the screw on the middle of the right lock. Back it just about all the way and TAP it gently and the lock on the off side should just pop loose. Take the screw all the way out and then from the other side using a light dowell tap out the other lock. If you don't remover and clean the locks you have no idea what gunk and grit may be jamming up the works. Dried grease or oil alone will be enough to keep the sears from seating properly in the tumbler notches.

Alright il give it a shot. Everything seems to work really nice though. They were field guns but everything works and clicks into place nicely.

[6pt-sika]

Unless I'm missing something 6pt-sika, I'm seeing a gauge mate as a chamber adapter plus 1" of barrel. If that's your idea of good performance, you may as well have been shooting a pellet gun.
That’s the way gage mates are . And yes I and many others have gotten good performance from them on the skeet field and sporting clays course . I mean if you break the target flying thru the air I’d call that acceptable performance .

[megasupermagnum]

A shotgun, no choke, with a 1" barrel. I don't doubt you hit your clay target, but I don't even need to see a pattern to know that it is not acceptable performance. It won't have squat for velocity or pattern. I don't mean this to pick on you, but don't sit there and tell us that chamber adapter is anything but what it is.

[6pt-sika]

A shotgun, no choke, with a 1" barrel. I don't doubt you hit your clay target, but I don't even need to see a pattern to know that it is not acceptable performance. It won't have squat for velocity or pattern. I don't mean this to pick on you, but don't sit there and tell us that chamber adapter is anything but what it is. I suggest you try them yourself . I don’t shoot patterns I shoot targets flying thru the air . I’m sorry your mind can’t grasp the idea . To be honest I was a bit skeptical the first time I tried them and was quite pleased with the result . There is NO difference between the gauge mates and the shorty Briley tubes . I think the longest Briley shorty tube is maybe 6” for the 410 and considerably less for the 20 and 28 . I cannot fathom how you would think the inch or two more from the Briley shorty tubes would make a big difference over the gauge mates . But I don’t really care ! I told you my experience and many other folks I know .

[megasupermagnum]

I don't think Briley shorty tubes are better, I couldn't even care. In the OP's case, it's a perfect fix, as he can make ammo perfect for his barrel. I can get on board with full sleeves too, but a 1" chamber adapter, no way. I don't need to spend the money on those to know they are junk. You shoot a frail clay target. Of course you haven't patterned it, because you know as well as I do that those adapters are embarrassing.

I never meant this as an insult, but I see this problem a lot in the shooting sports, especially IDPA. Guys get so caught up in their game, that they forget there is more to the real world. Does a guy who shoots steel targets at 0-20 yards give a rats behind if their gun is accurate beyond that? No, you could give Jerry Miculek a handgun with a smooth bore and ammo loaded with round balls, and he would never know the difference. Does that mean that a smooth bore and round ball handgun is effective for anything other than that? Maybe paper punching. It's certainly not effective compared to a rifled barrel.


You shooting clays, your idea of "effective" is if it breaks a clay disk at short range, and you may be right. What are you getting out of those, 600 fps? It isn't much, and it won't be effective on anything but frail targets at close range. There's a lot of things you need to try and see when it comes to shooting. This isn't one, anyone can tell a 1" barrel is not effective.

[6pt-sika]

I don't think Briley shorty tubes are better, I couldn't even care. In the OP's case, it's a perfect fix, as he can make ammo perfect for his barrel. I can get on board with full sleeves too, but a 1" chamber adapter, no way. I don't need to spend the money on those to know they are junk. You shoot a frail clay target. Of course you haven't patterned it, because you know as well as I do that those adapters are embarrassing.

I never meant this as an insult, but I see this problem a lot in the shooting sports, especially IDPA. Guys get so caught up in their game, that they forget there is more to the real world. Does a guy who shoots steel targets at 0-20 yards give a rats behind if their gun is accurate beyond that? No, you could give Jerry Miculek a handgun with a smooth bore and ammo loaded with round balls, and he would never know the difference. Does that mean that a smooth bore and round ball handgun is effective for anything other than that? Maybe paper punching. It's certainly not effective compared to a rifled barrel.


You shooting clays, your idea of "effective" is if it breaks a clay disk at short range, and you may be right. What are you getting out of those, 600 fps? It isn't much, and it won't be effective on anything but frail targets at close range. There's a lot of things you need to try and see when it comes to shooting. This isn't one, anyone can tell a 1" barrel is not effective.

In the first place if you break targets you don't need to pattern the gun . I NEVER EVER patterned a 410 be it an actual 410 shotgun , a 12 gauge with Kolar tubes or a 12 gauge with guage mates or shorty Brileys . Quite frankly good 410 shot patterns do not help to build a new shooters confidence . I do not see in the least how they are embarrassing if they do the job .

As to someone getting "caught up and forgetting" perhaps you should heed your own words .

The velocity of those shots isn't going to be down in the 600 range , hold points and leads don't change between full length tubes or barrels and the gauge mates . As to actual velocity I can't honestly say but I would assume it might loose 100 - 150 FPS . You missed something else , I have several good friends that use the gauge mates on the Sporting Clays course and shoot very good scores myself included , in your infinite wisdom I am SURE you're well aware most sporting clays courses stretch the targets out pretty well so a 40-60 yard target is not rare anymore .

Oh yeah just so you know I do not compete at the shotgun games any longer I do still shoot them from time to time on a semi regular basis so don't think I'm as you said "caught up in their game" .

[megasupermagnum]

You are not knocking anything down consistently at 40-60 yards with a 1" barrel .410. How much money do you want to bet, and where do I need to meet you? Now I do mean to be a little insulting, as you are just being ridiculous. I know what a Taurus Judge does, and it's effective to about 10 feet. You clearly haven't a clue, because I will lay money you are loosing a lot more than 150 fps verses a standard 26" barrel. A Taurus Judge with a longer barrel runs about 650 fps.

[6pt-sika]

You are not knocking anything down consistently at 40-60 yards with a 1" barrel .410. How much money do you want to bet, and where do I need to meet you? Now I do mean to be a little insulting, as you are just being ridiculous. I know what a Taurus Judge does, and it's effective to about 10 feet. You clearly haven't a clue, because I will lay money you are loosing a lot more than 150 fps verses a standard 26" barrel. A Taurus Judge with a longer barrel runs about 650 fps.
I never said a 410 at sporting generally they’re using gauge mates in 16 or 20 . Actually I have more then a clue about velocity loss in a rifle and generally it’s about 30-35 FPS an inch . In a shotgun it doesn’t seem to be the same . On the skeet field the hold points Nd the break points pretty much stay the same if you were loosing down as much as you assume the break points would be a noticeable difference. Bring the bank to Virginia with you and be prepared to go home as if you went to Las Vegas BROKE that is ;)

[megasupermagnum]

I'm not assuming! I have personally shot a 2" barrel Taurus Judge over a chronograph, and got about 650 fps with 2 1/2" .410 target ammo. You have never patterned your gun with those adapters, you have never chronographed your gun with those adapters. You are wrong, just quit telling people how great 1" long barrels are.

[Kev18]

Off topic about what everyone is arguing about but I was wondering if it was better to shoot jsut lead in all my oldies. Because I have made up shells before for newer shotguns I have with the steel bb's that are covered with copper. Does the copper coating make them any better to shoot or should I just stick to lead?

I would like small shot but I dont have a shot dripper and lead shot is 75$ for a bag of 20 pounds. So I bought a mold for #4 buckshot from lee and that seems to work great but I would still like small shot.

[megasupermagnum]

Absolutely do not shoot steel shot in that old gun. No coating helps. Bismuth, and some other soft options are ok at $15-50 per pound, but it's easiest just to stick to lead. The cost of lead shot is out of control, sometimes you can find better deals. Oddly, it's been cheaper recently for me to order it online and pay shipping. Lots of stores around me still want $55 USD per bag. They don't sell well.

[Longknife]

[QUOTE=Kev18;4599943]Alright il give it a shot. Everything seems to work really nice though. They were field guns but everything works and clicks into place nicely.[/QUOT

Kev, not sure about your gun but some makers have a bevel or hook on the front part of the lock to secure it in the action,,,be careful,,,easy does it, biggest problem might be taking a chip out of the wood. After removing clean it gently with a soft brush and kerosene or equivalent, blow it dry and lube it with some good gun oil. Make sue some oil gets to where the tumbler shaft goes through the plate. Also apply some good grease with a tooth pick where the sear engages the tumbler notches. It really easy once you do one...Ed

[Longknife]

COOL, Sounds like you got it figured out, do you have one of those old fashioned wad funnels?,,,,usually find them on e-bay..Ed

[Kev18]

COOL, Sounds like you got it figured out, do you have one of those old fashioned wad funnels?,,,,usually find them on e-bay..Ed

No I dont have one, would be nice tho. I use the original priming tool and the shot/powder dipper. Im pretty sure it drops abit more powder then I need. So I just scoop the BP on to a scale like normal powder.

[Kev18]

Absolutely do not shoot steel shot in that old gun. No coating helps. Bismuth, and some other soft options are ok at $15-50 per pound, but it's easiest just to stick to lead. The cost of lead shot is out of control, sometimes you can find better deals. Oddly, it's been cheaper recently for me to order it online and pay shipping. Lots of stores around me still want $55 USD per bag. They don't sell well.

I dont have any experience with other materials other then lead and bb steel shot. I saw bismuth on old boxes at gun shows but thats about it. DO they sell bags of those?

[Apocalypse]

People sure do invest a lot of energy/time/effort in arguing about things they "don't care about" around here. :-P

[6pt-sika]

I'm not assuming! I have personally shot a 2" barrel Taurus Judge over a chronograph, and got about 650 fps with 2 1/2" .410 target ammo. You have never patterned your gun with those adapters, you have never chronographed your gun with those adapters. You are wrong, just quit telling people how great 1" long barrels are.
For my use and or needs I’m not wrong . For your over inflated ego the entire world is wrong .

[6pt-sika]

Off topic about what everyone is arguing about but I was wondering if it was better to shoot jsut lead in all my oldies. Because I have made up shells before for newer shotguns I have with the steel bb's that are covered with copper. Does the copper coating make them any better to shoot or should I just stick to lead?

I would like small shot but I dont have a shot dripper and lead shot is 75$ for a bag of 20 pounds. So I bought a mold for #4 buckshot from lee and that seems to work great but I would still like small shot.
Can’t help you any with shot costs . I buy direct and get it from our distributors for about $35 US a bag which on today’s market isn’t bad , but I still think back thirty to forty years ago when I was paying $11 US a bag for magnum grade shot . I load Bismuth for what little goose and duck shooting I do , caught a sale at one of the places last year where Bismuth was going for about $110 US for 7 pounds , so got a bag of 2’s and a bag of 4’s to go with the 1’s I already had . I load a weighed 1 1/4 ounce of Bismuth in the 10 gauge , 1 1/8 in the 12’s and an ounce in the 16’s . As to buckshot I cast 00000 and 0000 for the 10 gauge and keep 000 , 00 , 0 , 1 , 2 and 3 on the shelf . I think about thirty years ago Ross Seyfried had an article in “Handloader” magazine about his fav loads and one of his favs was for a 10 gauge 2 7/8” W&C Scott which at the time my maternal grandfather had a match so when that gun came to me I started loading 2 7/8” 10 I’d loaded 3 1/2” in the past . Anyway I’ve been able to adapt the Seyfried load for bird/clay loads , Bismuth loads , buckshot loads and slug loads all of course with minute differences . Only problem was he used SR7625 and when Hodgdon quit selling 7625 I only had perhaps eight pounds . If I just used it to hunt that would last a good long while but I like shooting the games with a 10 as well . But luckily a gentleman on the Parker forum had 18 pounds of 7625 he wanted to part with and now it’s in Virginia in my accumulation . I might add I also have a 10 gauge load using Red Dot and 1 1/8 ounce of shot that is tough to beat at skeet trap dove . Anyway everything I load regardless of gauge is some alloy of lead or Bismuth . There’s a certain amount of extra satisfaction when you take an old double with a load you made and drop a goose and or duck coming in to your decoys , same can be said for dropping a deer with your handloaded buckshot or home cast slugs . Usually every time I go to the club to shoot there’s a 10 gauge in the truck to be patterned or just shot on the skeet/trap fields. When I meet some others for skeet I’ll shoot four rounds and 90% of the time atleast one round will be shot with a 10 . When you shoot a straight round with a hammer 10 that’s choked rather tight you raise some eye brows ;)