Anyone on these forums selling inexpensive PIDs?

[prickett]

I'm looking for an inexpensive PID from a forum vendor that is plug and play ready for a casting pot. Alternatively, the cheapest possible solution from another source. I know nothing about electronics or PIDs, so it'd have to be as near plug and play as possible.

[Minerat]

Depends on what you call inexpensive.

Hatch sell them and only hear good things about them and his customer service.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?344578-VS-120v-220V-PID-setup-UPDATE!

[rancher1913]

you get what you pay for. 2nd hatches pids, they are plug and play and easy to use

[Sig556r]

+1 on Hatch

[jmort]

Agree Hatch

[Preacher Jim]

you will not go wrong with Hatch's unit. his standing behind his unit is tops.

[lightman]

I don't have one of Hatch's but I remember the threads from where he designed and started building them. I also remember his willingness to help other members who were building their own, despite the fact that he was building them to sell. To me, this speaks volumes about a persons character. I would buy one of his with a high degree of confidence. He can't be making very much from them for the price that he sells them for.

[Walter Laich]

PIDs are wonderful--you'll wonder why you waited so long to get one.

I have one on my PD oven and holds temp ±1° once it gets up to temp.

[kevin c]

I have two of Hatch's PID's, so that's two more enthusiastic thumbs up.

[spur0701]

Ditto on Hatche's PIDs, I emailed him on a Fri I think it was, he didn't have any in stock but had enough parts to build one more and did it over the weekend. He shipped it out on Mon, I got it by the end of the week and casted with it all last weekend, he even pre-set the temp.....

[Dragonheart]

Putting together a PID is not that difficult, mainly a willingness to try. Amazon has a package that includes a PID, relay, heatsink & thermocouple for $40 prime delivered. Adding a longer probe for $8 would make it more user friendly. In addition an electrical line with an outlet and a plug, a box to house it all would get it working.

[prickett]

Do you have a link for the Amazon PID? $40 was around the price I was shooting for.

[Dragonheart]

Do you have a link for the Amazon PID? $40 was around the price I was shooting for.

Try a search: Inkbird F Display PID Temperature Controllers Thermostat ITC-106VH, K Sensor, Heat Sink and Solid State Relay, 100ACV - 240ACV (ITC-106VH + 40A SSR + Black heat sink + K Probe) $39.99 prime free same day shipping.

The K probe that comes with this package works OK in an oven, but for a melting pot you need one with a longer stem, also a box, wire, connectors, switch, cord, etc. If $40 is your limit I would rethink the project.

[HATCH]

I will be honest with y’all.
I have about $80 In the units I make.
I buy in bulk.
Thermocouples 20 at a time
Enclosures 10 at a time
Circuit breakers 20 at time
Power cords 20 at a time.
PID w/SSR 5 at a time.

I buy the quantities listed above because of price breaks or because of long lead times.
The PIDs are only in Ga so I can get them in a couple days.
The rest of the parts can take up to 3 weeks to get in so I order a bunch.

I spent $150 on a knockout that I use to cut the 1/32 hole.
Yes I sell them for $125 shipped.
That means I have about $35 profit per unit not taking away the PP fees
10 units take me a Saturday to build.
This includes driving 40 mins to the machine shop to use the mill as a expensive drill press.

Get your parts from Auber.
They are good parts and you will get years of service out of them

[HATCH]

if you want to go the cheap route (good luck)

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-ITC-100VH/dp/B01MG1ASIT/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=pid&qid=1552231313&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Temperature-5mmx100mm-Thermocouple-32-1472%C2%B0F/dp/B07MGJV169/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=6+k+thermocouple&qid=1552231395&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

I haven't used the above parts but they should work just fine.

that puts you about $38 or so
You will still need a power cord
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-PAC1016-Power-Extension-Cord/dp/B002VY53QE/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3O0YRWTZWV7TU&keywords=6%2Bfoot%2Bextension%2Bcord&qid=1552231497&s=gateway&sprefix=6%2Bfoot%2Bex%2Caps%2C267&sr=8-10&th=1

enclosure (not sure if this is the correct size)
https://www.amazon.com/Jameco-Valuepro-SY0206-R-Case-Metal/dp/B00B886K2U/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=metal+enclosure&qid=1552231629&s=gateway&sr=8-11

on/off switch
https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GSW-121-Heavy-Duty-Electrical/dp/B000HEIY1Q/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=on%2Foff+toggle+switch+wire&qid=1552231720&s=gateway&sr=8-6


When you wire the switch, you want to break the power wire that goes to the PID itself. This is switching just a 1/2 amp.
You do not want to switch the entire 15 amp load. Just the PID itself.

[psweigle]

if you want to go the cheap route (good luck)

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-ITC-100VH/dp/B01MG1ASIT/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=pid&qid=1552231313&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Temperature-5mmx100mm-Thermocouple-32-1472%C2%B0F/dp/B07MGJV169/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=6+k+thermocouple&qid=1552231395&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

I haven't used the above parts but they should work just fine.

that puts you about $38 or so
You will still need a power cord
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-PAC1016-Power-Extension-Cord/dp/B002VY53QE/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3O0YRWTZWV7TU&keywords=6%2Bfoot%2Bextension%2Bcord&qid=1552231497&s=gateway&sprefix=6%2Bfoot%2Bex%2Caps%2C267&sr=8-10&th=1

enclosure (not sure if this is the correct size)
https://www.amazon.com/Jameco-Valuepro-SY0206-R-Case-Metal/dp/B00B886K2U/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=metal+enclosure&qid=1552231629&s=gateway&sr=8-11

on/off switch
https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GSW-121-Heavy-Duty-Electrical/dp/B000HEIY1Q/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=on%2Foff+toggle+switch+wire&qid=1552231720&s=gateway&sr=8-6


When you wire the switch, you want to break the power wire that goes to the PID itself. This is switching just a 1/2 amp.
You do not want to switch the entire 15 amp load. Just the PID itself.

Now that speeks VOLUMES for the type of person he is. If i were in the market for one, i would most CERTAINLY get one of his.

[Dragonheart]

My first PID was a powder coating conversion of a 30" all digital convection oven where the electronics were toast, so for me it was a fun hobby project and cost was not an issue.

If you figure your time as worth anything you are not going to save any money building your own box, easier to pay the $125.

[Hairy Dawg]

It's been a while, so I can't remember the exact cost, but I know that I had over $70 just in parts when I built mine. I also used an old PC power supply, that I had on hand, for the box, and had the cords & switch that I used. If you're not good with electronics, then $125 is a great deal.

[Mike W1]

if you want to go the cheap route (good luck)

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-ITC-100VH/dp/B01MG1ASIT/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=pid&qid=1552231313&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Temperature-5mmx100mm-Thermocouple-32-1472%C2%B0F/dp/B07MGJV169/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=6+k+thermocouple&qid=1552231395&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

I haven't used the above parts but they should work just fine.

that puts you about $38 or so
You will still need a power cord
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-PAC1016-Power-Extension-Cord/dp/B002VY53QE/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3O0YRWTZWV7TU&keywords=6%2Bfoot%2Bextension%2Bcord&qid=1552231497&s=gateway&sprefix=6%2Bfoot%2Bex%2Caps%2C267&sr=8-10&th=1

enclosure (not sure if this is the correct size)
https://www.amazon.com/Jameco-Valuepro-SY0206-R-Case-Metal/dp/B00B886K2U/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=metal+enclosure&qid=1552231629&s=gateway&sr=8-11

on/off switch
https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GSW-121-Heavy-Duty-Electrical/dp/B000HEIY1Q/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=on%2Foff+toggle+switch+wire&qid=1552231720&s=gateway&sr=8-6


When you wire the switch, you want to break the power wire that goes to the PID itself. This is switching just a 1/2 amp.
You do not want to switch the entire 15 amp load. Just the PID itself.

I may be misunderstanding this last statement you made but what you said doesn't jibe with the various wiring diagrams that I've seen. Just relooked at several of them. I assume you mean killing the power to the PID with the switch which would make sense. If the PID isn't powered obviously the SSR isn't going to get a signal to switch the power on/off to the load (lead pot). That what you meant?

[prickett]

My first PID was a powder coating conversion of a 30" all digital convection oven where the electronics were toast, so for me it was a fun hobby project and cost was not an issue.

If you figure your time as worth anything you are not going to save any money building your own box, easier to pay the $125.

But the knowledge you gain by building yourself is worth quite a bit. I'm an electronics newb who wants to learn to do more. If cheap, that would lessen the pain if I screw up.

[HATCH]

I may be misunderstanding this last statement you made but what you said doesn't jibe with the various wiring diagrams that I've seen. Just relooked at several of them. I assume you mean killing the power to the PID with the switch which would make sense. If the PID isn't powered obviously the SSR isn't going to get a signal to switch the power on/off to the load (lead pot). That what you meant?

It’s what I said.
You switch the power to the PID controller itself.
That is just a 1/2 amp load.
No PID controller power means no SSR output which kills the power going to your furnace.

[mattw]

Just my 2 cents worth... My Mypin TA4-SNR pid died after years of use. I had an Inkbird sitting on the shelf, so I rewired for it and was back up and running on my lead pot. But, I do not like the Inkbird at all! If you just allow it to hold the temp, it does very well. But it has trouble regulating the temp with normal casting speed outflow and will always way over shoot on a 20 pound pot if you add warm but not melted alloy. I did finally find the way to set it up for autotune, that did help but not nearly as much as autotune on the Mypin. I will replace it with another Mypin, when I get the chance to do so.

[Dragonheart]

When it comes to what I call inexpensive PID's they are all made in China. I went with the Inkbird several years ago and it is still going. I also have had good results with two other Inkbirds. I didn't go with Mypin because originally reading the reviews they had a really high failure rate. I think to some extent product longevity is the luck of the draw. The problem I have is the documentation for all of the PID's seem to be really lacking, but that goes for all Chinese electronics in general.

I do agree the learning can make it worth the DIY and you can customize it as you wish, but if you just want one that works, DIY is not going to save a lot of money.

[HATCH]

Problem you run into is the Chinese clones of Chinese products.
Mypin has clones out there.
Some of the features such as auto tune doesn’t work on the clones

[Conditor22]

Hatch didn't mention: $ for
Terminal Barrier Strip Block Connector Bar for cleaner wire management
Fuses to protect the PID.
grommet or clamp to protect the wire going through the metal box.
I put feet on mine to hold it off the bench to help keep it cool (don't know if this was needed)
Optional panel-mount k type thermocouple connector so you can easily swap out thermocouples between oven/hotplate/pots (I'm not sure this is a good idea if the PID unit is autotuned to a certain piece of equipment).

Hatch could easily get the budget materials but he couldn't stand behind his products as he does.

In the time it takes most of us to rig one together Hatch can build 10 because he has the tools to do it right.

For me, cutting nice square holes in metal housings was a pain as was scrounging for materials,
but - I have more time than money, and have just enough experience to be dangerous and enjoy DIY.

I digress.

Do you mean inexpensive as in cheap or inexpensive as in quality for reasonable $?

[Mike W1]

Really I am not trying to be a pain purposely, I just don't get where you're coming up with the 1/2 Amp versus some other load unless you're wiring up 2 individual inputs.

237749

[HATCH]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190311/8c0c4e572a2090b32db50cc6580d6a8f.jpg

The switch goes where the green line is.
There is no switch before the fuse/circuit breaker.
The PID only draws less then 1/2 amp

[Mike W1]

OK. I see what you're getting at now, possibly saving any wear and tear on a $3 switch.

[HATCH]

I have built a couple hundred PID setups.
All of them have had a switch at the PID controller itself.

You can use a little 10 amp rated switch and by only using it to switch the 1/2 amp there is NO way you will ever burn up the contacts and it’s safer.

I could care less about a 90 cent switch failing.
What I care about is the contacts of that switch overheating and possibly causing a short.
By using a switch that is rated 20 times the load there is no way your gonna melt it.

[Mike W1]

Now I see what you had in mind. BTW I don't think that thing in the drawing I used is a circuit breaker now that I look at it a little closer. Looks like a DPST switch. Usually anyhow a 110v breaker does not break the neutral.

[Conditor22]

https://i.imgur.com/YPYqU0t.jpg

[HATCH]

Now I see what you had in mind. BTW I don't think that thing in the drawing I used is a circuit breaker now that I look at it a little closer. Looks like a DPST switch. Usually anyhow a 110v breaker does not break the neutral.

The thing in the drawing outside the box is a dpst switch.
I don’t use a fuse, I use a circuit breaker.
Fuses mean you have to buy and keep spares.

[Mike W1]

I have built a couple hundred PID setups.
All of them have had a switch at the PID controller itself.

You can use a little 10 amp rated switch and by only using it to switch the 1/2 amp there is NO way you will ever burn up the contacts and it’s safer.

I could care less about a 90 cent switch failing.
What I care about is the contacts of that switch overheating and possibly causing a short.
By using a switch that is rated 20 times the load there is no way your gonna melt it.

Well I don't have a EE, but a friend is, so I asked him about this. Course there's always lots of "ifs" when there's more than one way to do something. However, "if" you turn your switch off and the SSR has happened to fail, they generally failed closed so the power would still be going to the pot. Guess you just unplug the whole thing from the power outlet though.

[Dragonheart]

I have built a couple hundred PID setups.
All of them have had a switch at the PID controller itself.

You can use a little 10 amp rated switch and by only using it to switch the 1/2 amp there is NO way you will ever burn up the contacts and it’s safer.

I could care less about a 90 cent switch failing.
What I care about is the contacts of that switch overheating and possibly causing a short.
By using a switch that is rated 20 times the load there is no way your gonna melt it.

I have only built two PID boxes and converted a 30" oven to PID and it never occurred to me to NOT put in a switch, but what do I know compared to those posting on You Tube.

[HATCH]

SSR has happened to fail, they generally failed closed so the power would still be going to the pot.


I worked for a DDC company that did HVAC controls.
They have installed 10s of thousands of SSRs.
I can tell you that from my experience unless they are overloaded and burn up, if they fail, they just stop working.
I say IF they fail because unless they are overloaded or aren’t properly heatsinked, they generally don’t fail.
Out of 200+ units I have built , I have only had one problem with a SSR and it was a factory defect.
The SSR housing detached from the metal base. This caused the SSR itself to overheat and melt the plastic housing. On that unit the SSR did not pass current.
But anyway, we are getting into design and that is off topic as the OP is looking for a cheap PID.

[skud007]

I find that using old computer power supply boxes work well for these units. You can gut them out and cut out for your PID controller. I've built two this way and have about $35 into mine.