Lyman thermostat

[Trophy Tom]

Can anyone tell me where I can get a thermostat for my Lyman bottom pour lead pot.
I’ve searched the site and came up with one name. I can’t remember the name. I believe it started with a B. I’ve searched there site and called. They have the B-200 but only as high as 600-650 degrees. The Lyman goes up to 850.
Can anyone point me in the right direction or
Have one to sell to me?
Thanks
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[rancher1913]

http://orders.ppe.com/odr/rbpperetail.htm?p-part=B-200

doesnt show heat range but looks close, might try contacting them.

[Trophy Tom]

It says 100-500 deg on the thermostat above


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[JBinMN]

This may help:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?114184-Parts-for-lead-pots-furnaces

[44magLeo]

Why not build a PID controller? It will keeps temps so much more accurately than the stock thermostat ever could.
Not hard to do.
Leo

[Trophy Tom]

What is a PID ?


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[OuchHot!]

The controller on my rcbs pro-melt had at least a 50 degree dead band. RCBS told me that was normal and they do not warranty electric components anyway. So I turn it full on and use PID. These controllers are relatively cheap and amazing in action. I bought my stuff from Auber instruments but there are a lot of cheaper alternatives on flea bay. Lots of articles here how to.

[JBinMN]

What is a PID ?


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A proportional–integral–derivative controller (PID controller or three-term controller) is a control loop feedback mechanism widely used in industrial control systems and a variety of other applications requiring continuously modulated control.
Source:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller

IOW, an efficient way to control the temp on your lead furnace by electronic means. Instead of using the "analog" ( old school method) rheostat "dial type" temp. control that we usually deal with on our furnaces when melting lead.
;)

Search engines can be your friend.
;)

[OuchHot!]

As the hotrodders say "if more is better then entirely too much is just right". I bought a pair of cheap PID and put them in a box. I can plug the pot into one and a hotplate into the other. The hotplate keeps the molds warm. I use several gang molds at a time and this keeps my down time to a minimum. But this kind of over kill sure isn't needed. I use a number of alloys for muzzleloaders, pistols, and rifles.......I have several pots and just quit relying on the internal controls. A search here will bury you with build instructions.....there are some very innovative people here.

[44magLeo]

I don't know how to do links. If you look at top of the page you will find a row of headings. Click the Casting and Reloading, scroll down to Casting Equipment. Click it. In the stickies look for threads with PID in the title.
I built mine in an old cah box like you see people using a yard sales.
I cut a hole in the front for the PID, mounted the SSR inside. Mounted a one socket outlet in the end. A couple holes in front for switches. On is ON the other is bypass. The power cord just hooks inside. When in use I open the box, pull out power cord and temp probe. Plug the pot in the outlet. Power cord in wall.
Set switches to bypass this lets the pot warm up with out the probe. Once the lead melts I put probe in the pot, a set switches to ON. This lets the PID control the pot.
When I'm not casting I turn OFF the PID, remove the probe and clean it off, Un plug the power cord and pot. I then wind up the power cord and probe and put in the box. Close the box.
My Lee pot the stock control still works, I just set it at max. In your pot just bypass your stock controller. The wires that plug into the stock controller, just hook them together. This lets the element heat as long as power goes to the pot.
The PID turns the power off and on to control temp. Mine keeps it within just a few degrees. your stock one might be within 50 degrees.
This more precise control of temps makes casting a lot easier.
Set Up like I have mine you can use the PID to control most any heat source. Like the oven you bake your powder coated boollits in.
Leo

[Hossfly]

Hatch has plug and play PID that you can jump out your original t stat and control pot with that works, may be more expensive than orig but you will be amazed at what it does. Or build your own, it ain’t hard if your good with that sort of stuff.

[Rizzo]

Yep, I also recommend putting the money towards a PID to control the temperature of your melter.

It has a probe that is mounted to the melter and you set the actual temperature that is desired.
Think of it as a thermostat.

Remove or bypass your bad temp. control on your melter.
That way the PID is directly controlling the heater element.
I use one on my Lee pot and keep the temp. control on fully.

[georgerkahn]

I have two Mould Master Lyman pots with "shot" thermostats. Further, on one, the mica/Eisenglass socket piece (for the A.C. cord to plug in) also broke. My solution -- a good one for me -- was to solder an electric coffee pot cord -- the old ones from Farer, G.E., and similar 1950's percolators -- bypassing it. For several years I simply then plugged the pot I was using into a Variac, which was plugged into wall socket. I'd start "low", and keep increasing voltage until alloy melted, and further adjusted thereafter. (My very first uses were with Variac at full (110V) voltage, and I quickly learned it is MUCH easier to add a few volts/heat than it is to reduce voltage for cooling -- it doesn't take too long to get the idea...) Just a few years ago I became privy to PID's vis this site, bought a couple, and haven't looked back. But, again, the Variac DOES the job.
Both my Mould Masters were indeed made quite well -- their "only" fault being their hook-up to element. Too nice a pot to dispose of...
BEST!
geo

[Smoke4320]

Like all the above said ditch the T Stat and get you a PID oh so better in so many ways

[Rich/WIS]

Years ago I had a Saeco and two Lyman ten pound pots that the thermostats failed on. I bought replacement thermostats from Bilbee Controls in Cairo NY. They were stamped 575 F. Still have a Lyman as a backup if my Lee 20 pounder fails. I have one thermostat left. Note that the temp the thermostat reads is taken off the outside of the pot and there is a bit of standoff between the pot and the thermostat. The temp is thus the temp in the air space between the the pot and the thermostat, it is NOT the temp of your alloy. Most of the B-200 series thermostats that I have seen also have a stop on the knob that is press fitted to the shaft and can be removed and the stop moved to allow a higher temp if needed.