CVA Drum replacement

[FrontierMuzzleloading]

CVA Mountain Stalker drum removal today.

Soaked it for close to 2 weeks in PB Blaster. I first tried unscrewing the drum but the metal was so soft it caved in on itself and so I cut it off almost flush with the barrel and went to an easy out.

I heated up around the drum with a propane torch, installed the easy out and once it went all the way down flush, I cranked back on that sucker and the drum easily backed right out!

Now I will have to figure out how to line the hole up for the nipple. I really dont like the idea of turning it on a lathe and thinning the drum. The original drum was thin in this area where it snugs up against the barrel and over the years, I found it had developed a crack in the nipple threads. So, that's why it got replaced today.
https://i.postimg.cc/pdTqvSbk/IMG-0313.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
https://i.postimg.cc/T3QCZ6Sp/IMG-0314.jpg (https://postimg.cc/zybCg9qr)
https://i.postimg.cc/T3Tt7wtz/IMG-0316.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
https://i.postimg.cc/8PRymWmd/IMG-0317.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

here's where the nipple is located when snugged up. Not good, a blank drum may have been the wiser choice, then just drill and tap it.
https://i.postimg.cc/zXZthpKX/IMG-0319.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
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Also was able to get a nipple out of an OLD shotgun. This nipple made the drum job seem super easy. Will have to clean it up and drill/tap with an over sized nipple for this one.
https://i.postimg.cc/90TLSq5h/IMG-0321.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[n.h.schmidt]

I have done this before. You can do this two ways. First back off the drum to face the hammer. See if it lines up with the hammer cup. If good ,make a shim to take up the gap. If too far to the outside , face off a little of the shoulder until it will rotate up to to the hammer. It really dosn't need to be real tight and loctite will hold it in place.
n.h.schmidt

[indian joe]

I have done this before. You can do this two ways. First back off the drum to face the hammer. See if it lines up with the hammer cup. If good ,make a shim to take up the gap. If too far to the outside , face off a little of the shoulder until it will rotate up to to the hammer. It really dosn't need to be real tight and loctite will hold it in place.
n.h.schmidt

yep ! do this .......

[FrontierMuzzleloading]

how much would be considered to much? I'd much rather use the shim than remove any material

[pastera]

Looks like a little less then half a turn will line it up

If the thread is in TPI then .5/(thread pitch) is the thickness of shim you need - I would start a little thick and thin it down to get it right.

But if you have a lathe, why not make one that you can clock without a shim?

[FrontierMuzzleloading]

i dont have a lathe, i'd have to take it to a gunsmith i know. I could do it by hand but am not sure on that.

[jdfoxinc]

Do not replace a CVA drum with any other drum. It is the drum and breach plug both. Look at the piece you removed, and look into the hole left in the barrel. The end of the removed piece fits into the recess on the far side of the barrel with the hole lined up with the center of the barrel. If you do not use a CVA drum you will blow the hook breach back into your stock. I believe Dixie Gun Works carrys them.

[Gtek]

^^^^^, CVA challenges.

[FrontierMuzzleloading]

I find it hard to believe seeing how I've done many others in the past and had zero issues firing them.

[FrontierMuzzleloading]

I just looked on an old cva cut away picture and the breech plug is threaded into the barrel itself.

[FrontierMuzzleloading]

235689

[indian joe]

Do not replace a CVA drum with any other drum. It is the drum and breach plug both. Look at the piece you removed, and look into the hole left in the barrel. The end of the removed piece fits into the recess on the far side of the barrel with the hole lined up with the center of the barrel. If you do not use a CVA drum you will blow the hook breach back into your stock. I believe Dixie Gun Works carrys them.

NO! the breech plug and nipple drum are two separate parts
The breech plug is actually extended forward of the bolster hole so there is way more thread engagement than most hook breech rifles, then the bolster hole is drilled through the end of the threaded plug - most (nipple drum) guns the bolster hole is drilled ahead of the breech plug face, to make a flinter you just unscrew the bolster and screw in a touch hole liner - its quite safe in that form - still have more thread engagement than conventional breech plug. The bolster does not hold the breech plug in - maybe it adds some extra strength compared to most conventional design guns.

[FrontierMuzzleloading]

I ended up taking the advice of the old gun builders and did it by hand this morning. I used a jewelers file and carefully turned the drum down until everything lined up perfectly after a good heavy seating of the drum against the barrel. Everything lined up perfectly, better than factory actually. Next I will proof it and then get it all sighted in. Its good to have this one back! Has the 1:32 twist 50cal barrel on it that shoots the real bullets like a dream.
https://i.postimg.cc/HWNpNZ84/20190210-124238.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
https://i.postimg.cc/dtTqc28M/20190210-124202.jpg (https://postimg.cc/mtBxQFXV)
https://i.postimg.cc/Dwk7vSgS/20190210-123025.jpg (https://postimg.cc/bsT7LN4P)

[taco650]

What's the stock made of on that rifle?

[FrontierMuzzleloading]

its synthetic. Typical CVA stuff if its not wood.