So, my PID died and I had a spare Inkbird but can't get an autotune cycle.

[mattw]

I had a Mypin in my original build and it was very easy to get into the autotune cycle, but it died and I had an Inkbird that was for another project. I swapped it in and for the life of me cannot figure out how to get it into autotune so I can get some basic first time settings to work with.

This is running my RCBS Pro Pot.

Anyone using the ITC106HV? Can you give me your PID values if you are? It would need to be for a 20 pound pot, or the rates would be all wrong. I am about to order another Mypin because of ease of use.

[Mal Paso]

I pulled out the instructions and it says nothing about autotune. I have one on the hot plate that needs it.

I'm switching back to Auber. Better quality, 8 pages of instructions for not much more money. Tech support too.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

http://pmod79883.pic31.websiteonline.cn/upload/0bk4.pdf

Interesting...the instructions refer to the left arrow button (labeled AT/RUN) as the "Shift button" and I couldn't find autotune mentioned anywhere, but they mention a self-tuning mode which you enter via the parameters.

[mattw]

I tried the AT mode, that mode seems to run all the time. I guess it is a constant fine tune cycle. That mode made for some really large temperature swings. In the oP settings there is the ctrl and the run settings. The ctrl mode AT is the one that I tried. I am running in PID with manual inhibit. Maybe I need to run in PID with auto, the manual sucks. I do not understand the PID principles well either and reading them makes my head hurt.

[Mike W1]

Don't have one of those units myself. But from the manual I have this stands out.
When use the instrument for the first time, it’s a must to use the self-tuning
Alarm is controlled by relay signals. COM12 (COM) is public port, COM1 is function of the instrument to determine control parameters (M50, P and t)
normally closed, COM11 is normally opened, maximum load is AC250/3A for an ideal control effect. Press “«” key for over 2 seconds, then the SV
(resistive load). window will display characters “A” and “T” alternately, and the system will
enter self-tuning mode. When self-tuning, the temperature controller will
conduct digital adjustment. After oscillation for 2 to 5 times, the instrument
will automatically set the PID control parameters (parameters M50, P and T).
PV window displays After self-tuning, the system will return to PID automatic control mode.
measured value or set functional symbols During self-tuning, press “«” key for over 2 seconds to cancel self-tuning,
SV window displays then the characters “AT” displayed in SV window will disappear.
setting value or set value to be read Attentions: for temperature controller which had run self-tuning before,
Working indicating light it’s a must to set parameter CtrL as “2” before launching another self-tuning
OUT: Indicating control signal output (please refer to section “parameters setting and definition” in this manual
AL1: Indicating AL1 alarm for detailed operation). The control parameter value will vary according to
AL2: Indicating AL2 alarm setting temperature, therefore, it’s a must to run self-tuning with the most
RUN: Manual indication frequently used setting value of the system. If the setting value often
“INCREASE” key: when setting value, press“︽” key to increase changes, run self-tuning with the middle value of setting values.
Will try to attach the file.
235265235265

That doesn't seem to be doing what I'd hope. But maybe you can google that file.

[Mal Paso]

http://pmod79883.pic31.websiteonline.cn/upload/0bk4.pdf

Interesting...the instructions refer to the left arrow button (labeled AT/RUN) as the "Shift button" and I couldn't find autotune mentioned anywhere, but they mention a self-tuning mode which you enter via the parameters.

Thanks! I just have a one sheet that came with my ITC106VH which also said ITC106 Instructions.

I tried the AT button like Mike W1 said and nuthin. Thanks!

I used JonB's PDF. Autotune is accessed through the setup menu. Changed the oP value from Pid to At. I have it running now. It's a hot plate and has overshot twice so far. I'll let you know.

[Mike W1]

I'm certain you're all doing what the manuals say which is hold that button over 2 seconds and then you'll get flashing alternately A and T while it does it tuning bit. Saying that much it's possible the unit is defective though unlikely.
The only PID test that comes to mind is to short across the TC terminals and the thing should read ambient temperature.

As I said I don't have one of them myself. I HAD a Mypin and neither it nor it's replacement was right for me being used to an Auber. Still have the Auber but my other 3 units are Rex's and I've been very happy with them and don't find reading only in celsius to be any handicap. At a $30 plus difference in price compared to the Auber they're simple enough I could forgo the tech support. Their manuals aren't too hot either but after a little help off this forum there really isn't much you have to set to make them work. I've not seen much of the Inkbirds mentioned anywhere on here though I think if one looked on sites that cover PID's one could get the help ones needs. Casters aren't the only ones using these things and some of those others I've looked at online know a lot more about setting them than I. If I had bought one of those I'm pretty sure it'd have been returned just like the Mypin I tried.

[Mal Paso]

So it went through autotune and switched to PID and control is not much better. the swing is 40F. There's a note about turning PID off if it doesn't work for you. LOL

I spent $45 2 months ago for a PID Controller from Auber Instruments. I needed a regular thermostat and called Auber Tech Support. He said just turn off the PID, set the deadband, and offered a few other settings that made it a slick solution. I'll replace the Ink Bird with an Auber next chance I get. It's still a steal, an Omron Controller from Digikey is $240.

The Ink Bird is still on, still has a 40F swing. LOL