I need a new Caliper, which one ?

[hylander]

I have a Cabelas Caliper

http://www.cabe
las.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp;jsessionid=FYVVO4P1URKNNLAQBBJCCNVMCAEFGI WE
?id=0024109213608a&type=product&cmCat=froogle&cm_ven=data_feed&cm_cat=froogle&cm_p
la=0370106&cm_ite=0024109213608a&_requestid=51225 (http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp;jsessionid=FYVVO4P1URKNNLA
QBBJCCNVMCAEFGIWE?id=0024109213608a&type=product&cmCat=froogle&cm_ven=data_feed&c
m_cat=froogle&cm_pla=0370106&cm_ite=0024109213608a&_requestid=51225)

It was great, until I dropped it [smilie=1:
Still seems to work but every measurement seems to be off by .001
So I go to Cabelas to get another and they have about 8 of them in stock, I check each one and they are all sticky and gritty.
I also checked out 3 different Lymans and the same thing, sticky, gritty.
Both seem to be made at the same place, they are Identical.
So what is a good caliper that does not cost $100 or more.

[454PB]

I bought one of these about a year ago:

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=610-5055&PMPXNO=2603665&PARTPG=INLMK32

Unless you're doing very fine machine work, this will do a fine job.

In my opinion, the expensive measuring tool should be a micrometer, rather than a caliper.

[monadnock#5]

I was all set to post until I read the last sentence. What the heck. I'll post anyway. I know it's outside your price range, but I really like my Starrett. It can be purchased with a T attachment for more accurate depth measurements. What I especially like about it is the dial face is bigger, the graduations bolder, and is much more easily read than my old Mitutoyo. It really is a nice thing, and well worth the price for my needs.

You might try ebay. A couple years ago I picked up a Starrett 1" mic, brand new in the shrink wrap, at 25% off the MSRP.

[Buckshot]

................I'll bet 5 bucks that ALL those Lee, Lyman, RCBS, Cabellas, and every other $15 caliper out there comes from the same factory in China :-) Most of them work pretty darn well for what you pay for one, but yeah some can be a bit rough. Just check the one in the next box down, as it might be like silk :-)

454PB had it right as to what to use when serious work needs to be done. And if it has to be to tenths then I'd sure buy American or European.

monadnock#5 mentioned Starrett, and they do make a superb instrument. In order to compete and stay in business they have a line called "International" that are made in China 'To our specs'. I don't know about them, but the REAL USA made Starretts will basically never die as you can send them to Starrett who will fix them right up, for a fee. The $15 ones you throw away.

...............Buckshot

[1hole]

Yeah, if there is any difference between the least expesive dial caliper from Harbor Freight and the most expensive house branded ones, including RCBS, I can't see it. I long ago determined they are all made in the same plant in China and spending a dime more than the least expenisve I can get - on sale - from Harbor Freight, frequently for about $12-14, is the way to go.

No precision measurement intrument is immune to dropping but I wonder how/why yours is .001" off? I mean, would it not be possible to simply loosen the lock screw and turn the outer dial back to zero and lock it there?

You may be able to blow any grit or trash out of the rack gear with compressed air and restore smooth action. I do it often and it has, so far, restored easy operation to my three Chinese made dial calipers. And the accuracy of all of them, as measured against some machinest's precision gage block standards, is phenominal!

[JDFuchs]

I have had wonderfull luck with a metal one i picked up at harbor freight. it is consistant smooth and reliable. But cheap enough that i can stick in a dirty machine. As my shop boss said a few times never trust a caliper use a mike. For most reloading things this caliper has been more then enough. Look around at the pawn shops in your area and you might find a nice caliper for cheep. Don't spend much more then $25 at a pawn shop on somthing like that. But for most any need you should never have to have a caliper that costs more then $25-$30. Just never never pick up a plastic one.

[largom]

I don't know if their prices are the same coast to coast but here in the East I buy Electronic digital calipers at Harbor Freight for $15-$17.00 each. I have several in my load room and in my shop. Have checked accuracy with my Starret mikes and they are with-in 1/2 thousand.
Like others said, spend the big bucks on a micrometer not a caliper.
Larry

[hylander]

Went to Harbor Freight Tool and picked up this one.
I know it is cheap, but it is measuring spot on, I will check it often to see how it holds up.
$16.99 on Sale.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47257

[MtGun44]

You can reset the caliper to zero in most cases. Look and see if the
rack is held on with about 4 TINY phillips head screws. If so, you can
loosen these and bump the rack back into position to reset it.

Many calipers have an adjustable dial to set the zero over a small
range, so this may be possible if you only have the small amount
to adjust out.

Bill

[largom]

Went to Harbor Freight Tool and picked up this one.
I know it is cheap, but it is measuring spot on, I will check it often to see how it holds up.
$16.99 on Sale.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47257

hylander, That is exactly the same caliper I was talking about. I have
3 of them for over 5 years now and still working great. Batteries
are available at Walmart and last over a year.
Now get yourself a GOOD micrometer.
Larry

[NuJudge]

Get yourself a set of known diameter bullets to measure, just before you measure some bullet. The cheap calipers I have dealt with zero out fine, but are frequently .002" off at the diameters I want to measure.

CDD

[Bret4207]

NuJudge makes a good point- you need a standard of some sort. I lucked onto a set of carburetor jet gauges and use those. Anything will work- a bullet, a pin, it doesn't matter. Just make sure you know EXACTLY what the true diameter is and don't lose it. I like to use something about .250-.500 as most of my measurements are in that area.

[hylander]

Get yourself a set of known diameter bullets to measure, just before you measure some bullet. The cheap calipers I have dealt with zero out fine, but are frequently .002" off at the diameters I want to measure.

CDD

Thanks;
That is exactly what I have been using for a long time to check Zero :-D
I have two bullets, one is .224 and the other .308, I keep them in the padded case with the Caliper.
I took the two bullets with me to the store to check the new Caliper before I bought it, I actually checked about 4-5 Calipers before I settled on this one.