Converting Pardus (Turkish Folder) 12 ga. to 357 Mag

[KLR]

I started with a Pardus shotgun I bought for $89. It's a Turkish folder with an internal hammer. I also have a .357 mag barrel from a Timberwolf rifle that madmathemagician on the GBO forum generously gave me for the cost of shipping.

Link to donor shotgun:

https://www.centerfireguns.com/i-o-single-shot-syn-12-28-pard0001.html


I decided to start by prepping the receiver. First up was a trigger job. Two pins hold the trigger group to the receiver and then three more hold the hammer, sear, and trigger.

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-KNnzw7G/0/920c01a4/X2/i-KNnzw7G-X2.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-KNnzw7G/A)

Here is how they interact:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-M4QBscz/0/8936af6b/X2/i-M4QBscz-X2.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-M4QBscz/A)

I polished the mating surfaces and SLIGHTLY flattened out the notch in the hammer so that pulling the trigger doesn't cock the hammer further. I also swapped the sear spring for one with about half of the strength. The trigger is now about 4 lbs, smooth, but still a little creep. I'm going to leave it there and err on the side of safety.

Polished parts:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-2J7R6fx/0/9c7172a6/X2/i-2J7R6fx-X2.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-2J7R6fx/A)

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-TZRVGzC/0/4cf656be/XL/i-TZRVGzC-XL.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-TZRVGzC/A)


Next, I had to do something about that big shotgun firing pin. So I drilled and tapped the receiver for a 6-48 screw:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-cDJF9Fv/0/32c018dc/XL/i-cDJF9Fv-XL.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-cDJF9Fv/A)

Then drilled the screw lengthwise with a .070" bit:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-Gdt7SPc/0/7e0f615e/XL/i-Gdt7SPc-XL.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-Gdt7SPc/A)

Used JBweld to secure it in place:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-F7d3RCr/0/dcb75496/XL/i-F7d3RCr-XL.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-F7d3RCr/A)

Cut it flush and touched it up with some cold blue:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-k7TpjCk/0/80185022/XL/i-k7TpjCk-XL.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-k7TpjCk/A)

Chucked the firing pin in the mill and used a dremel to grind it down. (It's a little uneven - I may have to turn one on the lathe.)

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-v6T253S/0/f9a6b486/XL/i-v6T253S-XL.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-v6T253S/A)

It has a max of .068" protrusion, so I may need to trim it back.

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-qmgRQp8/0/e0e2a5c9/XL/i-qmgRQp8-XL.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-qmgRQp8/A)

Next up: Barrel and extractor.

[rancher1913]

following

[Gewehr-Guy]

Are the Academy stores the only place to get these Yildiz shotguns? Their website shows them as in store sales only. I did a bit of searching and have not found any other companies selling them.

[Texas by God]

[emoji102]heck yeah.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[KLR]

Are the Academy stores the only place to get these Yildiz shotguns? Their website shows them as in store sales only. I did a bit of searching and have not found any other companies selling them.

That's the only place I've seen them too. This a Pardus, so I don't know how similar they are or how many different Turkish manufacturers there are. Some have an external hammer and the barrel release incorporated in the trigger guard.

I have a 30 cal barrel blank that I would like to put in a .410 Yildiz and chamber in a .30 Badger so if you find them online, please let me know.

[ulav8r]

Saw the Yildiz at Academy in Conway this morning. $129 for the 410, $139 for the 12 gauge. Was in display behind glass, and the one clerk was busy so I did not get to hold it.

[Jedman]

KLR, Looks great ! I just recently reworked the trigger sear on a 410 Yildiz and it improved the trigger pull a lot. You can't not want a simple 357 break action rifle. I am not fimilar with the Pardus shotguns but it looks similar to the Yildiz and if they have wood stocks that is really a great price !
Keep us posted on your project, we all love these type of projects and like to see pics ! Good Luck !

Jedman

[KLR]

Jedman, Unfortunately, this shotgun has a plastic stock.

Now for today's installment.

I faced the chamber, cut a recess for the rim on the lathe and then used needle files to move the extractor notch back. I'm not real happy with the finish. I used a hss bit ground to a sharp point. Any tips for a smoother cut would be appreciated:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-6RgXMjg/0/8a8a377f/XL/i-6RgXMjg-XL.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-6RgXMjg/A)



Next I drilled and tapped the extractor for a 1/4-28 screw:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-Hvhr8XP/0/d965840d/XL/i-Hvhr8XP-XL.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-Hvhr8XP/A)


Then took a 1/4-28 Grade 8 bolt and tightened it in a piece of iron pipe to hold it for milling. I cut off the head, milled it to fit the width of the extractor slot in the barrel, and squared up the front face:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-nkThvHn/0/476b17ce/L/i-nkThvHn-L.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-nkThvHn/A)

Kept milling until I had removed everything that didn't look like an extractor and then threaded it into the 12 ga extractor:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-VbKNRPX/0/8289cc4b/L/i-VbKNRPX-L.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-VbKNRPX/A)

A little file work to get everything to fit and I'm almost ready to epoxy the two barrels together:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-QBBwLwC/0/1cbbf0a2/L/i-QBBwLwC-L.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-QBBwLwC/A)

Up next: Drill and tap receiver for the scope base, score inside of shotgun barrel for epoxy, and glue it all together.

[Jedman]

KLR, Man you do nice work ! Don't worry about the epoxy bond, if you have the parts clean they will be bonded together forever. Cool project !

Jedman

[Texas by God]

Looking good; how long are you finishing the barrel to?

[KLR]

Thanks, Jedman!

Texas by God - the rifle barrel is 18.5", but I cut the 12 ga barrel to 19.75". I want to see if that will direct the blast forward a little. If not, I'll chop it to 18.5.

[Texas by God]

Thanks, Jedman!

Texas by God - the rifle barrel is 18.5", but I cut the 12 ga barrel to 19.75". I want to see if that will direct the blast forward a little. If not, I'll chop it to 18.5.
It should. I like how you fixed the extractor. Keep it coming, we are enjoying this. Stubbing is fun and you get a MUCH funner gun than a 5# 12gauge!

[GhostHawk]

I agree with Texas. I don't have the tools, or the know how. But am loving watching you work through this project.

[KLR]

Thanks, guys.

Right now it weighs 6.4 lbs. I still need the scope rail and scope. I didn't even shoot it as a 12 ga. I have eye floaters.....and an aversion to pain. ;)

[KLR]

Today:

Drilled and tapped shotgun barrel for 8-40 threads:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-KZckjgj/0/8bb17630/L/i-KZckjgj-L.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-KZckjgj/A)

Installed a Weaver number 74 scope base and milled it to fit:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-pQnHrvt/0/98f57f97/L/i-pQnHrvt-L.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-pQnHrvt/A)

Finished scope base:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-rtQBMjn/0/bad003ca/L/i-rtQBMjn-L.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-rtQBMjn/A)

Installed on rifle:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-qhK9vjx/0/07fb9095/L/i-qhK9vjx-L.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-qhK9vjx/A)

I need to touch up the raw aluminum and figure out a finish for the barrel since I removed the vent rib. I'll likely sand the whole barrel and cold blue it.

Time now to bond the two barrels together.

[Jedman]

234658234659234660Here is a short carbine in 44 Mag that I built 7-8 years ago from a H&R M 48 12 ga. shotgun.
The rifle barrel was made from a 20 ga. barrel I picked up at very low cost somewhere and used a Timberwolf 44 barrel when they were available turned to fit as a liner in the 20 ga. Originally I faced the barrel off and cut a rim recess and made it a 44 special without reaming the barrel liner ended up about 18" long and I cut the 20 ga. Barrel off at 19" so the muzzle is recessed about a inch. The forend I made from black cherry and stained to look close to the walnut on the butt stock.
Decided to try the Burris fast fire sight instead of a scope and it shot great, half dollar sized groups at 100 yards with the red dot sight. The first day I took it out hunting I shot a average sized 7 pt whitetail buck with a Lyman devastator HP cast bullet.
Later a friend was reaming a barrel with the GBO 445 super mag reamer and I used it to deepen the chamber to use 44 Mags if I want and it shoots as good or better than as a 44 spl.
I still have the original 12 ga. barrel with its matching forend that fits this gun perfectly also.

Making the barrel recessed didn't seem to change the sound of the 44 spls. Or 44 mags. Or hurt the accuracy either so I left it as I made it at 19" as I think it looks better than it would if I had cut it to 18", sorry about the dark pics as you can't see the muzzle inside the 20 ga.

[ulav8r]

I faced the chamber, cut a recess for the rim on the lathe and then used needle files to move the extractor notch back. I'm not real happy with the finish. I used a hss bit ground to a sharp point. Any tips for a smoother cut would be appreciated:
.

Use a fine whetstone to smooth up the cutting edge and stone a light radius on the tip of the tool. The radius will do the most to smooth the cut. Normal practise is to use a radius equal to or larger than the depth of cut.

[KLR]

Jedman - That looks nice. I had originally intended to use a H&R, but prices shot up after they quit making them. The Fast Fire looks like a great way to keep the rifle light and handy. Is that a SB1 frame?

Glad to hear that 44 Specials shoot accurately out of your 445 chamber. I'm renting the GBO 357 Max reamer and I'm wondering if my Pardus frame is up to handling the 357 Maximum pressures, but I can always just shoot standard 357 mag loads. The chamber area of my barrel did not have to be turned down so I think I'm safe, and if the frame can hold up to a 12 ga slug, it should be able to take a 200 gr bullet at 357 Max velocities. Yes? No?

ulav8r - Thanks for the info! I will do that the next time.

[Gewehr-Guy]

It looks like the top flat at the rear of the frame would be an easy place to mount a tang sight, then maybe file a radius on the edges.

[Jedman]

KLR, The frame on the H&R M 48 is not a SB 1 as this gun was made many years before NEF but it is similar, main difference is it has no transfer bar and the firing pin is struck directly by the hammer.
I may have confused people by the mention of using the 445 reamer, I didn't ream the chamber to the length of the 445 case I just went deep enough to chamber 44 mag brass + about .010 since it already had the rim cut. I don't shoot top pressure 44 mag loads in it as its not necessary but I think the frame is strong enough for them. I didn't bush the firing pin and don't get any primer flow so all is good for my use.

Is the Pardus frame steel or iron or aluminum like the Yildiz ? It may be up to firing the 357 max only you know what's in your handloads and how the gun seems to open, close, extract when you use hotter loads and what your fired primers look like which is not really a good thing to judge by.
Overall my personal feeling is strait walled cartridges firing cast bullets are easier on the guns frame than any bottle necked cartridge. :???:
Also 200 gr. At 357 mag velocities out of max brass would surely be lower pressure do to mush larger case capacity.

Your gun looks very nice !

Jedman

[KLR]

Jedman, The Pardus has a steel frame and seems to have a tight lockup. You raise some good points, and I'll have to think about reaming it to to 357 Max. Maybe it would be a good idea to just ream it deep enough to chamber 357 Magnum. How heavy of bullets did you shoot out of the 357 barrels you used? I'm wondering about the twist rate and how heavy I can go.

Gewehr-Guy - I'd like to be able to use open or peep sights, but my vision just isn't good enough. It would certainly be lighter and handier without a scope.

[Jedman]

Sounds like the reciever is fine, the GBO max reamer has a generous leade before the bullet touches the rifling so even if you just go deep enough for using 357 mag brass you will be able to load 200 gr. bullets to a OAL well over 1.6". I forget what the twist is in the Tiberwolf barrel but I shoot 200 gr. LBT FNGC bullets with good accuracy, plus 180, 158, 125's.
I'm a older guy and can only see iron sights well enough for plinking in bright light. All of my guns I use to hunt with have scopes or red dot sights.

Jedman

[KLR]

Yesterday I epoxied the barrels together and painted the scope base. Today I painted the barrel and put it all together. I need to get some lower scope mounts.

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-wjx5t2N/0/b4c7c70a/XL/i-wjx5t2N-XL.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-wjx5t2N/A)

I tested it with a few 38 special rounds I had loaded for my snub nose. They were unsized tumble lube 158 gr swc plinking rounds. My son and I took a few shots and everything worked perfectly. We adjusted the scope several times and the barrel and scope are aligned. I'll load some 158 gr JHPs tonight.

[Texas by God]

It looks at home in those woods. Good job! What does it weigh?

[KLR]

What does it weigh?

6.4 lbs for the rifle, 7.2 lbs as pictured.

[Jedman]

Nice looking rifle, Good Job !
I see you making more than one.

Jedman

[Texas by God]

I used a IMI Uzi barrel for a 9mm Luger stub and it shoots cheap factory fmj so well we haven't felt the need to reload for it. Looking forward to a range report.
I mentioned this because IMI made the Timberwolf rifle.

[KLR]

We're supposed to get slammed with cold weather this week so it may be a while before I can get a range report. I'd also like to ream it too so that I can work up a good 357 Mag load. There's not much data out there for 38 Special rifle loads.

I have a .30 cal barrel destined to become a 30 Badger. I want to put it on a .410 Yildiz and make it as light as possible. I'll have to figure out a way to get to an Academy Sports first...

[KLR]

Update:

I received the GBO 357 Max reamer yesterday and reamed it last night. I went ahead and made it a 357 Max, but will just load to 357 Mag levels and see how it goes.

[Jedman]

Just in case you didn't know Starline has 360 Dan Wesson brass for sale.
Like most other strait walled cases it will last nearly forever in a single shot.

Jedman

[KLR]

Just in case you didn't know Starline has 360 Dan Wesson brass for sale.
Like most other strait walled cases it will last nearly forever in a single shot.

Jedman

Thanks, Jedman. Brownells has both the 360 DW and Max brass in stock. I made a chamber cast and the GBO reamer made a nice long throat. I think I'll go with the Max brass because it will give me more flexibility and likely 100 rounds will last me the rest of my life.

It got up to 10 degrees here today so I loaded a 357 Mag round with a 158gr XTP seated long and 18 gr of Lil' Gun and shot it over the chrono.
1896 fps. Mild report and recoil and the primer looked good. If it's accurate, this is going to be a fun rifle.

[KLR]

Eight degrees but no wind this morning so I thought I'd shoot a quick group with the 158gr XTP/Lil' Gun. Result: Two out of the four rounds wouldn't fire due to light primer strikes. I put the rounds that didn't fire in my Ruger GP 100 and they went off fine.

I wish I would have tried it first with the original shotgun firing pin.

So - time to pull it apart. Likely I'll end up making a new firing pin and finding a slightly stiffer hammer spring.

Also: I have ordered some 357 Max brass and 158gr & 180gr Hornady XTP bullets.

[KLR]

I think I have it fixed. When tore it down I found a little rubbing on the tapered part of the firing pin where I turned down the nose. So I ground the tapered part back some more, polished the firing pin body, polished the hole in the receiver where the firing pin travels, polished the spring guide and it's mating hole in the hammer.

Put it back together and it still misfired.

So, back apart one more time and I installed a couple of spacers to add about 3/16" of preload to the hammer spring. It added about a pound to the trigger pull, but it fired four out of four rounds now. I think that took care of it.

[Texas by God]

Awesome. Get your accuracy baseline with those excellent XTPs then go boolits. Watching this.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[KLR]

Awesome. Get your accuracy baseline with those excellent XTPs then go boolits. Watching this.


Thanks. That was my thought too. Guess I'll have to get another mold. I have a couple of Lee 158gr molds and a Noe 230gr for my 358 Win. I figure I'll need something in the 180gr range.

The Max brass and bullets are scheduled to arrive Monday. I'll bet it rains all week. :?

[rancher1913]

do you have any photos of the barrel mating process, would love to see more of the detail type images, thanks for the write up its been fun following this.

[KLR]

do you have any photos of the barrel mating process, would love to see more of the detail type images, thanks for the write up its been fun following this.

Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures of the barrel mating process. But there really wasn't much too it.

The only tricky part was turning the barrel down to fit the 12 ga barrel. I hesitate to show this because my machine work is so rough, but I used a bit with a sharp point and a fast feed rate so that I would get a rough finish for the epoxy to hold. Also keep in mind that I was working quickly because it was 10 degrees in my unheated shop. I had to put a heater under my lathe drive to get the oils warm enough for the lathe to run. Anyway, enough excuses - I left the 357 barrel the original diameter for 3.1" from the breech. This fits in the 12 ga chamber. I turned the rest of the barrel about .008" less than the shotgun barrel. BTW, the blue band is layout dye.

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-qz97R5c/1/ebcdbc88/XL/i-qz97R5c-XL.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-qz97R5c/A)

Then I:

1. Degreased both barrels.
2. Applied paste wax to the bore at the muzzle and the chamber of the 357 barrel in case any epoxy got in there.
3. Drove a .360 cast bullet into the muzzle to seal it from epoxy.
4. Squeezed out about 3/4 of each tube of JB Weld into a paper bowl and mixed thoroughly.
5. Used a dowel rod to apply JB weld to inside of shotgun barrel.
6. Smeared some JB on the outside of the 357 barrel.
7. Pushed 357 barrel into place while rotating it to be sure epoxy coated evenly. The JB Weld is so thick that the whole process was smooth and controllable.
8. Put rifle muzzle up and pushed 357 barrel back to make sure it was contacting the breech.
9. Open action and clean up any JB weld. Do this several times to make sure barrel is perfectly contacting breech.
10. Lean it in the corner in a warm room and wait overnight.

[Jedman]

I have had to add some small spacers to slightly compress the coil mainspring on 3 or 4 shotguns that I made to fire CF rifle cartridges. It seems shotgun primers don't need as much of a strike as the smaller pistol or rifle primers to fire.
I don't think I have ever had a problem with shotguns with a hammer, just hammerless designs.

Jedman

[Texas by God]

I'm wanting to do a .41 Magnum using an Uzi .41 AE barrel rechambered and set into a Stevens 16 ga. Model 94 with those "beautiful" Tenite stocks. Maybe next year.....

[KLR]

Glad to know that my problem and solution are normal. My next conversion will be on a Hatfield with a hammer.

While I'm waiting for my brass and bullets, does anyone have favorite loads for the 158gr and 180gr bullets? I'd like to keep it a littler hotter than Magnum but on the lower end for Max loads.

[KLR]

I'm wanting to do a .41 Magnum using an Uzi .41 AE barrel rechambered and set into a Stevens 16 ga. Model 94 with those "beautiful" Tenite stocks. Maybe next year.....

That sounds good. Where are you getting the Uzi barrels?

[Texas by God]

Numrich has them last I looked. I called them to see if they were chrome lined like the 9mm but the lady said they weren't so they'd work.

[KLR]

I received my Max brass and bullets yesterday. The 180gr bullets only had one crimp groove. I was planning on seating them out and crimping on the lower groove. Guess I'll contact Hornady and see what's up.

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-ScNr565/0/2982c1d2/L/i-ScNr565-L.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-ScNr565/A)

[Jedman]

That is odd, they have always had 2 crimp grooves. For most powders you don't really need a crimp for a single shot. My 38 spl. Rifle that I built with the timberwolf barrel and no reamer likes cast being just slightly engraved into the rifling for best accuracy.
The rifles I used the GBO max reamer have shot good with jacketed, plated and cast once you find the right load. GOod Luck ! I live in NW Ohio and know what the weather has been and I would not like to be working on load development right now.

Jedman

[KLR]

Yep, the weather stinks down here. I was able to shoot one over the chrono Sunday before the drizzling, freezing rain started. (158gr XTP, 19gr Lil'Gun - 1938 fps)

Good to know the GBO chamber shoots well with a variety of bullets. I'd rather not crimp. I'll post Hornady's response once I hear from them.

[KLR]

Here's Hornady's response, "This is not a design change. However what happens here is depending on what type of bullet press these are ran on, they may use a transfer tool to put the cannelure on which needs two for alignment and it they use a finish tool for this it can be done with a single cannelure."

I've asked for clarification. I find it hard to believe they don't have a standard design but instead change the number of crimp grooves depending on the machine they choose to run for a batch.

[KLR]

Evidently, Hornady will stick whatever they want in the box. I asked Hornady, " Is your #35771 bullet supposed to have one or two crimp grooves?"

Hornady's response , "It can have either one or two cannelures on the bullet depending on the press tooling they are using. "

Brownells couldn't be bothered to take a close look. The rep said the picture on the box shows a bullet with one crimp groove. :roll:

[KLR]

Latest info is that the bullet was changed in the middle of 2018 "due to new manufacturing process change."

That settled, I shot two over the chrono - 20 gr Lil' Gun and 158 XTP = 1996 fps. 18 gr Lil' Gun and 180 Gr XTP = 1700 fps. Everything looks fine so I'm going to load up a few and see how they shoot. If it ever gets dry and warm enough.

[KLR]

I went out this morning and set up a target at 60 yds.

The 20gr Lil' Gun, 158gr XTP, 1996 fps load put four into 1.2"

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-qJ4Hzvx/0/d9143a49/L/i-qJ4Hzvx-L.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-qJ4Hzvx/A)

The 18gr Lil' Gun, 180gr XTP, 1700 fps load put four into .8"

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-h7592Fd/0/e4bb5dce/L/i-h7592Fd-L.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-h7592Fd/A)

I was really pleased with how it shot the heavier bullets. My goal was to have a 125 yard deer rifle and it should be plenty accurate for that. Time now to find a good cast bullet mold.

[Texas by God]

Looking great. Either of those loads will hunt!

[Jedman]

Looks good ! If you ever shoot deer with the 180 XTP you are at the upper limit of its velocity range at 1700 fps for a close range shot as they will come apart as they are really a pistol bullet.
The 158 XTP FP is good up to 2000 fps. I am sure you know but sometimes just a small change in the powder charge could turn that .8 group into one ragged hole.

If you find a good 200 gr. + or - cast that will shoot 1.5" or better at 100 you will have a lot of confidence using it for deer. I have found all of my 357 max rifles to shoot great with R 7 powder and 200 gr. It's a slower load and I don't think you can get enough in the case to be over pressure but it shoots great.

Jedman

[KLR]

Thanks, guys.

I figured I was pushing the velocity for both bullets. I have a 358 Win. that I loaded up with the 200gr RCBS (NOE clone) bullet at about 1850 fps. I shoot deer on crop damage permits and took a half a dozen deer one summer with that load and had no problems. I sold my mold, but still have some of those bullets. I'll load some of those next. I'm thinking about getting the Lee 2- cavity copy of that bullet and modifying the nose to make it shorter.

I'll have to get some Reloader 7 powder. But serious load development will have to wait for warmer weather. For now I'm satisfied that this project is a success and I'll have a cheap, foldable, accurate rifle.

[richhodg66]

If I may add, my oldest son killed a young doe with a .44 caliber XTP when he was 11 or 12 using a youth muzzle loader. Bullet was in a plastic sabot and used 70 grains of Hogdon Triple Seven.

It was the most destructive gun shot wound I ever saw and ruined a whole shoulder and a lot of the other. Worse, the deer ran probably 50 yards into the woods before falling down, I couldn't believe it, never had one run that far with a cast conical or SWC in muzzle loaders before or since. Pulled quite a few pieces of bullet jacket out of the deer, along with bone fragments etc.

The boy made a very good shot, couldn't have asked for better, I considered it a bullet failure and I'll never use one of those XTPs on a deer again.

[KLR]

17gr Lil' Gun, 216gr 35-200 (NOE clone) gas checked and lubed, 1725 fps, four shots, 60 yds.

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-BswfLVf/0/e8655f20/L/i-BswfLVf-M.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-BswfLVf/A)

[Jedman]

That will do it ! Jedman

[Texas by God]

That's great! IMI apparently makes good barrels, don't they? My H&R/ Uzi 9mm stub shoots cheap fmj into neat little short range groups.
Gotta get that .41 AE barrel!

[KLR]

Yes, they do! I can't believe how easy it was to find a good load. I wish I could find one of the Timberwolf .44 Mag barrels. At $110 I think the Uzi barrel might be a little too much for me for a cheap project, but the prospect of a 41 Mag does interest me. Maybe they will have a sale.

BTW, that $89 Pardus makes a nice smooth, tight rifle with a little deburring and polishing. You guys considering a barrel stub project should consider it.

[KLR]

I've been getting a little primer bulge using mag pistol primers so I tried rifle primers. I started getting misfires again so I added another shim to the hammer spring. Now the trigger pull is a little under 6 lbs. Ugh.

I loaded a few 230 gr NOE bullets. They are powder coated, plain based, and sized to .358.

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-RXdKHjD/0/aafae0b5/M/i-RXdKHjD-M.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-RXdKHjD/A)

I used 16.5 gr of Lil' Gun. I did not run them over the chrono.

I shot three at 100 yards for a 1.4" group.

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-6j9j8mV/0/f509c563/M/i-6j9j8mV-M.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-6j9j8mV/A)

At this point I think I've reached the limit of what this rifle will do. My original plan was to have a 357 Mag rifle and now I'm trying to make it into a 35 Rem.

So, I'm going to back off and see if I can come up with a 180 gr cast bullet at about 1600 fps. I'll also remove a shim from the hammer spring and reduce the trigger pull by a pound.

[Moleman-]

Nice job on the conversion! I've used half a dozen of the timberwolf blanks for 357 and 9mm and have been happy with them. Think I've still got 2-3 9mm that were made with them.

[KLR]

Thanks! The only negative with the design is that small, light hammer. I'm thinking about making a new hammer with a little more mass to it. Or maybe drilling a few holes in the current one and adding some lead.

[cwlongshot]

Looks great!

CW

[KLR]

Thanks, CW.

Tonight I gave my hammer another look and decided to try to gain some mechanical advantage by changing the spring/hammer relationship.

So I put another hole in the hammer above the factory location. The hammer is hard all the way through, so I used a diamond ball and diamond cylinder on my dremel and freehanded it. It's not perfect, but it's functional.

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-vbGFtZz/0/75d0b807/M/i-vbGFtZz-M.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-vbGFtZz/A)

I reinstalled the spring and it was obvious that it was much harder to cock. Trigger pull was nearly 10 lbs. I removed the shims and with just the stock spring it has about a pound more trigger pull than before with all the shims. I put it back together and it fired a CCI400 SR primer fine.

I also polished the sides of the hammer.

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-CCRWZz9/0/5817598e/M/i-CCRWZz9-M.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-CCRWZz9/A)

Here is the before picture:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-KNnzw7G/0/920c01a4/M/i-KNnzw7G-M.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-ddVKkb/i-KNnzw7G/A)

I'm going to shoot it with the rifle primers until it proves itself. I may have to add one shim. Then I'll work on the sear to lighten the trigger pull. I still have a healthy amount of positive engagement so I'll carefully work it towards a more neutral relationship.

[cwlongshot]

Good thinking.

I was gonna ask how much stacking and if room a shim or even a heavier spring. You ideally want to stay with a SR primer in the Maxi.

Fun project the Maxi is a awesome little round. With all the talk of this new Winchester round I pulled out my orig H&R Maxi and loaded up some new shells with a cast 190g LEE boolit. Its rekindled some very fold old memories with this caliber.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Bullets/Casting/Powder%20Coating/94D89907-D860-4ED1-B352-9D1985B3C54A_zpsz5pdxcmb.jpeg

CW

[Texas by God]

I would only add to watch the breech face insert for pressure signs. I'd not push the Max past starting loads with the alloy frame. It's definitely a shooter!

[KLR]

CW - Those bullets look nice. Is that mold currently available?

TBG - Good advice. I've checked the firing pin bushing several times and right after I fired the latest heavy loads. BTW, this shotgun has a steel frame. I rounded the lower edges with a file and it is a tough metal. Still, I'm going to back down from the latest heavy loads.

[cwlongshot]

Its a custom LEE mold from the past. No numbers but “358” on it sorry.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Bullets/Casting/1FC4C2D9-A191-4EAE-8ACE-A1127A87AC07_zps1rccvjug.jpeg

CW